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Posted: 4/22/2024 2:33:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: fadedsun]
I'm replacing the tie rod ends on a european truck and they are a little crusty.
These are not removable BUT I believe you can press them out and they are rebuildable. Am I correct? I don't see a snap ring retainer so I'm not sure. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File The threaded removable tie rod end came off with some love from a 48" pipe wrench. It was on there tight. |
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
[#1]
That looks like it could be pressed out with a ball joint tool. It has the collar where a tool would fit.
Attached File Attached File |
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I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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[#2]
Originally Posted By HillaryClinton: That looks like it could be pressed out with a ball joint tool. It has the collar where a tool would fit. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435954/56807_W3_jpg-3194908.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435954/63610_W3_jpg-3194909.JPG View Quote I have a 20 ton shop press. That's my thought exactly. |
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
[#3]
See if you can find the replacement parts. That'll tell you what you need to do.
I've never had to press in/out a tie rod end in my lifetime. |
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[#4]
Originally Posted By number40Fan: See if you can find the replacement parts. That'll tell you what you need to do. I've never had to press in/out a tie rod end in my lifetime. View Quote I can find the one side easily. Going to take it to Napa when they open up in a few hours. The other side is one with the entire bar. |
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
[#5]
Nope, you replace it as a unit, the long side, the short side and the coupler unless you want to remove the old one...
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[#6]
Pretty sure the only service you can do on that tie rod end is injecting grease. Any kind of play in the internal ball would be metal on metal wear that would need replacement of the whole end assembly. Just my .02
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[#7]
Originally Posted By Sparsky: Pretty sure the only service you can do on that tie rod end is injecting grease. Any kind of play in the internal ball would be metal on metal wear that would need replacement of the whole end assembly. Just my .02 View Quote Most likely true. Though if the factory can assemble it, it can also be disassembled. Might not go back together again though, or require expensive specialty tools. |
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Podometric Representative of the Medical Cartel.
PA, USA
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[#8]
rockauto? fcpeuro? Autohausaz?
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“We live in a society of excuses, pleading for second chances, and unwillingness to take responsibility for our actions,”
scuba_steve:"LOL. This fucking place. I've been here too long. I am no longer capable of original thought." |
[#9]
Is this a daily driven street vehicle or something you use around the homestead?
When I am working on tractors and stuff and I can't find a replacement tie rod end I take the tie rod end and degrease it inside and out really good in the parts washer. Then I put it in my press and crimp the outside down so that it takes up all the slop between the ball and the socket. then I just squirt some grease in it and put it back on. this works pretty good for tractors and stuff but I don't know if I would trust it on a street vehicle at road speeds. |
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[#10]
Do you have a dirt floor, a clapped out lathe, a shitty stick welder, a blow torch, and a bare foot indian using a mountain dew bottle for a welding helmet?
If so you might be able to wing it. |
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[#11]
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Nope, you replace it as a unit, the long side, the short side and the coupler unless you want to remove the old one... View Quote A lot of vehicles are built that way. One that really pissed me off is the pitman arm on GM trucks where the joint is in the pitman arm instead of on the rod, so the pitman arm has to be changed when the joint wears out. And it's a PITA to get the pitman arm off the steering box due to tight confines. IIRC, on a lot of Ford trucks, the whole center link has to be replaced if one end wears out. |
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[#12]
Originally Posted By diesel1: A lot of vehicles are built that way. One that really pissed me off is the pitman arm on GM trucks where the joint is in the pitman arm instead of on the rod, so the pitman arm has to be changed when the joint wears out. And it's a PITA to get the pitman arm off the steering box due to tight confines. IIRC, on a lot of Ford trucks, the whole center link has to be replaced if one end wears out. View Quote |
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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[#13]
I wrenched for a long time and I never encountered a tie rod that was rebuildable. Interested to see how yours goes.
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In the beginning the Universe was created. This has made a lot of people very angry and been widely regarded as a bad move.
-D.A. "I’ve been known to kiss a girl now and then..." -PlaneJane |
[#14]
There are rebuildable rod ends but they are $$$ and for lifted trucks or those used in extreme conditions. For the average Joe, buying new rod ends is the way to go.
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[Last Edit: warlord]
[#15]
fadedsun: I think the others that recommend replace the whole rod are on the right track, and also like someone mentioned, I am not sure, but better double check to be sure that replacement part is available if you press it out. You are lucky that end has a zerk grease fitting, most US tie rods don't have it. If you kept it lube with a high quality lube, I think those tie-rod ends will last a long, long time.
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[Last Edit: fadedsun]
[#16]
Originally Posted By warlord: fadedsun: I think the others that recommend replace the whole rod are on the right track, and also like someone mentioned, I am not sure, but better double check to be sure that replacement part is available if you press it out. You are lucky that end has a zerk grease fitting, most US tie rods don't have it. If you kept it lube with a high quality lube, I think those tie-rod ends will last a long, long time. View Quote This vehicle was ridden hard and put away wet. Attached File Attached File I have a lot of work to do in regards to making it 100% The right side tie Rod is apart of the bar and not removable. Attached File Attached File @warlord |
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
[#17]
No its NOT rebuildable. Nor is it safe to try.
You replace the whole thing |
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[#18]
OP, I've built my own tierods and draglinks for years for our race and off road stuff, you can cut the end off the long bar and replace it with a short one with the correct taper size, but its not for someone who thinks he can weld, you have to be a great welder/fabricator to do it safely...So this is one way to solve your issue if you can find a top welder/fabricator willing to do it, or you purchase the whole setup and replace it...or you can remove it and install hydraulic steering but its not street legal except for placarded slow moving vehicles..They sell kits that range from a couple grand to 10 grand depending on what you need...(think monster truck suppliers)
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[#19]
Originally Posted By Abearir: No its NOT rebuildable. Nor is it safe to try. You replace the whole thing View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Abearir: No its NOT rebuildable. Nor is it safe to try. You replace the whole thing Replacements for the bar are unavailable, unfortunately. Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: OP, I've built my own tierods and draglinks for years for our race and off road stuff, you can cut the end off the long bar and replace it with a short one with the correct taper size, but its not for someone who thinks he can weld, you have to be a great welder/fabricator to do it safely...So this is one way to solve your issue if you can find a top welder/fabricator willing to do it, or you purchase the whole setup and replace it...or you can remove it and install hydraulic steering but its not street legal except for placarded slow moving vehicles..They sell kits that range from a couple grand to 10 grand depending on what you need...(think monster truck suppliers) I'm a piss poor welder. This is going on a 5 ton truck so it needs to be well built. Thank you for your help and advice. I may take it to an offroad shop and see what they can do. |
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
[#20]
Originally Posted By diesel1: A lot of vehicles are built that way. One that really pissed me off is the pitman arm on GM trucks where the joint is in the pitman arm instead of on the rod, so the pitman arm has to be changed when the joint wears out. And it's a PITA to get the pitman arm off the steering box due to tight confines. IIRC, on a lot of Ford trucks, the whole center link has to be replaced if one end wears out. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By diesel1: Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Nope, you replace it as a unit, the long side, the short side and the coupler unless you want to remove the old one... A lot of vehicles are built that way. One that really pissed me off is the pitman arm on GM trucks where the joint is in the pitman arm instead of on the rod, so the pitman arm has to be changed when the joint wears out. And it's a PITA to get the pitman arm off the steering box due to tight confines. IIRC, on a lot of Ford trucks, the whole center link has to be replaced if one end wears out. My Dakota is like that, pitman arm with the joint built in. And my Ram also has the joints built into one end of the drag link and crossover. |
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"You can't tourniquet a taint, folks." - Andrew Branca
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[#21]
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
[#22]
Maybe obvious, but are there any YouTube videos on the model vehicle you are working on?
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[#23]
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
[#24]
Originally Posted By fadedsun: That's how the vehicle I'm posting about is. It's very annoying given that it's basically 1970s tech. View Quote Thats standard fare for most anything up until just recently mainly since rack and pinion really took hold....You have a tie rod which goes knuckle to knuckle and keeps the tires aligned with each other and then you have a dragline that goes from knuckle to steering box.... If you find somebody to weld a new end on, you must keep the new end from getting too hot, otherwise you can melt the plastic socket that holds the center pin tight...You will also want to sleeve the repair with some thick wall tubing that fits tight to the draglink.....It isn't complicated but it must be done by someone who can weld and fabricate above the average..it has to be done right or peoples lives are at risk... |
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[#25]
Find a similar size tie rod end for another truck that screws onto the inner tie rod shaft, like most modern setups.
Cut the bar you've got, thread it, and then thread on the replacement tie rod end from another truck. |
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[#26]
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Thats standard fare for most anything up until just recently mainly since rack and pinion really took hold....You have a tie rod which goes knuckle to knuckle and keeps the tires aligned with each other and then you have a dragline that goes from knuckle to steering box.... If you find somebody to weld a new end on, you must keep the new end from getting too hot, otherwise you can melt the plastic socket that holds the center pin tight...You will also want to sleeve the repair with some thick wall tubing that fits tight to the draglink.....It isn't complicated but it must be done by someone who can weld and fabricate above the average..it has to be done right or peoples lives are at risk... View Quote Yeah, I am Trying to get a new bar fabricated with threaded ends on both sides. So far no takers. My only option might be to go to a fab shop and see what they can do |
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connoisseur of fine Soviet and European armored vehicles
Let's go Brandon CINCAFUGD |
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