I've often said coyotes never carry their tails above their backs like some dogs do. Now, I've learned to never say never, but rather say usually or rarely where coyotes are concerned. This big male with a long tail was hunting in a wheat field (short wheat) as he was working his way in to my calling. My scope, usb cable, and external battery pack were having a connection issue which resulted in the scope turning off several times. That was pretty frustrating in itself and at the shot it turned off again, so I knew I wouldn't have the kill shot because each time the Super Yoter cuts off without stopping the video first, the file is corrupted. Many thanks to Kirsch for repairing the video for me, but unfortunately, I didn't get two other scenes that I really also wanted to share. First was the coyote skydiving on a mole in the field like red fox do on mice under the snow, and the second was the coyote throwing the mole into the air playing with it and catching it again after it hit the ground. I didn't get either of those clips. The coyote died DRT at 161 yds. with the mole still in his mouth. Since the scope went black at the shot, I didn't see it, but heard the "whap" of the bullet hitting him and when I got back on my Phenom, I didn't see him running anywhere in the field. It took me several minutes to locate him in the short wheat. Still, it was a good stand even without getting the kill shot and those other scenes on video.

Glad I could help you out. Cool footage. Very odd tail on that coyote.

My Super Yoter does the same thing intermittently.  Shuts off at the shot.

I cannot figure out what the underlying issue is.  The battery compartment is closed correctly.  The TNVC cable mount has been glued in place.  All connections seem secure.  I'm not sure what else to check.

Mine shuts off too, due to using a magnetic connector on the scope. I like the protection they offer but dang it's aggravating. The planned solution is to have a friend 3D print a U-shaped protector and super glue it in place. We'll see how that works.

@BIgDAM

Mine has never turned off using internal batteries or the extended mount 16650's, but it will not allow me to run the scope with the external battery pack (usb) and have the extended battery pack as a back-up for a lost connection.

Same exact issue I have.   I typically use the extended mount batteries and have no issues.   When they get low during a hunt,  I have tried to connect my external battery using the magnetic mount  and have had it just shut off immediately,  or randomly a few minutes later.  It is frustrating,  especially when you have dogs coming in.

Is that the factory installed magnetic mount or one you purchased and installed in the usb-c port?

This is what I am using.  It comes with a magnetic usb port you stick in the scope.

https://darknightoutdoors.com/usb-magnetic-power-cord-x-short-short-medium-long-options/


Another issue I have had twice since getting the scope is when downloading video off the scope to my computer,  it will randomly stop downloading and give an error message.  I finally get them all downloaded, and think things are good.  I then get on on my next hunt, and turn the scope on, and find that the reticle is turned off.  I turn it back on, and find out that the scope has reset, and the sights are reset to 0,0.

If any of you are having issues with your Bering thermals, I would recommend contacting [email protected], as they are the authority on their own thermals.  

I can provide some insight due to my own personal experience with numerous Bering thermals and supporting lots of customers who purchased them from us over the past 4 years. One of the most common issues with Bering thermals (and actually all thermals) is the USB power port. There are people, like myself, that treat that port very carefully, but they are still using these for hunting. They get taken out of trucks, and gun cases, and get thrown over our backs when walking to coyote stands, etc and the ports get bumped. I only use 90° USB C cables due to this and that helps, and I personally never unplug the USB cable from the scope to help with wear. If your port has become damaged, the thermal needs to be sent to Bering Optics. They can replace the port you originally had, or there is an option to upgrade to a new magnetic style port. I believe there is a charge to upgrade.

Magnetic Connections: Some use magnetic cables they buy from Amazon or 3rd party dealers. I have seen lots of odd things with many magnetic connections, so I typically stay away from them. Most magnetic connections are power only and don't transfer Data. I absolutely do love Bering's new magnetic connection on their LRF scopes. It has made me a believer. Due to a deep well that surrounds the port, it doesn't come out by accident, it is super strong, and it transfers both power and data. I have had no issues at all using this new connection.  

On the non-LRF models since damaged USB ports happen more often than anyone would like, Bering is moving all their new produced scopes to a magnetic connection. The non-LRF models don't have this new body style, so Bering can't install the LRF magnetic USB, but still have a pretty good one that is better than the 3rd party options that exist. I haven't done this yet to my own SY but if I ever need to replace the port, I will make the switch. Bering has to have the scope to install this new magnetic port.

The overall issue of the scope powering down is hard to diagnose because there could be many factors causing the thermal to shut down. So, I have discussed one which is a damaged USB port. Some other common ones mentioned in the post include an issue with the external battery pack (TRB from TNVC was mentioned), and also people not getting a good connection on internal batteries by making sure the battery door hears two audible clicks, and also some CR123s have a plastic lip on the negative side that can cause connection issues.

TRB: The TRB from TNVC is a great product but there is a USB insert stick that needs to be seated deeply or it can lose connection. I have experienced this myself. This product is no longer in production, but towards the end of the product cycle I had the body mold changed to add a set screw so once the stick would stay in place, it did not move. I realized this because I used the battery pack on a different thermal scope and the power shut off on it with recoil. This allowed me to realize the problem wasn't the Bering scope but the power supply. Putting a dab of super glue where the USB stick inserts into the plastic housing fixed my problem for me and is a similar solution to the set screw that was added to the body of the TRB housing.

Extended Battery Cap Kits: There are people who have had issues with Bering thermals powering down that went to an extended battery housing, and their problems stopped. This can be because the 16650 batteries fit tighter than the cr123s, they don't have to worry about the double-click battery compartment and they are bypassing the USB port and external power, which again is the most fragile thing on the scope. Bering was skeptical of recommending them (so Night Goggles was as well) until they got more test results. However, they have been out for over 1 year. They seem to work very well and for many people solve or bypass most of the potential issues. Night Goggles will be carrying these Extended Battery Caps soon. I will post our link when they are on the website.

WiFi Issues: When WiFi is turned on, there is a major power draw that takes place. The scope checks the power supply and if it is not adequate it can power down the scope. This one is harder to nail down because a bad port can cause this and even the type of internal batteries and external battery pack, and even the type and length of cable have been known to cause this. Usually if the extender is used, the problem goes away as well. If not, then it takes a lot more in-depth research by Bering to determine what may be causing it.

I personally always use an external power supply and as many of you know, not many people have used more Bering thermals than I have. I don't have issues with mine, but I know there are some that do, so this was meant to hopefully help people with power issues.

Screen Turning Off: To add another possibility, it may not be the scope is actually turning off, but the situation could be the screen has turned off. One way to find out is once this happens, press the first two buttons closest to you at the same time. If you hear the scope NUC, this means the scope is on, but the screen is off. You may have to remove the batteries to get it to turn back on.

It was mentioned that one person loses the reticle and their zero coordinates when it shuts down. This is one I haven't heard of, but it most likely signals one of a few things. Not even selecting to "return to factory defaults" will zero out the coordinates. One thing it might be indicating is some type of power surge. I would be a bit worried about my power supply, cable, or connection. If using a magnetic connection, there could have been some type of shock that was sent to the scope, and it caused this to happen. This is one of the reasons I had stopped using magnetic connections in the past. I had frost that would happen on the magnetic surface and when connected would spark and cause thermals to lock up. The second thing that could be happening is the internal battery that keeps the settings has either gone bad or again due to a power surge didn't work properly. I have used probably 50 Bering thermals over the last 4 years, and I have not seen this happen. Even with that said, I always have the X,Y zero stored on my cell phone just in case. You should be able to put the values back in and nothing else should need to change.

I am sure DoubleUp didn't mean to turn this into the Bering power thread but since others have posted about it, I thought I would provide some additional information.  

Thanks for taking the time to share that information.

Just when you think you have them all figured out, they throw ya a curve ball. I remember when you posted about predator and non predator tail carry a while back. I thought I learned something then. Now I have learned something.