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Posted: 4/4/2024 1:47:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: trails-end]
This is a Prusa Mks3+. It mainly looks like it's not sticking to the board, but is there something else?
The last thing I successfully printed was parts for a DIY enclosure. Then I bought the Prusa enclosure, put the printer in it and I can't print anything. Benchy was looking good and then I guess it broke free. I had paste glue on the board. The other print was supposed to be a cord winder. I tried it with 2 different filaments. The last pic is a wad of filament stuck to the nozzle.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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NE, USA
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Posted: 4/4/2024 1:52:56 PM EDT
[#1]
Is that PLA? Don't use the enclosure for PLA, leave it open. Otherwise it gets too warm in there and you'll have problems. Enclosures are good for ABS, and a partial enclosure is good for PETG. They're detrimental to PLA.
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Posted: 4/4/2024 1:59:05 PM EDT
[#2]
relevel your bed
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Posted: 4/4/2024 2:38:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By K1rodeoboater: relevel your bed |
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USA
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Posted: 4/4/2024 2:46:41 PM EDT
[#4]
You need more first layer squish.
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Posted: 4/4/2024 3:00:07 PM EDT
[#5]
So, I messed up the bed level when I put it in the enclosure.
I'll have to look up how to level the bed. I assembled the printer kit and it just worked straight away. |
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Posted: 4/4/2024 3:17:31 PM EDT
[#6]
Scrub the plate with HOT water and dawn, while wearing nitrile gloves, and never touch the plate with bare hands. You don't need any adhesives on these beds, they will only make it worse.
Always use the same side of the bed. Run first layer calibration. Check out the prusa video on exactly how and what the first layer should look like. Make sure you are using the right filament profile. |
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Posted: 4/4/2024 4:44:05 PM EDT
[#7]
Also, the textured bed is best for petg. Satin is what you seek for almost everything else.
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Posted: 4/4/2024 7:22:10 PM EDT
[#8]
Your nozzle is way, way too high.
It's by far the most common mistake. Next is overuse of brims, as a band aid to fix the underlying issue, which is bad adhesion caused by either excessive Z offset or a dirty bed. Use dawn only. People swear by alcohol and acetone. Acetone can damage a lot of bed surfaces and alcohol doesn't remove oils effectively, which is usually caused by you touching the bed inadvertantly. |
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USA
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Posted: 4/4/2024 7:25:35 PM EDT
[#9]
If you’re trying to make string you’re about 80% of the way there.
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Posted: 4/4/2024 7:28:22 PM EDT
[#10]
Nozzle to high off the bed.
If that doesn't fix it, increase first layer extrusion 10% and bump up first layer temps 5c. |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 4/4/2024 8:43:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ajroyer]
[#11]
I'm learning how to 3D print and had the same issue. I found this video:
Maker's Muse When I first printed, most of the settings were whatever the slicer defaulted to. I increased the bed temp from 60c to 70c, and found out that was too hot. Down to 65c, better first layer. Also saw my first layer was not connecting well, so increased initial layer flow to 125 or 150%. Started using masking tape on the bed, with glue stick on the masking tape. This has been sort of problematic and sort of helpful. The seam between the tape sections can come out in the part, no matter how carefully they're lined up. The heated bed and long prints can see the tape start to come loose, although dropping the bed temp to 60c after the initial layer helped stop that. Having the glue on the tape does help the first layer hold better though. The biggest thing has been leveling the bed before every print. It doesn't take long and makes all the difference. YMMV, Good luck! |
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Posted: 4/4/2024 9:08:01 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ajroyer: I'm learning how to 3D print and had the same issue. I found this video: Maker's Muse When I first printed, most of the settings were whatever the slicer defaulted to. I increased the bed temp from 60c to 70c, and found out that was too hot. Down to 65c, better first layer. Also saw my first layer was not connecting well, so increased initial layer flow to 125 or 150%. Started using masking tape on the bed, with glue stick on the masking tape. This has been sort of problematic and sort of helpful. The seam between the tape sections can come out in the part, no matter how carefully they're lined up. The heated bed and long prints can see the tape start to come loose, although dropping the bed temp to 60c after the initial layer helped stop that. Having the glue on the tape does help the first layer hold better though. The biggest thing has been leveling the bed before every print. It doesn't take long and makes all the difference. YMMV, Good luck! Guys, it's 2024. We have satin sheets and powder coated sheets and PEI sheets and even more sheets. We do not need glue stick or masking tape for PLA, PETG, ABS, PCTG, CPE, ASA, and most other filaments for that matter. If you need masking tape or glue stick for one of these you're band aiding the real issue. /Rant over. |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 4/5/2024 7:00:08 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Guys, it's 2024. We have satin sheets and powder coated sheets and PEI sheets and even more sheets. We do not need glue stick or masking tape for PLA, PETG, ABS, PCTG, CPE, ASA, and most other filaments for that matter. If you need masking tape or glue stick for one of these you're band aiding the real issue. /Rant over. I saw it on the internet so it has to be true... And to be honest, it mostly works... And it's cheap. I've never heard of the other stuff but I'm going to look it up now. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 8:35:10 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ajroyer: I saw it on the internet so it has to be true... And to be honest, it mostly works... And it's cheap. I've never heard of the other stuff but I'm going to look it up now. I don't know what printer you have, but you really only need a textured PEI plate these days. You MAY want a smooth PEI sheet as well if you need to do K-value calibration. Some PETG likes to stick, a LOT, to PEI. The only time I ever use ANYTHING is if I'm printing with something like Sunlu PETG or Overture PETG. Those two brands like to stick like mad to PEI. On those brands ONLY, I spray the bed with windex first. Windex has release agents that let the part pop off when cooled down, otherwise you can damage the bed. I've also found not every bed needs that, but the ones I currently have do. So I have two beds. One windexed, and one I keep clean. I print a LOT of PETG though, so I'm more worried about bed logevity. I've worn out over a dozen build plates already. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 11:37:22 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ajroyer: I saw it on the internet so it has to be true... And to be honest, it mostly works... And it's cheap. I've never heard of the other stuff but I'm going to look it up now. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ajroyer: Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Guys, it's 2024. We have satin sheets and powder coated sheets and PEI sheets and even more sheets. We do not need glue stick or masking tape for PLA, PETG, ABS, PCTG, CPE, ASA, and most other filaments for that matter. If you need masking tape or glue stick for one of these you're band aiding the real issue. /Rant over. I saw it on the internet so it has to be true... And to be honest, it mostly works... And it's cheap. I've never heard of the other stuff but I'm going to look it up now. My E3 has a glass bed that I put blue tape on. My X plus3 has a PEI bed, and holy shit why did I wait this long to get a PEI sheet?! |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 12:36:12 PM EDT
[#16]
Yeah, glass bed is only for super high temp super polymer filaments that you won't be printing on anything but specialty machines.
I lived through when glass was it, and was an early adopter of gekotec and then pei. I have no desire to go back to glass, unless I build my high temp printer that is. And if you really need a bed adhesive, vision miner nano polymer adhesive is the solution. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 5:11:27 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Yeah, glass bed is only for super high temp super polymer filaments that you won't be printing on anything but specialty machines. I lived through when glass was it, and was an early adopter of gekotec and then pei. I have no desire to go back to glass, unless I build my high temp printer that is. And if you really need a bed adhesive, vision miner nano polymer adhesive is the solution. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 5:19:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rat_Patrol]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By K1rodeoboater: Glass did do wonders for dealing with beds that would warp though.... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By K1rodeoboater: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Yeah, glass bed is only for super high temp super polymer filaments that you won't be printing on anything but specialty machines. I lived through when glass was it, and was an early adopter of gekotec and then pei. I have no desire to go back to glass, unless I build my high temp printer that is. And if you really need a bed adhesive, vision miner nano polymer adhesive is the solution. You do you, but I'll passing on glass beds on consumer grade printers. |
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Posted: 4/7/2024 1:42:33 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: I don't know what printer you have, but you really only need a textured PEI plate these days. You MAY want a smooth PEI sheet as well if you need to do K-value calibration. Some PETG likes to stick, a LOT, to PEI. The only time I ever use ANYTHING is if I'm printing with something like Sunlu PETG or Overture PETG. Those two brands like to stick like mad to PEI. On those brands ONLY, I spray the bed with windex first. Windex has release agents that let the part pop off when cooled down, otherwise you can damage the bed. I've also found not every bed needs that, but the ones I currently have do. So I have two beds. One windexed, and one I keep clean. I print a LOT of PETG though, so I'm more worried about bed logevity. I've worn out over a dozen build plates already. @-Obsessed- Why do you print with PETG mostly? I am just getting into new filaments because of a super over due upgrade from my Tevo Tarantula. It probably could have printed PETG I just worried about the extruder setup. I ended up getting a Qidi X Max 3 and am blown away by how easily and well it prints. I mean what could change in 7 years for 3d printers?  . I bought some ASA and am printing with that now and am impressed with it.
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Posted: 4/7/2024 4:53:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BeerPimp: @-Obsessed- Why do you print with PETG mostly? I am just getting into new filaments because of a super over due upgrade from my Tevo Tarantula. It probably could have printed PETG I just worried about the extruder setup. I ended up getting a Qidi X Max 3 and am blown away by how easily and well it prints. I mean what could change in 7 years for 3d printers? . I bought some ASA and am printing with that now and am impressed with it.My opinion, but I think PETG is the most versatile material. Not as high temp resistance as ASA, but still very good. Not as UV resistant as ASA, but still exceptional. Fatigue resistance is exceptional, better than ABS, ASA, and PLA. Water resistant. Most are not. Chemical resistant. Most are not. Impact resistant. Most are not. Printed with proper technique and layer adhesion is as strong as the rest of the part. Can be pliable if you'd like, can be stiffened via CF if preferred. Doesn't warp much at all. Dimensional stability is excellent. For all these reasons, it is an ideal filament in 99% of cases. Some people insist ASA is better for outside due to UV resistance but ASA is not nearly as strong as PETG absolute and layer adhesion typically isn't as good. Also larger parts are much trickier, though not impossible. But I'll generally print outside parts in either ASA or PETG depending on specific need. Most other functional prints are PETG. I very rarely print PLA. I reserve that for trinkets for the kids. 
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Posted: 4/7/2024 6:41:59 PM EDT
[#21]
With ASA/ABS, you really need a full enclosure, but you still have the fumes regardless. PETG much less so.
That said, get your nerd on, geek out over polymer material science, and use the right material for the right job. I use everything from $20 PLA to $350/kg engineering filaments. |
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Posted: 4/7/2024 7:01:36 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: With ASA/ABS, you really need a full enclosure, but you still have the fumes regardless. PETG much less so. That said, get your nerd on, geek out over polymer material science, and use the right material for the right job. I use everything from $20 PLA to $350/kg engineering filaments. PLA is never the right filament. Unless you're doing iterative prototyping.
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Posted: 4/7/2024 7:04:35 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: PLA is never the right filament. Unless you're doing iterative prototyping. That, and jigs where I need rigidity. |
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Posted: 4/7/2024 7:06:31 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: That, and jigs where I need rigidity. Fair enough. |
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Posted: 4/7/2024 8:00:10 PM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By trails-end: This is a Prusa Mks3+. It mainly looks like it's not sticking to the board, but is there something else? The last thing I successfully printed was parts for a DIY enclosure. Then I bought the Prusa enclosure, put the printer in it and I can't print anything. Benchy was looking good and then I guess it broke free. I had paste glue on the board. The other print was supposed to be a cord winder. I tried it with 2 different filaments. The last pic is a wad of filament stuck to the nozzle. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460899/0323241801_HDR_resized_jpg-3177880.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460899/0323241828_HDR_resizedd_jpg-3177881.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460899/0324241049_HDR_resized_jpg-3177882.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460899/0324241050_resized_jpg-3177883.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460899/0324241051_resized_jpg-3177884.JPG Clean your bed, and adjust your live-Z. Also make sure nothing's under one of the legs of the frame making it all... chueco. |
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