I’m sorry if this is in the wrong place, I looked around and didn’t see mention of them anywhere and figured this was pretty close as I’ve seen apparently some woodworkers utilize lasers in some of their work as well.

Anyways, I was going to see if any of you used any diode lasers or not and if so, which ones you liked.  I was considering a 20W diode laser for projects like cutting and engraving leather and engraving tumblers, etc.  Would even consider a 10W if you with experience liked them or regretted it and would only look at 20W or higher now that you’ve had it.  Unfortunately a CO2 laser is not in my budget currently.  I’m looking because I’d like to possibly make a fun side gig with a machine like this selling projects.  

Thanks for your time, and if this post is in the wrong place I apologize!

Travis

I've got a couple of 'em, and they're super cool if you have the right application for them and understand their limits.  Both of mine are older models and the tech has boomed significantly since I got the last one, so I won't try to advise on what current models are best.  There have been some pretty amazing advances in them in the last couple of years, combining multiple beams to increase power, etc., and they're still very reasonably (maybe exceptionally reasonably) priced.  I'd set a budget and do it.  It can easily be low enough that even if you decide it's not for you, you're not in it for that much.

Great topic OP!

Yes, I have a cheap one given to me as a gift.  It is a 10w unit that I think sells for around $200 on Amazon.  Nothing special.

I have used it to cut router templates as well as engrave projects I have made.  I know it is an entry level unit, but I have already gotten plenty of use from it.  One day I might upgrade to a better unit, but for now, this one does what I need.  

All said and done, the software is the key item to learn.  To me, the hardware has been an entry point to learning design and software concepts.

That's what I've always heard is the software is the most important thing

Lightburn software is pretty much king daddy of the diode laser world, with good reason.  It's cheap, it's well designed, it's easy to use, and it does what it's supposed to do.

Thanks for the great responses so far!

The two lasers I have are an Ortur LaserMaster (the original model, a cantilever design rather than a four-sided box frame), and an Ortur LaserMaster 2 Pro S2.  If *I* was going to spring for a new machine right now it would probably be either an Ortur LaserMaster 3 20w @~$1200, or the XTool D1 @ $1K... and while those would be great even for someone just starting out if budget allows, you can also get by a lot cheaper and still build the same skills and produce pretty much the same stuff.

It's unconventional to get a recommendation for anything other than the top of the line from Arfcom but think about this little machine:
Aufero AL1

It's basically the upgraded model of my original LaserMaster, and while the cantilever design limits how big (in X and Y) of an engraving you can produce, the freestanding design also lets you move it around easily to do things like engrave in the middle of a door or on a tabletop or something.  But best of all, it's $200...

That machine, a free Lightburn trial download, and a few scraps of thin plywood or something is all you need to get started.  It's really an astounding level of technology to buy into at that price point; 20 years ago a laser with these capabilities would have been in the tens of thousands of $.  As hobbies go, they don't come much cheaper, and the thing could pay for itself in a weekend if you've got an idea and market for a laser-engraved product.

One more advantage to starting out with a cheapie:  nobody really brags about it on their web sites, but these laser modules eventually burn out.  They're more or less a consumable if you use them heavily, and they're not cheap to replace (understandable, since they are the "meat" of the machine).  Makes sense to do your learnin' on a cheaper unit and move up to a fancier model when you wear that one out.

OK, Stupid Laser Tricks  

Or actually, cool things you can do with even the cheapest of these lasers.  These are regular glazed ceramic tiles, with an image etched with a laser.  It's a set of public domain Pearl Harbor images:



Kind of tangent to the woodworking forum, I know, ("we need a laser subforum!") but I did make the little display stands so we can talk about those if we must . Native hardwoods, walnut, cherry, Osage Orange, 5/16 angled dado to receive tile base.  Most of the real woodworking/laser stuff I've done is too personally identifiable for me to post, so going with this.

The tiles are etched by cleaning them with acetone, painting with a white spray paint, and then burning the image.  The laser reacts with the titanium dioxide in the white paint pigment and the glaze in the tile to permanently etch the tile surface.  Google "Norton white tile method" to see more examples.

Don't be too quick to fire up that new Etsy account, though... burning tiles probably ain't gonna be your second career.  The downside of such cool new tech coming in at less than some pay for a pair of sneakers is that everybody and their brother has one - and is trying to sell laser engraved tiles on Etsy.  

This has been something I’ve been wanting to get for a while.  To cut out balsa and ply for model airplanes, maybe a RC boat or three.   And wooden gear movement wall clocks (instead of tediously cutting out a glued on paper gear pattern with a scroll saw (could be done with a CNC router too)
But the one I have been checking out is the XTool D1.  

Before I was thinking I needed a 40W CO2 laser, maybe?   But this XTool laser seems to be much easier to get started with

It all really depends on the thickness of the stuff you're cutting.  The plane/boat parts probably wouldn't be any problem for the D1, clock gears just depends on thickness.  A CNC router can be limited by the diameter of the bit you can use; precision stuff calls for tiny bits with tiny radii and you're still going to have rounded corners when it's all said and done.  Laser can get as tiny and sharp and detailed as you want.

I can't imagine you'd ever really regret buying the D1.  Put it through its paces while you learn how to drive it, and at the end if you decide you still want a C02 you'll be basing the decision on experience instead of guesswork.  And you'll still have a super cool XTool D1 as a backup or something to pass down to a lucky kid or grandkid.

@midmo

Are the smaller/"beginner" lasers powerful enough for wood engraving? Say for a customized cutting/charcuterie board? I have someone wanting me to start doing personalization on items they can give as gifts. I wouldn't mind the extra income but have no idea of the power I'd need for that task.

You bet, that's their cup o' tea.  They can even do limited cutting in thin wood, later models in a bit thicker, but if cutting is somebody's priority it'd probably be better to jump into the C02 arena.

I've got an engraving pic around here done with a 10w Ortur, will dig it up.

At the risk of some thread slide, can anyone recommend a laser kit to replace a spindle on a CNC router? And if using laser instead of router, how to protect the MDF waste table?

I've recently considered swapping out my CNC spindle for a laser to cut fabric and thinner wood in less time for various projects. I'd also like to do some etching/marking.

You don’t need to replace the spindle. You can just add a laser on the side of it.  Look at j tech lasers.

Right on, thank you. Looks like they offer 2.8, 4.2, 7, 10, 14, and 28 watt options. They do publish some feed/speed information on cuts through various materials but real-world experience always trumps.

Tag for more info adjacent to OP's question on 10w vs 20w lasers.

J-Tech is a super cool company AFAIAC.  I bought a few sheets of acrylic laser shielding from them a few years back, had some questions and when I called them to talk they treated me like I was a million dollar contract rep instead of some grumpy old tinkerer guy with a hundred dollar order.  There's still something to be said for companies who haven't forgotten that their customers are where their livelihood comes from.  

10w vs 20w just boils down to exactly what OP wants to do with the laser.  10w is considerably more affordable and will engrave anything out there shy of metal (whole different ball game).  20w is great if budget isn't the primary concern and cutting thicker wood and other non-metal materials is on the horizon.

Can a 10w diode laser engrave a p-mag effectively?

I haven't tried, but looked into it and most of those are done with a fiber laser... whole different can of worms with a much steeper $$ entry point.

It's not just about power levels. The different types/wavelengths of lasers react differently with different materials.  Figuring out what cuts or engraves what is part of the game.

There's still a lot you can do with a diode, and a lot you can learn while you figure out how deep you want to get into it.  I've played with diodes enough to know that now I want both a CO2 and a fiber out in the shop if I can ever afford it.

In my research I've seen that you need either a CO2 or fiber laser for cutting clear acrylic. But how does a 20, 30, or 40W diode do with 1/4" or 5/8" black acrylic? If they can cut it I don't see why I couldn't use the black for templates.

I have a Jtech 24W that I use on a onefinity CNC. It's probably about the most powerful of that style of diode that is available and isn't complete bullshit chinese ratings (it's US made and rated). Maybe some of the nicer chinese lasers are more honest about their ratings but I've always understood them to cheese that stuff in all sorts of ways if not outright lie. My old 20W Ortur, while very capable, was realistically a 5 watt laser on a good day. This is actually something like 27 watts when the potentiometer is turned up. Plus the air assist is very well integrated.

It does fine in acrylic. It still is nowhere near as fast as a CO2 laser.

In this video it's cutting 1/2" acrylic. It takes seven passes, but thats pretty impressive for a diode. I have some black acrylic laying around I can check later by cutting. I suspect if 1/2 is doable in seven passes, 1/4 and 1/8 could probably be done in 2-3. I have noticed slightly better results from mine than in this video in terms of cutting speed.



Within their limitations they're pretty impressive. And not having to deal with the relatively short life or requirements of a CO2 laser are nice. Diodes will last damn near forever. But like all things its a tradeoff. I definitely do not want to devote the floorspace to a full size discrete laser or pay for one big enough to have a sizable passthrough. This is still first and foremost a wood marking laser and you pay a premium to have it work with a CNC easily. But it is very user friendly and excellent for wood so I have no complaints.

I'm a little worried about eye safety and the arms race of more and more powerful diodes. I don't have a full laser safe enclosure for my CNC and dont plan to build one at present. I do wear safety classes around the Jtech. Still, it makes me a little paranoid! On the other hand if they announce a 36 or 48 W version in the next year or so I'll probably be first in line to trade up. I love this thing and use it all the time. If that happens I will likely take steps to ensure laser safety of an enclosure I will prioritize.

I use both vectric and lightburn.

For anyone at jtech googling their company name, a QD detach for the air nozzle and power would be super cool. It's hardly a big deal to remove them as is, but I go from cut to laser on a lot of projects and that would be sweet.

Glad to see this thread, I've been getting interested in this kind of stuff lately. Those ceramic tiles would make great gifts... and you could cut a frame for them with the same laser...

What kind of software do these use? Are they mostly proprietary?

I’m considering getting a 20W Ortur with the air assist, the enclosure, and the baseplate.

My goal is to cut 3mm birch plywood.

Their ads show that using the air avoids the scorch marks on the wood. Have you tried that, and if so, how well does it work (as far as not scorching)?

I don't have an air assist - yet - but I have used a small squirrel cage blower desk fan blowing across while it cuts, and it does help.  I'll be rigging up an air assist at some point... noting that for some things, like the tile engravings above, you won't want to use it.

Easiest and most effective way I've found to prevent scorch marks is, though, to burn through a layer of blue painter's tape.  Just use it as a mask and the laser just vaporizes whatever bits are in the way.