How close can we get it to the trigger guard?  That was my mission this morning.

The closest you can get it out of the box is to use the 1913-1 block in it’s proper orientation on the pic rail slot closest to the muzzle.  It looks like this:
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And then this is the outcome when mounted on a full size USP 45:
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It’s not bad, but it left a little to be desired for me so I started messing with the options.  I found none of the other inserts brought it closer in any orientation, but the same 1913-1 block fits the pic rail nearest the trigger guard when reversed, and looks like this:
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You can see I filed the back (originally front) of the block to give a little clearance for a screwdriver to make opening the battery compartment easier:
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Only issue is the bottom of the block is slotted for that battery cap retainer wire.  I don’t want it messing with my laser zero between battery changes so I made a slot in the bottom with a small file.  Now the wire goes through clean, without any rattling and the light should lock up more consistently. Plus the wire has the exact same travel for battery changes as it had with the block in the other orientation:
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Ultimately it mounts about 3mm further back (maybe less)
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And a photo of clearance with the trigger guard:
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It’s not a huge difference, but this seems like as close as it can possibly get toward the back of the rail without removing material from the housing.  It seems worth it to me.  It’s taken me longer to make this post.

Anyway I’m not sure how this mounting system compares to the TLR1HL, and I’ll leave it to you guys to say if this is helpful for anything other than the VIR II.  And hope this helps someone in the future.

Cool!  I have a TLR1HL on my USP, and I would like to have it further back.  But I thought it looked like the GG&G tab would impact the light housing before anything else, so I figured it would require some grinding on the light body.  I'll have to have another look at it.....