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Posted: 2/11/2023 3:30:49 PM EDT
[#1]
They are sending a new bed assembly. I know for the faulty board cooling fans they are sending people a credit to the Bambu store to order the new ball bearing model of fan.
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Posted: 2/16/2023 11:59:01 AM EDT
[#2]
Cutting it too close with a 245gm print from a 250gm Sunlu PETG teaser roll. Poor printer has been hung all night waiting for help at 99% done, 1 minute left. I knew it was pushing it, but the 235gm print seemed to leave a notable remnant behind, just trying to use up the whole roll.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 2/19/2023 6:51:09 PM EDT
[#3]
I received my replacement bed and it also has a dip but it’s less than a mm so I’m going to go with it. The install is pretty involved so I haven’t taken the time to complete it yet.
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Posted: 2/20/2023 12:34:25 AM EDT
[#4]
^ hope it works out. Haven't tested mine but the prints seem flat.
Really need an X1-XL for some larger prints. Also copy that new Prusaslicer thign which automagically breaks larger models into printable parts with interfaces. I want a life-size Nike of Samothrace in my yard!! Did the maintenance in that Edge of Tech video, pretty easy. Made up a kit and set reminders for monthly/3 month maintenance intervals. Got 30kg of IIIDMax on the way, plus some other random orders. Finally getting ahead of production somewhat and building up a decent supply. About to need a bunch of garden stakes and other things, and also working on some t-post steel target hangers. Really considering at least 1 other AMS unit, just to have more colors on tap. Now I'm doing half things in PETG, so that needs slots too. Also really need an automated way to vent the top glass, that's really the biggest setup task needed for most switches. Besides peeling off the PETG which has almostoo much bed adhesion. |
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Posted: 2/21/2023 2:51:53 PM EDT
[#5]
Four hours later the bed has been replaced. The wiki with instructions show that there have been some design changes. A lot of that time was trying to figure out where the non existent screws were. As I said above the new bed still has a dip but it’s much less than the original so I’m going to have to make this one work because I don’t want to change the bed again.
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Posted: 2/22/2023 10:37:24 PM EDT
[#6]
I had a nozzle clog a few days ago and ended up just swapping the whole hotend assembly. Old one isn't screwed up but I had disassembled it and didn't want to mess with it any more
 . All the parts in a baggie to fix someday. I was planning to swap for a 0.6 nozzle but only had a complete hotend in 0.4 so that went in.Looking at BambuLab store, I note that it's cheaper to buy a complete hotend for $34.99 versus approx $36.15 for a nozzle, fan, heater, and thermister separately. But if you do a little work you don't need all those parts every time. What is the difference of the stainless steel nozzles versus hardened steel? Just cheaper, and less life due to softer steel? BL has only SS for 0.2, either one of 0.4, and only hardened for 0.6 and 0.8. |
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Posted: 2/23/2023 2:10:34 PM EDT
[#7]
https://blog.bambulab.com/quality-assurance-and-operations-update/
BambuLab blog update notes the heatbed issues with no real solution. Talks about a way to do flow calibration with a textured PEI plate, but it loses the info on reboot or changing filament. |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 2/23/2023 3:11:50 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: I had a nozzle clog a few days ago and ended up just swapping the whole hotend assembly. Old one isn't screwed up but I had disassembled it and didn't want to mess with it any more . All the parts in a baggie to fix someday. I was planning to swap for a 0.6 nozzle but only had a complete hotend in 0.4 so that went in.Looking at BambuLab store, I note that it's cheaper to buy a complete hotend for $34.99 versus approx $36.15 for a nozzle, fan, heater, and thermister separately. But if you do a little work you don't need all those parts every time. What is the difference of the stainless steel nozzles versus hardened steel? Just cheaper, and less life due to softer steel? BL has only SS for 0.2, either one of 0.4, and only hardened for 0.6 and 0.8. The hardened steel will be used for filaments that contain abrasive fillers (fiber filled, glow in the dark, marble...etc) You'd be fine on an occasional print using the SS version but ideally for dedicated or long runs of those types you'd want the hardened. Also fiber filled can tend to jam up on .4 size nozzles so that's why they're offered in the bigger sizes. |
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Posted: 2/28/2023 7:40:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mPisi]
[#9]
Can print via the Bambu Handy app by selecting your History and selecting an old print. I suppose you could pre-seed this by sending prints and then cancelling them before printing, to have them in your hisotry and available.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/NYo3DZBGKyw |
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Posted: 3/1/2023 7:58:09 PM EDT
[#10]
How dependent is the printer on the Bambu internet servers in actual printing?
When they go down, is it hard to print? Do you need them at all? Another way, can you describe what role the Bambu servers play in average printing? |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 3/1/2023 8:39:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Steamedliver: How dependent is the printer on the Bambu internet servers in actual printing? When they go down, is it hard to print? Do you need them at all? Another way, can you describe what role the Bambu servers play in average printing? You have two options, hit print from your couch or save the file to the SD card and go put it in the printer. |
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Posted: 3/1/2023 10:30:29 PM EDT
[#12]
Average printing uses the BL cloud for sending prints, status reports, and camera. Quite a bit of data actually.
CD card works all offline, it will save videos but no contact. I did this for a couple months before I got net out to my shed. There's also a LAN mode but I think it has a lot of bugs. This is supposed to be only between your BambuStudio on your computer and your printer on the same LAN. No Bambu Handy access then. |
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Posted: 3/1/2023 10:47:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Please clarify. With no internet connection, but with intranet connection, are you able to print at all?
SD card printing, is that available all the time? |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/1/2023 11:05:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Average printing uses the BL cloud for sending prints, status reports, and camera. Quite a bit of data actually. CD card works all offline, it will save videos but no contact. I did this for a couple months before I got net out to my shed. There's also a LAN mode but I think it has a lot of bugs. This is supposed to be only between your BambuStudio on your computer and your printer on the same LAN. No Bambu Handy access then. For a little more clarification the X1C has these 3 ways. The P1P only has cloud and SD printing options. No LAN mode. Also if the machines need firmware updates that can only be done via the cloud as of right now. |
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Posted: 3/1/2023 11:17:43 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Steamedliver: Please clarify. With no internet connection, but with intranet connection, are you able to print at all? SD card printing, is that available all the time? For X1C 1. Intended to but might be buggy? Check here and other things on their forum: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/lan-only-mode/3123 2. You can insert and remove at any time. If you mean initiating a print, you have to be at the printer to do this from the SD card. Studio and Handy can't see the card but do read the videos from it. |
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Posted: 3/3/2023 1:09:49 AM EDT
[#16]
Interesting little glitch tonight. Had a power bobble in the big storm, didn't go off but the blip was enough to cause computer reboots. The printer stopped and I was able to resume via the app as soon as the router got back online for communication. I've found it important to get going again really quickly since the bed adhesion doesn't seem to return when the bed cools down. But it all worked fine and the print continued and finished without a bobble.
The interesting thing was the status monitor layers were wrong. The power outage was somewhere around 400, when I checked again a while later I saw it at about 700 out of 726. But I could tell it wasn't close to being done. The remaining time was showing correctly I think. Then it finished at 1092/726.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/6/2023 4:03:13 AM EDT
[#17]
Printing this thing named after a whale-ish thing and following the instructions to a T... which are made for the Ender. So it's ACHINGLY slow. Usually I run my X1C at the default 100% speed, never saw the need for the faster ones, and now that it's in the shed I don't care much about noise. But after adjusting all the speeds to 50mm/s, basic prints take 12 hours, ridiculous. I just realized the piece I was printing wouldn't be done in time to start another in the morning before work, so I bumped it up to 124%, took an hour off. Figure it should be fine since it was still probably half-ish of the X1C defaults. I guess I should try another at normal X1C speeds and compare results. I was just using the slower stuff in order to really be good stuff, and follow instructions. Time doesn't really matter since I'll be waiting a bit for some other parts.
I was annoyed to find the special supports and modifier files supplied by the designer didn't come into Studio perfectly, they are off the plate and it doesn't seem by any logical amount. I was happy to learn about this functionality. |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/6/2023 3:21:05 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Printing this thing named after a whale-ish thing and following the instructions to a T... which are made for the Ender. So it's ACHINGLY slow. Usually I run my X1C at the default 100% speed, never saw the need for the faster ones, and now that it's in the shed I don't care much about noise. But after adjusting all the speeds to 50mm/s, basic prints take 12 hours, ridiculous. I just realized the piece I was printing wouldn't be done in time to start another in the morning before work, so I bumped it up to 124%, took an hour off. Figure it should be fine since it was still probably half-ish of the X1C defaults. I guess I should try another at normal X1C speeds and compare results. I was just using the slower stuff in order to really be good stuff, and follow instructions. Time doesn't really matter since I'll be waiting a bit for some other parts. I was annoyed to find the special supports and modifier files supplied by the designer didn't come into Studio perfectly, they are off the plate and it doesn't seem by any logical amount. I was happy to learn about this functionality. Killer
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Posted: 3/6/2023 10:17:02 PM EDT
[#19]
Three g projects in the works.
This was fun, trying to print 3 bucket lid wrenches. I've definitely had more trouble with the cheap Fremover filament, not buying it again. This was a bed adhesion failure that then got printed on a lot more, then bounced around the inside enough to bounce some tools off the top of the X1C. Not the best to wake up to after an overnight print.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/7/2023 12:26:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mPisi]
[#20]
350gr print, 20 hours?? What is this, some kind of joke?
edit: Once started, changed to Ludicrous mode (150%) speed and it's now predicting 12 hours. Unfortunately while it is only 150% of the ridiculously slow 50mm/s speed of the new default, I think the non-printing travel speed is still set to the normal X1C pace, which will now be 150% and probably less accurate. We'll see if it makes it. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 3/7/2023 5:56:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ShOcKeRpb]
[#21]
So...ended up going full send on an X1C for my first printer along with some spare nozzles and .06 hotend.
Who makes good filament to get started with? Not really concerned about cost right now, I just don't want junk fillament starting out. Eventually going to move to some nylon down the road after I get the hang with some less expensive material. |
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Posted: 3/7/2023 9:15:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: PC-Tech]
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ShOcKeRpb: So...ended up going full send on an X1C for my first printer along with some spare nozzles and .06 hotend. Who makes good filament to get started with? Not really concerned about cost right now, I just don't want junk fillament starting out. Eventually going to move to some nylon down the road after I get the hang with some less expensive material. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LGVjAbGjvIjvOFQsDi8lSK9-vy7GfGhgVP41sNffh6I/edit#gid=1679778390 I have used Hatchbox, Prusament, eSun, SunLu without issues. Some of Arfcoms Favorites will not fit the AMS, like Atomic. Some "Made for Prusa" filaments are also not compatible, and I would not be surprised if Prusa changes the spool size down the road for spite. |
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Posted: 3/7/2023 8:08:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mPisi]
[#23]
BL's own filament is pretty good too and they are tuned for it. eSun for me or Sunlu close behind for normal use if not trying to cheap out. The only spools that don't fit for me so far are the Fremover, they are too wide for the AMS. Not a big deal to feed in the back as a single roll. Some of the others are too large of a radius for the AMS lid to close, but they seem to work. I printed some AMS lid spacers which seal it but hold it up higher, so it doesn't drag on the larger spools.
My part last night finished fine. I put it back to normal speed (from Ludicrous) with about 4 hours left (since I wasn't going to be back soon) and can't tell the difference where it switched over. I set up a new profile with the Hoffman parameters except for normal X1C speeds, I will print on the defauly 100% speed unless I see problems. Also, when bringing in the Hoffman designs and their modifiers and support, select them all at once on the import step. Then confirm it is one group of multiple objects. Things will be located correctly. If you right-click on the model and say "Add Modifier" as the instructions say, my system will offset the modifier in some other place. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 3/7/2023 10:15:24 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PC-Tech: If you got the AMS use this link before buying as not all spools are compatible. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LGVjAbGjvIjvOFQsDi8lSK9-vy7GfGhgVP41sNffh6I/edit#gid=1679778390 I have used Hatchbox, Prusament, eSun, SunLu without issues. Some of Arfcoms Favorites will not fit the AMS, like Atomic. Some "Made for Prusa" filaments are also not compatible, and I would not be surprised if Prusa changes the spool size down the road for spite. 3D Fuel is red on the list but so far I've only had one spool that didn't fit due to width. I do have to leave the cover unlatched but I live in AZ so I'm not worried about humidity. I also limit the speed to 100mm/s. |
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Posted: 3/8/2023 4:41:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mPisi]
[#25]
Took me way too long to find the problem on this roll from IIIDMax, was obviously clunky in the AMS and kept giving my filament advancement tangle errors. I kept looking for something rubbing in the AMS, and eventually pulled the roll out to the external mount (while still running it through the AMS intake port with the lid cracked since the print was underway). But finally found there were 2 small plastic molding leftovers in the spool that were preventing smooth rotation in the AMS.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 3/12/2023 10:32:27 AM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 3/18/2023 11:28:58 AM EDT
[#27]
Those with the X1C, how does it work with printing larger Spools? I print a LOT of 5kg spools. Can you leave the AMS top open and just feed in the filament from overhead spool holders? Or?
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Posted: 3/18/2023 11:39:32 AM EDT
[#28]
You don't need the AMS at all with an external roll, it has a port on the back that can be from the AMS or direct from an external roll. There's a printable y-junction tube that even removes the need to take the bowden tube from the AMS on and off. If you still wanted AMS capability for multiple, then you could leave the lid open or drill small holes in the AMS lid, like a filament dryer. The AMS does use some powered rollers to help removing the filament from the feed tube (switching rolls or end of a print), so you may get a few retraction errosr when it can't push on a rope well enough.
X1C case has a peg to hang a smaller roll on the outside, I use it for some really big or small 1kg rolls that don't fit in the AMS. |
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Posted: 3/18/2023 12:49:11 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: You don't need the AMS at all with an external roll, it has a port on the back that can be from the AMS or direct from an external roll. There's a printable y-junction tube that even removes the need to take the bowden tube from the AMS on and off. If you still wanted AMS capability for multiple, then you could leave the lid open or drill small holes in the AMS lid, like a filament dryer. The AMS does use some powered rollers to help removing the filament from the feed tube (switching rolls or end of a print), so you may get a few retraction errosr when it can't push on a rope well enough. X1C case has a peg to hang a smaller roll on the outside, I use it for some really big or small 1kg rolls that don't fit in the AMS. Thanks for the info. Any info on max volumetric flow rate? Everyone loves to hype up the acceleration and print speed of these units but that's a worthless metric if I'm throttled by flow rate. I absolutely don't believe I can half my print speed vs my MK3S+. Is the slicer able to be used without having a unit, just so I can slice something to get an idea of timing? |
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Posted: 3/18/2023 2:06:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mPisi]
[#30]
Slicer is available: https://bambulab.com/en/download
Or send me an STL and I can check for you. Default settings, generic PLA is listed max at 12mm^3/s, Bambu Lab's own PLA has a special category at 21mm^3/s. Edit: but most folks think the generic settings are nerfed to get people to buy BL products. Generally you can run good generic PLA at BL settings. |
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Posted: 3/18/2023 3:12:38 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Slicer is available: https://bambulab.com/en/download Or send me an STL and I can check for you. Default settings, generic PLA is listed max at 12mm^3/s, Bambu Lab's own PLA has a special category at 21mm^3/s. Edit: but most folks think the generic settings are nerfed to get people to buy BL products. Generally you can run good generic PLA at BL settings. My MK3S+ is capable of 30... Something tells me this is going to be slower. 
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Posted: 3/18/2023 6:07:51 PM EDT
[#32]
Interesting, when I posted that a simple search showed me Prusa had 15 for the Mk3s+, so I was thinking the X1C was faster. I wonder how much X1C folks are getting up to if they push it over the factory settings. I haven't heard anyone say the X1C is slower unless your Prusa is really hot-rodded.
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Posted: 3/18/2023 6:09:58 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: My MK3S+ is capable of 30... Something tells me this is going to be slower. Don't forget the X1C has the lidar to set flow, so I'm not sure if what's in the app gets overwritten. This is what I know as I own a Prusa MK2 and the X1C. In real-world printing, the X1 is at least twice as fast. Can your MK3 print a Benchy in 24 min? Cause the X1C can, and right out of the box. It's 24 min's with calibration, you can bring it down to 17min without. My MK2 took an hour and twenty mins to do the same print. |
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Posted: 3/18/2023 6:23:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Interesting, when I posted that a simple search showed me Prusa had 15 for the Mk3s+, so I was thinking the X1C was faster. I wonder how much X1C folks are getting up to if they push it over the factory settings. I haven't heard anyone say the X1C is slower unless your Prusa is really hot-rodded. The stock heater and hotend sure. But for $179 you can get a Mosquito or even a mosquito magnum with a 50W heater and it ups capacity to 30 and 40mm³/s. I can quite easily print 1.25kg/day of filament per machine. The beauty of open source.  I was hoping the hype if it doubling or even tripling would be worth picking one up but 21mm³/s for PLA is laughably slow for a production printer. My 100% quality, saleable commercial parts in PETG are printed at 28.66mm³/s. So I guess I'll just stick to the MK3S+ models I have. ETA: Downloaded the slicer. Sliced the same file with the same settings I use today (in terms of perimeters, layers, infill, etc etc to get an "apples to apples" vs. today. It sliced and came back 6 hours and 25 minutes for my most common print. I currently do it in 5 hours and 13 minutes. So the nearly instant acceleration isn't enough to overcome the throughput bottleneck. I have reached out to them to see if they offer or are working on improved heaters or nozzles to allow better throughput. If I can get up to 25mm³/s on PETG that would cut print time down to 3 hours and 53 minutes. Now that would be nice. |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/18/2023 8:30:51 PM EDT
[#35]
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Posted: 3/18/2023 8:38:50 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tnertb: Are you okay? |
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Posted: 3/18/2023 9:00:24 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PC-Tech: Don't forget the X1C has the lidar to set flow, so I'm not sure if what's in the app gets overwritten. This is what I know as I own a Prusa MK2 and the X1C. In real-world printing, the X1 is at least twice as fast. Can your MK3 print a Benchy in 24 min? Cause the X1C can, and right out of the box. It's 24 min's with calibration, you can bring it down to 17min without. My MK2 took an hour and twenty mins to do the same print. I can see the benefit of this setup if you're running smaller nozzles and are printing tiny trinkets where the volumetric flow is not a concern. I can ALSO see the argument that you could cut layer height in half and probably not lose much in terms of speed, but for all out "horsepower" of laying down filament, it seems to be lacking. Slice Engineering doesn't have some secret sauce and even an Ender with an E3D Volcano, which is all of $50 in parts can lay down 50mm3/s or more, and so the Bambu's 10 is a glaring shortcoming if that is TRULY the limitation. I'd be curious if anyone has a test or example of real world throughput of a high quality PETG like Atomic, etc. |
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Posted: 3/18/2023 10:07:57 PM EDT
[#38]
Yeah, you're a little bit different than the average X1C customer. It's more of a high-end hobbyist focus, not commercial where absolute production per time is important. If I was a pro I'd probably have a Prusa too, just to be absolutely sure to be able to get parts etc.
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Posted: 3/21/2023 7:57:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#39]
So I got a response from Bambu Labs.
I asked:  And the response:  So glad I waited 2.5 days (which btw, their site guarantees 48 hour turnaround time) for a moronic answer that has nothing to do with the question I asked. Their technical support doesn't even know what volumetric flow rate is, let alone what their printer is capable of. Embarrassing. |
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Posted: 3/21/2023 1:38:55 PM EDT
[#40]
6-month old customer service org from a foreign country, yep that's about right
 There have been a number of CS problems reported all over. |
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Posted: 3/24/2023 6:09:54 PM EDT
[#41]
Had a power outage today with a couple false start bobbles. I realized my outbuilding with the printer in it isn't covered by the house generator. Whomp whomp. I need to get going on the solar setup for that shed.
But it jammed itself pretty good, although it also freed itself once power was restored for real. I think it was 1) power outage stops hotend on top of the print, as it cools it fuses to the object. 2) bed cools and releases 3) power comes back briefly, hotend starts up and rehomes itself/clean the nozzle, dragging the object and two neighbors up. 4) power out again and left in this position. It did not have an error about being stuck. When I turned it back on, it's startup movements dislodged everything and it wasn't really jammed. But just reinforced how I think it can recover from a few minutes power out, but not too much longer.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/24/2023 6:10:17 PM EDT
[#42]
Had a power outage today with a couple false start bobbles. I realized my outbuilding with the printer in it isn't covered by the house generator. Whomp whomp. I need to get going on the solar setup for that shed.
But it jammed itself pretty good, although it also freed itself once power was restored for real. I think it was 1) power outage stops hotend on top of the print, as it cools it fuses to the object. 2) bed cools and releases 3) power comes back briefly, hotend starts up and rehomes itself/clean the nozzle, dragging the object and two neighbors up. 4) power out again and left in this position. It did not have an error about being stuck. When I turned it back on, it's startup movements dislodged everything and it wasn't really jammed. But just reinforced how I think it can recover from a few minutes power out, but not too much longer. Attached File |
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Posted: 3/24/2023 7:41:20 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mPisi: Had a power outage today with a couple false start bobbles. I realized my outbuilding with the printer in it isn't covered by the house generator. Whomp whomp. I need to get going on the solar setup for that shed. But it jammed itself pretty good, although it also freed itself once power was restored for real. I think it was 1) power outage stops hotend on top of the print, as it cools it fuses to the object. 2) bed cools and releases 3) power comes back briefly, hotend starts up and rehomes itself/clean the nozzle, dragging the object and two neighbors up. 4) power out again and left in this position. It did not have an error about being stuck. When I turned it back on, it's startup movements dislodged everything and it wasn't really jammed. But just reinforced how I think it can recover from a few minutes power out, but not too much longer. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/13081/PXL_20230324_183753937_jpg-2757564.JPG You should invest in a UPS.
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 3/26/2023 5:02:05 PM EDT
[#44]
I can happily report that the AMS has no problem detecting an empty spool and moving to the next one. I started with a near empty spool just to see what would happen. This apparently only works if you have the same color/material selected for both spools. I haven't tested that yet.
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Posted: 3/27/2023 12:21:41 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tim_AZ: I can happily report that the AMS has no problem detecting an empty spool and moving to the next one. I started with a near empty spool just to see what would happen. This apparently only works if you have the same color/material selected for both spools. I haven't tested that yet. Yes it works pretty well, luckily you can just tell it what each slot is coded as, it doesn't check. Good way to get rid of little remnants of spools. Early on I did have one error where I had red in slot 1 and green in slot 2. Had been printing with both. Then coded red as green using the AMS screen in order to do the switcheroo. Real green ran out, but it did not switch to the red pretending to be green. I can only assume since it was printing as red and wasn't removed, so the re-code didn't take for switcheroo purposes. So now when setting up a switcheroo I remove the 2nd rolls from the AMS feed, then reinsert and code as the intended color. That way is sees it as a new roll in that color. (or I may could have just screwed up the color buttons, I wish they followed some real pattern and had some other common colors like orange). |
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Posted: 3/29/2023 9:14:13 PM EDT
[#46]
Here is a real professional thought:
 Bambu Lab x1 Carbon 3D Printer: Review & First Prints |
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Posted: 3/31/2023 10:07:29 AM EDT
[#47]
does anyone have both a X1(C) and a Prusa MK3S(+)?
how is the quality difference? what about dimensional accuracy of parts? |
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Posted: 3/31/2023 1:20:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PC-Tech]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Panther1911: does anyone have both a X1(C) and a Prusa MK3S(+)? how is the quality difference? what about dimensional accuracy of parts? The dimensional accuracy of parts depends a lot on the filament. ABS and ASA shrink by about 2~5% I think. A lot less with PLA and PETG. I had the MK2 which had very really good tolerances. I say the X1C I have is even better. I have not tested it though. Print-in-place parts, that I have downloaded seem to have tolerances built-in, always print too loose. Everything I have designed and printed with it seems to just fit. I can print you a sample of something from my X1C and mail it to you if you like. Nothing too big, please. |
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Posted: 3/31/2023 1:24:32 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PC-Tech: The dimensional accuracy of parts depends a lot on the filament. ABS and ASA shrink by about 2~5% I think. A lot less with PLA and PETG. I had the MK2 which had very really good tolerances. I say the X1C I have is even better. I have not tested it though. Print-in-place parts, that I have downloaded seem to have tolerances built-in, always print too loose. Everything I have designed and printed with it seems to just fit. I can print you a sample of something from my X1C and mail it to you if you like. Nothing too big, please. Why not big? It prints fast, doesn't it?  Sorry, had to.
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Posted: 3/31/2023 1:27:50 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Why not big? It prints fast, doesn't it? Sorry, had to. It's more the shipping cost than the size. The post office is a rip-off these days. Whatever fits in the small priority box is my limit on sending free stuff. lol |
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