User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:14:41 PM EDT
[#1]
Bad fetzer valve
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:18:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Capacitor starter relay?
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:20:09 PM EDT
[#3]
Control transformer. Might be a fuse or breaker on it. Should read 24 to 26 volts.
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:22:31 PM EDT
[#4]
With no tools you're kind of screwed.
Call Hvac guy. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:23:52 PM EDT
[#5]
Check to see if the condensate drain line is plugged and has flooded the pan. The float switch on the pan/drain line stops the whole show if it's stuck or tripped due to a plugged drain. I'd say 60% of the failures are because of this and are an easy fix.
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:25:35 PM EDT
[#6]
Mine did that last summer. It was the thermostat. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:26:07 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Check to see if the condensate drain line is plugged and has flooded the pan. The float switch on the pan/drain line stops the whole show if it's stuck or tripped due to a plugged drain. I'd say 60% of the failures are because of this and are an easy fix. This. Without tools you're stuck looking for obvious stuff like this. Also, look at the starter capacitor(s) and see if they're bulged or split, or the contacts look fried. That's a common failure point and sometimes is very obvious. Check your t-stat, make sure the batteries are good before troubleshooting. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:30:20 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Capacitor starter relay? My guess is on this |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:32:58 PM EDT
[#9]
checked float valve- its fine.
is it even possible for the condenser to kick on without the air handler on? or are they linked where handler has to tell condenser to start? really just trying to troubleshoot this to point of who to call - electrician or a/c guy first. I had to have a few breakers in my electrical panel replaced a couple years ago. was told the entire panel was needing to be replaced soon so I am wondering if I have an issue there. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:33:06 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This. Without tools you're stuck looking for obvious stuff like this. Also, look at the starter capacitor(s) and see if they're bulged or split, or the contacts look fried. That's a common failure point and sometimes is very obvious. Check your t-stat, make sure the batteries are good before troubleshooting. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Check to see if the condensate drain line is plugged and has flooded the pan. The float switch on the pan/drain line stops the whole show if it's stuck or tripped due to a plugged drain. I'd say 60% of the failures are because of this and are an easy fix. This. Without tools you're stuck looking for obvious stuff like this. Also, look at the starter capacitor(s) and see if they're bulged or split, or the contacts look fried. That's a common failure point and sometimes is very obvious. Check your t-stat, make sure the batteries are good before troubleshooting. This However, if you don't have basic tools to measure voltage you probably don't need to be opening up the unit to inspect the other items. If you do make sure to turn off power at the disconnect on the outdoor unit and the indoor unit. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:36:29 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
checked float valve- its fine. is it even possible for the condenser to kick on without the air handler on? or are they linked where handler has to tell condenser to start? really just trying to troubleshoot this to point of who to call - electrician or a/c guy first. I had to have a few breakers in my electrical panel replaced a couple years ago. was told the entire panel was needing to be replaced soon so I am wondering if I have an issue there. Sure the condenser can run without the fan, but the indoor coil will eventually freeze up. You really need to check voltage at your unit. Red - 24V Black - Common Green - Fan Yellow - Condenser Command Orange or Blue - Reversing Valve (only if heat pump unit) White - Aux Heat Those are the standard colors, now depending on which bubba wired your unit it could be vastly different than that. If testing voltage for cooling you should have 24V on Red, Yellow, and Green (possibly orange if heat pump). You'll need to test it at the thermostat and at the indoor unit and outdoor unit. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:37:01 PM EDT
[#12]
Check float in drain pan, if not clogged or stuck look at capacitor on outside unit. You should use a meter but it the capacitor is swollen the its pretty much shot.
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:38:21 PM EDT
[#13]
too much information, how many manufactures and model numbers do you have?
reset breakers marked heat, heck reset all double pole breakers. check batteries in stat. check all float switches |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:39:20 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sure the condenser can run without the fan, but the indoor coil will eventually freeze up. You really need to check voltage at your unit. Red - 24V Black - Common Green - Fan Yellow - Condenser Command Orange or Blue - Reversing Valve (only if heat pump unit) White - Aux Heat Those are the standard colors, now depending on which bubba wired your unit it could be vastly different than that. If testing voltage for cooling you should have 24V on Red, Yellow, and Green (possibly orange if heat pump). You'll need to test it at the thermostat and at the indoor unit and outdoor unit. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
checked float valve- its fine. is it even possible for the condenser to kick on without the air handler on? or are they linked where handler has to tell condenser to start? really just trying to troubleshoot this to point of who to call - electrician or a/c guy first. I had to have a few breakers in my electrical panel replaced a couple years ago. was told the entire panel was needing to be replaced soon so I am wondering if I have an issue there. Sure the condenser can run without the fan, but the indoor coil will eventually freeze up. You really need to check voltage at your unit. Red - 24V Black - Common Green - Fan Yellow - Condenser Command Orange or Blue - Reversing Valve (only if heat pump unit) White - Aux Heat Those are the standard colors, now depending on which bubba wired your unit it could be vastly different than that. If testing voltage for cooling you should have 24V on Red, Yellow, and Green (possibly orange if heat pump). You'll need to test it at the thermostat and at the indoor unit and outdoor unit. Pfft the best is when some cheap jag off uses 6 different runs of 2 wire... 
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:42:45 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
too much information, how many manufactures and model numbers do you have? reset breakers marked heat, heck reset all double pole breakers. check batteries in stat. check all float switches I forgot about the breakers. Definitely check them. I have had breakers at work that were joined trip one. When I jiggled them they felt untripped. When I flipped them both to off and back on the unit started. Before that the inside unit would run but not the outside. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:47:50 PM EDT
[#16]
Without a meter you are fairly screwed in the troubleshooting department.
Everyone at the very least should have a cheap meter in their house. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:48:53 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pfft the best is when some cheap jag off uses 6 different runs of 2 wire...
We installed controls at a school one time and it would have been the perfect place to test troubleshooting techniques to HVAC students. They had their units donated, so it was a variety of different units all with their own unique wiring. I could also strangle guys who run thermostat wires through 3 J boxes changing the wiring colors at each junction. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:54:07 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Without a meter you are fairly screwed in the troubleshooting department. Everyone at the very least should have a cheap meter in their house. You priced one at Harbor Freight lately? Fucking $5, bro! That's a lot of smackeroonies. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:55:00 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bad fetzer valve Just happened to mine. It would turn on, Fire up, Then shutdown |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 10:59:50 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just happened to mine. It would turn on, Fire up, Then shutdown Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Bad fetzer valve Just happened to mine. It would turn on, Fire up, Then shutdown Fixed it by cleaning your flame present sensor? 
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Posted: 2/23/2016 11:09:13 PM EDT
[#21]
is there an easy way to bypass the thermostat for troubleshooting and to rule it out?
thermostat has red, yellow, green and white wire. red has a jumper between RC and RH terminal. yes, I flipped all the breakers on and off. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 11:14:59 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
is there an easy way to bypass the thermostat for troubleshooting and to rule it out? thermostat has red, yellow, green and white wire. red has a jumper between RC and RH terminal. yes, I flipped all the breakers on and off. Take a jumper wire and jump between Red and Green. Indoor fan should come on. If that works you have 24V. Then if you need to get cooling running wire nut Red, Green, and Yellow together. When you get too cold undo the wire nut. If you don't have fan then you don't have 24V and that could be bad transformer, bad thermostat, blown 5A control fuse, or some safety lockout. Call an HVAC tech. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 11:26:08 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Take a jumper wire and jump between Red and Green. Indoor fan should come on. If that works you have 24V. Then if you need to get cooling running wire nut Red, Green, and Yellow together. When you get too cold undo the wire nut. If you don't have fan then you don't have 24V and that could be bad transformer, bad thermostat, blown 5A control fuse, or some safety lockout. Call an HVAC tech. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
is there an easy way to bypass the thermostat for troubleshooting and to rule it out? thermostat has red, yellow, green and white wire. red has a jumper between RC and RH terminal. yes, I flipped all the breakers on and off. Take a jumper wire and jump between Red and Green. Indoor fan should come on. If that works you have 24V. Then if you need to get cooling running wire nut Red, Green, and Yellow together. When you get too cold undo the wire nut. If you don't have fan then you don't have 24V and that could be bad transformer, bad thermostat, blown 5A control fuse, or some safety lockout. Call an HVAC tech. nothing comes on bypassing the thermostat. Guess I will call my hvac guy in the morning. thanks for all the help |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 11:30:49 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Check to see if the condensate drain line is plugged and has flooded the pan. The float switch on the pan/drain line stops the whole show if it's stuck or tripped due to a plugged drain. I'd say 60% of the failures are because of this and are an easy fix. +1, above is my first thought and usually the culprit. |
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Posted: 2/23/2016 11:34:26 PM EDT
[#25]
We had a bug in between the contacts on our outdoor unit. It wouldn't do anything.
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Posted: 2/23/2016 11:49:57 PM EDT
[#26]
Look on the front of your indoor unit for a fuse. It will be a round automotive fuse. If it blows nothing will come on. |
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Posted: 2/24/2016 12:01:18 AM EDT
[#27]
I think that they usually give them away with purchase.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You priced one at Harbor Freight lately? Fucking $5, bro! That's a lot of smackeroonies. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Without a meter you are fairly screwed in the troubleshooting department. Everyone at the very least should have a cheap meter in their house. You priced one at Harbor Freight lately? Fucking $5, bro! That's a lot of smackeroonies. |
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Posted: 2/24/2016 12:23:34 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: checked float valve- its fine. is it even possible for the condenser to kick on without the air handler on? or are they linked where handler has to tell condenser to start? really just trying to troubleshoot this to point of who to call - electrician or a/c guy first. I had to have a few breakers in my electrical panel replaced a couple years ago. was told the entire panel was needing to be replaced soon so I am wondering if I have an issue there. |
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