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Posted: 4/24/2024 9:59:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M-60: https://photos.smugmug.com/Shooting/Shotgun-stuff/Misc-shotgun/i-33P7SPF/0/FVq2wbjp6ZKP3F7bgQmMwz6hSZ3CHz7pwcCbR92xp/XL/IMG_6394-XL.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Shooting/Shotgun-stuff/Misc-shotgun/i-mBxTSbr/0/CQRgmrfGpBrx9GnVcqRCjCJLPFP7KH3SfTfKdvRTK/XL/IMG_6396-XL.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Shooting/Shotgun-stuff/Misc-shotgun/i-c5vNSqX/0/FVwvxh9BsntT6FNk467sJjLn6pL2Wwkgk4vW92Mn3/XL/IMG_6397-XL.jpg Great pictures! Thanks! I am still thinking about ordering in some extra shot drop tubes. Comparing their lengths to the tube that is installed now, and then cutting one of them down a little at a time until : 1. The wad is sitting at the correct height AND 2. The shot bar travels the full stroke |
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Posted: 4/24/2024 10:08:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#2]
If I was on the ball the other night while the machine was still dialed in for 9/8ths loads and those WT12 wads, I should have used the inside jaws on my dial calipers:
 Attached FileTo get the measurement here:  Attached FileAnd written it down or taken a pic of the dial caliper’s display. EDIT: there is one other thing I need to try….adjusting the shot bar’s “gate valve bolt” and the set screw. As it is now, the set screw is levering the “gate” up into the white rubber “snubber”. I have to wonder if that is causing enough drag on the shot bar to keep it from going its full stroke. I am ending up with a white powdery residue on top of the shot bar and inside the wad. |
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Posted: 4/24/2024 10:56:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mannyCA]
[#3]
great thread!
We did a whole series on powder, wads, hull life and how to calculate your recipe.  Hey, How Many Times Can You Load That Hull? - Black Powder Shotshells playlist with the whole series Shotshell Loading Playlist lots of real world data, 12, 20 and 410 included. check it out. 
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Posted: 4/25/2024 8:34:07 AM EDT
[#4]
@mannyCA Definitely have liked your how many times vids for hulls.
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Posted: 4/25/2024 9:30:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mannyCA: great thread! We did a whole series on powder, wads, hull life and how to calculate your recipe.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mED3f-GBdTsplaylist with the whole series Shotshell Loading Playlist lots of real world data, 12, 20 and 410 included. check it out. Cheers for that! |
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Posted: 4/25/2024 10:54:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AeroE]
[#6]
The Downrange wads I loaded were longer than Clay busters and interfered with the mechanism on my Grand loader.
BPI sells cards for filling out a cup (install under the shot), and I made a bunch that I cut out of thick foamish craft paper for some obsolete 20 gauge wads. I made a punch from a piece of 1/2 inch 4130 tubing. |
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Posted: 4/25/2024 3:29:03 PM EDT
[#7]
Ultimate Reloader just put out a new video and it just so happens to be on the Dillon SL900:
 Shotshell Reloading with the Dillon SL900 - Hands On! |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 2:05:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#8]
EUREKA!
I figured it out. Finally.  It was the shot bar bolt and its set screw. If you look really closely in this pic, you’ll see that the “gate” is levered up slightly above flush of the shot bar:  Attached FileThen in this next pic, you can see that it was scraping across the white rubber “snubber” that it was leaving a powdery residue on the shot bar.  Attached FileSince it was dragging so hard across the “snubber”, the shot bar wasn’t able to go the full stroke: So I went to the hardware store, and bought a new bolt:  Attached FileNew bolt on top. The original Dillon bolt is on bottom. That groove and the set screw’s pressure from above was levering it up. This is what the shot bars look like:  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 2:31:19 AM EDT
[#9]
Wow. I've never had that issue. Now, I'll have to look.
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Posted: 4/27/2024 3:40:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M-60: Wow. I've never had that issue. Now, I'll have to look. When I was putting it all back together, one of the things I did was leave the black set screw loose when I inserted the shot bar into the dispenser. Once I was sure the “gate” was under the rubber “snubber”, then I tightened down the set screw. I also sprinkled some graphite powder on top of the shot bar and worked it back and forth a few times by hand before re-connecting the bell crank arm and white plastic “bushing” or “cube”. For those following along who are wondering what this rubber “snubber is….  Attached FileThat’s ^^^ a Mec shot bar. That white dog bone shaped looking thing is made out of rubber. Without it, the shot bar would try to shear the extra lead pellets in half. On the Dillon SL900, the rubber “snubber” is inside the shot dispense right above where the shot bar travels. A rubber “snubber” allows the miscellaneous extra shot to roll under or over without getting smeared or sheared in half while the shot bar shuttles back and forth. EDIT: I did switch over to the gold colored Remington Nitro 27 hulls. My crimps were looking way better with those versus the gray Winchester AAHS’s. Besides, I am thinking of saving the grays for buckshot loads. |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 3:57:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#11]
This is a screenshot from an old Power Factor Show. Steve is holding up the Dillon version of the rubber “snubber”:
 Attached FileIt turns black after a while because of the lead shot and/or the graphite coating the shot. Fast forward to the 10 minute and 40 second mark:  Episode 267 - Shooting Chandelle Targets & Tweaking the SL900 Shot Bar EDIT: the new bolts that I bought are 1/4X28tpi by 2 inches long. The hardware store only had stainless, but it turns out that the new bolt and set screw both use the same size allen wrench. What Dillon really should do is have the black set screw come in horizontally from the left side of the shot bar as you are facing the press. They should also use a fully threaded shaft bolt….put some sort of “garter” or set screw in the “gate” to let the bolt spin freely ….and then thread the back end of the bar. Whatever that distance is from the back of the bar to the head of the bolt, that is how far open the “gate” is. |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 6:59:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#12]
I finally made it to the range today.
I made 25 of the 3/4 ouncers, and in the process dialed in the crimp with the Dillon. Here is a pic….the worst crimps are in the front row….they get better towards the back:  Attached FileI made it a point to shoot the crappy looking ones first on the trap field. Ya…know…those 3/4 ouncers broke those trap birds just as well as the 9/8 ouncers. I only shot about half of the 3/4’s, then I switched over to the 20 gauge. I am going to see how the other half does over a week or so….to see if they open like the ones in the front row. EDIT: and yes, they are noticeably softer on the shoulder. |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 7:53:58 PM EDT
[#13]
Is it fairly easy to cut down empty hulls to make mini-shells?
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Posted: 5/1/2024 8:15:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: johnh57]
[#14]
I think you want a little more depth on the crimp so they don't poof out over time. I try for a crimp depth about equal to the thickness of a dime.
These are 7/8 oz, 1350 fps bunker loads. These hulls are old and have been reloaded many, many times.  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 9:52:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By johnh57: I think you want a little more depth on the crimp so they don't poof out over time. I try for a crimp depth about equal to the thickness of a dime. These are 7/8 oz, 1350 fps bunker loads. These hulls are old and have been reloaded many, many times. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/335829/Resizer_17146092838301_jpg-3203260.JPG Jesus dude! Nice press!  Yeah, about a third of the way through those 25 today, I figured out that I was adjusting the final crimp die wrong. In a way, it kinda reminds me of the 3 die sets that RCBS sells for metallic pistol reloading. The RCBS bullet seating die (for pistol) can also be used to put s taper crimp onto the case mouth. Wellllll….with the final crimp die/station on the SL900, I was giving it too much taper and not enough “nose seating”. So there were a few hulls that I buckled the sides on. EDIT: so I threw those in my “to be torn apart later pile. I unscrewed the final crimp die a lot, and gradually started dialing the center “seating stem” down. There was a recent thread on trapshooters.com about Hodgdon’s data on how crimp depth affects chamber pressure and velocity:  Attached FileSo over at TS.com somebody posted a pic of two hulls. One with a dime sitting on top. Dimes are too big in diameter to actually fit down in the crimp. The other hull had a washer down inside the crimp. |
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Posted: 5/2/2024 3:42:20 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: I finally made it to the range today. I made 25 of the 3/4 ouncers, and in the process dialed in the crimp with the Dillon. Here is a pic….the worst crimps are in the front row….they get better towards the back: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/963B4290-2F97-4538-8634-1545607F1093_jpe-3203163.JPG I made it a point to shoot the crappy looking ones first on the trap field. Ya…know…those 3/4 ouncers broke those trap birds just as well as the 9/8 ouncers. I only shot about half of the 3/4’s, then I switched over to the 20 gauge. I am going to see how the other half does over a week or so….to see if they open like the ones in the front row. EDIT: and yes, they are noticeably softer on the shoulder. I thought you'd like 'em. I don't shoot trap, but on the Skeet field, they're fantastic. I've done 200 rounds in a afternoon shooting those and there's no recoil fatigue at all. |
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Posted: 5/2/2024 9:19:14 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Is it fairly easy to cut down empty hulls to make mini-shells? I don’t know. I never tried. If guys are making their own mini-shells, I don’t know how they are crimping them. Because most presses are set up for 2.75” shells. I can’t speak for all presses, but at least with the Dillon SL900 and its tip out wad guide:  Attached FileThe wad starter is at a fixed or set distance for 2.75” long shells. Plus, I would need to see legitimate published and tested load recipes from some place reputable. |
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Posted: 5/2/2024 3:44:12 PM EDT
[#18]
Well…. This is aggravating:
 Attached FileThose two are standing higher than the rest because:  Attached FileThe other crimps look better:  Attached FileNot good. Not perfect. Just a little better. I have been doing a lot of reading on trapshooters.com about the SL900 and crimps. Dillon makes a pre-crimp “die” that is smooth on the inside. It was originally meant for the very old skool paper hulls. And supposedly everybody who got a “paper crimp die” ended up with better crimps in their plastic hulls. Supposedly… |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:08:07 PM EDT
[#19]
There were a few shells that got goofed up in the pre-crimp die last night:
 Attached FileThat’s the pre-hemorhoid stage ^^^. I was able to catch about 3 of them before they really got hemorhoid'ed in the final crimp die. The three that I did catch I was able to unfold the “petals” and run it back up into the pre-crimp. Then they came out looking like normal. The one pictured above….I tried to unfold it to save it 2 times, but the plastic just had too much memory to it. I ended up dumping out the shot…back into the shot bucket. Then I used needle nose pliers to pull the wad. The powder got dumped back into the Dillon powder measure. That hull got tossed into the trash can. I’ll be installing that smooth pre-crimp die insert later today. |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 2:50:15 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: There were a few shells that got goofed up in the pre-crimp die last night: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/1FA515D7-CBE6-4564-B658-66A26B22B9A3_jpe-3207906.JPG That’s the pre-hemorhoid stage ^^^. I was able to catch about 3 of them before they really got hemorhoid'ed in the final crimp die. The three that I did catch I was able to unfold the “petals” and run it back up into the pre-crimp. Then they came out looking like normal. The one pictured above….I tried to unfold it to save it 2 times, but the plastic just had too much memory to it. I ended up dumping out the shot…back into the shot bucket. Then I used needle nose pliers to pull the wad. The powder got dumped back into the Dillon powder measure. That hull got tossed into the trash can. I’ll be installing that smooth pre-crimp die insert later today. I just let 'em mash and shoot 'em. Toss it the next time around. They aint pretty, but they go bang and break clays. |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 4:32:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Combat_Diver]
[#21]
I had a used MEC 600 that I had for over 30 yrs before setting up. Mainly use it for 12 ga buckshot loads with .311 and .375" round balls. Not worth the shot for 1 1/8 as Dove loads were cheap enough in the past. A decade ago I parked a RV on the Ft Bragg skeet range for several weeks while training there. Picked up more hulls than I'll ever use. Got a 55 gal trash can full of Federal Top Gun once fired. I reload them twice then chuck them. Clay boxes full of AA and Rem STS hulls too. Just bought a 25lb bag of #5 for field loads for my 870. Thats where I'll save more money. Need to reload later for .410 and 16 ga.
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Posted: 5/8/2024 8:13:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: M-60]
[#22]
Just for fun, I put a new AA hull in my '900 that's currently set up for Rem STS, Gun Club, Nitro's.
Results?   Basically identical to the Rem hulls. 1oz #9's over 7/8 Claybuster wad, 18 Grains of Tite Group. |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 4:27:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Combat_Diver]
[#23]
Stated earlier mainly for buckshot loads. Lee .311" round balls
 Attached File.375" round ball, both of my molds were for cap and ball revolvers.  Attached FileMixing RBs, 1 oz is 1 oz. Powder is usually Unique.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 7:52:45 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By M-60: Just for fun, I put a new AA hull in my '900 that's currently set up for Rem STS, Gun Club, Nitro's. Results? https://photos.smugmug.com/Shooting/Shotgun-stuff/Misc-shotgun/i-Z59Gcdz/0/DCMsv9RR9B6wcwVxMFtvWCpzm2tRMH92wc2HSJ4jr/XL/IMG_6467-XL.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/Shooting/Shotgun-stuff/Misc-shotgun/i-bT4K9BF/0/D9MbCt2ZQSDFbm4xDztGwcsKjRZft2hMG6Zj5mwkt/XL/IMG_6466-XL.jpg Basically identical to the Rem hulls. 1oz #9's over 7/8 Claybuster wad, 18 Grains of Tite Group. Somebody on another forum messaged me to say they were having really good luck with those Diamond hulls:  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 7:56:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Combat_Diver: Stated earlier mainly for buckshot loads. Lee .311" round balls https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32677/_311_round_ball_jpg-3208920.JPG .375" round ball, both of my molds were for cap and ball revolvers. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32677/_375_round_ball_jpg-3208921.JPG Mixing RBs, 1 oz is 1 oz. Powder is usually Unique. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32677/12_ga_0_and_0000_buck_JPG-3208922.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32677/12_ga_0000_tgt_JPG-3208925.JPG You’re a good salesman! I just bought a Lee .310 diameter ball 6 cavity mold and handles from a place called Track of the Wolf.  |
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Posted: 5/11/2024 2:52:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#26]
WOOT WOOT!
I got my buckshot mold and handles today;  Attached File!EDIT: going back a year or two, another forum member recommended this mould to me because I won’t have to worry about cutting multiple pellets apart from each other with either wire cutters or dog toe nail clippers. Plus, the .310” size fits just right inside a Winchester AAHS hull/wad….3 by 3 by 3 stack. |
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Posted: 5/11/2024 3:55:44 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: WOOT WOOT! I got my buckshot mold and handles today; https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/2419B8A1-57AE-4BDA-954B-71DABE416669_jpe-3211720.JPG !EDIT: going back a year or two, another forum member recommended this mould to me because I won’t have to worry about cutting multiple pellets apart from each other with either wire cutters or dog toe nail clippers. Plus, the .310” size fits just right inside a Winchester AAHS hull/wad….3 by 3 by 3 stack. Are you going to tumble or powder coat? I water harden mine and put them in the tumbler with .454 round balls. For me, it seems like I get better results with different diameters. Adding buffer helps for my non coated, just make sure about load data. |
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Posted: 5/11/2024 9:12:13 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Chukar: Are you going to tumble or powder coat? I water harden mine and put them in the tumbler with .454 round balls. For me, it seems like I get better results with different diameters. Adding buffer helps for my non coated, just make sure about load data. I was thinking about just adding graphite powder to the tumbler to coat those .310” pellets. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 2:48:05 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: WOOT WOOT! I got my buckshot mold and handles today; https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/2419B8A1-57AE-4BDA-954B-71DABE416669_jpe-3211720.JPG !EDIT: going back a year or two, another forum member recommended this mould to me because I won’t have to worry about cutting multiple pellets apart from each other with either wire cutters or dog toe nail clippers. Plus, the .310” size fits just right inside a Winchester AAHS hull/wad….3 by 3 by 3 stack. Nice! Beats my two cav mold |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 7:11:03 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: EDIT: going back a year or two, another forum member recommended this mould to me because I won’t have to worry about cutting multiple pellets apart from each other with either wire cutters or dog toe nail clippers. Plus, the .310” size fits just right inside a Winchester AAHS hull/wad….3 by 3 by 3 stack. Works even better with 2 molds in rotation.
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Posted: Yesterday 2:13:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chumly2071: Works even better with 2 molds in rotation. I fired up my casting pot tonight:  Attached FileI had pushed my casting bench way off in the corner of the cellar. It had probably been about 12 to 14 years since I last turned the pot on. There were sheet metal ducts riight in the way, so I was all stooped over while trying to cast. Just a few minutes yielded this:  Attached FilePutting 9 pellets on the scale got me this:  Attached File |
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Posted: Yesterday 3:14:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WeimaranerDad]
[#32]
Last night, I took out the 8 point pre-crimp insert:
 Attached FileAnd replaced it with the smooth insert meant for paper hulls:  Attached FileFrom the side it looks like this:  Attached FileVOILA! No more hemorrhoid’ed crimps. EDIT: it is Dillon part #16748 |
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Posted: Today 2:49:33 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: Last night, I took out the 8 point pre-crimp insert: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/ED48C761-F055-4976-8D1B-8F040868C75E_jpe-3213477.JPG And replaced it with the smooth insert meant for paper hulls: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/BF8441A4-9346-428E-B07C-CBD582D687BF_jpe-3213479.JPG From the side it looks like this: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/9817960D-048B-459B-A38C-2BC201AE368B_jpe-3213483.JPG VOILA! No more hemorrhoid’ed crimps. EDIT: it is Dillon part #16748 Hmmm. I might have to try that. |
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Posted: Today 11:05:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AeroE]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WeimaranerDad: There were a few shells that got goofed up in the pre-crimp die last night: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/369122/1FA515D7-CBE6-4564-B658-66A26B22B9A3_jpe-3207906.JPG That's the pre-hemorhoid stage ^^^. I was able to catch about 3 of them before they really got hemorhoid'ed in the final crimp die. The three that I did catch I was able to unfold the "petals" and run it back up into the pre-crimp. Then they came out looking like normal. The one pictured above .I tried to unfold it to save it 2 times, but the plastic just had too much memory to it. I ended up dumping out the shot back into the shot bucket. Then I used needle nose pliers to pull the wad. The powder got dumped back into the Dillon powder measure. That hull got tossed into the trash can. I'll be installing that smooth pre-crimp die insert later today. I have not tried to rescue a crimp that mangled in a 12 gauge hull, they're too cheap and plentiful to fool with. |
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