Suggestions and experience with this topic.

Pure sine wave power seems to stand out in my mind to power a A/C home compressor. My opinion is stay away from square wave gear to run compressors.

Thoughts and experience?

So much stuff coming from China that is super cheap but is it reliable?

You want to run your home HVAC with a 12V inverter?

Not sure such a thing exists that could handle 1000+ amps at 12VDC.

If you have 100% efficiency and unity power factor, the ratio of 12V current to 220 VAC current will be 220/12=18.3.  For most loads that would require 220 VAC, that's going to be a lot of amps out of your battery.  As they say, 220, 240, whatever it takes.

ETA: Look at Ecoflow for a ready-made solution.  It will be expensive if you want any run time.

Yes.

Working on a home solar array.

I can power everything in the home with 110 converted but 220 VAC is a path less traveled.

I need comments from folks who have done that.

Does everything in your home pull anything like the same current as your HVAC ? Nope.

Very few people run non-inverter compressors from solar setups.

The people who have done it didn't do it with 12v.

I would really suggest reading other forums about this - GD simply isn't the place to get this kind of info.

Sensata is what we have been using for some off site inverters. They power a split system for keeping an area cool and only run as needed.

You are correct.

I bought a 12v backpack AC from alibaba. Its rad. You can get them on Amazon too. Uses 500w 12v or there are 24v versions.

also if you want a window unit, looks at the Midea U. 110v 900w

If you want to run 220v. Then look at a Sol-Ark inverter. You will need lots of solar and maybe a battery bank. Its wise to go to higher DC voltages like 48v if you are going this route. At 12v you wont be able to get more than 3000w due to cable sizes and inverter limitations.

Why 12?
Plenty of 220vac inverters will do what you want.  But at 24vdc or 48vdc.  So parallel your batts for 48v

This 6k inverter could run a 3ton inverter ac unit, 2 ton traditional ac unit, but its 48 volt DC on the battery size. And at 1500 bucks its not bad, but you would spend another 3-5k on batteries to be able to run it for any amount of time.

Yep, 48v would likely be best

I have the capability to step up the battery bank to do just that.

I have given thought to a higher VDC input and bigger inverter capability as well.

12 VDC ran everything but I fear it won`t be enough even with the AGM battery supply I have available to me.

Somewhere I read that higher voltage on the input side is what one needs to attain a higher dependable output from the inverter.

More in,  more out.

The 12 VDC is all I  need for home lighting and power requirements.

Running the A/C is another challenge.

I know that I can do this. Many have beaten that obstacle.

Not sure what part of the world you live in, or what your grid power is like there.
We use 60 Hertz, 120/240 volt split phase here in USA. My grid power is unreliable, mostly due to falling trees, and poor Utility line maintenance.
I have 8,000 watts of Solar  pushing power on to the grid, and 4000 watts Solar power charging a 24 volt Flooded Lead Acid battery bank.
 2 Volt cells, 1200 Amp-Hours, twelve in series. The batteries run a series stacked pair of Outback Power inverters, with  a 4KVA balancing Autotransformer  across the output.  This provides  continuous 5 kilowatts 120/240 volt and can provide surge power  of 10,000 watts for 5 minutes.
  The OutBack power inverters  have been in service continually since 2003, and have not missed a cycle. Usually one sleeps until the deep well pump kicks on, or convection oven, etc.
IF you want a single unit to make 240 volt AC, I think your choices are Magnum Power or VICTRON. both work well, but I've never heard of either running for a decade without failure or service. Running  anything big, like well pumps, compressors, refrigeration, welders or amplifiers is VERY DIFFICULT with 12 volt batteries. the copper wire and massive parallel battery banks are expensive, inefficient, and hard to BALANCE.
I strongly recommend a 48 volt or 24 volt battery system if you plan to run refrigeration, washing machines or a well pump..  12 volt stuff will not "get you there"

LOL  Actually,  it was  "220, 221, whatever it takes,"   and THAT  led to a  running joke  with the back then  bunch  on 75M  amateur band,  concerning   the Heathkit  SB-220,  SB-221,  as in  "what are you running,   SB-220?"

I would just round it up to  x10  for  "roughly" comparing  a  12 to 120V  conversion,  or x20  for 12V to 220

Not a chance in hell is THAT scenario very  sustainable,  unless you have a   WWII  submarine   in your backyard museum,  and of course it won't be 12V, either.

The whole problem with 12V  is that I squared R  losses  get out of control fast.   Hell this starts at very low power,  such as  audio or RF  amplifiers, and is why  many   operate  at  ABOVE 12V.