Sometimes cycles smoothly and is acceptable. Other times something is binding at the beginning of the trigger pull, once the resistance is overcome, my effort is so high to get through that initial wall that I no longer have the ability to have a controlled smooth revolver style rolling trigger method.

Pulling the hammer back to shoot single action is surprisingly hard. Should I remove a coil or two from the spring?

UMMM, what coil spring?

I'd contact S&W and see about sending it to them.   NO way that should be happening, especially to a PRO.

IN the meantime, is the trigger that bad with the cylinder swung out?  

When you pull the trigger (DA), 3 things are happening: the pawl is advancing the cylinder (at the little star, where the bullets go in), another pawl is cocking the hammer, and the spring loaded cylinder latch ( underneath) is forced out of one divet and is riding the spinning cylinder to the next divet, to hold the cylinder in place.  One or more of those things are hanging up- possibly out of spec. There may possibly be a spring or small part missing or out of place.

M60's have a coil hammer spring. All larger framed models have a flat spring a screw at the bottom of the grip to tension it.

You can't pull the trigger or hammer with the cylinder swung out on any S&W's I own.

I'm looking at the schematic and seeing a flat spring. You can verify by taking the grip panels off, I know some Rugers have a coil spring.BUT, you think by cutting the hammer spring shorter will fix it?

Hmmm, I's able to with my Mod 66.

A M60 schematic?

I only own this one M60 model, it's probably ten years old.

Cutting a coil or two would reduce trigger weight, but may cause misfires with tough primers.

I have many other S&W revolvers, 686, 27, 10, 57 which all have flat springs and a tension screw.

IMO something else is going on.

Disassembly (removal of the hammer spring) is easy. You simply cock the hammer with the grips removed and you can use a paper clip inserted in a hole in the hammer spring guide rod which captures it under tension.

Mine is a M60-16

BorderPatrol,

you sound like you have an idea whats going on in one...

1st to pull the trigger with the cylinder out pull the cylinder release back manually.  the cylinder release is blocking I think the hammer, been a LONG time since I was in a wheelgun.

Next I wouldnt cut a spring, something else is wrong which is evident by you saying "SOMETIMES" if it was the springs it wouldnt change from one pull to the next.
Schematic to J frame they do have coil springs as shown in the schematic.

If you are comfortable taking the side plate off, do it and watch as you cycle the action and figure out whats jamming what (watch the rebound slide down at the bottom might wanna keep a finger on it, without the side plate it wants to work its way out.

I would also mark the cylinder if its only doing it with the cylinder in (put tape on it or something) and see if its binding in the same place every time, you could have a bent crane or something.

was it always this way, if you bought it used I would take it apart and look for anything out of the ordinary. If the rebound slide is rough or the place it sits is it can cause a rough pull but Ive never seen it do what you are describing (its constant).  youll have to just look and find it honestly.

Also if its still doing it without the cylinder pull the cylinder completely

OH look under the breechface area where the ratchet turns and see if it is making contact with frame (wear marks)

Only thing I can tell you with almost certanty is it doesnt sound like springs.

kuhnhausen has a book on revolvers - its pretty good.

The crane is straight and not loose.

I never slap the cylinder closed, a practice that ensures damage eventually.

I think it may be being caused by the "hillary hole" safety. I'll take it apart tomorrow and look for wear patterns.

Ive never even seen one apart with that, just looked at a video on what looked like an N frame...... Thats GOOFY

Please post what you find, now Im curious.

I have a Smith Model 29, Last time I looked it ran fine,
This year I was oiling down everything in the vault and I noticed the trigger was hard to pull and even sticking half way through the pull.
Took the side plate off and looked at each part.
I found a Burr on the trigger just above where it made contact with the hammer.
Stoned the burr off, and ran the rebound slide acouple of times over 400 grit sandpaper.
Flushed all the inner parts with Gun scrubber and relubed with Brakfree CLP.
Action is better than new.

Gremlins at work