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Link Posted: 4/23/2024 7:15:24 PM EDT
[#1]
Also, a 12mm x 18mm steel assembly pin / dowel pin is the perfect size for the strikers and can be bought at most industrial suppliers.
Link Posted: 4/23/2024 8:20:16 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz:
Also, a 12mm x 18mm steel assembly pin / dowel pin is the perfect size for the strikers and can be bought at most industrial suppliers.
View Quote

I'm still looking at buying tungsten rod for this. I found two and a half inch chunks for $22
Link Posted: 4/23/2024 8:39:42 PM EDT
[#3]
Maybe tungsten carbide pins? Those are available in the right diameter.
Link Posted: 4/23/2024 8:58:35 PM EDT
[#4]
Man, printing the bolt carriers is kicking my ass.  Everything else printed nicely except these are coming out with one side round and the other a grossly deformed oval.

I'll get it sorted out.  Just annoyed at the issue.
Link Posted: 4/23/2024 9:55:46 PM EDT
[#5]
I printed them standing vertical on the head end, but I'm using PETG carbon fiber filament with a .6 nozzle so I'm not worried about layer adhesion or strength like with PLA.
Link Posted: 4/23/2024 10:16:56 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Postal0311:
Man, printing the bolt carriers is kicking my ass.  Everything else printed nicely except these are coming out with one side round and the other a grossly deformed oval.

I'll get it sorted out.  Just annoyed at the issue.
View Quote


I tried printing them with ABS and they just squashed towards the bed.

Same printer with PLA is just fine.
Link Posted: 4/24/2024 6:18:50 PM EDT
[#7]
I dunno why I just thought of this, but if your clutch was engaged while you were trying to reverse it and the bolts were installed then it's probably the strikers hitting the flat face of the drop off point just above the safety. That would cause it to hard stop at that point for sure, but I wouldn't have that occur because I haven't installed my strikers yet.
Link Posted: 4/24/2024 7:00:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz:
I dunno why I just thought of this, but if your clutch was engaged while you were trying to reverse it and the bolts were installed then it's probably the strikers hitting the flat face of the drop off point just above the safety. That would cause it to hard stop at that point for sure, but I wouldn't have that occur because I haven't installed my strikers yet.
View Quote


Strikers not installed. I went out there and played with it a little more and it's working now in reverse but it still catching a little bit on something somewhere. It wasn't binding on a particular barrel it was binding on all of them so it's more than likely a ridge on the cam path somewhere
Link Posted: 4/24/2024 10:23:55 PM EDT
[#9]
Turning it backwards unscrews the crank.
Link Posted: 4/29/2024 9:50:44 AM EDT
[#10]
Built the tripod over the weekend. Still waiting to get over to the lathe and turn the strikers.

Link Posted: 4/29/2024 5:35:16 PM EDT
[#11]
I've got my strikers made now using 6 x 1mm threaded stainless rod for the bearing posts and 12mm x 18mm stainless for the striker body. My bearings are press fit on the posts so they shouldn't come loose . They're pretty easy to thread in and out to adjust height for the cam channel in the receiver, once height is determined (instructions say .33") a small drop of blue locktite should keep it from turning in or out when cycling and still allow disassembly (theoretically!).

Using my file for the bolt cam pins I'm having the pins 3d printed in steel, aluminum, and titanium for giggles rather than grinding or machining down regular AR pins. Price was only about $4 per pin in steel or aluminum (titanium was about $18 ). I'm also having a spare set of striker bodies 3d printed in stainless steel to see how they look, price on those was only about $6 each

Link Posted: 4/29/2024 10:46:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jestertoo] [#12]
I still think striker body's in tungsten will help with light strikes, but I'm going to try regular steel first.
I like your threaded post idea. I might stop and get some threaded rod and do the same.
You didn't flute the sides of the striker to reduce friction?
Link Posted: 4/29/2024 10:53:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ozymandiaz] [#13]
I actually beefed up the spring slightly (1.6mm wire x 30mm length) and will adjust there for primer hits before changing the mass of the strikers themselves. I used 12mm rod for the strikers and that is enough undersized that it doesn't need any fluting (.47" instead of half inch). My carbon fiber tubes came in so I finally got to finish the tripod and holy crap this thing looks great!

Link Posted: 4/30/2024 9:01:58 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ozymandiaz:
I actually beefed up the spring slightly (1.6mm wire x 30mm length) and will adjust there for primer hits before changing the mass of the strikers themselves. I used 12mm rod for the strikers and that is enough undersized that it doesn't need any fluting (.47" instead of half inch). My carbon fiber tubes came in so I finally got to finish the tripod and holy crap this thing looks great!

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/398541/1000078013-3201700.jpg
View Quote

Awesome.

Now do a pintle mount, mount it on a pickup truck and drive down I-5 ?

No seriously this this is awesome. I can't wait for the range report :)
Link Posted: 5/1/2024 11:22:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ozymandiaz] [#15]
It's official, a 1" or 25mm carbon fiber tube for the center post of the barrel cluster works just fine. It doesn't help weight distribution / balance but does cut overall weight significantly VS a solid aluminum rod or even the .25" wall aluminum tube I was using. This is a 25mm OD x 20mm ID tube I'm using so it's pretty stout. Better yet it looks good and matches the carbon fiber tripod legs

Link Posted: 5/2/2024 1:36:36 PM EDT
[#16]
I'd love to 3D print the receiver and clear
Link Posted: 5/2/2024 1:38:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jestertoo] [#17]
Actually thinking about it it would still be opaque because of the thickness of the walls in the infill.
Link Posted: 5/2/2024 1:41:21 PM EDT
[#18]
If you were really obsessed about it being clear, you could do a lost PLA plaster or maybe silicone mold and cast it out of acrylic. Would be cool, but a total pain in the arse!
Link Posted: 5/3/2024 2:30:42 PM EDT
[#19]
I have a "clear" plastic AR15 lower that is just cool for showing people how they work. It's not strong enough for real firing though.

How cool would it be to see the moving parts inside the gatling?
Link Posted: 5/3/2024 2:33:53 PM EDT
[#20]
That would be cool, I might try doing smaller size sections like the delinker on my resin printer since I can make transparent stuff with that. Strength should be sufficient, but only one way to tell for sure!
Link Posted: Today 10:03:51 PM EDT
[#21]
locked mine up hard. Gonna have to take it apart tomorrow.

Was installing my 4th striker (been running all 6 no striker for a few days) and it got about half way around and locked.
Link Posted: Today 10:56:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ozymandiaz] [#22]
My metal 3d printed strikers and cam pins should arrive tomorrow or Friday, if you believe FedEx. The manufacturer was closed for a week for Labor Day / May Day so the job took twice as long but at least shipping should be quick.
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