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Posted: 3/29/2024 11:08:47 AM EDT

[#1]

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Yeah $6 is good.

This cost $23k, though it did need some metal repair in a few spots.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/252069/Screenshot_20230118-213127-413_png-3172714.JPG

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Nice. I'm not looking forward to having my FSB bronco done, though it'll come gutted on a body dolly to whoever does it.

Posted: 3/29/2024 11:13:43 AM EDT

[#2]

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The paint alone for my last project cost $2,500.00

That said, have a buddy help do some body work, take it to MAACO, get a base/clear for ~$1,800.00.

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I don't know the value or condition of OP's truck, but if it's say a 10 or 15 year old work truck and the clear is gone, rust is starting in some areas, down to primer in others... that's probably what I would do at the most.

Realistically I'd probably clean the rust up myself and rattle can those areas, do whatever is required to stop the rust from spreading.

OP seems to want a near factory quality paint job and for that I don't trust even the $6k number. Should be more than that and I have a hard time making sense of such an investment on a work truck. ~$6 - 10k goes a long way towards a newer work truck that can be depreciated.

Posted: 3/29/2024 11:29:19 AM EDT

[#3]

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I use PPG in my shop and have never had the local rep say anything about not warrantying their single stage urethane, but having said that, when I called a couple weeks ago I was informed that they no longer provide formulas for single stage in their high end line. Only way to get single stage urethane from them now is in Shop Line, so that might have something to do with it. Interestingly enough, I was at the local Sherwin Williams jobber picking up some primer the other day and asked about their single stage options. Same thing with them, they'll only mix single stage urethanes in their value line now.

All the other aside, I'd be surprised if the OP could get the materials to properly paint his truck for $4000 to $5000 these days, unless he goes with some value line stuff from Tractor Supply or the likes. Material cost has gotten absolutely insane in the past few years.

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Yeah doesn't help all the fancy toners in newer colors. Painted the side of a new ram this week that's white with a limited use glass flake toner in it. The basecoat alone to cover one side of that truck was 1400 dollars and it looks pretty much just white with a tiny bit of sparkle.

Posted: 3/29/2024 11:32:50 AM EDT

[#4]

I'll note what some others have said. If you do all the prep work yourself and detrim the vehicle yourself and take it to a macco or whatever for a base clear for a couple grand might look good and last a while. The biggest problem with those places is they don't prep well or fix anything for those cheap prices and you'll have delamination everwhere and they'll paint right over shitty stuff like rock chips and rust which will look terrible and fail later

Posted: 3/29/2024 12:07:37 PM EDT

[#5]

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What brand ? Serious question. We get old guys that insist on single stage with their classics but PPG won't warranty it. It would give me peace of mind if I used paint I was sure would last in the elements in that scenario.

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Don't slag single stage too much. That's the staple of my industry. The good stuff will last 20-30 years easy.

What brand ? Serious question. We get old guys that insist on single stage with their classics but PPG won't warranty it. It would give me peace of mind if I used paint I was sure would last in the elements in that scenario.

Well, let me start off by saying that I do airplanes. Very similar but different. The main paint in the shop is Sherwin Williams with a little Axalta or Akzonobel thrown in. I just repainted some wheel covers for a neighbor. The airplane was painted back in 2004 and still looks great.

Posted: 3/29/2024 1:51:32 PM EDT

[#6]

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Quoted:
Yeah doesn't help all the fancy toners in newer colors. Painted the side of a new ram this week that's white with a limited use glass flake toner in it. The basecoat alone to cover one side of that truck was 1400 dollars and it looks pretty much just white with a tiny bit of sparkle.

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Quoted:

Quoted:

I use PPG in my shop and have never had the local rep say anything about not warrantying their single stage urethane, but having said that, when I called a couple weeks ago I was informed that they no longer provide formulas for single stage in their high end line. Only way to get single stage urethane from them now is in Shop Line, so that might have something to do with it. Interestingly enough, I was at the local Sherwin Williams jobber picking up some primer the other day and asked about their single stage options. Same thing with them, they'll only mix single stage urethanes in their value line now.

All the other aside, I'd be surprised if the OP could get the materials to properly paint his truck for $4000 to $5000 these days, unless he goes with some value line stuff from Tractor Supply or the likes. Material cost has gotten absolutely insane in the past few years.

Yeah doesn't help all the fancy toners in newer colors. Painted the side of a new ram this week that's white with a limited use glass flake toner in it. The basecoat alone to cover one side of that truck was 1400 dollars and it looks pretty much just white with a tiny bit of sparkle.

No doubt. I'm just not a fan of the look of base/clear but my needs are drastically different than most folks. I restore antique cars which were originally painted with a single stage paint, usually lacquer, and it just doesn't look the same as a modern base/clear product. Not that there's anything wrong with base/clear, it just doesn't have the same look which is what I'm after. All these newer tri-coat colors with the pearls and other stuff would have been practically impossible in the old days. I think that's why the early custom guys like George Barris and Darryl Starbird were so revolutionary with their work, because of the killer fades and use of metallics. Talented dudes for sure!

Posted: 3/29/2024 1:57:37 PM EDT

[#7]

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Well, let me start off by saying that I do airplanes. Very similar but different. The main paint in the shop is Sherwin Williams with a little Axalta or Akzonobel thrown in. I just repainted some wheel covers for a neighbor. The airplane was painted back in 2004 and still looks great.

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Quoted:

Quoted:

Don't slag single stage too much. That's the staple of my industry. The good stuff will last 20-30 years easy.

What brand ? Serious question. We get old guys that insist on single stage with their classics but PPG won't warranty it. It would give me peace of mind if I used paint I was sure would last in the elements in that scenario.

Well, let me start off by saying that I do airplanes. Very similar but different. The main paint in the shop is Sherwin Williams with a little Axalta or Akzonobel thrown in. I just repainted some wheel covers for a neighbor. The airplane was painted back in 2004 and still looks great.

Just curious if the aircraft guys use the same S-W products as the car guys, or if they have other more lightweight products. Weight isn't a factor in painting cars but could become an issue with aircraft real quick. Do y'all use their regular old Ultra series stuff?

Posted: 3/29/2024 2:03:57 PM EDT

[#8]

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Errrr he doesn't know that single stage urethanes are just as tough as urethane clear coats. Maybe single stage to him means lacquer?

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They are definitely not as tough.

Posted: 3/29/2024 2:05:18 PM EDT

[#9]

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And put in about 200 hours worth of sanding and body work, then neglect to include that in his savings calculations.

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You overestimated our paint prep by a factor of 100. We half assed sanded and taped off the trim in 2 hours.

It's a shitty paint job, but as the car goes by on the track it looks fine from the stands. Up close in the paddock... not so much.

... and we used the finest Rust-Oleum from the local hardware store.

Posted: 3/29/2024 2:26:01 PM EDT

[#10]

$61.21 per Gallon
CAT Matterhorn White

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Posted: 3/29/2024 10:30:25 PM EDT

[#11]

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There are places with some scrapes from before I bought it that are starting to rust.

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Then touch it up with some rust.bullet or something. By the time that rust affects anything major, you'll have a million miles on it.

Posted: 4/1/2024 3:31:29 PM EDT

[#12]

This thread makes me sad.

In 1998 I had my recently rolled CJ-7 painted inside and out, and a few dents fixed from the rollover. I took all the trim off the outside, removed the interior including the dash.

Had a new front clip on it, and had a bit dent in the drivers rear quarter and a wave under the passenger door from the roll-over.

The guy who did it was an old retired dealership body man with a little shed in his yard. He did an awesome job, $800 including paint.

That Jeep needs to be painted again, and I want to put it back to factory color, which is Dark Honey Metallic.

What I'm hearing here is it will now cost me more to paint the vehicle than it would ever be worth....

Posted: 4/2/2024 12:33:55 AM EDT

[#13]

Bump for moar discussion. Thanks for the knowledge….am learning…

Posted: 4/2/2024 10:12:28 AM EDT

[#14]

I'm surprised you found a shop that would do a total paint job.

None of the shops around here will even consider it. I have one more to go visit, but I'm not holding my breath.

I've painted lots of happy shit over the years, I've just never done an automotive clearcoat.

Posted: 4/2/2024 10:20:48 AM EDT

[#15]

Op you need to buy good paint or don't do this.

Skip the expensive ppg and contact Chads paint supply in new troy Michigan. He does a lot for the restoration/diy community.

Tell him you want motobase paint. It's good stuff, kind of a little known secret good paint and runs around $1k a gallon.

Also be very careful if you end up spraying clear yourself. Watch out for isocyanates.