A friend of mine's husband bought this, and friend hates it, so they're going to sell it:







That's really all I know at this point, other than it has new tires.  What's this thing worth, assuming it's in decent condition?  What to look for as far as wear items?



And does anybody have a link to a hitch insert that'll work on this thing and fit into a 2" standard receiver?



Thanks,

-Slice

That is a M105 1 1/2 ton and is a HEAVY trailer.  Dry weight is 2650lbs and is made with air brakes. Unless your going to pull it with a deuce and a half, don't plan on it towing very well with a half or 3/4 ton pick up.  If your looking to go the mil trailer route, look for a M101A1/A2 or A3.

OK, thanks.  My F250 ain't setup for air brakes...



Think I might be able to get it for about $800, though.  Might still be worth a look?



No deuce in my future, unfortunately...

I am not sure that is one of the 1.5 ton ones, landing gear looks different then mine did.

buy one of the 3/4 ton ones yourself of the gov govliquidation - 3/4 trailer indianaplois

The hitch for your 2" receiver is no big deal.  I found mine on eBay for around $49 with free shipping.  There are two kinds out there, the first is just a straight hitch, just like your average ball hitch.  The second is set up with a plate with several height settings so you can adjust it to level the trailer with your ride.

I went with the straight hitch, but am now thinking it would have been better to go with the adjustable.  My hitch is higher than my CDN M101so the trailer rides at an angle. But there is a lift in the trailer's future, so it will most likely work out in the end.  With a small trailer like mine it is no big deal, but with a larger M101 or M102, that angle could translate into loads shifting.  Just a little food for thought.

stasiman

I had a couple 1 1/2 tons for a while.... there were so many auction a couple years ago I picked up 3 for about 75 bucks a piece... the pinle hitch and adapter plate cost me more then the trailer

While a true 3/4 ton pickup could handle that okay, it seems like a mismatch. Proper tongue weight could prove difficult to maintain.

As noted, the M101 and the M1102 series trailers are more proportionally matched to a typical fullsize pickup. Looking at govliquidation.com, I see there are currently 4 M101A1 trailers coming up for auction in Indiana. Personally, I would wait for an M101A2 or A3.

What an evil woman...he needs to tell her he doesn't like her closet full of shoes and to throw them away. And then eject with his nice trailer.

All kidding aside, I'm going to agree what everyone said here, that it is a heavy, heavy trailer and a smaller one would be GTG for a 'civi' truck.

Get a 3/4 ton trailer not a 1 1/2 ton like the one you pictured.

Grove

Everyone above is correct:  It's Effin' heavy!

I pull one with a UNIMOG, but it's a six ton truck, and the airbrakes plug right in.

Get an M101.  
It has "surge" brakes that will work for you.

A heavy trailer with no brakes is a risk you do not need.

I just won a 2009 manufacture M1101 trailer that looks new in the pictures.  I hope to go pick it up as soon as my EUC clears.

It's a 1 ton, with a gross of 1400# empty.

You can get one for cheaper from Government liquidators.  And as stated above, they are heavy.
If you want one for general hauling, a 101 is better than a 1101 or 1102.
The M101A3 hasmore payload capacity than the A1 or A2.  While the 1102 has more than the 1101.
 

The M1101 and M1102 are exactly the same trailer, all the parts are identical.  The only difference between them is that one model number ends with a 1 and the other ends with a 2.

The reason for the difference in payload is because they don't want some Private connecting a heavy trailer to a truck that cannot pull it.  The designation only affects the towing vehicle, so you (if you're not in the Army) can load the M1101 to the M1102 payload.

We are not talking about in the .mil.   The data plates have the GVW on them and that is what can be legally towed over the road.





I know my A3 can handle well over it's registered weight, doesn't make it legal.  



 

My 101A2 came with a new box but no data plates. I guess someone forgot to transfer them over. Oh darn...

I love my M105. Got it from military auction for $350. New paint job. Everything on it was great. Even came with a new canvas top for it. I pull mine with a F-250 with ease. I removed the airbrakes. Removed the front landing and put on lighter more appropriate gear. Flipped the pintle receiver over to make it level with my truck. Replaced the axle and tires since it was designed to be pulled by a deuce and a half. Now has electric brakes. All in all I probably have about a total 800 invested into it. It is built like a shit brick house though.

Use that link.  "Typical" auction price stripped is @ $300.  With the covers it can go to 500.  If you DO NOT want to do the auction thing, check out steel soldiers.com, $400-600 depending on condition and covers...

The GVW weight data plate is on the M116 frame, not on the box.





 

I've got an m101a1. Pulls behind a half ton pickup no problems.



Anybody got replacement bows and canvas? Mine is starting to show its age.

Those data plates are missing, too.



The only identifier that was able to be used to obtain a SF-97 and title for the trailer was the S/N stamped into the frame. I just guessed at the approximate age to provide a year of manufacture.

I don't know for certain, but with the new box and recently serviced brakes it appears that my trailer may have been in in the middle of being rebuilt when it was declared surplus and sent to DRMO for disposal. Makes me wonder if as some M101A2s were reconditioned they were also given updated/upgraded data plates with M101A3 specs. Who knows.

Thanks guys.  That's what I was wondering.  Guess I'll pass for now...
 

Trailer are serviced at time specific intervals. A lot of trailers come to GL that were recently overhauled.  Never seen one with out tires.
My A3 had had tires with the tabs still on them and no scratches, except for the DRMO forklift marks.  New brakes that I had to adjust.
A3 boxes are different, they are wider between the wheel wells.  M116A3 frames, springs and axle are also heavier duty than an A2.
You should have skipped the Sf-97 and got plates through Maine.
Got a pic of the axle?  That will identify it.  You also have the 2nd gen trailer with the reinforcements for lifting.  It also looks like you got 105 racks in the bed.





You can get all the replacement data plates online.
 

So is the M101A1 a bad thing vs. the A2 or A3?




 

Nope.  Not at all.  I had one and it was a strong hauler.   Only disadvantage is the 5 lug split rims which use tubes.
It also doesn't have the surge brakes.
A1s can be had for cheap on Gl.  I got mine with racks, bows and tarp for $220.  I have witnessed some go for the minimum.
Looks like there are 4 in Indy on GL.  One even has an A3 landing jack on it.
 

The M101A1 uses the same oddball split rim wheels and bolt pattern, 5x6.875", as the M37 series of trucks that is not common to much else. This is not a problem if your plans include carrying a dedicated spare tire, that may or may not be readily sourced, with the trailer or swapping the axle out (hopefully for something that shares a wheel bolt pattern with whatever you are going to tow it with).

The A2 and A3 variant use wheels with a very common 8x6.5" wheel bolt pattern, the same as found on Dodge, GM and pre-1999 Ford true 3/4 and 1 ton pickups and SUVs. The obvious advantage here is sharing a common wheel bolt pattern that is interchangeable with the tow rig, commonality that makes it easier to support and maintain a single standard. Case in point, my M101A2 trailer uses wheels of the same diameter, backspacing and offset along with identical tires as does my 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD, allowing for complete interchangeability should it be necessary:



The main differences between the A2 and A3 variants is that the A3 has a box that is wider between the wheel wells, uses a wider axle and HMMWV wheels that have a lot more offset. The A3 variants are easily distuingishable by their fenders that extend beyond the sides of the cargo box to accomodate the additional track width of the wider axle. The A2s were designed to be towed by Dodge and GM militarized commercial pickups and the A3s were designed to be towed by HMMWVs. In my own very general opinion, A2 variants would probably be a better match for older trucks that used wheels with little offset and the A3 variants would tend to be better paired with newer trucks where the trend has been towards wheels with greater offset. This obviously does not apply if your tow vehicle utilizes wheels with a 5, 6 or 7 lug bolt pattern or you drive a 1999 or later Ford 3/4 or 1 ton with the 8x170mm bolt pattern wheels. You'll be looking at carrying a dedicated spare for the trailer or, if you want to to share a common wheel between tow rig and trailer, using wheel adapters or swapping the axle.

Google search for the hitch you need

scanned through and didn't see a link to the hitches