I have inherited 5 wood planes of various sizes.   What is the best way to store them?   How about hand saws.   What is a good way to store them?

Keep a light coating of oil on the metal parts.

For the handplanes if you use them then a rack like this.  Just make the lip larger.



if they're more for display purposes 


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I'm hoping to build a few wooden hand planes this winter.  Planning on using some 8/4 European Beech that's been drying in my garage for about a year.  Might try to make a few different size Krenov's as well.  Of course I first have to finish my bandsaw build .  But once I do I plan on building a storage rack like the first pic (vert and on an angle.)

In California, open shelves are an invitation to damage during even small earthquakes.

I store mine in drawers, laid over on their sides.  That way the blade is not exposed and rubbing the shelf.  I put thin blocks of wood between the sole plates to prevent contact.

Sheets or pieces of anti-rust paper helps. Periodic oiling helps, just like your dies but don't use silicone oil (Rem Oil, etc).

Saws hang flat against the inside of my cabinet doors.  Small back saws get stacked side-by-side with handles vertical - teeth covered in plastic protectors.

I like the cabinets.    My work bench bottoms are open.   Doors might not be a bad idea.

Exposed storage will also promote rust, the worst enemy of the body and the blade.

And you must like playing with blade depth.
Storing a hand plane on a flat surface with the blade exposed is a great way to dull them from the daily vibration of sitting on the blade edge.

You ain't kidding!  

For the serious woodworkers, hand planes get laid on their side if it has a blade or on a raised rack that keeps the bald off the surface.  No exception to the rule.  Ever.  Walking on a floor around apiece on the bench can ruin a blade if its touching anything.  For the average DIY'er and general carpenters/framers though, I doubt they care.

As for the handsaws, again the serious woodworkers would hang them or build a rack that holds them by their back, keeping any pressure off the teeth in the blades.  For the average DIY'er and general carpenters/framers though, I doubt they care.

This is one of the response reasons hand plane use often frustrates so many.

The blades need to be razor sharp to work as designed.

If it will not shave hair off your arm it is dull.

Pics of planes?

I store mine sole-down on a wooden shelf.  Laying them on their side can throw them out of adjustment and leaves the blade exposed to be damaged.  Blade-down on a wood surface won't dull the blade at all.  If using the blade to plane wood takes significant time to dull it, why would just having it touch wood dull it any noticeable amount? Try it.

https://paulsellers.com/2014/08/planes-aside-a-different-angle/

The normal vibration of the blade body against the shelf will wear on the blade.

If they get out of adjustment on their side something is not correctly tightened.

I place them so the blade faces the wall when they are on their side.
Nothing is going to touch the blade unti the plane is picked up and used.

And yes.  Using them dulls the blade.  Some woods are particularly bad.

Any of the few woods that deposit silica in the cell walls.

After fitting up a full size interior door (do the hinge face last since it shows the least) the plane will need at least a little touch up before starting on the next door.

Ditto!

If you don't raise the plane blade off the surface by sitting it on a toe block or both a tow and hell block, you are screwing up your perfectly sharpened blade, assuming you did such.  

Wood moves with moisture. That plane blade sitting down will not move at the same rate at as the wood below.  That blade will "dig" unevenly into the wood and over time.  It wears the blade and create burrs.  It also damages the surface you laid it on.  At the same time, there are moisture and silica that ends up on the blade.  And that is assuming you are in a place that has no vibrations, which is impossible.  Add in normal earth movement and vibrations, and you have more activity.

You want air touching your blade unless you are cutting.  

Mr. Sellers is more worried about protecting the plane and shop safety.  Is he worried about protecting his table saw blade?  Yes- and he protects that by not putting anything on top of it or near the blade.  Same with a plane.

Unless you remove or raise the blade each time you store it, side storage, a toe block or a heel & toe block is how you store a plane as a woodworker.

To each his own.  I'm just glad folks are still using these great old tools.  

Really though, vibrations of the earth making your plane go dull?  

Vibrations of the wall the shelf is mounted onto.

I still remember all the things that moved around in my 1934 house when a jack hammer was used to break up basement slab pieces to run new drain lines.

Two score lines about a few inches deep to limit cracks running and mark the path.

Between them still had to be broken out in manageable pieces.

Things on nearly every shelf in the house moved around.

Not everyone lives in the country.

Those in California can tell you the movement, as can anyone in a metropolitan area who has large trucks, airplanes, helicopters, etc... that cause vibrations.  

That blade bouncing up and down on a surface, combined with the natural wood movement under it, wears down a blade.   So you can sharpen it up, set it aside, and come back and go to make a swipe and ruin the piece the you are working on due to a worn blade or burr.  

To each their own- as I said before, the average DIY'er and Contractor won't care, as this place is filled with them.  But head over to a wood forum or to any of the big names that have their own schools, and will get laughed out.  My planes range in value form a few buck to several hundreds of dollars.  The blades will laws forever if cared for, and I care for mine well.

After seeing these posts, I think I will build a box to hold all the planes.  Each plane will have it's own "safe place" with toe and heel blocks.

This is how I store mine. They don't sit long enough for the "vibrations" to dull the blades.

Love your collection

Nice see tools that are used and not collected

Whay is that corner plane thingie that has a swastika on it?  Where'd you get that?  Is it for wood or plaster?

That is a core box plane.   The were used by pattern makers to cut large half round grooves in wood.  Probably for foundry molds
Stanley made a couple different ones, one had detachable wings the would ride on the edges of the groove.  You would put more wings on the wider the groove/bigger the radius was.
But that one in the photo is not a Stanley

I've been to a bunch of different woodworking schools.  Most of the people who attend them are a bunch of posers.  Older guys with boatloads of money that brag about all their new Sawstops and Felder machinery, but when it comes time to cut a dovetail, or use a handplane to flatten and joint a board with a hand plane, they can't do it.  Or guys my age and income level, that talk hours on end about stuff like this, and how all they want to use are hand tools, because its somehow more pure and that's how it used to be done.   but when it comes time to do any sort of joinery, they have to have one of the instructors do it for them.  Same goes for the guy that buys hand tools like spoke shaves made of ebony.  But it takes them hours to do anything, and it still looks coarse.  Or the snobs with their $3000 Sauer and Steiner work of art planes making 0.001" thick shavings from pine like it means something?  The old furniture makers had no time for such nonsense.

And the wood forum place are probably even filled with more sanctimonious people than any others I have seen.

And if seasonal or daily  wood movements in the 0.0001 or probably less than that under the blade are going to dull wood, my god, what is going to happen when you actually joint a board, or god forbid you flatten and smooth a rough cut board?  And it is possible to retract the blade pretty easily on most planes.

These guys are having fun.   There is no need to be condescending.   frankly its a great thing so many now want to and do use hand tools insead of power tools.  There are times and places for both, but some times its nice not to have some power tool screamin away and depositing dust and chips all over the place.

That is correct. A cast aluminum core box plane cast with a "swastika" device. The Buffum Tool Company of Louisiana, Missouri (1910-1924) used such a symbol and it was probably made by them.

ETA I think I have a set of Buffum babbet scrapers somewhere with the same copyright emblem on them. I'll have to dig them out in my spare time.

Mineral oil for the iron/chip breaker.  Do not store with the wedge in place.  Doing so can blow the cheeks out.

Metal planes get wiped down w/ mineral oil.

Any of youse guys visit Saw Mill Creek?

Sweet!!!!!!

Good point about wood wedges. I leave mine in but I loosen them.
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This type of wooden plane (plow plane) the wedge can be left in since it is fully enclosed.
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Saw handles are usually good unless you drop them.
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I just wax my chisel handles and they seem fine.
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I have looked at Saw Mill Creek now and again.  Not sure why not more often.  It is about the only woodworking forum that has a tolerable format.  Woodweb I think is just an absolutely hideous layout, like 1990s software.

I used to like the old Knots forum the FWW had, but at some point it just died out.

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We have a couple in a wooden drawer, always stored on their sides.
The are metal ones, not wooden, so they are not older display pieces.   I'm just trying to protect the blade, from damage.