User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/15/2024 9:40:15 PM EDT
Hey guys,
I have a new scope, mount, and rifle I'm trying to level it all. The mount has a level built into it. I put the scope in the mount and leveled them together. I place it on the rifle and the mount and scope are not level. The rifle and scope are level with each other now but the mount is off. Could it be the built in rail on the rifle that's slightly off then? The rail is a 20moa rail if that matters. I'm lost on what to do from here. Thanks all |
|
|
|
CT, USA
|
Posted: 3/15/2024 9:57:02 PM EDT
[#1]
Before I do anything, I find my perfect hold of the rifle and the scopes relief. Next, I put the rifle in a sled or use a bipod. I use playing cards as shims to level the rifle/rail/mount. I'll put some type of vertically plumb line in the foreground and align (level if you prefer) the retical to this. Fix scope properly.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2024 9:13:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Rob01]
[#2]
I would ignore any chassis/stock/base mounted level. How I do it:
1. Set ring spacing and attach rings to base and use a piece of tape to mark proper eye relief on the scope tube to the rear ring. 2. Level rifle side to side with a level on scope base. Front to back doesn't matter as long as the scope won't slide in the rings. 3. Set scope in rings and set a level on top of elevation knob 4. Put rear ring cap on scope and just use two screws so when adjusting back and forth you can watch the level 5. Slowly torque those two screws down watching level 6. When tight then install the front ring completely and then go back to the rear and loosen the two screws and install it correctly 7. Now check reticle against a plumb bob and done. Been doing it that way for many years and have shot out past a mile and in many matches and never an issue. I know everyone has different ways but that's mine and it works. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2024 9:34:49 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rob01: I would ignore any chassis/stock/base mounted level. How I do it: 1. Set ring spacing and attach rings to base and use a piece of tape to mark proper eye relief on the scope tube to the rear ring. 2. Level rifle side to side with a level on scope base. Front to back doesn't matter as long as the scope won't slide in the rings. 3. Set scope in rings and set a level on top of elevation knob 4. Put rear ring cap on scope and just use two screws so when adjusting back and forth you can watch the level 5. Slowly torque those two screws down watching level 6. When tight then install the front ring completely and then go back to the rear and loosen the two screws and install it correctly 7. Now check reticle against a plumb bob and done. Been doing it that way for many years and have shot out past a mile and in many matches and never an issue. I know everyone has different ways but that's mine and it works. So I should be GTG since my scope and rifle are the same level? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2024 9:46:55 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By starjammir: So I should be GTG since my scope and rifle are the same level? Yup should be fine. If you don't have one you can get a scope mounted level so you can be sure you are level when shooting. There are a bunch of inexpensive models out there now.  |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 5/2/2024 2:24:55 AM EDT
[#5]
One of the more frustrating aspects of getting a scope mounted properly is the scope "rolling" to the left or right while tightening down the top ring caps and screwing up its level. Using a rubber band on the front and back of the scope (around the scope and rifle) can apply enough resistance to prevent the scope from rolling to the left or right as the top ring caps are tightened down.
|
|
|
NM, USA
|
Posted: 5/3/2024 4:16:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jbmillard]
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rob01: I would ignore any chassis/stock/base mounted level. How I do it: 1. Set ring spacing and attach rings to base and use a piece of tape to mark proper eye relief on the scope tube to the rear ring. 2. Level rifle side to side with a level on scope base. Front to back doesn't matter as long as the scope won't slide in the rings. 3. Set scope in rings and set a level on top of elevation knob 4. Put rear ring cap on scope and just use two screws so when adjusting back and forth you can watch the level 5. Slowly torque those two screws down watching level 6. When tight then install the front ring completely and then go back to the rear and loosen the two screws and install it correctly 7. Now check reticle against a plumb bob and done. Been doing it that way for many years and have shot out past a mile and in many matches and never an issue. I know everyone has different ways but that's mine and it works. Not that there is anything wrong with this method, but as an alternative, I have used machinist parallels like these: Parallels [The parallels are only shown as an example - I have no idea if that branch is any good.] between the scope and base - typically between the base and the flat machined area under the turrets. This negates the need for having a level and it keeps the scope from rotating when tightening. You have to have enough space between the scope and the rail to insert the parallel. When I don't have enough room for the parallel, I use feeler gauges stacked to make sure the scope is level with the rail. After I have the scope mounted this way, I use a precision level to mount the level on the scope. I like Vortex levels. They do tend to rotate a bit when tightening so they are kind of a pain to mount. |
|
|
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
