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Originally Posted By Klee: I have really good luck with glue sticks, works great on PLA, PETG and CF PETG. Of course I just jinxed myself saying that. View Quote Textured PEI makes glue stick completely unnecessary with all those filaments. Some PETG will stick TOO well to PEI so a quick spray of windex solves that. I keep two plates...one for PLA, one for PETG. Otherwise identical plates but prevents me from having to clean them. Aint nobody got time for that! Honestly the only two brands that I've found that need it is Numakers and Sunlu. Atomic, Prusament, Polymaker, and a few others don't seem to have the overkill sticking issue. |
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. (You are here) Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165887/1000019241-3189504.jpg Shop light mounts for hanging shop lights in my storage trailer. ASA to handle the heat. View Quote Heat? What part is getting hot? |
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Originally Posted By gtfoxy: Heat? What part is getting hot? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By gtfoxy: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165887/1000019241-3189504.jpg Shop light mounts for hanging shop lights in my storage trailer. ASA to handle the heat. Heat? What part is getting hot? The trailer. Closed up, semi trailers are solar ovens. Petg would almost certainly work fine, but I'm out at the moment. |
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. (You are here) Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: The trailer. Closed up, semi trailers are solar ovens. Petg would almost certainly work fine, but I'm out at the moment. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By gtfoxy: Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165887/1000019241-3189504.jpg Shop light mounts for hanging shop lights in my storage trailer. ASA to handle the heat. Heat? What part is getting hot? The trailer. Closed up, semi trailers are solar ovens. Petg would almost certainly work fine, but I'm out at the moment. Gotcha. Was trying to figure out if you meant that or something from the light fixture. |
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VCDL Executive Member - JOIN VCDL: https://vcdl.org/page/join
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This box from Printables is good to go if you need a custom size.
Attached File https://www.printables.com/model/540605-parametric-box-v2-single-clasp/files |
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You should make the FJ logo flush with the top if the cap, and then print it that way facing the bed if you can. Will give it a nice finished look.
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a few more small replacement parts for the upgrade on the printer.
And the fun one was a hex shaped parts holder. I finished 1 of 2 and the 2nd one is in progress. I should have printed out these before starting the project. here is the stl for it https://www.printables.com/model/171383-less-thin-hexagon-parts-tray Now that the cable wraps arrived for the printer I can get back to task. |
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The last thing a tyrant wants is their ideas to be judged on the battle field of truth and justice.
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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And you should only need 3-4 layers of the separate color. With those small parts, it won't be much babysitting the machine.
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. (You are here) Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Striker: you kinda lost me. lol if I make the letters flush I won't be able to change the colour...will I? View Quote Make Flush Text With Bambu Studio Another way is to do it in your CAD program, Cut out the letters -.04 on the model. Then Extrude that profile up .04 but make it a new model. Then export both items as a 3mf. When you bring it into your slicer it should keep them together, and you will be able to set the colors to each. Or you can do what I did with the box above, print the letters separately and bang them in with a hammer. I did cause I was using 2 types of filament. you will need to make the letter hole size .04 bigger to work. |
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Originally Posted By PC-Tech: Here is how to do it easily in Bambu or Orca Slicer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLolrSFryyA Another way is to do it in your CAD program, Cut out the letters -.04 on the model. Then Extrude that profile up .04 but make it a new model. Then export both items as a 3mf. When you bring it into your slicer it should keep them together, and you will be able to set the colors to each. Or you can do what I did with the box above, print the letters separately and bang them in with a hammer. I did cause I was using 2 types of filament. you will need to make the letter hole size .04 bigger to work. View Quote You should be able to mix filament fine unless one of them was PETG. Most of the others play together fairly well as long as you don't hurry the nozzle temp too fast. |
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. (You are here) Hard times breed strong men.
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Did a bit more on the screwdriver build. Scrapped the "sparkle black" prints & reprinted in grey ASA. I have the tinned copper buss wire that will get wrapped on the core & a packet of Keystone 209 nickel plated steel battery contacts. They looked to be easier to work with, & easier to source, than the usual copper finger gasket material.
Did a test fitup with the contacts & revised the contactor component dimensions for a bit better fit. The current contactor ring with 7 contacts Attached File fit on the coil core Attached File Attached File I was looking for tight enough for decent contact, but not so tight as to cause excessive drag. The contactor slip fits into the inner cover tube that has tracks to guide the coil movement & prevent rotation. Screws will secure it in place. View of coil & inner cover with one inner cover section removed (base not shown). Coil has a lower extension with rails to maintain alignment when fully raised. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Sure you can. Just put in a color change command manually or in Prusa Slicer just set up a multi component part and assign them each a different color. I did it all the time before I got my MMU3. I did 9 of these. No MMU at the time. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000010315-3192078.jpg View Quote Can you write that again in big block letters in crayon so I can understand it? Or is it dumbed down on the prusa site? |
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By PC-Tech: Here is how to do it easily in Bambu or Orca Slicer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLolrSFryyA Another way is to do it in your CAD program, Cut out the letters -.04 on the model. Then Extrude that profile up .04 but make it a new model. Then export both items as a 3mf. When you bring it into your slicer it should keep them together, and you will be able to set the colors to each. Or you can do what I did with the box above, print the letters separately and bang them in with a hammer. I did cause I was using 2 types of filament. you will need to make the letter hole size .04 bigger to work. View Quote I'll give it a go once I figure out what all you folks are saying. lol |
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Experimenting with 3D print TPU Link Belt for my drill press. It will drive a 1/2 inch
Forstner through a 2x4 with no slippage but I haven't tested it on steel or with bigger bits. If nothing else it might get you by when in a hurry and not wanting to go buy another belt right away. Certainly much cheaper than linked belts at HF or Ebay. Probably could have scaled it down for a little better fit on the pulley. I will probably need to remove a couple more links after it stretches. Printed on X1C 100% infill GiantArm TPU 95a. Attached File Attached File 1/2, 3/8 and 5/8 but in Fusion it can be scaled to whatever size you need. Attached File |
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Yeah, it's amazing how you don't even realize how wet your filament was until you start printing from an active dryer.
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. (You are here) Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By Striker: Printed up some fork caps for my 86 FJ1200 after losing one on the highway..the bike is red and white so why not. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135/433685394_10159819167865817_531126661827-3191495.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135/433653909_10159819167655817_818603289988-3191497.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135/432787482_10159822499215817_807988723599-3191498.jpg Then spending an hour or so riding it I thought..what else could I make for fork caps and came up with this.. I'm going to paint the "nuts" silver to make them look more like metal.. SWMBO'd says I have to much time on my hands.. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135/20240418_192715_1_-3191500.jpg View Quote Love those bikes. My dad has one that needs to get un-mothballed, but I promised myself I wouldn't ride again till my kids are old enough to fend for themselves. It does seem like a missed opportunity to change that FJ to FJB though. |
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Every career politician in Washington is a lying self-serving piece of dog shit.
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Originally Posted By GonnaNeedaBiggerBoat: Love those bikes. My dad has one that needs to get un-mothballed, but I promised myself I wouldn't ride again till my kids are old enough to fend for themselves. It does seem like a missed opportunity to change that FJ to FJB though. View Quote He is in Canada. He isn't quite as invested in FJB as some of us. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: He is in Canada. He isn't quite as invested in FJB as some of us. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By GonnaNeedaBiggerBoat: Love those bikes. My dad has one that needs to get un-mothballed, but I promised myself I wouldn't ride again till my kids are old enough to fend for themselves. It does seem like a missed opportunity to change that FJ to FJB though. He is in Canada. He isn't quite as invested in FJB as some of us. It's FJT up there, but it's best not to offer, since I hear FJT likes that sort of thing. Back on topic - printed one of those print-in-place snake things on my 3 day old Qidi Q1 Pro on super fast mode after doing a bunch of acro-bin-alikes on it. Like all the new printers, it shakes like a washing machine at full speed, so I need to rearrange things for it to be able to live on the floor, but it's amazing that it can crank out a complex snake in 2 hours, compared to 7 on my old Ender 3 Pro w the SKR board. |
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In case you're wondering about the avatar pic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ARGjbA14g |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Just ordered another AMS. Now I have 8 color capability. Printed these little dessicant holders for them. Pretty neat. Nevermind my wet ASA. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000010339-3195240.jpg View Quote If I had that I swear my daughter's designs would switch colors so often half the filament would end up used in the switchovers. I'd like a thread about ASA, and also so I can give you a hard time about the stringing on your prints of the desiccant holders Sorry, ETA the on topic: I figured out how to switch filaments on the Qidi without wasting so much filament. Printed a couple of calibration tests on it so see what the slicer settings do. |
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In case you're wondering about the avatar pic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ARGjbA14g |
Originally Posted By homeyclaus: If I had that I swear my daughter's designs would switch colors so often half the filament would end up used in the switchovers. I'd like a thread about ASA, and also so I can give you a hard time about the stringing on your prints of the desiccant holders Sorry, ETA the on topic: I figured out how to switch filaments on the Qidi without wasting so much filament. Printed a couple of calibration tests on it so see what the slicer settings do. View Quote One of my first prints was this awesome articulating poop chute pipe. Dumps purged filament into a 3 gallon bucket. I got this printer like what? 3 weeks ago now and the bucket is almost half full already. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Just ordered another AMS. Now I have 8 color capability. Printed these little dessicant holders for them. Pretty neat. Nevermind my wet ASA. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000010339-3195240.jpg View Quote |
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Originally Posted By O_Guiness: Experimenting with 3D print TPU Link Belt for my drill press. It will drive a 1/2 inch Forstner through a 2x4 with no slippage but I haven't tested it on steel or with bigger bits. If nothing else it might get you by when in a hurry and not wanting to go buy another belt right away. Certainly much cheaper than linked belts at HF or Ebay. Probably could have scaled it down for a little better fit on the pulley. I will probably need to remove a couple more links after it stretches. Printed on X1C 100% infill GiantArm TPU 95a. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/475357/20240420_101244_1__jpg-3193241.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/475357/20240420_104629_1__jpg-3193244.JPG 1/2, 3/8 and 5/8 but in Fusion it can be scaled to whatever size you need. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/475357/LinkBelt_PNG-3193256.JPG View Quote Really curious to see if that holds up. I have very little faith in 3D printed stuff used in real life applications. |
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Originally Posted By tnriverluver: Really curious to see if that holds up. I have very little faith in 3D printed stuff used in real life applications. View Quote Not everything is as abusive on material as guns. I have 3D printed parts that get hard use and hold up just fine. I have a shower want holder that gets used every single day, pulled on, pryed on, and has for 3 years now. Still perfect. I have custom tools I made in 2021 that still hold up perfect. Proper material and print settings go a long way. Generally people choose the wrong material for the job or don't k ow how to lay the part out for proper strength in the proper areas. Having those right go a long way. I have cargo rack mounts on my bicycle that have held a 40lb rack for thousands of miles over bumps, pot holes, and constant vibration. They are prestine. 3D printed them, and they live in a hot garage and seen 110°+. That said 3D printing isn't a silver bullet and some things are simply too much. But it doesn't seem unreasonable to have these hold up, even if not strengthening them up and tweaking the design some. |
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Originally Posted By tnriverluver: Really curious to see if that holds up. I have very little faith in 3D printed stuff used in real life applications. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By tnriverluver: Originally Posted By O_Guiness: Experimenting with 3D print TPU Link Belt for my drill press. It will drive a 1/2 inch Forstner through a 2x4 with no slippage but I haven't tested it on steel or with bigger bits. If nothing else it might get you by when in a hurry and not wanting to go buy another belt right away. Certainly much cheaper than linked belts at HF or Ebay. Probably could have scaled it down for a little better fit on the pulley. I will probably need to remove a couple more links after it stretches. Printed on X1C 100% infill GiantArm TPU 95a. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/475357/20240420_101244_1__jpg-3193241.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/475357/20240420_104629_1__jpg-3193244.JPG 1/2, 3/8 and 5/8 but in Fusion it can be scaled to whatever size you need. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/475357/LinkBelt_PNG-3193256.JPG Really curious to see if that holds up. I have very little faith in 3D printed stuff used in real life applications. I got the idea to try it from this video. It didn't work for his flat belt but so far the v-link belt seems to hold up good enough, at least when drilling wood. Can you 3D print a functional lathe belt from TPU? |
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Anyone up for a challenge?
Guy builds first 3D printed screw bike Attached File World's First SCREW-BIKE |
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Originally Posted By tnriverluver: Anyone up for a challenge? Guy builds first 3D printed screw bike https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/318573/screw_jpg-3196640.JPG https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfna15r4EXM View Quote I feel like if I tried to ride that I would get screwed. |
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Tennessee Squire
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000002983_jpg-3199770.JPG View Quote |
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. (You are here) Hard times breed strong men.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: One of my first prints was this awesome articulating poop chute pipe. Dumps purged filament into a 3 gallon bucket. I got this printer like what? 3 weeks ago now and the bucket is almost half full already. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By homeyclaus: If I had that I swear my daughter's designs would switch colors so often half the filament would end up used in the switchovers. I'd like a thread about ASA, and also so I can give you a hard time about the stringing on your prints of the desiccant holders Sorry, ETA the on topic: I figured out how to switch filaments on the Qidi without wasting so much filament. Printed a couple of calibration tests on it so see what the slicer settings do. One of my first prints was this awesome articulating poop chute pipe. Dumps purged filament into a 3 gallon bucket. I got this printer like what? 3 weeks ago now and the bucket is almost half full already. There are molds you can buy online for castings your filament poop into various objects. Using your wife's unwanted toaster oven outside. Kharn |
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Originally Posted By Kharn: There are molds you can buy online for castings your filament poop into various objects. Using your wife's unwanted toaster oven outside. Kharn View Quote Instead of throwing it away. If you print with the same type of filament then recycle it. Good enough for making prototypes. Same the good filaments for final part. Plastic Grinder https://www.printables.com/model/738194-micro-plastic-shredder Filament extruder https://artme-3d.shop/products/hardware-diy-kit-original-desktop-filament-extruder-mk2-5 |
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Tennessee Squire
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Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly: Instead of throwing it away. If you print with the same type of filament then recycle it. Good enough for making prototypes. Same the good filaments for final part. Plastic Grinder https://www.printables.com/model/738194-micro-plastic-shredder Filament extruder https://artme-3d.shop/products/hardware-diy-kit-original-desktop-filament-extruder-mk2-5 View Quote wouldn't you need to do a LOT of printing to make that cost effective? that extruder is 700 dollars, that's 35 KG of filament to recover before you can start to creep into positive terriroty and that's before considering time/effort etc.. |
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Yes true but consider using the recycled filament to print prototypes and iterations. Save your good filament for printing final part.
Definitely not for people that print from models grabbed off the Internet. |
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Tennessee Squire
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Had to make a holster due to the unique shape of my glonk esp with the picatinny and light attached
Attached File Attached File Interestingly this allows the frame to fit snugly and correctly with or withought the light, rail, or slide even Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: Had to make a holster due to the unique shape of my glonk esp with the picatinny and light attached https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000002988_jpg-3202964.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000002989_jpg-3202965.JPG Interestingly this allows the frame to fit snugly and correctly with or withought the light, rail, or slide even https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000002990_jpg-3202966.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000002991_jpg-3202967.JPG View Quote That does not look comfortable at all. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Strong men create good times. Good times breed weak men. Weak men create hard times. (You are here) Hard times breed strong men.
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