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Posted: 4/15/2024 4:04:01 PM EDT
[#1]
MDF is the way to go. Doesn't shrink and expand as bad with temp and humidititties.
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Posted: 4/15/2024 4:17:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Sorry, but shiplap is waaaaay too close to SIIHPAPP.
Just my opinion. |
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Posted: 4/16/2024 5:18:06 AM EDT
[#3]
Shiplap in a coffered ceiling?
 I would maybe mock that up or do a scale drawing or something to make sure you want that look. It sounds... odd. I might be envisioning it wrong. That said, if you go that route, I would not go MDF. Presuming you are referring to 4x8 sheets, it will have to be screwed up. Traditional ship lap can be toe nailed with finish nails in the tongue. MDF is great on walls because you can use construction adhesive and a few finish nails since you aren't fighting gravity. Not so much when it comes to ceilings. |
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Posted: 4/16/2024 8:47:27 AM EDT
[#4]
Never done it, but..
I'd be worried that mdf would sag over time unless glued, adding to the work. The pine could be finished in a faux pickled oak type finish which would add a little style over plain white paint. Translucent, but deep enough that you just barely see the woodgain, then covered with satin poly. |
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Posted: 4/16/2024 9:11:08 AM EDT
[#5]
moisture may be a problem with MDF. but it would probably work.
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Posted: 4/16/2024 10:44:04 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shiplap in a coffered ceiling? I would maybe mock that up or do a scale drawing or something to make sure you want that look. It sounds... odd. I might be envisioning it wrong. That said, if you go that route, I would not go MDF. Presuming you are referring to 4x8 sheets, it will have to be screwed up. Traditional ship lap can be toe nailed with finish nails in the tongue. MDF is great on walls because you can use construction adhesive and a few finish nails since you aren't fighting gravity. Not so much when it comes to ceilings. Think A-Frame house style vaulted ceiling, decorative beams running vertically from the 8ft walls up to the 19ft peak. Shiplap will be layed horizontally up the peak. Each run is 8ft wide and I think about 16ft long. The MDF Shiplap is 5/8” thick, 5.5” by 8’ boards like this:  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/16/2024 3:32:13 PM EDT
[#7]
I don't see how you can install that without face nailing in addition to nailing in the tongue as I simply wouldn't trust adhesive on a ceiling install to replace nails. This brings up the problem when face nailing MDF - it displaces & raises the material around the nail head and when you sand it flat that spot is rougher than the surrounding material. If you spray the finish coat on MDF it really shows these spots.
Like others suggested I'd go with a true tongue & groove product instead of shiplap. |
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Posted: 4/16/2024 3:40:21 PM EDT
[#8]
MDF is garbage. if it ever gets wet (or even condensing humidity) it’s done. It swells and never unswells after drying. And it’s both heavy and weak… it will tend to sag under its own weight without a bunch of fasteners or using adhesive..
I’d go vinyl planks before MDF any day. Wood is best though. |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 5:05:18 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Think A-Frame house style vaulted ceiling, decorative beams running vertically from the 8ft walls up to the 19ft peak. Shiplap will be layed horizontally up the peak. Each run is 8ft wide and I think about 16ft long. The MDF Shiplap is 5/8” thick, 5.5” by 8’ boards like this: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66797/IMG_2977_jpeg-3189409.JPG That product does change the situation some. As other have pointed out, moisture is a consideration so I would definitely recommend thoroughly sealing any cut ends. Thinned out wood glue works well. I would probably personally still go with solid wood over MDF in that scenario but that particular product makes a MDF more feasible. Nailing will be a treat. While you can probably get away with a 2 or 2 1/4" finish nail in both the face and tongue, the pressure needed to shoot the face + sheetrock +popcorn +strapping or joist is not the same as the thinner tongue. You're going to want to set your depth and pressure to account for both, lest you find yourself shooting through or trying to set nails on a ceiling with a hammer and nail set. |
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Posted: 4/17/2024 6:03:08 AM EDT
[#10]
What are your feelings on VOC's?
How about fire resistance? |
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Posted: 4/18/2024 1:07:00 AM EDT
[#11]
Ship lap is out, and siding inside your house is a terrible idea. Ive been replacing most of the "shiplap" I did a few years ago. Even the barn wood ceilings are out. The stuff rains dusty dirt on new furniture. MDF is garbage and full of formaldehyde.
You'll wonder why you get head aches after you sit in there a while. For the money, get a good dry wall guy and they can sand and skim it. with paint and a good prep it'll take four days. It's a good classic look and way less hassle. |
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Posted: 4/19/2024 10:04:48 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted: Covering popcorn in the vaulted main room. Just under 1200 sqft. Eight sections 8ft wide with decorative beams separating them so laying will be simple, just stacking them horizontally up the ceiling. Wife wants it white. I can get MDF prepainted which would save me a ton of time. Any reason not to go with MDF? |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 1:04:03 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Shiplap in a coffered ceiling? I would maybe mock that up or do a scale drawing or something to make sure you want that look. It sounds... odd. I might be envisioning it wrong. That said, if you go that route, I would not go MDF. Presuming you are referring to 4x8 sheets, it will have to be screwed up. Traditional ship lap can be toe nailed with finish nails in the tongue. MDF is great on walls because you can use construction adhesive and a few finish nails since you aren't fighting gravity. Not so much when it comes to ceilings.  Attached FileThis is my living room ceiling, doesn't look too bad to me. |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 1:11:27 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/241636/216451e6-498e-4cdf-baf0-b5d0f83a6ad4-1_a-3207707.JPG This is my living room ceiling, doesn't look too bad to me. Damn dude your house has some nice finish carpentry. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 10:32:26 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/241636/216451e6-498e-4cdf-baf0-b5d0f83a6ad4-1_a-3207707.JPG This is my living room ceiling, doesn't look too bad to me. I’ve done something similar to this on a hotel ballroom. I like leech f26 adhesive. Use 18 gauge sparingly if you are the painter lol. It’s not going to just fall off unless the drywall falls. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 10:37:29 PM EDT
[#16]
Our entire home has Cypress wood for the ceilings. 15 years and it still looks brand new. Buy once cry once.
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Posted: 5/29/2024 10:17:25 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: moisture may be a problem with MDF. but it would probably work. I used a recycled plastic shiplap for a bathroom ceiling. Cannot find good tiles anymore, at least not in the big box stores and local home centers, and I hate drop ceiling. It looks good. But it is somewhat soft so you need to be careful handling and installing to avoid dents. Sort of like trex but no fake woodgrain just smooth. I cannot remember the name of the manufacturer but I think they make it around Scranton Pa. Didn’t want the chicom shit - that gets poor reviews on HD The strips are reversible- one side has the bead, and the other is flat with a v groove at the tongue and groove joint. I used the flat side. |
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Posted: 5/29/2024 11:26:18 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't see how you can install that without face nailing in addition to nailing in the tongue as I simply wouldn't trust adhesive on a ceiling install to replace nails. This brings up the problem when face nailing MDF - it displaces & raises the material around the nail head and when you sand it flat that spot is rougher than the surrounding material. If you spray the finish coat on MDF it really shows these spots. Like others suggested I'd go with a true tongue & groove product instead of shiplap. And the popcorn is rough enough to cause waviness in that better strap it first. |
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Posted: 5/30/2024 9:23:48 AM EDT
[#19]
Pine. Or any kind of wood.
MDF will work, but you may see nail pops later on if not done correctly. If humidity is an issue, use cedar or cypress. But inside a conditioned space, pine will work fine. I used 1/8" v-grooved pine boards for a rustic look. Looks great, but you've got to buy 3x more than you need because it's extremely knotty and fragile and warps easily if not left perfectly flat. Once glued and nailed, it's fine. Of course, you don't have to use 1/8" v-groove |
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