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Posted: 3/24/2024 11:08:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rat_Patrol]
[#1]
Making a replacement handle for my back saver snow shovel. The original one snapped. Made out of PETG, using my super structural settings for strength. Should be done in the early AM, ready for our 12 inches of snow we have currently falling.
 And the final result: 
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MI, USA
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Posted: 3/25/2024 6:25:26 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Making a replacement handle for my back saver snow shovel. The original one snapped. Made out of PETG, using my super structural settings for strength. Should be done in the early AM, ready for our 12 inches of snow we have currently falling. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165887/Screenshot_2024-03-24_220631-3168623.png And the final result: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165887/Shovel_handle-3169085.jpg Where did the old one break? |
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Posted: 3/25/2024 6:38:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rat_Patrol]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 2Hut8: Where did the old one break? The part you actually grip. To be clear, the plastic grip handle broke, not the metal tube. |
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Posted: 3/25/2024 11:14:10 PM EDT
[#4]
Did a test print with steel insert, Turned out good. trying to think of a useful print to try next.
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Posted: 3/25/2024 11:35:22 PM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 3/26/2024 7:51:46 AM EDT
[#6]
DB9?
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Posted: 3/26/2024 9:04:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AFCarbon15]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bionicmonkey: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000002452_jpg-3169622.JPG I haven't been following close enough. Are there fully printed Bolts yet? Even if they require a weight? Edit to add: They're printing now, but the important part is they have a new home.  Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus x2 3d Printer Enclosure #3dprinting |
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Posted: 3/27/2024 7:08:13 PM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 3/27/2024 8:52:41 PM EDT
[#9]
Forgive me Rat. I have sinned.
 
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Posted: 3/27/2024 9:56:12 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Forgive me Rat. I have sinned. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009908-3171305.jpg Shit just got real!! |
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Posted: 3/27/2024 10:50:34 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Forgive me Rat. I have sinned. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009908-3171305.jpg *looks around for ban hammer* |
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Posted: 3/27/2024 10:50:48 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bulldog1967: Shit just got real!! Never thought I'd find myself here. My 16 minute benchy or whatever. It's got a tiny layer shift. I bumped the desk as it was printing that piece and it's on a wobbly desk to begin with so I won't fault it yet for that.  I'm printing a poop chute now. The microcenter by me has awesome poop chutes but I can't find it. The top layer is like glass. So far, I'm pretty impressed.  May be selling an MK3S+/MMU3 setup here soon. Not sure yet. I'm going to give it more time. |
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Posted: 3/27/2024 11:37:37 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Never thought I'd find myself here. My 16 minute benchy or whatever. It's got a tiny layer shift. I bumped the desk as it was printing that piece and it's on a wobbly desk to begin with so I won't fault it yet for that. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009915-3171432.jpg I'm printing a poop chute now. The microcenter by me has awesome poop chutes but I can't find it. The top layer is like glass. So far, I'm pretty impressed. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009919-3171433.jpg May be selling an MK3S+/MMU3 setup here soon. Not sure yet. I'm going to give it more time. Ive been really happy with mine, its on a cart with wheels and it still prints very nice. Need to move a Bridgeport and extrude hone and give it a permanent place. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 12:21:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#14]
Printed this is an hour and 38 minutes.
  Just checked my Prusaslicer times for this model. 6:13 with a 0.4 nozzle which is what this Bambu has. Or 3:18 with a 0.6mm nozzle. So it's over twice as fast, despite a 0.4 vs 0.6 advantage to the MK3S+.
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Posted: 3/28/2024 12:54:12 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Printed this is an hour and 38 minutes. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009922-3171534.jpg From the box to this print, how much tweaking and setup was required? Bed leveling, axis adjustments etc? |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 3/28/2024 6:16:15 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Printed this is an hour and 38 minutes. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009922-3171534.jpg I love my X1C. No setup required (No bed leveling. no calibrating. No messing with printing profiles.) and the guys that I know with printers have all been impressed by A) the quality of my prints and B) how fast the X1C prints them. So I have been spending my energy learning how to design things to print and not trying to get them to print. I have owned it for three months and over 200 hours on it so far. It even handles hiccups gracefully. I had a roll of PLA that was rolled poorly and it bound up during the print. The printer detected the jam, paused, and sent me a text. I untangled it, told the printer to retry, and it continued the job (an hour after it jammed) and you cannot tell where the printer paused. Running a spool out and switching to a different spool in the middle of the job is flawless but you have to enable that option. It isn't enabled by default. My printer shipped with the smooth plate (the textured plate seems to be better for part adhesion) and I had a plate full of little parts that had a couple of the parts come loose from the bed. I was able to tell the printer to skip those parts mid job and it did. It finished the rest of the plate without putting any more filament onto the parts that came loose. I bought a bunch of spare parts for it but I haven't used any of them. I have been making a lot of tool organizers for Milwaukee Packout style tool cases lately. I have been enjoying the process. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 9:37:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wookie1562: From the box to this print, how much tweaking and setup was required? Bed leveling, axis adjustments etc? It's not as quick as everyone says. They say 15 minutes. That's BS. It took me about 30 minutes from sitting the box on the table to powering the unit up. You have to remove a bunch of screws to get the AMS unit out, get all the plastic off, get the dessicant out, styrofoam cleaned out, AMS setup, etc etc etc. Then once it powers on, it took 45 minutes of firmware updates and calibration. Mine went through the calibration process, and once that is done you bind it to Bambu Studio. There, it told me I have a firmware update. Then after the firmware update it had to rerun calibration. So not ideal but it's fine. Bed leveling is all automatic during the calibration process. It calibrates resonance compensation at that point too. Wondering if I need to recalibrate it when I move it to a less jiggly work surface. Overall though I'm extremely happy with the unboxing. It only took so long because it is packed so well. It was very nicely packed and the design of the packaging alone is quality. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 9:46:27 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 2Hut8: I love my X1C. No setup required (No bed leveling. no calibrating. No messing with printing profiles.) and the guys that I know with printers have all been impressed by A) the quality of my prints and B) how fast the X1C prints them. So I have been spending my energy learning how to design things to print and not trying to get them to print. I have owned it for three months and over 200 hours on it so far. It even handles hiccups gracefully. I had a roll of PLA that was rolled poorly and it bound up during the print. The printer detected the jam, paused, and sent me a text. I untangled it, told the printer to retry, and it continued the job (an hour after it jammed) and you cannot tell where the printer paused. Running a spool out and switching to a different spool in the middle of the job is flawless but you have to enable that option. It isn't enabled by default. My printer shipped with the smooth plate (the textured plate seems to be better for part adhesion) and I had a plate full of little parts that had a couple of the parts come loose from the bed. I was able to tell the printer to skip those parts mid job and it did. It finished the rest of the plate without putting any more filament onto the parts that came loose. I bought a bunch of spare parts for it but I haven't used any of them. I have been making a lot of tool organizers for Milwaukee Packout style tool cases lately. I have been enjoying the process. People like you buy all the spare parts and now I can't get them! I was like I need an extra bed. Guy says sorry, all out. Have been OOS for three months. SonI say fine, I need a 0.6 nozzle. Sorry he says, those have been sold out longer. So I ordered an ObXidian nozzle. Increases volumetric flow rate 60%. Looking forward to it. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 1:07:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: People like you buy all the spare parts and now I can't get them! I was like I need an extra bed. Guy says sorry, all out. Have been OOS for three months. SonI say fine, I need a 0.6 nozzle. Sorry he says, those have been sold out longer. So I ordered an ObXidian nozzle. Increases volumetric flow rate 60%. Looking forward to it. TH3D has replacement nozzles. I think that they are also going to stock other bits and bobs for bamboo printers since they seem to like them. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 6:29:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PC-Tech]
[#20]
I made some replacement feet for a range bag that lost some.
https://www.printables.com/model/823865-screw-on-feet-for-bag  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 10:46:26 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 2Hut8: I love my X1C. No setup required (No bed leveling. no calibrating. No messing with printing profiles.) and the guys that I know with printers have all been impressed by A) the quality of my prints and B) how fast the X1C prints them. So I have been spending my energy learning how to design things to print and not trying to get them to print. I have owned it for three months and over 200 hours on it so far. It even handles hiccups gracefully. I had a roll of PLA that was rolled poorly and it bound up during the print. The printer detected the jam, paused, and sent me a text. I untangled it, told the printer to retry, and it continued the job (an hour after it jammed) and you cannot tell where the printer paused. Running a spool out and switching to a different spool in the middle of the job is flawless but you have to enable that option. It isn't enabled by default. My printer shipped with the smooth plate (the textured plate seems to be better for part adhesion) and I had a plate full of little parts that had a couple of the parts come loose from the bed. I was able to tell the printer to skip those parts mid job and it did. It finished the rest of the plate without putting any more filament onto the parts that came loose. I bought a bunch of spare parts for it but I haven't used any of them. I have been making a lot of tool organizers for Milwaukee Packout style tool cases lately. I have been enjoying the process. Shit I didnt know that was a option. That would have helped a few times |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 10:56:55 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jm0502: Shit I didnt know that was a option. That would have helped a few times Yep, there is a little skip button on the main screen. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 11:02:53 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: It's not as quick as everyone says. They say 15 minutes. That's BS. It took me about 30 minutes from sitting the box on the table to powering the unit up. You have to remove a bunch of screws to get the AMS unit out, get all the plastic off, get the dessicant out, styrofoam cleaned out, AMS setup, etc etc etc. Then once it powers on, it took 45 minutes of firmware updates and calibration. Mine went through the calibration process, and once that is done you bind it to Bambu Studio. There, it told me I have a firmware update. Then after the firmware update it had to rerun calibration. So not ideal but it's fine. Bed leveling is all automatic during the calibration process. It calibrates resonance compensation at that point too. Wondering if I need to recalibrate it when I move it to a less jiggly work surface. Overall though I'm extremely happy with the unboxing. It only took so long because it is packed so well. It was very nicely packed and the design of the packaging alone is quality. Still pretty damn quick even at 30 mins. I easily burn 30-60 minutes tweaking adjustments on an old ender3, firing up the print, watching the bed leveling fail, starting the print anyways, then scrapping it once it actually fails |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 11:14:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bionicmonkey]
[#24]
Following up from the post a few up..
 Attached File Attached FileAssembled with 23 bolts the print orientations on the receiver are optimal at all 3 stress points. The recoil trasnfer system (2nd pic) ensures snug fit so recoil transfers to the chassis not the fcg pins and the receiver is well supported to avoid cracking. The 3x 3mm bolts holding the back end of the receiver together should help with that also. Not pictured but the front end barrel mount bolts have been replaced by 4mm which shrinks them just enough to both allow an embedded nut for the mounting hole but also embedded lock nuts for the barrel mount bolts so there is no expansion force on the front end only compression through layers. Print quality isnt perfect due to 0.6mm nozzle and slightly over extruding - also ABS does not do well printing on supports. Think i might go back to 0.4mm |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 8:40:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Needed a better guard on the 6" pond overflow intake. In normal times, most intake will be from underneath the ring.
Done in ASA, a bit over 10 hours print time on the Xmax3.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/30/2024 4:50:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: VTD]
[#26]
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AL, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2024 11:13:19 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Printed this is an hour and 38 minutes. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009922-3171534.jpg Just checked my Prusaslicer times for this model. 6:13 with a 0.4 nozzle which is what this Bambu has. Or 3:18 with a 0.6mm nozzle. So it's over twice as fast, despite a 0.4 vs 0.6 advantage to the MK3S+. Yeah, I'm finding even with a 0.4mm nozzle I'm not losing much speed on my QIDI X-Plus3 vs the volcano nozzle 0.6mm on my Zero G Merc 1. Especially if I can run CHT clone nozzles on the QIDI. I kinda like the detail I get with the 0.4mm nozzle especially on the models I print that need to fit together. I was gonna order a Bambu P1S Combo, but I might be traveling for work to AZ and might not be home when it arrives, so I'm gonna have to hold out. |
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Posted: 3/31/2024 12:28:49 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By memsu: Yeah, I'm finding even with a 0.4mm nozzle I'm not losing much speed on my QIDI X-Plus3 vs the volcano nozzle 0.6mm on my Zero G Merc 1. Especially if I can run CHT clone nozzles on the QIDI. I kinda like the detail I get with the 0.4mm nozzle especially on the models I print that need to fit together. I was gonna order a Bambu P1S Combo, but I might be traveling for work to AZ and might not be home when it arrives, so I'm gonna have to hold out. I walked right into microcenter and walked out with one. Also ordered a 0.6 complete hotend. They came in stock. I'll probably end up getting a 0.4 ObXidian nozzle as well. Eventually I'll likely have two of these. I'll keep one 0.4 and one 0.6. I'm surprised slice or Bondtech haven't released upgrades yet. A more powerful heater and CHT would do wonders. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 3/31/2024 10:34:49 PM EDT
[#29]
I had to make a collar adapter for a guage pod. Wall thickness was .825mm (.032”).
Took two prints. Had to bump up the exterior dim by .5mm to get it right. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: I walked right into microcenter and walked out with one. Also ordered a 0.6 complete hotend. They came in stock. I'll probably end up getting a 0.4 ObXidian nozzle as well. Eventually I'll likely have two of these. I'll keep one 0.4 and one 0.6. I'm surprised slice or Bondtech haven't released upgrades yet. A more powerful heater and CHT would do wonders. Welcome to the club. |
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Posted: 3/31/2024 10:57:41 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gtfoxy: I had to make a collar adapter for a guage pod. Wall thickness was .825mm (.032”). Took two prints. Had to bump up the exterior dim by .5mm to get it right. Welcome to the club. Thanks! 40 hours on it this far so still early on. I have some stuff to figure out still but overall pretty natural transition from Prusa. One failed print thus far. I have some super skinny panels that have a slight curve that I print standing up. My Prusa prints them standing up zero brim...I print a lot of these and hate post processing. So I tried on the Bambu and the shaking knocked them over. I turned the acceleration and speed down to Prusa's limit and reprinted and it's fine. So now I'm printing a set 25% faster. It's printing now, but so far so good. The quality is night and day between the panels though. Pic showing Bambu vs Prusa. Lack of Pressure advance really hurts the Prusa here. The seam is on the end. You can see it dog bones. I had to slow it way down for this phenomenon to go away, or print it at an elevated temperature which introduced stringing.  Panel for reference so you can get a sense of skinniness and height. 
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WI, USA
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Posted: 4/1/2024 2:35:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: gtfoxy]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Thanks! 40 hours on it this far so still early on. I have some stuff to figure out still but overall pretty natural transition from Prusa. One failed print thus far. I have some super skinny panels that have a slight curve that I print standing up. My Prusa prints them standing up zero brim...I print a lot of these and hate post processing. So I tried on the Bambu and the shaking knocked them over. I turned the acceleration and speed down to Prusa's limit and reprinted and it's fine. So now I'm printing a set 25% faster. It's printing now, but so far so good. The quality is night and day between the panels though. Pic showing Bambu vs Prusa. Lack of Pressure advance really hurts the Prusa here. The seam is on the end. You can see it dog bones. I had to slow it way down for this phenomenon to go away, or print it at an elevated temperature which introduced stringing. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009977-3175190.jpg Panel for reference so you can get a sense of skinniness and height. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009978-3175191.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By gtfoxy: I had to make a collar adapter for a guage pod. Wall thickness was .825mm (.032”). Took two prints. Had to bump up the exterior dim by .5mm to get it right. Welcome to the club. Thanks! 40 hours on it this far so still early on. I have some stuff to figure out still but overall pretty natural transition from Prusa. One failed print thus far. I have some super skinny panels that have a slight curve that I print standing up. My Prusa prints them standing up zero brim...I print a lot of these and hate post processing. So I tried on the Bambu and the shaking knocked them over. I turned the acceleration and speed down to Prusa's limit and reprinted and it's fine. So now I'm printing a set 25% faster. It's printing now, but so far so good. The quality is night and day between the panels though. Pic showing Bambu vs Prusa. Lack of Pressure advance really hurts the Prusa here. The seam is on the end. You can see it dog bones. I had to slow it way down for this phenomenon to go away, or print it at an elevated temperature which introduced stringing. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009977-3175190.jpg Panel for reference so you can get a sense of skinniness and height. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009978-3175191.jpg Awesome. I haven’t played with any speed changes, just been doing everything at “Normal” setting & haven’t messed with acceleration rates or anything like that either. I will say a friend of mine found he had to slow things down on his P1 when doing real large radius prints. I did work on some flow calibration settings, but it was really minimal & I found other factors, like filament dryness, had a larger impact than messing with BL’s settings with their filament. Off brand stuff just required some temp changes to get them working well. Other that it’s been pretty reliable print quality. Next I’m going to have to tackle dimensional variations. Getting it to print, after cooling contraction, to what the parts are supposed to be dimensionally. I’ve been able to fudge some stuff, but it’s not a long term solution. Oh, & the Orca slicer is awesome. Tried the scarfing function today & it’s tits. |
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Posted: 4/1/2024 2:31:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#32]
I screwed up the first version inlet screen - assumed the pipe was 6" & it was 4". Did a proper sized replacement & installed it today.
 Attached FilePrinted in ASA so it should stand up to outside use OK. |
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Posted: 4/1/2024 5:20:06 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Forgive me Rat. I have sinned. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009908-3171305.jpg |
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Posted: 4/1/2024 5:24:19 PM EDT
[#34]
couldn't make our nation wide carbon tax protest today but I will be protesting all riding season.
fuck turdeau you commie loving pos. 
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Posted: 4/1/2024 5:50:37 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Striker: What did that cost if you don't mid me asking. Up here it's $1869 plus tax. $1449 USD. That's $1900 CAD give or take. |
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Posted: 4/1/2024 7:25:45 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: $1449 USD. That's $1900 CAD give or take.
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Posted: 4/3/2024 8:11:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#37]
Printing clips galore for some string lights to put around our deck. Of course every side needs a different mounting technique.
 Printed in a mixture of Sunlu transparent PETG and Numakers transparent PETG. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 8:14:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#38]
(Reprint from Ham section post)
The G90 arrived so I got to do some hands on measurements, revise the model, then print & test fit. Ended up adding a 6mm recess on the inner side of the handles to clear the ribs. The lift angle was selected for fan & power box clearances.  Attached FileThe fan & power box placement. Fan towards the front half - I think that is the warmer portion.  Attached FileI built in 10mm or so of clearance between fan & radio to promote air movement  Attached FileThe powerbox will have anderson powerpole pairs & maybe a fuse across the back, it will also house a 5A USB charging board & a switch for the fan. A mini-Tamiya connector will be wired in for connection to the radio. The USB power is for a RPi 4B with touch screen, hopefully for running digital modes. Don't know yet if the USB PWS will cause noise issues.  Attached FileThe model in f360 (without the inner face recess)  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 8:43:04 PM EDT
[#39]
Tested out PLA support interface on a PETG print of this new design of mine for a FART Cap with built in wrench handles.
 It worked great...until I tightened it down. The PETG peeled off like it wasn't full melted. It was crackling when I twisted it in my hands before screwing it on. I test PETG parts' layer adhesion this way...it failed that so thought I'd screw it on. Easily popped off.  Either the nozzle temp didn't rebound fast enough swapping back to PETG or it didn't purge enough and PLA was left in the mix causing crap adhesion. Now that this layer is separated the rest of the part seems to pass the flex test. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 8:59:31 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Tested out PLA support interface on a PETG print of this new design of mine for a FART Cap with built in wrench handles. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009990-3177435.jpg It worked great...until I tightened it down. The PETG peeled off like it wasn't full melted. It was crackling when I twisted it in my hands before screwing it on. I test PETG parts' layer adhesion this way...it failed that so thought I'd screw it on. Easily popped off. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009991-3177436.jpg Either the nozzle temp didn't rebound fast enough swapping back to PETG or it didn't purge enough and PLA was left in the mix causing crap adhesion. Now that this layer is separated the rest of the part seems to pass the flex test. |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 10:37:19 PM EDT
[#41]
Finished printing this AR mag loader today. It works great if the rounds feed out of the hopper, but having issues getting them to feed into the chute from the hopper. I think the ramp in the bottom isn’t steep enough, wish I knew CAD to be able to modify it.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 10:43:53 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RHR_12: Finished printing this AR mag loader today. It works great if the rounds feed out of the hopper, but having issues getting them to feed into the chute from the hopper. I think the ramp in the bottom isn't steep enough, wish I knew CAD to be able to modify it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/420759/IMG_3005_jpeg-3177530.JPG |
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Posted: 4/3/2024 11:08:06 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RHR_12: Finished printing this AR mag loader today. It works great if the rounds feed out of the hopper, but having issues getting them to feed into the chute from the hopper. I think the ramp in the bottom isn’t steep enough, wish I knew CAD to be able to modify it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/420759/IMG_3005_jpeg-3177530.JPG Do you have a link to the files? |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 4/4/2024 2:02:37 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Tested out PLA support interface on a PETG print of this new design of mine for a FART Cap with built in wrench handles. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009990-3177435.jpg It worked great...until I tightened it down. The PETG peeled off like it wasn't full melted. It was crackling when I twisted it in my hands before screwing it on. I test PETG parts' layer adhesion this way...it failed that so thought I'd screw it on. Easily popped off. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000009991-3177436.jpg Either the nozzle temp didn't rebound fast enough swapping back to PETG or it didn't purge enough and PLA was left in the mix causing crap adhesion. Now that this layer is separated the rest of the part seems to pass the flex test. PETG doesn't like to be printed fast as well. Guessing you printed on the Bambu. I had issues with parts printed on my QIDI X-Plus3 vs the same parts printed on my slow Ender 3. |
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Posted: 4/4/2024 8:02:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By memsu: PETG doesn't like to be printed fast as well. Guessing you printed on the Bambu. I had issues with parts printed on my QIDI X-Plus3 vs the same parts printed on my slow Ender 3. I'm well aware of PETGs speed limitation, but this isn't that. The rest of the part is extremely strong...it passes my flex test and I've found if it passes that test, it's good. A 0.6mm nozzle helps slow the Bambu down speed wise, as volumetric flow quickly becomes your limiting factor. This was printed relatively slow for a Bambu.. About 100mm/s. I've done layer adhesion tests and as long as you keep the heat cranked up this filament does well up until at least 130mm/s (30mm³/s). That said I'll probably try ABS for this part as well, just to see if it holds up any better long term. This will be a part I sell, so it needs to stand the rest of time. I printed this one with the same settings, save for the PLA printing temp and the purge volume. Cranked PLA up to 240 to have only a ten degree temp diff and also tripled the purge volume to 45mm³. This one is so strong I can't crack it even inching down as hard as I can. That said I may need to shorten the handles to give less leverage. You can really torque this guy down with the current length.  Somehow the top infill was monotonic vs monotonic lines. Created two visible deviations in the pattern. Oh well. 
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Posted: 4/4/2024 7:41:58 PM EDT
[#46]
Finished up the revisions & printed a (hopefully) final version of the add-ons for the G90.
Front view - fan offset is about 14mm  Attached FileRear view - the power box isn't populated with powerpoles, etc. as I'm still waiting on a pack of switches.  Attached FileRight side - rectangular opening is for the fan on/off switch. Fan cable entry is via the bottom.  Attached FileLeft side - rectangular opening is access to the USB A connector on the 5v 5a power supply. Round opening is for the radio power cable with mini-Tamiya connector  Attached FileBottom - fan guard is done using honeycomb infill with 0 top & bottom layers  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/4/2024 9:40:51 PM EDT
[#47]
Printed a new cap, with triple the purge volume, and lowered the temp Delta between PETG and PLA to 10 degrees from 30.
Perfectly strong now. Zero creaking and cracking up on torquing it.  
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Posted: 4/5/2024 12:46:36 AM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By sgthatred: I'll take a look at the files to see if I can change it for you if you want. Appreciate it, I’ll send you a pm tomorrow Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly: Do you have a link to the files? I won’t post a link here because I got in trouble once for posting a link to the strange ocean. Search “AWCY? AR Magloader”. If you still can’t find it, send me a PM and I’ll get you sorted out. It seems like the issue is really minor, just needs a steeper ramp in the bottom of the hopper by a couple degrees. Once the round feeds, it works beautifully. The only non printed parts are two steel rods (3mm, had some left over from glock print builds), a spring, and an AR mag catch assembly. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 11:53:54 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RHR_12: Appreciate it, I’ll send you a pm tomorrow I won’t post a link here because I got in trouble once for posting a link to the strange ocean. Search “AWCY? AR Magloader”. If you still can’t find it, send me a PM and I’ll get you sorted out. It seems like the issue is really minor, just needs a steeper ramp in the bottom of the hopper by a couple degrees. Once the round feeds, it works beautifully. The only non printed parts are two steel rods (3mm, had some left over from glock print builds), a spring, and an AR mag catch assembly. I managed to find it. Looking at the hopper. I would rather see the throat centered between sloped sides. If you look at the throat from the top you can see one side is offset. This causes rounds to jam in the throat. |
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Posted: 4/5/2024 6:45:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: RHR_12]
[#50]
Ok, I got it working! I filed back the lip on the hopper a bit (widened the opening, and flared the corners), and it’s feeding 100% now! This thing is awesome! Thanks for the offers for help everyone, you’re why ARFCOM is awesome.
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