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Posted: 4/19/2024 7:14:52 PM EDT
Friends gun that I offered to help find more about.  So I come to the hive. I think model 10?

He also said it has problems.  His words:
"jams when trying to release the lock It started doing that after putting 20-30 rounds through it. It spins fine, you just need to hit it a bit in the right position and it will release".  Curious what could be causing that problem. Serial number is  119?50  Thanks for anyones help.














Link Posted: 4/19/2024 7:36:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: VASCAR2] [#1]
The 4” revolver appears to be nickel S&W hand ejector probably in 38 Special cartridge.   This revolver was probably manufactured prior to WW II.   If the revolver is binding up after being shot and then you have difficulty opening the cylinder I’d check to see that the ejector rod is tight.  I’d also inspect under the ejector star to see if it is dirty.   Clean under the ejector star and the revolver breach face.  Clean the cylinder face then with the revolver unloaded cock the hammer.  Use feeler gauge or a flash light and check the clearance between the cylinder face and barrel.   It is possible as the gun heats up the cylinder could be dragging on the barrel.   I can’t remember the specification for cylinder gab maybe (.004” to .008”) but see if each chamber is close to the same gap.

I’m sure more knowledgeable members will be along with specific information.   The small 2” blued revolver looks like an I frame flat latch probably manufactured in the 40’s to 50’s.
Link Posted: 4/19/2024 7:55:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks! Great info there.
Link Posted: 4/19/2024 8:07:10 PM EDT
[#3]
The nickel gun is .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, either a 1st or 2nd Change, based on the serial number of 119450. (The 1st and 2nd Change variants had overlapping serial numbers ranging from 73251 to 146899.) They were manufactured from 1906 to 1909, according to the Standard Catalog of S&W, 4th Edition.
Link Posted: 4/19/2024 8:40:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Urimaginaryfrnd] [#4]
Tools should be maintained in working condition if they are expected to be useful when needed.
Link Posted: 4/19/2024 9:19:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: aeroworksxp] [#5]
Agreed. Guy inherited them from his grandfather
Link Posted: 4/19/2024 9:29:53 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SiVisPacem:
The nickel gun is .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, either a 1st or 2nd Change, based on the serial number of 119450. (The 1st and 2nd Change variants had overlapping serial numbers ranging from 73251 to 146899.) They were manufactured from 1906 to 1909, according to the Standard Catalog of S&W, 4th Edition.
View Quote


Thank you for your help
Link Posted: 4/20/2024 11:56:37 AM EDT
[#7]
Also, do not shoot +P in that revolver. S&W didn't start heat treating the M&P revolver cylinders with M1905, 4th Change models in about 1919. Standard pressure .38 Special (assuming it's chambered for that) is OK.
Link Posted: 4/20/2024 12:40:09 PM EDT
[#8]
On the one side view the front pin the secures the cylinder when closed is sticking out a bit far, which definitely suggests to me the issues is most likely a loose ejector rod. In these old guns they are a traditional style thread, not the reverse left hand thread seen since the 1960’s.
At that age a careful disassembly and cleaning is in order.
Use some proper instruction to disassemble and remember the screws for the slide plate are specific to each of the holes they go in. And side plate is never pried off, you tap the frame with a wooden mallet or screw driver handle until it pops loose.
Link Posted: 4/21/2024 12:07:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: aeroworksxp] [#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VASCAR2:
The 4” revolver appears to be nickel S&W hand ejector probably in 38 Special cartridge.   This revolver was probably manufactured prior to WW II.   If the revolver is binding up after being shot and then you have difficulty opening the cylinder I’d check to see that the ejector rod is tight.  I’d also inspect under the ejector star to see if it is dirty.   Clean under the ejector star and the revolver breach face.  Clean the cylinder face then with the revolver unloaded cock the hammer.  Use feeler gauge or a flash light and check the clearance between the cylinder face and barrel.   It is possible as the gun heats up the cylinder could be dragging on the barrel.   I can’t remember the specification for cylinder gab maybe (.004” to .008”) but see if each chamber is close to the same gap.

I’m sure more knowledgeable members will be along with specific information.   The small 2” blued revolver looks like an I frame flat latch probably manufactured in the 40’s to 50’s.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By VASCAR2:
The 4” revolver appears to be nickel S&W hand ejector probably in 38 Special cartridge.   This revolver was probably manufactured prior to WW II.   If the revolver is binding up after being shot and then you have difficulty opening the cylinder I’d check to see that the ejector rod is tight.  I’d also inspect under the ejector star to see if it is dirty.   Clean under the ejector star and the revolver breach face.  Clean the cylinder face then with the revolver unloaded cock the hammer.  Use feeler gauge or a flash light and check the clearance between the cylinder face and barrel.   It is possible as the gun heats up the cylinder could be dragging on the barrel.   I can’t remember the specification for cylinder gab maybe (.004” to .008”) but see if each chamber is close to the same gap.

I’m sure more knowledgeable members will be along with specific information.   The small 2” blued revolver looks like an I frame flat latch probably manufactured in the 40’s to 50’s.

Originally Posted By captain127:
On the one side view the front pin the secures the cylinder when closed is sticking out a bit far, which definitely suggests to me the issues is most likely a loose ejector rod. In these old guns they are a traditional style thread, not the reverse left hand thread seen since the 1960’s.
At that age a careful disassembly and cleaning is in order.
Use some proper instruction to disassemble and remember the screws for the slide plate are specific to each of the holes they go in. And side plate is never pried off, you tap the frame with a wooden mallet or screw driver handle until it pops loose.

Nailed it!  He checked the ejector rod and it was loose.  After he tightened it all is working well again.   Thank you.
Link Posted: 4/22/2024 10:36:50 AM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for the update!
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