Fuel injection retrofit.

Tbi from JY parts so u can use east to get (and replace ) GM parts

I've always thought those look good with a lift and larger wheels/tires.

Me too. I've wanted one for the longest time.

I'd add better tires, a top and maybe some weight in the bed.

NO

There's only about a billion so lifted redneck mobiles around still. Mostly driven by hillbillys who can't afford or figure out anything made after 1988

Clean unmolested trucks like the OP has are what stands out. Turning it into a proto bro dozer is actually making it like every other 4x4 of the era.

The tires that are on the vehicle (guessing a current pic) are severe snow rated (Mtn/Snowfalke symbol should be on the sidewall)

I would run it as it is, Maybe a Edelbrock carb if it has a quadajunk. I like those trucks as they where basic and simple. Perhaps a rear locker conversion and redo the u-joints and other weak points on a older truck.

Throw away the 2 piece rear shaft.

EFI conversion if you want to get away from carbs

Hei became standard in 74

Change the owner's name on the title to "pointblanke"

K20 has a one piece.

a good limited slip or locker. Also an efi conversion or at least a electric fuel pump. Aux fuel tank for those just in case, moments. Personally id also ditch the vinyl seat because I hate them.

I'd put in a block heater and upgrade the ignition with an MSD, or at least a high output coil and change all the gear oil in the trans, transfer case and diffs to full synthetic.  

I don't think I'd go EFI.  I used to have a 95 Cherokee and a 79 Wagoneer.  If got below about -20 the newer Jeep with EFI wouldn't start.  It would turn over fine, but it wouldn't fire.  I could always pump the gas a few times on the old carbed Waggy and it would start.   I had another car I upgraded with an MSD box and high output coil that would always start immediately even at -20 and I never even hooked up the choke.

You will notice a huge change with synthetic in the transmission when it's cold.  It won't feel like molasses when it's cold and mileage will improve a bunch.

Modest lift so you can fit 35s.

Hydroboost

Those are Dura-Tracs, they're pretty damn good in the ice and snow till they're about 80% worn.
EFI conversion would be nice, non-quadrajet carb and a decent manifold will pick up a horse or two and possibly some mileage. Check the framerail around the steering box, think about reinforcing/bracing it. Electric fans free up power, boost mileage, and allow it to warm up faster.
Relocating the heater hose from the radiator to the water pump, or maybe it was the thermostat housing?, I did it to mine but sold it over a decade ago, will make the heater work better, as will insulating the heater hoses. Block heater and pan heater aid starting and cut down on wear.
Saddle blanket seat cover, vinyl blows.
Driving lights, and probably re-wire the headlights, GM is notorious for running them thru the switch and using small wire that holds back their potential.
Lockers make them nearly unstoppable, tire chains help when you reach the lockers limit. Lifts are only nice if you want to seriously off-road, they're kinda a hassle on a daily driver.

What's your budget?

Arkansas problems.

CHANGE? R U kidding ?...look what change did in the white haus  

Really dood, that is a very nice truck! I have the same truck retired to plow service 10 years ago and the thing is incredible...tough as nails and dependable.

If that were my truck I would upgrade the tires, fix the body, hang a bigass cow catcher on the front to facilitate grilled venison, and drive the snot outta it!  

A few inches of lift.
35's on after market steel wheels
TBI
Twin stick the 205
Detroit or Lincoln lock the 14 bolt and maybe put a limited slip up front

crossover steering

Awesome truck. Put a lift on it. As a side note this Texas boy would die in -11 weather . Stay warm buddy.

I can't help it if your automotive tastes are stuck in mid 90's redneck land. There isn't a single fucking thing this truck will do better with a lift and IMO this entire gay ass fad where EVERY 4x4 needs a lift kit and "rims" purely for liftings sake is getting pretty damn played out.

Re radio


Rather than chop up the dash to install a din unit just get a factory am/fm for the radio and single dash speaker. Then install a cheap ass amp and enclosed speakers behind the seat playing pandora or mp3's directly from your smartphone.

Twin stick gives you front wheel drive which is very handy to have off road.

Disconnect the rear diff, point the front tires where you want to go, smash the gas, and make hella tight turns.

Bonus points if your parking brake works

How about a chrome roll bar and some kc lights. Would that give you an aneurysm???

I'd paint that tan center brown to match the rest of the truck.

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Go through the brakes and brake lines. Any metal lines that look brittle or rusty should be replaced, the rubber lines should be replaced and the fluid should be flushed. My 78 3/4 ton Chevy needed all of that done before it would stop well. My gas tank was starting to rust so I replaced it with an aftermarket version. The motor mounts and trans mount needed replacing right before the small block finally blew up. It's been parked since 2009 and someday I'll transfer the axles/lift/tires over to my 86 K5 blazer.

Nice looking truck for it's age! I love that old body style, I've owned a few myself.  

I drove a 76 GMC K25 Sierra Grande everyday for 15 yrs (bought it new in 76), then used it strictly for snowplowing and getting back in the woods to hunt for another 15 yrs, before it finally died. I replaced it with an 84 Chevy K25... just plowed my driveway with it a few hours ago. Both trucks are 350CI carbeurated & auto trans - 76 had a TH350 tranny, 84 has a TH400 - & both have New Process 203 transfer cases. Gas mileage sucked.

1st thing I'd get done is an engine block heater. The kind that replace a freeze plug in the block are much better than the type that go in the lower radiator hose. Given where you live, I'd consider that a priority. Really helps with the cold weather starts.

A big issue with those trucks was U-joints... especially the CV joint in the front driveshaft. My 76 had a 4" lift, and that increased the angle, so it wore much quicker. The u-joints by each front wheel on the front axle wear out quickly too, as there's no way to lube them. They'll start to squeel when they go bad... cut your wheels all the way left, then all the way right, and back up slowly, then pull forward slowly, with wheels in each direction, and listen. If you hear any squeeling noise, replace them. They're not expensive, and if your mechanical enough, not too difficult to do yourself. I did them so often, I had it down to less than an hour per side.

On the 76, I put a new carb on it when I drove it everyday. I used a Holley,"Economaster" I think it was called... it's been almost 25 years. I went from 10 mpg to 12, and the electrically heated choke control was a big improvement over the older 'heated from exhaust manifold' system. Those old trucks didn't have any of the emissions stuff used today, no sensors, no cat converters... so I put headers and dual exhaust on the 76, not for more HP, but for more mileage. Gained another mpg.

I bought the 84 (below) in 2008. Previous owner had "flat-bedded" it, and shortened the frame by about 16" at the rear. It needed a power steering pump and hoses, mufflers, battery, plow control solenoid, and 2 pieces of brake line going to rear wheels. So I got it cheap... $400, including the 7.5' Western plow and the $100+ value strobe warning light.   If I drove it everyday, it'd need a lot more work... shocks are gone, speedometer is broke, windshield washers don't work, leaks a little oil & gas (at highway speeds only). But as I only snowplow my driveway and haul firewood with it, it's good enough as is.

'84 GMC   496 bbc  corporate 14 full float, 4" lift, positive front springs, hd shackles, 4.10 gears, etc etc  

After me and my brother drove it in high school it set in a field for nearly 10 years.  ive got 9k in the truck repairs and upgrades minus the motor. It has nickled and dimed me to death.

I recommend shackles from off road design   check out their other stuff.  

Properly selected springs/shocks are not necessarily "for liftings sake".  Larger tires and proper springs/shocks will definitely improve the trucks capability both on road and off.

If I was going to drive the truck for any length of time I'd seriously consider an NV4500 5spd trans in order to get an overdrive.  The T-18 4spd in my CJ-7 with 4.10 R&P and 33" tires is enough to drive me batty.