I bought a Shaw .920 barrel for my 10/22; Bentz chamber so it should be a tack driver with the Eley ammo I usually shoot. Got a Volquartsen V-block for it, torqued it down to spec, etc. The factory wood stock (it's a Ruger/Talo Light Varmint Target w/threaded barrel, which I just replaced) makes a huge amount of contact with the barrel especially towards the muzzle end, so I dug out an old Magpul 10/22 stock and installed that. Now, the barrel tray only makes contact with the very end of the forend of the stock...I can actually pull the stock down a little bit and slide a money order under it. Once it's past that rib, there's zero contact anywhere along the barrel...I can slide the money order the whole length of the barrel up and down, except at that rib. (Why a money order? Arfcom poors use dollar bills...us arfcom billionaires go to the USPS to buy a money order to test with )

I haven't been out to the range yet...I just swapped stocks around today. I COULD probably sand out the factory stock...but there's a whole lot of contact there, and it might look kind of weird if I ever put the factory barrel back on. The factory barrel isn't bad, though it did throw a few fliers...I had the Shaw barrel already, so I figured I'll see how that shoots and adjust from there.

Anyway - how big of a deal is that barrel contact? Like I said I haven't gotten it to the range yet, so no idea if it'll change things, or if it'll be fine until round 30 and the barrel warms up enough to deform things, or...?

Right now my plan is to disassemble the stock and dremel/sand out that rib that's making contact later/tomorrow...but I also don't know if the juice is worth the squeeze there?

If your intention is to free float the barrel, one mod which can help is by installing a rear tang so you have two points of contact on the receiver.  My Kidd has the tang, and my Ruger was modified to accept the Kidd rear tang.

List the take off barrel in the EE ... I know a guy looking for one (not me, I'm poor and can't afford yet another 10/22 build).

good news is some 80 grit sandpaper around the right size dowel, PVC pipe piece, or socket head (and long extension) and about 10 minutes of elbow grease will fix that right up, just sand that barrel channel out.

You might want to consider bedding around the V-block and first inch or so.  Experiment first by building up the area in the stock with aluminum tape and see what that does for you.  Also consider bedding in a take down screw pillar if you "for real" bed the V-block area (jb weld, devcon, expensive stuff from brownells, etc).  You can experiment with aluminum tape for bedding receiver as well.  I did it as a temp job long ago, and it is still going so I've not bothered making it "real".

Bad news - sometimes you do need a bit of pressure up front.  Again, easy fix - experiment with pressure pad up front by using more aluminum tape, if it works out then do it for real...or leave the tape.

Finally, strongly recommend drilling the back of the receiver so you can clean from chamber end without disassembly.

For the factory stock, the inlet is for sure too narrow for the larger barrel...for the Magpul stock, good question - I'll take the stock off and check. Should be pretty easy to check with a level. I need to rezero it anyway, so removing the scope/rail (since the rail has 20moa built into it) shouldn't be a problem.

Your link doesn’t work for me but if it is the talo 31173 the stock barrel is .920” so it should fit without contacting the for-end.

Following this closely because I would like to shadetree accurize my 10/22 but everything seems to be wishy washy not factual.

:The barrel diameter is .920.

Ruger Customer Service

Nope, 31166 - This one ...not sure why it didn't work above, fixing it now

Barrel is 850, maybe? Not 920 for sure..

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