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Posted: 5/16/2012 8:54:14 AM EDT
[#1]
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix.
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Posted: 5/16/2012 8:57:52 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix. yep, but my hesitation is this method is this: 1) the pipe basically goes up against the drywall on two sides (inside stud bay), ..so can't really get full coupling w/ any thickness around the OD.. 2) cutting and re-coupling means introducing a major penetration (the cut), and having to patch it up in a non-ideal conditions, being inside a finished wall... |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 9:10:05 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix. yep, but my hesitation is this method is this: 1) the pipe basically goes up against the drywall on two sides (inside stud bay), ..so can't really get full coupling w/ any thickness around the OD.. 2) cutting and re-coupling means introducing a major penetration (the cut), and having to patch it up in a non-ideal conditions, being inside a finished wall... sorry for the confusion. When i say cut it in half, i mean the coupler. glue it to the side of the pipe like a clamshell bandaid. secure the coupler half while the glue sets and you will be fine. PVC drain pipes do not hold any pressure, so all you have to do is seal the hole to prevent leaks. You are not holding back any pressure so there is no chance of blowing the patch off. with a 1/2 to 3/4" hole this method works wonderfully. |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 9:52:07 AM EDT
[#4]
OP, just curious, does this DWV line service a second-story connection somewhere? Or is it just the vent line? If it's the latter, I'd shoot a bit of silicone or polyurethane caulk in the hole and call it done. I mean, if it's nothing more than fart vapor going through the pipe, why make it difficult?
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Posted: 5/16/2012 10:19:02 AM EDT
[#5]
If it's a vent pipe, put a screw in it.
If it's a shit stack, put a short screw in it + silicone. |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 10:33:05 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix. yep, but my hesitation is this method is this: 1) the pipe basically goes up against the drywall on two sides (inside stud bay), ..so can't really get full coupling w/ any thickness around the OD.. 2) cutting and re-coupling means introducing a major penetration (the cut), and having to patch it up in a non-ideal conditions, being inside a finished wall... sorry for the confusion. When i say cut it in half, i mean the coupler. glue it to the side of the pipe like a clamshell bandaid. secure the coupler half while the glue sets and you will be fine. PVC drain pipes do not hold any pressure, so all you have to do is seal the hole to prevent leaks. You are not holding back any pressure so there is no chance of blowing the patch off. with a 1/2 to 3/4" hole this method works wonderfully. Best approach IMHO. 
(I'm a licensed Public Utilities Contractor in NC (water, sewer, gas lines) BTW.) Good luck. |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 10:49:59 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix. yep, but my hesitation is this method is this: 1) the pipe basically goes up against the drywall on two sides (inside stud bay), ..so can't really get full coupling w/ any thickness around the OD.. 2) cutting and re-coupling means introducing a major penetration (the cut), and having to patch it up in a non-ideal conditions, being inside a finished wall... sorry for the confusion. When i say cut it in half, i mean the coupler. glue it to the side of the pipe like a clamshell bandaid. secure the coupler half while the glue sets and you will be fine. PVC drain pipes do not hold any pressure, so all you have to do is seal the hole to prevent leaks. You are not holding back any pressure so there is no chance of blowing the patch off. with a 1/2 to 3/4" hole this method works wonderfully. this sounds like a good solution use PVC Cement to do this and you can use a zip tie to hold the piece until it is dry |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 11:31:25 AM EDT
[#8]
I once ran a screw through a sanitary pvc vent (probably 2") when installing some cabinets. After I made sure I hit it (noticed plastic on screw), I dapped some NP1 on the screw and put it back. I haven't smelled any farts in the wall so I assume I'm good.
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Posted: 5/16/2012 12:02:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
OP, just curious, does this DWV line service a second-story connection somewhere? Or is it just the vent line? If it's the latter, I'd shoot a bit of silicone or polyurethane caulk in the hole and call it done. I mean, if it's nothing more than fart vapor going through the pipe, why make it difficult? yes the penetration is on the first floor, ..but i believe it is a vertical run that services the second floor, ...i think drain/waste because when i turn something on upstairs i can hear water running down the pipe... |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 12:05:52 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix. yep, but my hesitation is this method is this: 1) the pipe basically goes up against the drywall on two sides (inside stud bay), ..so can't really get full coupling w/ any thickness around the OD.. 2) cutting and re-coupling means introducing a major penetration (the cut), and having to patch it up in a non-ideal conditions, being inside a finished wall... sorry for the confusion. When i say cut it in half, i mean the coupler. glue it to the side of the pipe like a clamshell bandaid. secure the coupler half while the glue sets and you will be fine. PVC drain pipes do not hold any pressure, so all you have to do is seal the hole to prevent leaks. You are not holding back any pressure so there is no chance of blowing the patch off. with a 1/2 to 3/4" hole this method works wonderfully. yes, i have read this method on other forums, ...and it seems like a pretty good idea... i cut an annular patch like this out of scrap pipe, same size/diameter as the pipe in question, ...it kinda "snaps" into place... this was my original plan of attack, but someone on another forum gave me some doubts (since i'm going to patch the wall back up, it'll never be easy to check on it years down the road)... they said fernco makes good stuff, ..and i ran across a fernco patch (pow-r-patch) product that looks easy enough to use, ...i just hope it's acceptable as a permanent fix. |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 5:46:52 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix. yep, but my hesitation is this method is this: 1) the pipe basically goes up against the drywall on two sides (inside stud bay), ..so can't really get full coupling w/ any thickness around the OD.. 2) cutting and re-coupling means introducing a major penetration (the cut), and having to patch it up in a non-ideal conditions, being inside a finished wall... sorry for the confusion. When i say cut it in half, i mean the coupler. glue it to the side of the pipe like a clamshell bandaid. secure the coupler half while the glue sets and you will be fine. PVC drain pipes do not hold any pressure, so all you have to do is seal the hole to prevent leaks. You are not holding back any pressure so there is no chance of blowing the patch off. with a 1/2 to 3/4" hole this method works wonderfully. Even easier use a repair coupling that has no rib and cut more than half, like 60/40 so the repair actually snaps in place |
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Posted: 5/17/2012 7:13:50 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Take a 3" PVC coupler, cut it in half, sand down the internal rib and PVC glue it over the hole. permanent fix. yep, but my hesitation is this method is this: 1) the pipe basically goes up against the drywall on two sides (inside stud bay), ..so can't really get full coupling w/ any thickness around the OD.. 2) cutting and re-coupling means introducing a major penetration (the cut), and having to patch it up in a non-ideal conditions, being inside a finished wall... sorry for the confusion. When i say cut it in half, i mean the coupler. glue it to the side of the pipe like a clamshell bandaid. secure the coupler half while the glue sets and you will be fine. PVC drain pipes do not hold any pressure, so all you have to do is seal the hole to prevent leaks. You are not holding back any pressure so there is no chance of blowing the patch off. with a 1/2 to 3/4" hole this method works wonderfully. Even easier use a repair coupling that has no rib and cut more than half, like 60/40 so the repair actually snaps in place I would do this, and if your really worried get some large hose clamps and put them on also, then forget about it. |
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Posted: 5/18/2012 5:04:49 PM EDT
[#13]
If it is a round hole get National Pipe Tap for that size hole or drill it large to fit 1/8 1/4 3/8 or 1/2" tap and plug
plastic or brass plug or A swimming pool winterizing plug
Good Luck |
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Posted: 5/19/2012 10:15:52 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
If it is a round hole get National Pipe Tap for that size hole or drill it large to fit 1/8 1/4 3/8 or 1/2" tap and plug plastic or brass plug or A swimming pool winterizing plug
http://www.poolcenter.com/ff1000-00-freeze-plug-half-inch-pipe.jpg Good Luck hmm, that looks like a pretty easy fix, ...didn't see this at the h/w store / home centers.. |
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Posted: 5/19/2012 10:16:48 AM EDT
[#15]
ok, i got my pow-r-patch kit, ..should be ready to give it a try... also have a rubber fernco coupling if i feel i need added insurance..
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Posted: 5/29/2012 7:27:44 AM EDT
[#16]
update:
put the pow-r-patch product on last week.. http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/pow-r-repair/pow-r-patch i leaned toward this because (1) made by fernco, and folks seem to have high marks for that manuf, (2) low-profile meant i could apply and patch drywall back w/out interference since this side of the pipe's OD is basically up against the inner wall of drywall (a coupling of any type would've posed clearance problems w/ drywall.... the stuff smells awful when the epoxy components are mixed! it does come in a nice little packet so you do the mixing of the epoxy and the mesh patch inside the provided package... downside is the smell, and it's very gooey, and after you put it on difficult to make adjustment to... turns yellow and gives off heat as it cures... anyway, hopefully this is "good enough", and i won't regret this fix... 
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