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Posted: 11/20/2015 12:33:18 PM EDT
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Call the customer and tell him to bring the hole thing in when he gets a chance.
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Looks like the barrels they use in England for straight pull Ars.
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I must have missed our semi auto ban. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes I could be wrong but being single shot would allow the owner to have a real butt-stock, pistol grip and removable mag would it not? I could see that compromise vs the fixed 10 round mag and hideous buttstocks. |
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You got some real gunsmithing to do.
First, locate center line of barrel. Next get your gas block hole dimensioned. Then fix the barrel in a vise and proceed to drill..but first drive a bullet in the barrel under the proposed gas port. This supports the barrel so break through isn't an issue and prevents burr formation. Drill away, stopping when you hit lead. Drive bullet out of barrel and check for burr. |
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That's a tier1 bench shooting barrel there. He's in the big league now.
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My latest build: http://i.imgur.com/ViWeTao.jpg The only thing different than a "Free States" AR is the Bullet Button and having to use 10 round mags. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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California Compliant I could be wrong but being single shot would allow the owner to have a real butt-stock, pistol grip and removable mag would it not? I could see that compromise vs the fixed 10 round mag and hideous buttstocks. http://i.imgur.com/ViWeTao.jpg The only thing different than a "Free States" AR is the Bullet Button and having to use 10 round mags. How do you fix bayonet? ![]() |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: California Compliant I could be wrong but being single shot would allow the owner to have a real butt-stock, pistol grip and removable mag would it not? I could see that compromise vs the fixed 10 round mag and hideous buttstocks. http://i.imgur.com/ViWeTao.jpg The only thing different than a "Free States" AR is the Bullet Button and having to use 10 round mags. How do you fix bayonet? ![]() ![]() |
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You got some real gunsmithing to do. First, locate center line of barrel. Next get your gas block hole dimensioned. Then fix the barrel in a vise and proceed to drill..but first drive a bullet in the barrel under the proposed gas port. This supports the barrel so break through isn't an issue and prevents burr formation. Drill away, stopping when you hit lead. Drive bullet out of barrel and check for burr. View Quote I would just drill and ream to size. The burr would be super thin that way. Then I would just brush the bore with a bronze or brass brush. ] |
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Quoted:
My latest build: http://i.imgur.com/ViWeTao.jpg The only thing different than a "Free States" AR is the Bullet Button and having to use 10 round mags. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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California Compliant I could be wrong but being single shot would allow the owner to have a real butt-stock, pistol grip and removable mag would it not? I could see that compromise vs the fixed 10 round mag and hideous buttstocks. http://i.imgur.com/ViWeTao.jpg The only thing different than a "Free States" AR is the Bullet Button and having to use 10 round mags. I see that you have already popped a P-mag. Good call. |
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Quoted: I would just drill and ream to size. The burr would be super thin that way. Then I would just brush the bore with a bronze or brass brush. ] View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: You got some real gunsmithing to do. First, locate center line of barrel. Next get your gas block hole dimensioned. Then fix the barrel in a vise and proceed to drill..but first drive a bullet in the barrel under the proposed gas port. This supports the barrel so break through isn't an issue and prevents burr formation. Drill away, stopping when you hit lead. Drive bullet out of barrel and check for burr. I would just drill and ream to size. The burr would be super thin that way. Then I would just brush the bore with a bronze or brass brush. ] |
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You got some real gunsmithing to do. First, locate center line of barrel. Next get your gas block hole dimensioned. Then fix the barrel in a vise and proceed to drill..but first drive a bullet in the barrel under the proposed gas port. This supports the barrel so break through isn't an issue and prevents burr formation. Drill away, stopping when you hit lead. Drive bullet out of barrel and check for burr. I would just drill and ream to size. The burr would be super thin that way. Then I would just brush the bore with a bronze or brass brush. ] Reamer is a straight fluted cutter. Drill undersized about .002" and run a reamer with oil in to finish. What is the hole size normally? They go all the way down to #80. |
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I can't see the pics for some reason, but I gather that there isn't a gas port drilled in it. I had that problem about a year ago with an 11.5" barrel of indeterminate manufacture. A gunsmith drilled the hole for me and all is good now.
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Yes, I know what a reamer is, just wouldn't think it would remove the burr. Typically used for precise hole diameter and finish.
The slug in bore method is standard. |
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It gives the achievement mindset that you "really did it all by yourself" that way
![]() This is the problem with the modern gunmarket. Everyone wants to be part of gun ownership, and also everyone want to be part of the firearms industry. The owners and manufacturers side are filled with complete idiots. |
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With ar barrels so damn cheap now wouldn't the best thing to do is buy a new one?
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Reamer is a straight fluted cutter. Drill undersized about .002" and run a reamer with oil in to finish. What is the hole size normally? They go all the way down to #80. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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You got some real gunsmithing to do. First, locate center line of barrel. Next get your gas block hole dimensioned. Then fix the barrel in a vise and proceed to drill..but first drive a bullet in the barrel under the proposed gas port. This supports the barrel so break through isn't an issue and prevents burr formation. Drill away, stopping when you hit lead. Drive bullet out of barrel and check for burr. I would just drill and ream to size. The burr would be super thin that way. Then I would just brush the bore with a bronze or brass brush. ] Reamer is a straight fluted cutter. Drill undersized about .002" and run a reamer with oil in to finish. What is the hole size normally? They go all the way down to #80. KeithJ could design reamers in his sleep. Has nothing to do with removing burrs. |
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Quoted: Wonder if his new gas port will end up in a land, groove or both? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Yes, I know what a reamer is, just wouldn't think it would remove the burr. Typically used for precise hole diameter and finish. The slug in bore method is standard. Wonder if his new gas port will end up in a land, groove or both? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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KeithJ could design reamers in his sleep. Has nothing to do with removing burrs. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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You got some real gunsmithing to do. First, locate center line of barrel. Next get your gas block hole dimensioned. Then fix the barrel in a vise and proceed to drill..but first drive a bullet in the barrel under the proposed gas port. This supports the barrel so break through isn't an issue and prevents burr formation. Drill away, stopping when you hit lead. Drive bullet out of barrel and check for burr. I would just drill and ream to size. The burr would be super thin that way. Then I would just brush the bore with a bronze or brass brush. ] Reamer is a straight fluted cutter. Drill undersized about .002" and run a reamer with oil in to finish. What is the hole size normally? They go all the way down to #80. KeithJ could design reamers in his sleep. Has nothing to do with removing burrs. So.....you've never used a reamer? It isn't designed to remove a burr. It will leave a very, very small thin one that will brush away with a good bore brush. The hot gas on the first shot would take care of anything left. The bullet in the bore would work well. I wouldn't hesitate to do it my way with no worries about hurting the bore at all. I don't know how they do it in a high speed machining environment, but I would be surprised if they used the bullet method. |
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Yes, I know what a reamer is, just wouldn't think it would remove the burr. Typically used for precise hole diameter and finish. The slug in bore method is standard. View Quote In my experience, a sharp reamer will almost part the burr left by the drill bit. That is assuming that the drill bit was sharp and used properly and the burr was not ridiculous. |
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