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Link Posted: 4/23/2024 10:46:26 AM EDT
[#1]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 2JokersWild:
So, I'm trying to understand this. In Bambu Labs theres two tabs along the top, Prepare and Device. If I click Prepare thats where you do all the setuip for the model you want to print. Specifically you can define the filaments available to use for the print. However in the Device pane in the middle right you can see the filaments loaded in the AMS. Any Bambu filament is auto sensed but others need to be manually defined.

Whats throwing me off is whether theres a way to sync the filaments configured in the Prepare tab to the filaments loaded in the AMS in the Device tab. Its a bit odd to me these filaments dont sync up between the two tabs. Also, it looks like TPU isnt officially supported in the AMS? Anyone have experience with this? Do you just load TPU and configure it as standard PLA in the AMS and use TPU settings in the Prepare tab to get the right print settings for TPU?
View Quote


There is a sync button that syncs what the AMS is reporting.

Unfortunately it is usually generic unless there is a way to add custom filaments that can update the drop downs on the printer. Something tells me there is no way to do that.
Link Posted: 4/23/2024 8:55:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Tholo] [#2]
First, name the filament in that slot on the prepare tab.
Then run the calibrations from orca or bambu slicer.
The pressure advance is saved to the machine
Then run the flow calibration. That will create a filament setting by appending calibrated_SlotN to the name you defined.
I usually just make sure my custom filament setting has the PA and flow rate values updated, and delete the autocratic names.

Filament that is calibrated on that machine is available in the ams dropdown at the bottom.
If you can't find what I'm talking about, I'll go to computer later and put up some screenshots
Link Posted: 5/7/2024 10:11:49 AM EDT
[#3]
Attachment Attached File

If you're on the fence and near a microcenter, these are 10% off.
Link Posted: 5/7/2024 10:36:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Just found this thread.  I am about to buy a X1 with the AMS for work.  I am tired of constantly fiddling with my Ender 5+.  When it works it works, but damn if I dont spend a lot of time making it work.
Link Posted: 5/7/2024 11:42:19 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tholo:
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/246073/Screenshot_20240507_091011_jpg-3207813.JPG
If you're on the fence and near a microcenter, these are 10% off.
View Quote


Killer deal on the x1c if you have the card.
Link Posted: 5/7/2024 1:16:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Had my first broken piece of filament in my P1S with AMS - in general it should not be difficult to locate and remove the broken-off piece (unless perhaps it is lodged within the hot end assembly), the only wrinkle, however, is that my printer is not sitting in the easiest place for me to access it (but I will need to address that sooner or later anyway in order to hook up my filament dryer).


Link Posted: 5/7/2024 3:41:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tnertb:
The ABS thread made me think of 2 new filamanets Bambu  has started selling recently. Not sure how heavily they marketed it in case you guys didn't see it.


ABS-GF https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/abs-gf


and more color options than standard black/grey in the PA6-GF world as well https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pa6-gf
View Quote


I've been printing with the PA6-GF and the ABS-GF, and I love them both.  Right now you have to use the beta Bambu Slicer to get the profiles, otherwise you'll have to import the profiles and run it off the back hook rather than the AMS as neither Orca nor regular Bambu slicer will let you proceed with printing with a mismatched type.  Perhaps there's a workaround I'm not familiar with, but the price point of the ABS-GF is very reasonable, and the PA6-GF is great for the things that need it.  Still figuring out how I want to anneal the PA6-GF, there are examples out there of hot oven, boiling water, or hot oil, but I'll probably try them all and figure out what works best.
Link Posted: 5/7/2024 3:43:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JedMasterson] [#8]
Also, the ABS-GF does a good job of resisting warping.  I ran a small mountain bike tool yesterday with it, and while I would ordinarily have the door shut for the ABS, I accidentally left the door of my P1S wide open, on a print that would ordinarily have warped badly.  The additional rigidity of the -GF apparently meant that the warping was much less of an issue.

I just did this on my P1S, hardened nozzle.  The new Bambu PA6-GF for the dark parts, the ABS-GF for the body.  I was very pleased with how well the printer did both of them, and I would say the hardened nozzle is a must-have for doing these materials.

Attachment Attached File


It actually sounds really good, much better than the PLA Silk one I printed, and as a bonus, I don't think my car can get hot enough in the summer to unmake the new one, unlike the PLA instrument.
Link Posted: Yesterday 12:36:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: stewie97] [#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By targetworks:
Had my first broken piece of filament in my P1S with AMS - in general it should not be difficult to locate and remove the broken-off piece (unless perhaps it is lodged within the hot end assembly), the only wrinkle, however, is that my printer is not sitting in the easiest place for me to access it (but I will need to address that sooner or later anyway in order to hook up my filament dryer).


View Quote



I am redoing my setup as well - I have 5 printers on a storage rack with no real easy way to get behind them. Finding broken filiment in the middle printer this morning wasn't easy :)

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6tuLNhu4xJ/

Link Posted: Yesterday 12:48:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By JedMasterson:
Also, the ABS-GF does a good job of resisting warping.  I ran a small mountain bike tool yesterday with it, and while I would ordinarily have the door shut for the ABS, I accidentally left the door of my P1S wide open, on a print that would ordinarily have warped badly.  The additional rigidity of the -GF apparently meant that the warping was much less of an issue.

I just did this on my P1S, hardened nozzle.  The new Bambu PA6-GF for the dark parts, the ABS-GF for the body.  I was very pleased with how well the printer did both of them, and I would say the hardened nozzle is a must-have for doing these materials.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/584398/violin_png-3208383.JPG

It actually sounds really good, much better than the PLA Silk one I printed, and as a bonus, I don't think my car can get hot enough in the summer to unmake the new one, unlike the PLA instrument.
View Quote


You 3D printed a freakin' violin!?

Okay. Thats awesome. I need to know more.
Link Posted: Yesterday 1:00:29 PM EDT
[#11]
Hovalin Design site

The strings do matter, I'm running some cheap strings:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Y6BJI

and guitar-style tuners:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIC4QJO

Then the carbon fiber rod can be had pretty cheaply from a couple places.

The Bambu P1/X1/A1 build volume can't do the body in one go, so you have to do the body in three parts.  That said, I used a 3d printing pen with a bit of the ABS-GF to weld it all together *after* stringing it up and letting it settle into the load of the strings.

All told, it's like taking a stock Miata to track day.  It's not the fastest, or the best looking, but if you're having fun then it's the right tool.  I've got an nicer electric I can play if I want to, so the Hovalin fils a niche that I enjoy.  That said, the ABS-GF is no joke, it's a good value and prints really well.  The PA6-GF is the easiest I've done that gives good results (including -GF and -CF).
Link Posted: Yesterday 3:57:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JedMasterson] [#12]
To share some of the things that I've learned from my time with my P1S and A1Mini, with my background in 3d printing coming from a mess of self-built vorons and an overbuilt Ender 3:


  • Good filament matters - From my experience, on my good list is Bambu, Polymaker, and Elegoo, on my sometimes good list is Amazon Basics (doesn't work in AMS), Overture, eSun, Eryone, Hatchbox, and on my do-not-buy-anymore list is Ataraxia, Kinluot, 3DF, Priline.  Your mileage may vary.  

  • Clean PEI matters.  Finger grease (and such) can foul the surface far quicker than I used to think.  If in doubt about whether it's clean, clean it.  I use dishsoap to wash my beds, and then a thin layer of PVA gluestick, like comes with the printers.  Perhaps the gluestick isn't necessary for PLA, but I've had several failures without it with ABS and other materials.

  • Orca Slicer is great - I prefer it to Bambu Slicer, and it shares better with other printers if you have other brands in your 3d printing "garden" (smaller than a farm)

  • Bambu makes a fine printer, they're not the only manufacturer of fine printers, but they do have a *simple* bring-up, especially for a newb. For a new user, an A1m at the kind of price they're asking right now of $250 is tough to beat. (but you'll probably buy a P1S combo soon after you get the A1m)


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