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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:06:38 AM EDT
[#1]
Do you use the kind that mixes with water and you apply with a garden hose or the dry with a spreader?
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:07:28 AM EDT
[#2]
Same problem here and the Scott's weed and feed is a joke!!!!. I am gonna talk to my landscaper and see what he recommends to kill all that shit.
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:08:51 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you use the kind that mixes with water and you apply with a garden hose or the dry with a spreader? Spreader. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:09:08 AM EDT
[#4]
+1. I have come to the realization that I just need to pay a professional.
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:09:32 AM EDT
[#5]
You know it is all green when you mow it .
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:09:56 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Have used Scott's weed and feed for the past couple years. (since we bought the house) and my lawn is still as crappy and weed infested as the day we bought it. Dandilions? Check. Chickweed? Oh yeah. White clover? Yes. Ground ivey? Check. Crab grass? Yep. Prickly lettuce? Yes sir. Wild onion? Yep, found some of that yesterday. And a few others that I can't identify. Does anyone use Tru Green? What does it cost per year, and how do you like the service? I am in the same boat brother. I got a new mower and now keep it short enough that at least it is green (which is distinct here in Texas). Looks great from a distance 
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:10:16 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you use the kind that mixes with water and you apply with a garden hose or the dry with a spreader? This. Its not the product, it has to be how you are applying it. I use it with great results but its not a 1 shot and done deal. When do apply it? When do you put down your grass seed? You should do both in late fall and then Feb/Mar. You also have to wait after you put the weed and feed down before you can do grass seed. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:11:35 AM EDT
[#8]
Is it getting watered in properly or rained on within a few days?
I use it and it readily kills most of the weeds within a week or so. I use the granular with a walk behind spreader. Also, be sure you are using the corret settings that are on the bag. Different spreaders use different settings. I just use the Scott spreader so I know it is correct. Only issue I have with it is it makes me have to mow twice as often. (Centipede) I wish they just made the "Weed" without the "Feed" |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:12:23 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am in the same boat brother. I got a new mower and now keep it short enough that at least it is green (which is distinct here in Texas). Looks great from a distance
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Have used Scott's weed and feed for the past couple years. (since we bought the house) and my lawn is still as crappy and weed infested as the day we bought it. Dandilions? Check. Chickweed? Oh yeah. White clover? Yes. Ground ivey? Check. Crab grass? Yep. Prickly lettuce? Yes sir. Wild onion? Yep, found some of that yesterday. And a few others that I can't identify. Does anyone use Tru Green? What does it cost per year, and how do you like the service? I am in the same boat brother. I got a new mower and now keep it short enough that at least it is green (which is distinct here in Texas). Looks great from a distance
Ha yup same boat. One of my neighbors actually said fuck it years ago and white rocked his front yard :). |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:12:24 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+1. I have come to the realization that I just need to pay a professional. I have a little bit of yard envy from my next door neighbor, his grass is all full, with ZERO weeds. I know he pays some company to come out and tend to it. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:13:02 AM EDT
[#11]
Scott's weed and feed isn't really your best option according to what i have learned. It is harmful to trees.
A better approach would be to use a quality fertilizer for just that purpose four times a year, then attack the weeds separately. You should look into pre and post emergent but understand timing of application is critical. Pre-emergent herbicides are designed for application before the targeted weed germinates, and are an effective preventative method for controlling weeds. Crabgrass preventer is a good example. Pre-emergents establish a chemical barrier that will not kill established plants, but will prevent weeds from successfully growing. The protective barrier breaks down in six to eight weeks. Use of a pre-emergent, therefore, requires proper timing to be effective – apply them very early in the season. Be aware that pre-emergents can harm some desirable ornamental plants and turf grasses. As always, read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Post-emergent herbicides are designed to attack weeds that are already established and growing. All of the contact weed killers are post-emergents. Apply post-emergents later in the growing season, after weeds are established but before they have gone to seed. The timing of pre- and post-emergent herbicide application is critical. Applying them too later or too early is basically a waste of time and the herbicide. Last step would be a general weed killer used sparingly to kill concentrated pockets of weeds. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:13:32 AM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:18:04 AM EDT
[#13]
2, 4-D is what you seek.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:22:02 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2, 4-D is what you seek. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile This, or curtail. Dry spread herbicides are a bad joke. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:22:53 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2, 4-D is what you seek. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile In TX, you have to have sprayer's license to buy them. OK, you don't. Good thing I live close to OK border. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:31:13 AM EDT
[#16]
I will jump in here as the owner of a lawn/landscape company. When using a granular weed and feed the lawn (grass and weeds) needs to be wet so the product adheres to the leaf. It is a contact herbicide, has no activity through the roots. You do not want any rain for 24 hours. You will need more than on application, about 6-8 weeks apart. Once you get the weeds under control you can use a one gallon hand sprayer to spot spray. Best time to control broadleaf weeds is September and October.
EDIT: call Trugreen and ask for a price to do one app of fertilizer/weed control. After that you should be fine on your own. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:31:23 AM EDT
[#17]
Diesel applied from a pump sprayer at night will fix the envy problem
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:33:52 AM EDT
[#18]
Weed B Gone.
Mix it 2 ounces per gallon and spray the little weeds to death. Works in my yard. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:35:15 AM EDT
[#19]
Lesco
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:36:25 AM EDT
[#20]
You need to get the lawn grass to be the dominant plant in your lawn otherwise the weeds will win, weed and feed or not.
Start by checking your soil. What's in it and what isn't. Weeds grow great in places that lawn grasses don't. Compacted dirt, no organics, too much thatch, wrong pH, etc. all of that will keep lawn grass in check. My last place had a quarter acre of lawn/weeds. I aerated, added soil amendments, tore out the big patches of weeds, reseeded those spots, and weeded by hand the first year I was there. The next year, I did the consumer weed and feed routine. On the third year, it looked like what Mech2007 posted. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:36:49 AM EDT
[#21]
Southern States did carry a broadleaf and weed killer grandular. This was not a fertilizer. It worked great. I see it advertised but the two local to me hasn't had any in 2 years. I walk in with the sales flyer showing the stuff on sale and I get the
 everytime.
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:38:07 AM EDT
[#22]
Battleship iii, mix according to label. I fired my lawn care companies and do everything myself now. lawn looks much better and shit isnt sprayed where it shouldnt be. i have a pull behind sprayer to apply this and also do foliar feedings.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/battleship-iii-herbicide-25-gallon-p-1502.html |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:41:10 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You know it is all green when you mow it . |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:41:59 AM EDT
[#24]
I learned years ago that it's better to spray. Ortho Weed B Gone works fine. Once the whole lawn is done it only takes spot spraying a couple of times per year to keep all that stuff under control. I don't know any landscape service who uses granular wee and feed. ymmv
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:42:49 AM EDT
[#25]
Same problem here. I found a chemical Sulfentrazone will kill almost everything you listed, and hasn't yet seemed to harm my grass.
I bought a small bottle and did some spot tests in the backyard, kills the weeks you listed (even sedges) in about a week. I talked with a landscaper to told me to spray in Sept/Oct, fertilize as well. Then spray again in very early spring, right when you see the first weed pop up. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:44:14 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Battleship iii, mix according to label. I fired my lawn care companies and do everything myself now. lawn looks much better and shit isnt sprayed where it shouldnt be. i have a pull behind sprayer to apply this and also do foliar feedings. http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/battleship-iii-herbicide-25-gallon-p-1502.html  |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:45:06 AM EDT
[#27]
I have great results with it - you do have to follow the instructions lighting wetting the lawn, applying the weed-n-feed, and then cutting the water off/no rain for two days.
My neighbor's lawns on both sides are 20-30% weeds (renters) and there's not a weed in mine. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:45:25 AM EDT
[#28]
The .Gov has forced the weed killers to be nuetered and they all are weak,
Even the lawn services cannot use the chemicals they used to. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:48:19 AM EDT
[#29]
Paging ar-jedi
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:48:45 AM EDT
[#30]
Shrug.
Scott's works for me. I apply it in the early spring and in summer. A month after putting the weed and feed down, I'll brodcast some grass seed. It keeps the weeds burned back, and the lawn full and a deep green. My lawn is about 10,000 sq ft in the back yard and is irrigated with gear driven sprinklers. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:49:07 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you use the kind that mixes with water and you apply with a garden hose or the dry with a spreader? This is the kind you need to use. If you read the directions on the granules, it says to apply to a wet lawn so the granules"stick" to the weeds. FUCK that. Even when wet, I don't see much sticking to the weeds. I went with liquid this year and it worked out much better than all the weed n feed I've used in the past. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:51:17 AM EDT
[#32]
This is a mix of Scott's and Anderson's fertilizers. I spot pull weeds as Im mowing (dandelion here and there) and use a rotary spreader (I ditched the drop spreader.) I keep the grass mowed high instead of butching it to promote good, healthy roots. I add water when we start getting behind in the monthly avg rainfall.
I gave up trying to kill weeds and instead focused on promoting a healthy lawn to push out the weeds. I found that keeping up on the applications is key. Missing or delaying one can have pretty big results. And I think the most important application is probably the late fall feeding after I do all of the leaves. The lawn seems to 'wake up' almost completely weed free and super lush. 
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Posted: 4/18/2015 10:55:19 AM EDT
[#33]
2-4-D. It's the active ingredient in many of the broadleaf weed killers. You don't need to buy Ortho or any other name brand. 2-4-D should be the main ingredient listed, even in the generic brands.
If you want to kill everything, look for glyphosate. That's the active ingredient in Round Up and you can get that generically as well. Farm Supply type stores have these types in generic brands frequently in heavier concentrations and for less money than "garden departments" at the box stores. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:14:54 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Have used Scott's weed and feed for the past couple years. (since we bought the house) and my lawn is still as crappy and weed infested as the day we bought it. Dandilions? Check. Chickweed? Oh yeah. White clover? Yes. Ground ivey? Check. Crab grass? Yep. Prickly lettuce? Yes sir. Wild onion? Yep, found some of that yesterday. And a few others that I can't identify. Does anyone use Tru Green? What does it cost per year, and how do you like the service? That shit is a joke. Use a selective weed killer from a sprayer. Crabgrass is damn near impossible to kill, though. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:16:09 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is a mix of Scott's and Anderson's fertilizers. I spot pull weeds as Im mowing (dandelion here and there) and use a rotary spreader (I ditched the drop spreader.) I keep the grass mowed high instead of butching it to promote good, healthy roots. I add water when we start getting behind in the monthly avg rainfall. I gave up trying to kill weeds and instead focused on promoting a healthy lawn to push out the weeds. I found that keeping up on the applications is key. Missing or delaying one can have pretty big results. And I think the most important application is probably the late fall feeding after I do all of the leaves. The lawn seems to 'wake up' almost completely weed free and super lush. http://www.go-itech.com/lawn.jpg Thats a very nice looking lawn.
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:16:37 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That shit is a joke. Use a selective weed killer from a sprayer. Crabgrass is damn near impossible to kill, though. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Have used Scott's weed and feed for the past couple years. (since we bought the house) and my lawn is still as crappy and weed infested as the day we bought it. Dandilions? Check. Chickweed? Oh yeah. White clover? Yes. Ground ivey? Check. Crab grass? Yep. Prickly lettuce? Yes sir. Wild onion? Yep, found some of that yesterday. And a few others that I can't identify. Does anyone use Tru Green? What does it cost per year, and how do you like the service? That shit is a joke. Use a selective weed killer from a sprayer. Crabgrass is damn near impossible to kill, though. I am killing it with baking soda, but St. Augustine grass is salt tolerant. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:16:53 AM EDT
[#37]
I call my lawn "The Weeds that I mow". Actually the kid mows them, but they are still weeds
I will probably need to mow in the next week or so. Turned green and started growing last week 
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:19:16 AM EDT
[#38]
#weedslivesmatter!
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:22:29 AM EDT
[#39]
I have 2.5 acres of a weedy lawn. I use roundup for general landscaping and as a substitute for weed eating.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:30:22 AM EDT
[#40]
anybody got anything for annual bluegrass...been here a few years and it went from nothing to 3/4 of my back yard in one season
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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:39:47 AM EDT
[#41]
In my amateur experience, the drop/rotary spreader stuff does dick for weeds but fertilizes pretty well. I agree that it would probably work better if I did everything right but ain't nobody got time fo that.
The stuff you connect a hose to and spray on the other hand works quite well. The first application halts them and the second seems to eradicate any survivors. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:18:04 PM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:30:16 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am jelly.  Quote HistoryMe thinks the link name includes a clue.... Honestly if this was out forever home I'd put down landscape rocks long ago. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:36:54 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Me thinks the link name includes a clue.... Honestly if this was out forever home I'd put down landscape rocks long ago. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Me thinks the link name includes a clue.... Honestly if this was out forever home I'd put down landscape rocks long ago. LOL - but this gives me an idea. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:41:32 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I will jump in here as the owner of a lawn/landscape company. When using a granular weed and feed the lawn (grass and weeds) needs to be wet so the product adheres to the leaf. It is a contact herbicide, has no activity through the roots. You do not want any rain for 24 hours. You will need more than on application, about 6-8 weeks apart. Once you get the weeds under control you can use a one gallon hand sprayer to spot spray. Best time to control broadleaf weeds is September and October. EDIT: call Trugreen and ask for a price to do one app of fertilizer/weed control. After that you should be fine on your own. When I cared more I did this method with Scotts and I think Ortho to hand spray. It worked great but I've tken a break for the last couple of years and only treat once per year so my yard looks OK. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:44:27 PM EDT
[#46]
Quoted:
Have used Scott's weed and feed for the past couple years. (since we bought the house) and my lawn is still as crappy and weed infested as the day we bought it. Dandilions? Check. Chickweed? Oh yeah. White clover? Yes. Ground ivey? Check. Crab grass? Yep. Prickly lettuce? Yes sir. Wild onion? Yep, found some of that yesterday. And a few others that I can't identify. Does anyone use Tru Green? What does it cost per year, and how do you like the service? Chickweed, Clover, and Ground Ivy can be tough to kill with products containing 2-4-D. A lot of the time it burns to top vegetation off but doesn't kill the plant so it grows back. You need to use a specialty spray for them. Like this stuff. It contains Triclopyr http://www.ortho.com/smg/goprod/ortho-weed-b-gon-chickweed-clover-oxalis-killer/prod70214 |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:48:41 PM EDT
[#47]
Local pool guy (going out of business) just got busted for dumping 500lbs. of sodium hydroxide (lye) in a public dumpster, that should help with the weeds
or hooker disposal. 
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:53:01 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Scott's weed and feed isn't really your best option according to what i have learned. It is harmful to trees. A better approach would be to use a quality fertilizer for just that purpose four times a year, then attack the weeds separately. You should look into pre and post emergent but understand timing of application is critical. Pre-emergent herbicides are designed for application before the targeted weed germinates, and are an effective preventative method for controlling weeds. Crabgrass preventer is a good example. Pre-emergents establish a chemical barrier that will not kill established plants, but will prevent weeds from successfully growing. The protective barrier breaks down in six to eight weeks. Use of a pre-emergent, therefore, requires proper timing to be effective – apply them very early in the season. Be aware that pre-emergents can harm some desirable ornamental plants and turf grasses. As always, read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Post-emergent herbicides are designed to attack weeds that are already established and growing. All of the contact weed killers are post-emergents. Apply post-emergents later in the growing season, after weeds are established but before they have gone to seed. The timing of pre- and post-emergent herbicide application is critical. Applying them too later or too early is basically a waste of time and the herbicide. Last step would be a general weed killer used sparingly to kill concentrated pockets of weeds. This. My yard was fucked when I bought the house last year. Full of crabgrass. Paid a pro to weed and feed in the fall and put down pre-ermergent & fertilizer mix with a spreader this spring. Looks great. Still need to put down topsoil and seed some patches that were pure crabgrass. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:56:10 PM EDT
[#49]
It took me 3 years of Scotts (yellow bag) to clear out all the shit weeds....
You also have to plant grass seed where its sparse to choke out potential new weed growth.....and water the lawn. |
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Posted: 4/18/2015 3:57:09 PM EDT
[#50]
Quoted:
Dandilions? Check. Chickweed? Oh yeah. White clover? Yes. Ground ivey? Check. Crab grass? Yep. Prickly lettuce? Yes sir. Wild onion? Yep, found some of that yesterday. And a few others that I can't identify. 
Looks like you have much of this chart covered! |
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