![Bravo Company BCM](/images/2016/banners/sticky/BCM_StickyBarAd_225x40.gif)
![Login](/images/2016/spacer.gif)
Posted: 10/20/2015 10:01:10 AM EDT
My house was built in 1986. Lately I've got one circuit that seems to be bad. Light flickers, alarm clock flickers, I occasionally hear buzzing from a particular outlet (usually when someone else plugs something in or turns something on). Is this thing heading towards an electrical fire? Anything I can do or should I just start calling electricians?
|
|
|
You might want to look into this now or at least shut the breaker off
|
|
|
|
pull out that outlet.
likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. |
|
lol
shut the breaker off and check the outlets. if you see lose connections tighten them. if everything looks good replace the outlet. they are under a buck i would probably do it regardless if it still does it call an electrician. |
|
|
Thanks. shut off the breaker for that circuit for now, I'll try pulling the outlet out after work and seeing if I can find the short.
|
|
|
Quoted: pull out that outlet. likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: pull out that outlet. likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. This is the reply that matters. Quoted: Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Probably back-stabbed too. I sleep better at night since ridding my house of all of its original tract home wiring. |
|
It is a little frightening to me that the first thought of some, when confronted with sounds of arcing in the walls of their house, is to get on GD in arfcom for advice.
|
|
|
Check insurance is up to date, turn everything on, go out of town for weekend Profit!
Seriously have a professional check that out. |
|
|
Quoted:
Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() View Quote Ok, home now. Thanks for the responses everyone. I pulled the outlet apart, sure enough it's crispified on one side. Insulation burned off the wiring, melted the plastic housing a bit, etc. I unscrewed the two wires that were burned, separated them by about six inches, and flipped the breaker back on. Now a couple of other outlets and a couple of light switches don't work. Is this what jonyng called a "pass through connection" and if so, WTF do I do about it now? Wife's frustrated that there's no light in the master bedroom. ![]() |
|
Quoted:
This is the reply that matters. Probably back-stabbed too. I sleep better at night since ridding my house of all of its original tract home wiring. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
pull out that outlet. likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. This is the reply that matters. Quoted:
Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Probably back-stabbed too. I sleep better at night since ridding my house of all of its original tract home wiring. I couldn't prove it, but I truly believe I lost my garage and Jeep to a back-stabbed outlet. Fire Inspector thought so too, but couldn't prove it either. The spring connection can loosen with time. |
|
well try a new outlet. It's better than having firelight in the Master bedroom with no fireplace
|
|
Quoted: It is a little frightening to me that the first thought of some, when confronted with sounds of arcing in the walls of their house, is to get on GD in arfcom for advice. View Quote The level of concern for this minor shit is comical to me. 30 yr old house? Worn out plug, bad splice, or loose wire. And no, you don't need to call an electrician unless your mechanical ability is 0% |
|
Quoted: I couldn't prove it, but I truly believe I lost my garage and Jeep to a back-stabbed outlet. Fire Inspector thought so too, but couldn't prove it either. The spring connection can loosen with time. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: pull out that outlet. likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. This is the reply that matters. Quoted: Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Probably back-stabbed too. I sleep better at night since ridding my house of all of its original tract home wiring. I couldn't prove it, but I truly believe I lost my garage and Jeep to a back-stabbed outlet. Fire Inspector thought so too, but couldn't prove it either. The spring connection can loosen with time. Exactly how does a spring loosen when it never moves? |
|
|
Quoted:
Ok, home now. Thanks for the responses everyone. I pulled the outlet apart, sure enough it's crispified on one side. Insulation burned off the wiring, melted the plastic housing a bit, etc. I unscrewed the two wires that were burned, separated them by about six inches, and flipped the breaker back on. Now a couple of other outlets and a couple of light switches don't work. Is this what jonyng called a "pass through connection" and if so, WTF do I do about it now? Wife's frustrated that there's no light in the master bedroom. ![]() View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok, home now. Thanks for the responses everyone. I pulled the outlet apart, sure enough it's crispified on one side. Insulation burned off the wiring, melted the plastic housing a bit, etc. I unscrewed the two wires that were burned, separated them by about six inches, and flipped the breaker back on. Now a couple of other outlets and a couple of light switches don't work. Is this what jonyng called a "pass through connection" and if so, WTF do I do about it now? Wife's frustrated that there's no light in the master bedroom. ![]() Turn breaker off. Cut off burned wire strip new ends install new outlet. Not sure why ud turn the breaker back on and leave wires hanging out of the wall but whatever. It's pretty normal if you remove one outlet in a circuit the others on the same circuit will stop working. Nowwith the breaker still on lick the burned wires to confirm they are hot, go to your breaker box remove the breaker and shove a piece of copperpjpe in there. Mix a pound of salt with a gallon of water and poor it on your feet and then shove yohr dick in the copper pipe that is in the breaker. All of your electrical wiring will be transformed in to gold and virgins |
|
Quoted:
Ok, home now. Thanks for the responses everyone. I pulled the outlet apart, sure enough it's crispified on one side. Insulation burned off the wiring, melted the plastic housing a bit, etc. I unscrewed the two wires that were burned, separated them by about six inches, and flipped the breaker back on. Now a couple of other outlets and a couple of light switches don't work. Is this what jonyng called a "pass through connection" and if so, WTF do I do about it now? Wife's frustrated that there's no light in the master bedroom. ![]() View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok, home now. Thanks for the responses everyone. I pulled the outlet apart, sure enough it's crispified on one side. Insulation burned off the wiring, melted the plastic housing a bit, etc. I unscrewed the two wires that were burned, separated them by about six inches, and flipped the breaker back on. Now a couple of other outlets and a couple of light switches don't work. Is this what jonyng called a "pass through connection" and if so, WTF do I do about it now? Wife's frustrated that there's no light in the master bedroom. ![]() A pic would help. As no one else seems to be offering help, I will--but remember, I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. We will need to know if the insulation on the wires is too far gone. If it is you will need to do MUCH more--as in replace the wire. If it can be cut back to the undamaged portion, do so, and add a "pigtail"--which is new wire. You want a total of about 8" total for all wires in the box. Add a new commercial grade (NOT the $0.78 cheapies) and tighten the screws securely. DO NOT use the "stab ins" on the back. Also, be sure to match the wire size if you have to make a pigtail--hopefully 12 ga. You can tell this by the outlet itself. A circuit using 14 ga (smaller wire, only capable of handling 15 amps) will have the two openings for the prongs strictly vertical. BTW 15 amp circuits are very common in most homes, though codes will dictate this, and vary around the country. Mostly homes built to order for knowledgeable buyers commonly have 20 amp circuits, as they are much better, and not much more expensive. A circuit with 12 ga wire can handle 20 amps and will have a horizontal slit making a sideways "T" shape on one prong opening. It is not for any kind of special plug, but rather only to indicate a 20 amp circuit. Match the new outlet to this, as well as the new wire. Buy good (metal insert) wire nuts if making a pigtail! Also, twist the wires (matching colors) together with a plier before you twist on the wire nut. Make sure all wire ends are properly stripped and the same length after twisting with the plier. If all of the wire is burned you are screwed and will have to call an electrician. Then a drywaller. Then a painter. The reason for this is the wire will have to be replaced in both directions to the next boxes on each side of this box. This is why you have the other boxes dead. DO NOT splice wire inside the wall by only enlarging the hole around this box! All splices MUST be inside a box!! |
|
Quoted:
So magazines loaded over time won't perform well because springs can loosen with time? Exactly how does a spring loosen when it never moves? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
pull out that outlet. likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. This is the reply that matters. Quoted:
Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Probably back-stabbed too. I sleep better at night since ridding my house of all of its original tract home wiring. I couldn't prove it, but I truly believe I lost my garage and Jeep to a back-stabbed outlet. Fire Inspector thought so too, but couldn't prove it either. The spring connection can loosen with time. Exactly how does a spring loosen when it never moves? A back stabbed outlet doesn't utilize a spring in the usual sense for the connection. It's more like a miniature Chinese finger cuff grip with a small tab gripping the solid conductor. It's listed a pressure connection by UL. As the years pass, thousands of heating and cooling cycles of the marginal connection caused by relatively high current cause the connection to loosen and fail. They then need replaced, hopefully before they cause a fire. |
|
Quoted:
So magazines loaded over time won't perform well because springs can loosen with time? Exactly how does a spring loosen when it never moves? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
pull out that outlet. likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. This is the reply that matters. Quoted:
Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Probably back-stabbed too. I sleep better at night since ridding my house of all of its original tract home wiring. I couldn't prove it, but I truly believe I lost my garage and Jeep to a back-stabbed outlet. Fire Inspector thought so too, but couldn't prove it either. The spring connection can loosen with time. Exactly how does a spring loosen when it never moves? It's heated and cooled every day since 1986 |
|
In electrical, a circuit is created with 2 wires. A line (hot, commonly black) and a return (neutral, commonly white). For safety a third wire is involved, a ground (green).
The circuit is completed when a device that uses alternating current (AC) is plugged in and draws power to run its motor, electronics etc. If you have disconnected the wires and they are sitting unterminated, then everything down the line (think daisy chain) has neither leg of the circuit, hot or neutral. The easiest way to think about it is: everything connected to that Circuit Breaker is daisy chained. [CB] ===.=====.=====:=====:====. XXX ====:===.====. So looking at my crude diagram, the XXX is your unplugged outlet. Everything to the right of the break in the chain is without hot/neutral, thus without power. Most likely a loose connection at the device you pulled out caused arcing. Possibly somewhere on that circuit you have a fan or motor driven device that is pulling too many amps thus over drawing for the rating of your wire gauge. There can be several causes, the most common with your symptom is a loose connection. I would look how far back the damage is to the wire and insulation. You may need to re-pull some romex (preferably 12 gauge) to terminate. Most likely you will also need a new receptacle/outlet. Keep in mind the dangers and liabilities of electrical work. If you have a house fire and they find home grown electrical repairs to be the cause - you may not be able to collect insurance. More importantly the danger to you and those you love. If you feel uncomfortable, calling a licenses and bonded electrician is the best idea to prevent future heartache. Good luck. |
|
Wire looks fine to me but I'm not an electrician.
It doesn't look melted past where it appears to have arced. Trim it back, get a new outlet and move on with your life. Disclaimer: You probably shouldn't do any of that. |
|
Pigtail that box, install a new outlet, and then get to work doing the rest of the house the same way. Ever hear of the Beverly Hills Supper Club? An arcing outlet got that one going. Sure, it was aluminum wire but that's not entirely the point.
|
|
In the event that there are other loose wires in your recpetacles or switches that coudl cause similar problems and you do not plan to replace every singel oen of them, you may look into replacing your breakers with AFCI (Arc-Fault Circuit Interruptors). If they detect arcing, they'll trip before the walls catch on fire
![]() |
|
You found the one. Now fix it and realize you have a life safety project for the rest of the home. A few boxes of,outlets and some time. It is easy.
|
|
Damn you got lucky hearing it. Wont hurt to check all of the outlets in the house.
I changed most of the outlets in my house last year. Is it bad I used the push in slots instead of screws on most of them? ETA why worry about advice here, there has to be dozens of electricians that are members. |
|
Quoted: A pic would help. As no one else seems to be offering help, I will--but remember, I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. We will need to know if the insulation on the wires is too far gone. If it is you will need to do MUCH more--as in replace the wire. If it can be cut back to the undamaged portion, do so, and add a "pigtail"--which is new wire. You want a total of about 8" total for all wires in the box. Add a new commercial grade (NOT the $0.78 cheapies) and tighten the screws securely. DO NOT use the "stab ins" on the back. Also, be sure to match the wire size if you have to make a pigtail--hopefully 12 ga. You can tell this by the outlet itself. A circuit using 14 ga (smaller wire, only capable of handling 15 amps) will have the two openings for the prongs strictly vertical. BTW 15 amp circuits are very common in most homes, though codes will dictate this, and vary around the country. Mostly homes built to order for knowledgeable buyers commonly have 20 amp circuits, as they are much better, and not much more expensive. A circuit with 12 ga wire can handle 20 amps and will have a horizontal slit making a sideways "T" shape on one prong opening. It is not for any kind of special plug, but rather only to indicate a 20 amp circuit. Match the new outlet to this, as well as the new wire. Buy good (metal insert) wire nuts if making a pigtail! Also, twist the wires (matching colors) together with a plier before you twist on the wire nut. Make sure all wire ends are properly stripped and the same length after twisting with the plier. If all of the wire is burned you are screwed and will have to call an electrician. Then a drywaller. Then a painter. The reason for this is the wire will have to be replaced in both directions to the next boxes on each side of this box. This is why you have the other boxes dead. DO NOT splice wire inside the wall by only enlarging the hole around this box! All splices MUST be inside a box!! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok, home now. Thanks for the responses everyone. I pulled the outlet apart, sure enough it's crispified on one side. Insulation burned off the wiring, melted the plastic housing a bit, etc. I unscrewed the two wires that were burned, separated them by about six inches, and flipped the breaker back on. Now a couple of other outlets and a couple of light switches don't work. Is this what jonyng called a "pass through connection" and if so, WTF do I do about it now? Wife's frustrated that there's no light in the master bedroom. ![]() A pic would help. As no one else seems to be offering help, I will--but remember, I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. We will need to know if the insulation on the wires is too far gone. If it is you will need to do MUCH more--as in replace the wire. If it can be cut back to the undamaged portion, do so, and add a "pigtail"--which is new wire. You want a total of about 8" total for all wires in the box. Add a new commercial grade (NOT the $0.78 cheapies) and tighten the screws securely. DO NOT use the "stab ins" on the back. Also, be sure to match the wire size if you have to make a pigtail--hopefully 12 ga. You can tell this by the outlet itself. A circuit using 14 ga (smaller wire, only capable of handling 15 amps) will have the two openings for the prongs strictly vertical. BTW 15 amp circuits are very common in most homes, though codes will dictate this, and vary around the country. Mostly homes built to order for knowledgeable buyers commonly have 20 amp circuits, as they are much better, and not much more expensive. A circuit with 12 ga wire can handle 20 amps and will have a horizontal slit making a sideways "T" shape on one prong opening. It is not for any kind of special plug, but rather only to indicate a 20 amp circuit. Match the new outlet to this, as well as the new wire. Buy good (metal insert) wire nuts if making a pigtail! Also, twist the wires (matching colors) together with a plier before you twist on the wire nut. Make sure all wire ends are properly stripped and the same length after twisting with the plier. If all of the wire is burned you are screwed and will have to call an electrician. Then a drywaller. Then a painter. The reason for this is the wire will have to be replaced in both directions to the next boxes on each side of this box. This is why you have the other boxes dead. DO NOT splice wire inside the wall by only enlarging the hole around this box! All splices MUST be inside a box!! This. And yes, your pictures confirm the outlet was wired inline which explains why you lost power to the remainder of the circuit. I'd definitely pigtail it: |
|
The picture says it all. Use a pair of lineman pliers and twist the solid wire together and use a good wire nut. Pull on every connection to make sure it stays and is not loose.
|
|
Listen to the guys telling you to twist your wires before wire nutting them. I had to redo all the connections in my basement. The morons who put in the wiring before me stuck the wires straight into the wire nut and twisted. I found them one night while reloading and I could hear bzzzt, bzzzt above my head. Took the junction box cover off and the wire nut was burned away and I could see the arcing. I found 2 junction boxes buried behind drywall during that project.
|
|
Quoted:
Got some pictures: http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp195/Not_Yet_Begun2Fight/WP_20151022_0041_zpsm3lds3yt.jpg http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp195/Not_Yet_Begun2Fight/WP_20151022_0031_zpsxr2mnumw.jpg http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp195/Not_Yet_Begun2Fight/WP_20151022_0021_zpslrq8sdpv.jpg http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp195/Not_Yet_Begun2Fight/WP_20151022_0011_zpstmq4bb2y.jpg View Quote You need a new plug and cut off some of that wire then strip off an 1/2 inch on the end, and leave the end straight, there is a part on the back of the plug where you push the wire into it, much easier than using the old screw method. |
|
Am I seeing it correctly that the wires were attached to the receptacle by the screws...not pushed into a hole in the back of the receptacle?
|
|
Quoted:
Am I seeing it correctly that the wires were attached to the receptacle by the screws...not pushed into a hole in the back of the receptacle? View Quote It looks that way, but cheap outlets have screws which can't be tightened properly. When things loosen up they arc. Get good outlets, and TIGHTEN THE SCREWS. Also, NEVER use the "stab-ins" in the back--they are the devil's invention, aka house-burner-downers. |
|
Quoted:
It's heated and cooled every day since 1986 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
[qote]Quoted: Quoted:
pull out that outlet. likely a loose wire that needs to be remedied. yes it could burn your house down. that zzzzt you hear is arcing that generates heat. This is the reply that matters. Quoted:
Probably used the outlet as a pass through connection. ![]() ![]() ![]() Probably back-stabbed too. I sleep better at night since ridding my house of all of its original tract home wiring. [/qute] I couldn't prove it, but I truly believe I lost my garage and Jeep to a back-stabbed outlet. Fire Inspector thought so too, but couldn't prove it either. The spring connection can loosen with time. Exactly how does a spring loosen when it never moves? It's heated and cooled every day since 1986 All springs, including magazine springs, do lose power over time. Mechanical engineers call this "spring set" or "creep". Every prestressed concrete bridge in the USA was designed with a large allowance for creep in the prestressing strands. It's a real physical phenomenon that can be tested and measured. A lot of gun guys say it doesn't exist for some reason even though they can google it and read 500 articles about it. The thing that confuses people is the fact that a lot of springs are over-designed to allow for creep and fatigue. Like for example, a prestressed concrete bridge. Since they never see a negative effect from the spring set, they think it does not exist. |
|
Quoted: Listen to the guys telling you to twist your wires before wire nutting them. I had to redo all the connections in my basement. The morons who put in the wiring before me stuck the wires straight into the wire nut and twisted. I found them one night while reloading and I could hear bzzzt, bzzzt above my head. Took the junction box cover off and the wire nut was burned away and I could see the arcing. I found 2 junction boxes buried behind drywall during that project. View Quote That is exactly what the instructions on boxes of Ideal wire nuts say to do. I think it's stupid and have always ignored it. I strip the wires a little long, twist the bare wires together tightly with lineman's pliers, cut the twisted wires to the proper length, apply the wire nut, then twist the whole bundle. I see the wire nut as a fail-safe to reduce the (extremely small) chance of a connection coming loose, and an insulator to keep the bare wires from touching anything else. One of my neighbors, who is very bright and mechanically skilled, actually solders his twisted wires before installing wire nuts. |
|
Quoted:
It shouldn't be. He's now safe and on his way to a resolution--at zero cost. ::shrug:: View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
It is a little frightening to me that the first thought of some, when confronted with sounds of arcing in the walls of their house, is to get on GD in arfcom for advice. It shouldn't be. He's now safe and on his way to a resolution--at zero cost. ::shrug:: +1...OP got some solid sound advice. I see no harm, no foul. OP could follow said advice or ignore it, but atleast he has something to go on. |
|
Quoted:
Pigtail that box, install a new outlet, and then get to work doing the rest of the house the same way. Ever hear of the Beverly Hills Supper Club? An arcing outlet got that one going. Sure, it was aluminum wire but that's not entirely the point. View Quote why does he need to pigtail the outlet? he's going to end up with a wire screwed to the side of the outlet either way so why is a pigtail safer than two sets of wires screwed to the receptacle? it's not like he has four sets of wire screwed to the receptacle |
|
Quoted:
That is exactly what the instructions on boxes of Ideal wire nuts say to do. I think it's stupid and have always ignored it. I strip the wires a little long, twist the bare wires together tightly with lineman's pliers, cut the twisted wires to the proper length, apply the wire nut, then twist the whole bundle. I see the wire nut as a fail-safe to reduce the (extremely small) chance of a connection coming loose, and an insulator to keep the bare wires from touching anything else. One of my neighbors, who is very bright and mechanically skilled, actually solders his twisted wires before installing wire nuts. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Listen to the guys telling you to twist your wires before wire nutting them. I had to redo all the connections in my basement. The morons who put in the wiring before me stuck the wires straight into the wire nut and twisted. I found them one night while reloading and I could hear bzzzt, bzzzt above my head. Took the junction box cover off and the wire nut was burned away and I could see the arcing. I found 2 junction boxes buried behind drywall during that project. That is exactly what the instructions on boxes of Ideal wire nuts say to do. I think it's stupid and have always ignored it. I strip the wires a little long, twist the bare wires together tightly with lineman's pliers, cut the twisted wires to the proper length, apply the wire nut, then twist the whole bundle. I see the wire nut as a fail-safe to reduce the (extremely small) chance of a connection coming loose, and an insulator to keep the bare wires from touching anything else. One of my neighbors, who is very bright and mechanically skilled, actually solders his twisted wires before installing wire nuts. definitely strip the wires long and twist them up good I don't know if soldering them is really needed, seems like overkill |
|
quote]Quoted:
Quoted:
Pigtail that box, install a new outlet, and then get to work doing the rest of the house the same way. Ever hear of the Beverly Hills Supper Club? An arcing outlet got that one going. Sure, it was aluminum wire but that's not entirely the point. View Quote why does he need to pigtail the outlet? he's going to end up with a wire screwed to the side of the outlet either way so why is a pigtail safer than two sets of wires screwed to the receptacle? it's not like he has four sets of wire screwed to the receptacle The logic behind pig tailing your devices is so that in case the device itself fails (physical breaks or burns up) you do not have an interruption of the circuit. This is especially important with the neutral. Standard practice in commercial work, not so much in residential. |
|
Sounds like the house I'm working on. Pre - WWII, added onto a couple of times.
I think I finally found all 5 of the "main" breaker boxes. The last add on, they didn't even attempt to run the wires in the wall or attic, it apparently was just good enough to staple them to the outside of the house. I thought I could rewire the bad parts, but the more I look at it, it's a total rework. |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.