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Posted: 5/8/2024 10:36:53 AM EDT
2016 Nissan Pathfinder driver side front, looks simple enough, questions:

- Who makes a decent wheel bearing? I would prefer not to have to screw with it again? There are about 18 flavors on rock auto ranging from $37-$130.

- Does anyone know the torque specs for the axle nut? Any other torque specs I should be concerned with?

- Should I just go ahead and replace both front bearings? It's got 105k miles on it.
Link Posted: 5/8/2024 11:09:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Looking at what Rock Auto has, I'd get the Timken.  I try to stick with them or Koyo.  

Googling your torque spec shows it may be 183ft lb.  That sounds about right.  I just replaced wheel bearings on my Toyota Tundra and it was 176ft lb.

Just be glad your bearings are in an assembly that bolts on and off.  I had to use a shop press to swap bearings on my Tundra.

Yes, I would go ahead and do both sides at the same time, just so the other side doesn't crap out in 6 weeks.
Link Posted: 5/8/2024 11:12:05 AM EDT
[#2]
Timken or SKF.

Link Posted: 5/8/2024 11:22:19 AM EDT
[#3]
I like Schaeffler (formally FAG); to my knowledge they aren't making any bearings in China,
which can't be said about US brands these days.


ETA: At that mileage they are probably due anyway, but make sure it isn't a tire going bad.
Link Posted: 5/8/2024 11:32:25 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Looking at what Rock Auto has, I'd get the Timken.  I try to stick with them or Koyo.  

Googling your torque spec shows it may be 183ft lb.  That sounds about right.  I just replaced wheel bearings on my Toyota Tundra and it was 176ft lb.

Just be glad your bearings are in an assembly that bolts on and off.  I had to use a shop press to swap bearings on my Tundra.

Yes, I would go ahead and do both sides at the same time, just so the other side doesn't crap out in 6 weeks.
View Quote
That torque level will likely require a 36" breakover bar or an impact driver with some balls to break it loose. It sucks to get all the right parts in place and not plan for the tools.


Link Posted: 5/8/2024 11:34:32 AM EDT
[#5]
Thanks all for the replies, vary helpful

Eta: I have the pre nerf Ridgid impact wrench, it should do nicely for getting the thing off.
Link Posted: 5/8/2024 11:39:04 AM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 5/8/2024 11:47:28 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Timken has always been my go-to but I haven't done any in a few years.

None of my torque wrenches go high enough for an axle nut but the parts places will "rent" you one.
View Quote


Good point, I bet my crappy HF torque wrench only goes to 150.

Oh well, it gives me an excuse to buy a better one and it's still going to be a significantly cheaper job than having a shop do it.
Link Posted: 5/8/2024 9:35:43 PM EDT
[#8]
SKF is what I usually get from my wholesaler , but if you cant get them go for National, or Timken.  I just hit them with the impact to tighten them, but I have been doing it for nearly 20 years so you may not want to do that.
Link Posted: 5/9/2024 3:02:13 PM EDT
[#9]
I bought skf from napa and they are made in China.
A lot of other makers are now made there.

My sisters have had good luck with the higher grade mevotechs.


If one side is going out do the other.
Link Posted: 5/10/2024 9:06:19 AM EDT
[#10]
Only do the one that is bad. I did a bearing in my InLaws Saab 9-5 years ago at maybe 90k. They asked me to do both sides and said that's unnecessary if it isn't bad. The other one was still original when they sold it 5 years and 40k miles later.
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