User Panel
Posted: 4/7/2024 2:03:20 PM EDT
These things are god awful . Grow everywhere . Terrible thorns .
Some kinda spray to use ?. I don’t have hours to dig out one bush . Way too many . I’ve heard that back in the day peeps actually planted them to supplement fences . |
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Buy a brush killer spray and a sprayer from your local farm store. There are several brands and they vary in price.
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The wife spends a goodly amount of time and money to get the damn things to grow down here and you tell me they grow wild up there?
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Originally Posted By John-in-austin: The wife spends a goodly amountt of time and money to get the damn things to grow down here and you tell me they grow wild up there? View Quote |
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Iowa state flower
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Goats will kill it but they also are hard to keep contained so only do goats if you have good fences.
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"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt |
I rented a house here with them and they never died even after no water for a couple years. Tough bastards.
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BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles. People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird. |
Remedy- excellent. 2,4 D will work well in the spring when they are tinder.
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American Pioneer Corps' Lowest Common Denominator
CO, USA
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If you spray them, just bear in mind that they are going to be dead, brittle thorny SOB's you're still gonna have to remove.
I'd rather remove the branches green while they're not as wicked, then spray the crowns so they don't come back. Then pickaxe the crown out when they're dead and brittle. Any 2,4D or glyphosate will kill them. |
"The simple believe anything, but the prudent give thought to their steps"
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Rabbits seem to eat my rose bushes. Then the spotted leaf disease takes care of the rest.
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Originally Posted By AR15Texan: Rabbits seem to eat my rose bushes. Then the spotted leaf disease takes care of the rest. View Quote |
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Sáncte Míchael Archángele, defénde nos in proélio
IN, USA
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"Do not overthink it, gentlemen. It's only a gunfight, not an IRS tax audit." - Louis Awerbuck
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That stuff is everywhere here too. I've never tried to kill all of it as we have it all over the place. But when I'm mowing the trails or the fields, if I see the stuff off to the side I pretty much always take the time to back the rotary cutter over it.
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Gotta enjoy the little things.
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I'm almost 60 and remember walking the same acerage w my.Grandpa . ( rip )
Hell of a man . Anyways he carried what he called a.Corn knife . Machete to me . But any way as we.were.walking he hack at every baby yearling one he saw . (Rosebush .) Maybe they'd be 12-18 inches tall Now I know why . Thanks all . I LL lookin to some 24d . |
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Crossbow herbicide, with a surfactant, will kill it.
If it isn’t too tall, you can back a rotary cutter over it, then spray what comes back. I had a small area that was multi flora rose, poison Ivy and autumn olive-the devils salad I called it. Cutting, spraying and mowing and now it’s a decent grassy area. |
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"The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there."
L.P. Hartley |
I enlisted a few goats and with the help of an electric fence they ate it down in a hurry.
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LEGALIZE FREEDOM!
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Get some triclopyr basal spray.
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GD is like putting on crampons and walking through a room full of puppies.
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By pestilence12: If you spray them, just bear in mind that they are going to be dead, brittle thorny SOB's you're still gonna have to remove. I'd rather remove the branches green while they're not as wicked, then spray the crowns so they don't come back. Then pickaxe the crown out when they're dead and brittle. Any 2,4D or glyphosate will kill them. View Quote I completely agree that I'd rather dig them out when they're green. Glyphosate or 2,4-D ALONE won't get them unless it's early in the season. So get them early when the foliage is tender, cut them down really low, wait for the new green stuff to start coming out, then hit them with herbicide. The tender foliage is much more susceptible. Something like Crossbow is better than 2,4-D or glyphosate alone. Something that has triclopyr in it will help the 2,4-D perform better. There are lots of generic versions of crossbow. BE AWARE that triclopyr is notorious for drift. Read the label and spray in the right conditions. Not dead still with a heavy cloud cover. Not in wind above whatever the label reads. Keep your spray droplets BIG cuz a fine mist will drift much worse. This will avoid collateral damage to stuff you don't want hurt. Like shade trees or ornamentals. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Most effective means is a shovel to the rootball.....way less effort than the others too
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Saw it down to a stump.
Paint stump with Round Up (glyphosate) concentrate. |
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Chop it off and tordon the stump.
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17 And that no man might buy or sell, save he that had the mark, or the name of the beast, or the number of his name.
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By Oldgold: After you’ve wasted money on everything else https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/443141/IMG_0621_jpeg-3189684.JPG View Quote Imazapyr is used for total vegetation control, so it's going to smoke stuff around the undersirable plant AND it's not only has a long residual (meaning its effects are going to remain in the soil) but it also moves easily THROUGH soil to contaminate adjacent areas and water. It is a scorched-earth option, and if you don't care about the residual or the contamination of surrounding groundwater, it will almost certainly kill the target pest. I would much rather use something that does not have so much potential for collateral damage. ETA: OP, if you choose to use Imazapyr, there are generics for a lot less money. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Cut and treat...
Cut with a blade on a brush cutter, or a saw. Then treat the stump with a mix of 25% triclopyr, 75% basal oil or diesel fuel (red dyed fuel let's you see what you covered... This is THE method used by invasive control professionals. |
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Originally Posted By SigOwner_P229: Cut and treat... Cut with a blade on a brush cutter, or a saw. Then treat the stump with a mix of 25% triclopyr, 75% basal oil or diesel fuel (red dyed fuel let's you see what you covered... This is THE method used by invasive control professionals. View Quote This is the way except I would start with an 80%-20% mix. I always start at the low manufactures recommended rate and work up to the max on retreating anything that didn’t die the first time. It is almost impossible to get complete coverage on the large bushes the first time. I use the stronger mix the second time to overcome any resistance. Remember to follow the label to cover your butt. |
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Executive Director, Vast Right Wing Conspiracy
NC, USA
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tebuthiuron
But you must be very very careful. It kills everything it touches, and is absorbed by the root system. So you might not put it on a plant, but if it reaches that plants roots, it's game over. |
“People will forgive you for being wrong, but they will never forgive you for being right—especially if events prove you right while proving them wrong.”
- Thomas Sowell |
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Imazapyr is used for total vegetation control, so it's going to smoke stuff around the undersirable plant AND it's not only has a long residual (meaning its effects are going to remain in the soil) but it also moves easily THROUGH soil to contaminate adjacent areas and water. It is a scorched-earth option, and if you don't care about the residual or the contamination of surrounding groundwater, it will almost certainly kill the target pest. I would much rather use something that does not have so much potential for collateral damage. ETA: OP, if you choose to use Imazapyr, there are generics for a lot less money. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By Oldgold: After you’ve wasted money on everything else https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/443141/IMG_0621_jpeg-3189684.JPG Imazapyr is used for total vegetation control, so it's going to smoke stuff around the undersirable plant AND it's not only has a long residual (meaning its effects are going to remain in the soil) but it also moves easily THROUGH soil to contaminate adjacent areas and water. It is a scorched-earth option, and if you don't care about the residual or the contamination of surrounding groundwater, it will almost certainly kill the target pest. I would much rather use something that does not have so much potential for collateral damage. ETA: OP, if you choose to use Imazapyr, there are generics for a lot less money. I don't care for herbicides like that, most of them are extremely toxic to fish. Living on a hill above the lake and streams make me more aware of potential problems from runoff. Plus drawing my water from a well leads me to research groundwater contamination possibilities. Weeds are a pain in the ass to deal with but I don't want to risk poisoning myself or all the critters because of them. |
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Pramitol mixed 50/50 with diesel.
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By TinSpinner: I don't care for herbicides like that, most of them are extremely toxic to fish. Living on a hill above the lake and streams make me more aware of potential problems from runoff. Plus drawing my water from a well leads me to research groundwater contamination possibilities. Weeds are a pain in the ass to deal with but I don't want to risk poisoning myself or all the critters because of them. View Quote So there is another option...it's Tordon (Active ingredient Picloram). It's "non-toxic"--to a LOT more things than some of the chems listed by folks here (including me). It's a "paint-on" herbicide. Basically cut the plant down, paint this on the cut, and the pest is GOING TO DIE. The positive is that you aren't going to hit stuff around it, because it's so targeted (like a basal bark spray--both treating cut surfaces and basal spray are excellent choices) EXCEPT... And this is the big "except"--if you've got a big tree right next to your pest plant, and the roots of the rose have even *thought about* root graftting with the tree, you're going to kill the big tree. Tordon is capable of killing plants with roots that are close to the target. This is not quite as big hairy scary as it sounds, but you need to be aware of it. I use Tordon a lot. I just use it really carefully. And I don't put it on targets that are within the main dripline of a tree I care about. Anything that you "spray" on the entire plant, is going to be more likely to leach into ground water, run off, and kill non-target pests around the rose. Painting it on the cut is going to to keep it WITHIN the target plant (or within the roots it crosses to, per my caution above) and out of the soil. You also use a smaller quantity of the pesticide, and it is not dispersed in air. Small drops, dispersed all over the place, are the worst option for pesticides *usually*. |
Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Born with a low tolerance for bullshit
KY, USA
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Nobody ever wakes me at 2 in the morning telling me that my grass is out on the highway.~~Radiopat
Wine is sunlight held together by water~~Galileo Galilei Well-behaved women rarely make history~~Marilyn Monroe |
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: So there is another option...it's Tordon (Active ingredient Picloram). It's "non-toxic"--to a LOT more things than some of the chems listed by folks here (including me). It's a "paint-on" herbicide. Basically cut the plant down, paint this on the cut, and the pest is GOING TO DIE. The positive is that you aren't going to hit stuff around it, because it's so targeted (like a basal bark spray--both treating cut surfaces and basal spray are excellent choices) EXCEPT... And this is the big "except"--if you've got a big tree right next to your pest plant, and the roots of the rose have even *thought about* root graftting with the tree, you're going to kill the big tree. Tordon is capable of killing plants with roots that are close to the target. This is not quite as big hairy scary as it sounds, but you need to be aware of it. I use Tordon a lot. I just use it really carefully. And I don't put it on targets that are within the main dripline of a tree I care about. Anything that you "spray" on the entire plant, is going to be more likely to leach into ground water, run off, and kill non-target pests around the rose. Painting it on the cut is going to to keep it WITHIN the target plant (or within the roots it crosses to, per my caution above) and out of the soil. You also use a smaller quantity of the pesticide, and it is not dispersed in air. Small drops, dispersed all over the place, are the worst option for pesticides *usually*. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs: Originally Posted By TinSpinner: I don't care for herbicides like that, most of them are extremely toxic to fish. Living on a hill above the lake and streams make me more aware of potential problems from runoff. Plus drawing my water from a well leads me to research groundwater contamination possibilities. Weeds are a pain in the ass to deal with but I don't want to risk poisoning myself or all the critters because of them. So there is another option...it's Tordon (Active ingredient Picloram). It's "non-toxic"--to a LOT more things than some of the chems listed by folks here (including me). It's a "paint-on" herbicide. Basically cut the plant down, paint this on the cut, and the pest is GOING TO DIE. The positive is that you aren't going to hit stuff around it, because it's so targeted (like a basal bark spray--both treating cut surfaces and basal spray are excellent choices) EXCEPT... And this is the big "except"--if you've got a big tree right next to your pest plant, and the roots of the rose have even *thought about* root graftting with the tree, you're going to kill the big tree. Tordon is capable of killing plants with roots that are close to the target. This is not quite as big hairy scary as it sounds, but you need to be aware of it. I use Tordon a lot. I just use it really carefully. And I don't put it on targets that are within the main dripline of a tree I care about. Anything that you "spray" on the entire plant, is going to be more likely to leach into ground water, run off, and kill non-target pests around the rose. Painting it on the cut is going to to keep it WITHIN the target plant (or within the roots it crosses to, per my caution above) and out of the soil. You also use a smaller quantity of the pesticide, and it is not dispersed in air. Small drops, dispersed all over the place, are the worst option for pesticides *usually*. Good to know, thanks. I've heard of Tordon but never used it unless it's available in another name. Some pesky privet that kept coming back I treated the stump after a fresh cut with something I bought at Tractor Supply that did the trick, I can't remember what it was called though. |
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