Yeah, copy that, with them being a 38” over OEM 37” I’m not that worried, plus it’s entirely possible the OEMs are actually taller than these - just something I’ve picked up on over the years of wheeling, sort of like boats…advertised size can be plus or minus. I looked underneath for rubbing in case the previous owner did any wheeling and I don’t see any rubbing yet. My main concern is the wheel offset of these over OEM when it comes to compression, but yeah, something to watch. Got a source for a good skid plate or did you build your own?

100 pages!

And almost 8 years later.

Update on work on the truck. Work had been delayed a bit because of some insane hours at work needed but, I'm getting back into it now.

Before work got in the way, got the Wicked Wheel is in the the turbo. Painted the exhaust side of the turbo with some Rustoleum high heat ceramic paint. It's still out of the truck.

Turning up the injection pump, I decided to use the "from the top" method because it was supposed to be easier than trying to get to the side access, which I had done on my 6.2. It was not easier. When trying to get the top back on, the governor linkage spring popped the linkage and something ended up out of position to where I can't get it set where everything belongs for some reason. Spent a good while pouring over the Stanadyne manual with no clear understanding on where things go. Decided to get on eBay and pick up a salvage one from Beltfed so I could pick it apart on my bench. Aguas kindly offered me his working but leaking pump. I'm waiting to get a hold of it before going further on that.

So with that part on hold I decided to get started on the Fluidampr and Leroy Diesel pulley install. I had just gotten the factory pulley off when work blew up.

In doing some research on the harmonic balancer replacement, I found that most of the puller/installer kits, except one expensive one, lack the bolt the crankshaft is threaded for to allow you to push the new one on. The exception being this one where the puller bolt is the correct size and will thread into the crank, letting you push it on with it.

It works great pulling the balancer off but lacks the bolts to thread into the balancer. Unfortunately, the factory ones are really too long if you leave the cooling stack in place. The bolts that Leroy Diesel sells with the pulley are a good bit shorter though and work great.

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As mentioned, the puller bolt works to push the Fluidampr on. Just use the washer from the mounting bolt under the main puller piece. I found that a 3/8 socket fits perfectly into the slots and lets you rotate it to push the Fluidampr on.

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A length of chain bolted to both factory balancer and Fluidamper, wrapped around the stabilizer bar keeps the engine from rotating during removal and installation.

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Once you get the Fluidampr most all of the way on, you can put the factory bolt and washer back on to finish it and torque it to 200 ft lbs.

It's extremely close but it turns freely without rubbing.

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The Fluidampr includes a spacer but unless mine is still on there, you don't need it. It doesn't mention it in the instructions for the H1 application but does on the other 6.5 applications. I verified the flange depth is the same on both factory balancer and Fluidamper.

Moving on to the Leroy Diesel pulley, I found that you need the factory spacer that sits between the harmonic balancer and pulley. Without it, you can immediately see the pulley is out of alignment with the rest. The pulley bolts Leroy Diesel sells with their pulley are too short to work with this spacer as it turns out but, since they work with the puller, I'll toss them in that kit.

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However, this is where we run into a problem... Using the factory bolts, they are too long and bottom out just a hair before securing the pulley in place. Since I've got a tap and die set with the M10x1.5, I'm just going to trim the factory ones, clean the threads up, and reuse them. Otherwise, some bolts about 5mm shorter would probably work perfectly. The factory ones are 10x1.5-90. I'm going to trim them 5mm first and go from there.

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The Benglas are playing now so I had to wrap and on call week at work is next week so, not sure how much progress I'll make.

The local Veteran's Day parade wanted the HMMWV and told me I would have two WWII vets in the back seats.  Cool, I'll be there.

So I get to the staging area this morning and discovered my County Sheriffs have an MRAP?  Sleepy little county with a SWAT team, an armored HMMWV (they didn't bring it because it's broke) and this giant MRAP?  

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So the parade people inform me they want me to carry three WWII vets and one of the wives, and that they're the parade Grand Marshals.  

OK, but I only have three seats, so they put one of the vets in the vehicle behind me.  I was sorta the lead vehicle.  The County firetruck was lead, then the Marine Color Guard, then me.

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Great showing, looks like a fun parade. The first time I rode an MRAP after years of HMMWV it was like a spaceship. Pneumatic doors, reasonably comfy seats, air conditioning. They like to tip right over into the ditch though.

Badass!

I have pictures of my 6x6 MRAP that collapsed a dirt road and fell into a canal somewhere. I'll try to find em.

Video someone posted:

Looks like a great time!

Who was the second HMMWV with all the flashing lights?

Reminds me, I've got a Code 3 Mastercom siren from an old work van (was used for lighting control) I need to get put in my truck for parade use. Plus the electronic air horn is a lot better than the "tactical" horn.

It was a late teen early 20s kid driving his dad's made-over military HMMWV.  I had to look twice believing it was an H1.  

Running a siren is much easier than running air for an air horn.

I actually did too.

The slantback with the windows was what did it. That's how the H1 factory (and aftermarket before the factory did it) one looked.

OK, had to make it on page 100!

Haven't done a whole lot of work on the truck.  But I did help out on a 240 mile endurance run with providing comms for an aid station.  It's always a kick in the seat to take it out and do things with the truck even if it is only running through the desert.

I finally took a page from some of you guys (Ryan et.al.) and swapped out my mil tires and wheels for civilian.  I had a bad shaking going on from about 40 mph thru 50 that I just couldn't get rid of.  balancing (multiple methods), alignments and more just couldn't make it go away.  The Dealer I got the tires and wheels from said he was surprised it wasn't worse than it was.  He told me the military MT's I had were just not designed to go fast (40+).  The drive to the race was going to be 10 hours one way and I just knew I wasn't going to be able to mentally handle the shaking for that long.  So new shoes and they ride great.  I really wanted to keep things as original as I could but, ride quality is more important for my mental health, especially since it isn't actually a show truck.

I have a fair leak on the seal of my harmonic balancer shaft too.  When I saw this post it gave me one of those "I need to do that too" moments and then I realized how cold it is outside now and it quickly passed..

So congrats on the 100 Ryan.

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Awesome and thanks! What tires you end up going with? Clearly Black Rhino wheels.

Jake had sent me this several days ago. Maybe this is is an option for folks that need to keep the military wheels/tires to look into.

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I'm positive the issue with my military tires is they were flat spotted on account of the lack of anti-lock brakes on these trucks. I had come across this method when I was exploring options and never did find anyone that does it locally. If I had, it would be interesting to see what change if any it would have made.

ETA: They appear to be using a TSI 405W

The tires are DELIUM Terra Raiders.  I had never heard of or seen ones like them and asked about tires like what you had and others that I researched, but he had these in stock and they had all the features I was looking for.  But one little detail that caught my attention and I really liked was they have a tiny tread pattern in the spaces between the lugs of the overall tread pattern.  I though that was cool and just went with them.  I figured it's a local dealer and if I have issues I can talk directly with them.  The price was good too.  I paid $2900 for everything and I was willing to go to $4,000 to get it done.

The tire trimming looks interesting, but I think if I had that done on my current set, there wouldn't be much left of the tread!!

I had the stainless steel standoffs for installing the GMV Skid Plates reverse engineered:
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The GMV Skid Plates mount by the 4 each 3/8-16 x 1.5" Gr8 bolts through the footwell 10mm armor plate, the 4 each 1/4-20x1" bolts for the floor insulation retainer strip, and 3 each 3/8-16x 0.75" Grade 8 bolts through the skids up into the rear floor reinforcement hat channel brackets and holes in the rear footwells:
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@stoner63a are the standoff shipping out this week?  Also, do you have the installation instructions/manual for the GMV Inverter that goes on the side of the radio tray, I am trying to figure out how to wire mine up?

The machinist did a run of 46 from a 1.5" hex 316SS drop he had.

There are 3 more sets asking to be ordered, so he is checking into buying more bar stock.
 They were $25.65 each ($25 each plus fraction of the shipping for 46 pieces from the Machinist to me) plus shipping to each individual, I went with USPS Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Boxes.  
 

To the very best of my knowledge, the InfiniD Inverter/Power Distribution Box on the driver's side radio enclosure, you run the 12V+, 24V+ and Ground (-) through the main battery box, under the plastic battery tray, out the hole into the side compartment, fastened to a Square D Class 9080 Type LBA363206 Power Distribution Terminal Block bolted to the battery compartment back wall, which has cables run to the rear battery, the main ground and the main positive terminal block on the battery compartment wall.
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If you have a Dimensions 24VDC (or 12VDC) to 120VAC Inverter mounted to your curb side rear passenger ceiling, it also runs cables to the Square D LBA363206 3x Terminal Block with a 250amp AML fuse on a Buss 3476 Fuse Block bolted to the side battery compartment bottom.
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This is an awesome and expensive thread. It caused me to end up with two hmmwv. One is finished and the other I am just starting to work on.
It is an 1114 but has a few issues I thought folks here may be able to assist in the troubleshooting.
Issue one: two injectors are pissing fuel. Here is a screen capture.   Attached File

Is this a loose injector or should I replace it? Comments on remove-replace injectors on a 6.5 turbo.

It's kind of hard to tell from that still. Are you able to upload the clip to YouTube? It looks like a steady stream of fuel though.

Unless it's coming from the supply line connection or the return line connection, it's probably going to need replaced. I had one that was leaking on the body where the halves go together. Just swapped it.

If you decide to replace them all, the marine 6.5 injectors are a popular replacement.

I forget what size socket works on them but, there is a specific injector socket that's preferable to use so you don't possibly damage the return line nipples with a standard one. If you don't want to buy one (they're $40-$60) I've got a couple and wouldn't mind lending one if you wanted to pay shipping both ways.

Thanks Ryan, yes, it is a steady stream. accuratediesel has injectors. they also have the socket, and they have a washer, return line kit. Should I get new return lines and washers as well?

Yeah I knew I forgot to mention something.

If you're doing injectors, may as well do new return lines.

30 day bump. Anybody doing anything new this year with their HMMWV?

I changed the oil (A service) in my H1 , does that count?

Hopefully getting mine running. I have to install the radiator, oil cooler and change all the fluids in mine. 2023 was a bit more hectic than we planned when I bought mine.

I really like those wheels - they look very nice!!

I finally got my Texas License Plates and Registration Sticker yesterday so I'm all street-legal now!

Anyone here use a back up camera? Thinking of adding that next.

Before the negative degree temperatures started, I bought a backup camera/dashcam setup but haven't installed it yet.  I have the same model on a different vehicle and it works very well.  Basically the "mirror" becomes a screen that shows what the cameras show while recording the drive as well, from both the front and rear.  

I hooked up a cheap amazon one to the license plate. Makes backing up way easier with the slantback.

Hopefully I'll have the power steering system bled sometime this week.  I have been trying to fix that system since I bought the truck... I don't know... 8 years ago?  It had an intermittent whine that I couldn't get rid of.  Tried bleeding all kinds of ways.

Finally replaced the power steering pump when I could no longer turn the wheel.  But even the new one sucks.  I'm about to make a "window" that I can plumb into some of the hoses to get an idea of where bubbles might be coming from.

Also, the OP Ryan_Ruck is now banned, so the help he had in this thread is no longer here.

100% can verify that arfcom is moderated by, and largely for, weasels.

Banned?!  Why?

He poked the resident EverTrumpers one too many times hahaha.

Changed out the injector and return lines using the TM manual.  Fired it up and no leaks. Thanks all for the tips.

That is crap. We have lost, and are loosing valuable folks who provide the knowledge we folks come to this site for.
This whole site is slowly loosing interesting communicators and being replaced by pithy one liners.

And commonly used "this" memes.

I'm just putting this sentence here so the response is longer than one line.

Correct and there is not really another platform that offers the ability to go back and look in the thread easily. Unfortunately, the mods are ruining this place vs what it use to be where you could voice your opinions and your point of view and the other person not get upset with hurt feelings as it was just in general discussion. Of course we may all get a warning for this being in a tech forum.

But on topic how hard was it changing the injectors and return lines? Did you do the pump too?

I bought the injector socket which made it easy. The challenge was getting to the injector and getting a torque wrench in there. But my kid has smaller hands so not bad.
The pump is working so left it alone.
My steering is difficult and hard to turn when the vehicle is not moving.  Is this a common thing on 11series vehicles?

Depends on your definition of hard to turn.

My M1165 is one-handed steering without much exertion.  I wouldn't call it hard, but it's a little harder than my M1009.

I realize it's not an 11 series the same way as an 1165 or 1152, but my M1123  is a one finger steering vehicle, very overboosted steering rack. So I would say it's worth looking into.

Ok, thanks.
That is now my next project after it warms up.

That is a real shame.  I've owned several Mil Vehicles and have considered getting back in on a Humvee.  Ryan_Ruck was a great source of knowledge in this thread.

Bigger_Hammer

Semi relevant but thought some of you might find this interesting.

Very cool - I've seen that, I do like it - please let me know how you like it once you get it installed. The one thing about that setup - I currently don't have a traditional rearview mirror mounted up (yet) and I don't know if I will...have been leaning towards a monitor / screen setup that I may mount below the windshield, left side of the dog box...trying to figure out what would work best for my situation.

I'm thinking of a setup like that...or one that one of the HMMWV supply houses has....this one:
https://www.federalmilitaryparts.com/products/humvee-backup-camera-24v-m998-hmmwv?

@stoner63a I finally received my 3 bay ammo can holder and turret mount. Was wondering if you had a link to the brush, retainer, and the two correct pins to hold the 3 bay to the turret tray?

I'm still having a hell of a time bleeding my power steering system on the M1123.  I replaced the pump a while ago and air was still somehow getting in the lines.

I have now replaced every hose and hose clamp and gone over little things that might introduce air, like the sight glass on the reservoir or the bleeder screw by the cadillac valve.  The line running from the cadillac valve to the power steering cooler radiator was also higher than the elevation of the fluid level in the reservoir, so I zip tied it so it was lower hoping that air would always try to make its way to the highest point.

Just got finished buttoning everything up together and hopefully it'll finally be better.

If it's not, I'm starting to think I'll have to break apart the steering gear and reseal possibly just the upper part.  Or maybe the radiator is cracked.  Last time I bled it I finally heard just the sound of the engine instead of power steering whine.  But then the next morning air had gotten into the system again.

The brush is made from COTS 1 1/16" x 5/16" clear anodized aluminum extrusion with 2" black brush exposed.    Order a 4 foot section similar to this Amazon link:
Heavy Duty Clear Anodized Brush Door Sweep for Gaps Up to 1.5inches

Note: this brush stock above may have holes pre drilled that may not line up with the factory holes on the turret mount. If you google 2" door sweep brush you can find direct sites that sell footage not pre-drilled.

Measure the back width, add 2x the thickness of the flat aluminum flange, mark the U channel the brush inserts into, slit it with a hacksaw then bend 90 degrees.   Clamp in place, mark your original bolt holes from the inside.    I think its 1/4"-20x 5/8" or 3/4" yellow zinc or black oxided hex bolt that mounts the brush on the MSG QR base bracket.

He really is a great source of information on HMMWV's. I saw this coming and even pm'd him some months back that he was flying to close to the sun in GD. Regardless of where you fall on a given issue, the way the moderation has been going the last few years, it was only a matter of time. Hopefully, he's able to get back somehow.

Tis a shame.  If not for ryan id have never stuffed the ECV drivetrain into my 998a1.  Or known how to get real carc paint.  Or who knows how many other little things.  

People like him can be found at a certain telegram group….


….that isnt moderated by today’s arfcom jackboots.  

https://t.me/+KhyaExfStcc2NzQx

See if that works.  

Anyone have any leads on armored windshields? That's one project I would like to complete.

Well, finally broke the rust on the oil cooler port yesterday.

Now I'll be able to get the radiator and new oil cooler installed as soon as I get a break with work.