What's the consensus on the most effective paint stripper that won't melt nitrile gloves off my hands?
I do have a septic system so probably won't be putting the stuff down the sink.

Aircraft stripper

Should I be applying that with thicker dishwashing type gloves?

Just not bareskinned obviously.

Bambi.  She comes on at midnight.

Citri-Strip worked well for me, but it will eat nitrile gloves. Use the rubber gloves.

Mercedes at Baby Dolls...
Wait, she would have to be like, close to 60 by now.

I bought some thick rubber gloves and sprayed it with citri-strip.
We'll see what happens.
How long did you let it sit before scrubbing it off?

Probably a day or so. Likely didn't need that much time, but I applied it and then tackled some other projects in the meantime.

I only left it on for about 2 hours after applying a second coat to try to get it on there thicker.
It worked out pretty good.
Ended up outside with a hot bucket of water and a nylon scrub brush and it's pretty clean.

OP, Aervoe is tough stuff. The spray-can camo line is designed as touch up paint for military vehicle restoration.

A gunsmith I follow and find great value in, Mark Novak, said "Amateurs expend time to save resources, professionals expend resources to save time." I'm not calling you an amateur, but it leads into what I've learned with Aervoe and Gillespie paints when I was an amateur beginning refinishing: to do a thorough job that doesn't take you days, you simply must use the nasty chemicals.

Kleenstrip makes a stripper (available at ACE, Lowe's, etc.) that has MEK in it. They make a spray can version, and a metal tub gel version. I recommend the gel simply because the cans often get jammed up and wastes the life of the product. Lay your parts on a flattened cardboard box in the garage, and pour/wipe the gel in a 1/4" thick layer. Allow to soak for about five minutes and you'll begin to see the paint melt/peel away from the part. It will leave a 99% clean finish on the part.

When satisfied, wipe the excess gel off with a shop/paper towel, and discard in a bag or box that won't melt plastic trashcans. Get as much as you can off, and scrub the remainder off with a nylon brush under scolding hot water. Pat dry when finished. Inspect and deal with any residuals spots as needed.

Safety notes: the MEK in the product is essentially satan in a can, and will burn the crap out of you. Wear eye pro, long sleeves, a respirator, and MEK rated gloves (also available at hardware stores inexpensively) when applying and removing. Do NOT get it on your skin, or eyes. It burns for hours after exposure. Is the stuff drain safe? Probably not--that's why I'm religious about getting as much off as I can before I rinse, but you have to be quick as it gets more difficult to remove as it dries. And under hot water, the MEK steam really sucks to breath it, thus the respirator, and ideally in a shop sink so your wife doesn't murder you. Alternatively, you could put some very hot water in a plastic tub/dish to swoosh the part around and scrub in the final stage. Then, leave the tub outside in direct sun to evaporate off, discarding the tub later.

I've done a lot anodized aluminum and steel parts in this manner to remove paint, and it works quickly and clean. Kleenstrip or other MEK products are phenomenal at removing paint. Where Citristrip may be fine for removing Krylon/Rustoleum, MEK I've found is the minimum needed to cleanly remove Aervoe or other tough paints.

Alternative products/methods:

-Soda blasting (will remove paint without damaging anodizing)
-Citristrip (takes longer and sometimes repeated applications, doesn't not entirely remove paint "cleanly")
-Acetone soak/scrub (sucks to breath in, usually leaves white residue, and on anodizing or parkerizing doesn't get into the pores of the substrate, leaving a "previously rattle canned" look)

Good luck

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