Went on the tubes of You......and now I'm contemplating converting my old printer into a Voron Trident as a fun project to do with my kid after we get him up and running on an Ender 3 Pro kit I've had in my garage for a while.

Of course part of me says just buy a commercial printer....but I got into 3D printing with kit printers so I'm partial to them. That being said an X1C with AMS likely will be a business expense later this year.....then again so can this Voron....

I have a v0.2 and v2.4r2.  

Anything in particular you want to know?

Are they pretty consistent in terms of print reliability and quality?  

Are the speeds really what ppl claim? Or is it more of it CAN go that fast but quality suffers?

Do you recommend building the vanilla version and then doing the upgrades or just full send it on building it the way you want from the start?  

ABS parts hold up ok on them if you're printing nylon in a heated chamber mostly?

Have you done any prints that use the full extent of the build volume?  Any issues at the extremes?

I have a hypercube that I started but never finished.  On the fence about finishing it after learning more about the Vorons

answers in red in the quote block.

At the end of the day, Vorons are DIY printers for people who like to tinker.  They will not have it if the box quality like Prusa or Bambu printers, but if you take your time building, configuring, and tuning, they give fantastic results.

Got 3 vorons (trident,2.4,edner 3 converted to switchwire).

All 3 are very good printers but they most definitely are a tinkerers printer.  Its very easy to want to add a mod and then end up rebuilding the printer for whatever reason.  As it stands my 2.4 and switchwire are currently being put back together again (tap mod install on the 2.4 and the switchwire is getting its extruder upgraded).  The trident is getting recalibrated since I changed it to tap and canbus and upgraded a few parts.  

Another thing is that the vorons will "work" even if you arent great about making sure everything is square but will lead to inconsistencies which will require you to rebuild unless you can live with them.

I will say though that building one lets you learn how 3d printers work and how to effectively troubleshoot issues and what the solutions will be.  However if you just want to print and dont want to worry about mods or tinkering just get a Prusa or Bambu and make your life simpler.

I have one that has never worked.

The joke goes you don’t build a Voron. You build your Voron.
I love my little V0 but sometimes it falls in the more hobby than printer category. Not that they are unreliable. It’s like building an AR. Once you build it’s hard to stop.

What's your thoughts on the switchwire. Didn't even know that was a model option.  Would be a smarter path to go more than likely since we're starting with an Ender 3.

I know a decent bit about how 3D printers work in general. I've been away from the hobby for a while but I've built all the printers I own.  So tearing them down to tweak or diagnose issues isn't a problem.  Way back in the day I sank a ton of money and time into chasing accuracy/consistency/reliability with my OG Tevo Tarantula.  I think the only original stuff left on that printer now are the aluminum extrusions and some, not all, of the wires.  That little printer self replicated into 3 more printers (which I got rid of when we moved) and a partial hypercube I have in pieces.  Part of me is thinking about resurrecting/cannibalizing it, because why not since I have the parts on hand.  We're talking about doing an at home business with 3D printing as part of our homeschool curriculum to teach our kids about entrepreneurship.  Still likely going to buy a factory printer, likely a Bambu and business expense it, for the reliability/speed factor.  But I want to try to give my kids a more well rounded understanding of engineering, programming, and maintenance.

I built a Trident last year.

How'd it turn out @Sabre19, pretty happy with it?

Turns out I can use the office printer at our satellite office to have them run off on a Stratasys with the printable supports and everything.  So I'm probably gonna take them up on the offer and send the files to them to have run off and washed.

My entry into the 3D printing world was with a Prusa Mini, then I built the Trident. I haven't printed with the Mini since, if that tells you anything. I am *mostly* happy with the Trident, but as others have already mentioned, there will be a lot of "sweat equity" involved in getting a Voron to print like a Prusa or I guess a Bambu Labs right out of the box. Every little thing you take for granted with a Prusa (feel free to substitute any other "easy button" printer) you have to earn with the Voron. I miss being able to just unload one type of filament and load another type, for instance. On the Voron, it's a manual-ish process by default, but you can MAKE it automatic if you put in the effort (I haven't worked up the mental energy yet) to write the macro.

At the end of the day, I built the Voron because I like to customize things to my specific needs and no Bambu Labs or Prusa printer is going to allow me to do that. I want to do things like add a BME680 to my enclosure and have the VOC levels determine the fan speed on my Nevermore and the enclosure temperature be regulated somewhat by the exhaust fan speed, for example. That's the beauty (and the curse) of Klipper. Do I enjoy the Trident? Yes. Do I regret going that route vs. getting, say, a Prusa Mk4 (I was on the verge of doing so when I ultimately decided to build the Trident instead)? Not usually, no, but there are times I wish I had the easy button back.

Hope that answers your question.

Honestly I dont really recommend upgrading an ender 3 to switchwire (which people on the Voron discord refer to as an enderwire).  You know its going to be a project when people on that discord refer to people that do the enderwire conversion as crazy.  Main issues with it is that there are no instructions, you can follow the switchwire instructions but none of the parts match so you end up using it as a guide.  You will also need fusion360 to view the cad files and refer to them to see how parts go together.  Also some of the screws/bolts are incorrect in the cad so you have to mix an match.  Mind you none of this applies if you go with the actual switchwire BOM; if you use that the parts do match and the instructions work.  I will say though that I did learn a lot doing an Enderwire build but I wouldnt say its worth it unless you like building printers/enjoy the engineering side of it.