Since I can't locate a used romanian barrel or two (unless if someone out there has one or two they're willing to part with), I'm looking at installing a new/virgin barrel on a parts kit (or three).

I've built at least a few parts kits with barrels with no problems in the past, so I'm sure what I want to do isn't out of my ability, but it's lack of knowledge that's hindering the process.

Does anyone know of a tutorial out there on how to assemble a new barrel assembly from a new barrel and used parts and headspace it?  I'm finding bits and pieces out there.  Someone did an excellent thread on a maadi kit with a used romanian barrel, however, they lucked out and did not have to drill the gas port, the pins for the FSB, RSB and gas block were already on the barrel and it appears the headspace is good.

Basically, I *think* I can compile everything so far except for how to drill the gas port, lining up the initial fsb and gas block so they're not canted, and setting the initial headspace.

Any ideas?  Apparently I'm a glutton for punishment.

I think Apex still has used romy barrels for $105, if you should tire of your quest for knowledge.

Regards, Eric

Nope.  already tried them for used stripped romy barrels.

They do have WASR barrels with site posts and gas blocks but the threads have been turned down.

They're not sure if there is enough material left on it to thread the barrel with 1/2x28 right hand threads, so it's not my first choice, although it's a viable candidate if nothing else comes along.

I can get a new Romy barrel that has the extractor cut, handguard cuts, threaded muzzle, etc, but it's a virgin barrel with no gas port drilled or locating marks for the FSB, gas block or RSB.  I *may* go that route if I can come up with enough information.

Don't pretend that just because there are imported used barrels that you should not headspace a build.  I'm finding that even some all matched serial number kits are not headspacing like you would hope, much less a non-matching barrel.  AK building is now more like gunsmithing than ever before.  If you are not headspacing you are asking for rounds to go off out of battery and possibly sustain injuries in the process.  A headspace gauge is a must now as much as for experienced builders as it is for new builders.  So no matter what kit you find be sure to headspace it.  As for the process of aligning the barrel parts there are several methods for ensuring that things line up instead of some one finding it for you I would suggest searching Youtube (watch multiple methods of doing this and you will have a greater likelihood of having success in your own build).  

[/quote]
Nope.  already tried them for used stripped romy barrels.

They do have WASR barrels with site posts and gas blocks but the threads have been turned down.

They're not sure if there is enough material left on it to thread the barrel with 1/2x28 right hand threads, so it's not my first choice, although it's a viable candidate if nothing else comes along.

I can get a new Romy barrel that has the extractor cut, handguard cuts, threaded muzzle, etc, but it's a virgin barrel with no gas port drilled or locating marks for the FSB, gas block or RSB.  I *may* go that route if I can come up with enough information.[/quote]

Dang it! I didn't read that very closely, I guess. Well, I've got one coming. Guess I'll have do somethng to the muzzle.

I'm aware that the barrels need to be headspaced and was planning on it anyways(regardless if new, used, matching, unmatching, etc).  My life and eyesight is worth far more than the cost of a set of go/no go gauges and a few oversized barrel pins if necessary.

I did find a decent tutorial on a virgin Yugo barrel last night with some searching on Gunco...

http://www.gunco.net/forums/f43/new-m70-barrel-install-tutorial-28039/

This was most definately a good read and should help immensely with what I want to do.

When you get it, can you grab a caliper and get me the outer dimensions of where the barrel was turned down?  I'm not sure how pressed on the muzzle nut is so this might not even be possible without pressing off the old one with a shop press.

The reason I ask about that is because if there is enough material, CNC Warrior makes a slant brake for smaller threads for this type of situation...

http://www.cncwarrior.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=49

They also have the appropriate dies and tats listed on their site for cutting this thread FWIW.

I'll do that. It should be here late this week or early next

ETA-Not due here until 21May per UPS tracking.

I have one of those barrels at home.  I can have my dad mic it for you guys on Friday.



I personally haven't seen the barrel myself, but from what he has told me it's got the parts pressed on but there are no pin holes drilled.  No idea about the gas hole

I broke down and bought one of the APEX WASR barrels, and then proceeded to buy a couple of new romy barrels that I located somewhere else, so in either case, I get the joy of lining up and pinning parts, drilling gas ports, etc.

We'll see if the WASR front ends have enough material for rethreading.  If not, AK-builder has an adaptor to convert the cut down end to a 24mm thread, so AK74 muzzle devices could be used.

http://www.ak-builder.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30090

I spoke to Curtis at AK-builder the other day in regards to the Romanian M65 underfolder flats, and those should be available sooner or later.  (I'm hoping sooner, since I have a couple of M65 kits).

The other option if they take a while is to use a generic flat and drill out for the underfolder rear trunnion.  I'm still not entirely sure how I would go about this, but I think if I can find a template, I could machine out the correct opening.  (there was no rear reciever stub left on the trunnion to just measure off of...that would have been too easy.)  As the expression goes, all it takes is a dremel and a dream!

Once some more of the parts start showing up, I'll start turning this into a pictoral WESCOG build thread.

Apex Romanian barrel pic and dimensions of turned down barrel nut. (barrel looks like new)

mine also looks brand new, except for the big scrape down the barrel extending from where the gas hole was cut...ugly, but functional.

I was able to twist off the muzzle nut (there's no threads underneath) and get the diameter...mine calipered out to .504, which means I can rethread with 1/2 x 28 and use a CNC warrior extended slant brake.

http://www.cncwarrior.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=49

I also pressed off the gas block and fsb and replaced with the ones from a Romanian M65 kit I have, which gives me a bayonet lug also (nothing makes me happier than debanning things...)  I used  a Romy G front end to get measurements (along with dead reckoning and common sense) to get everything mostly lined up correctly.



I'm waiting on some headspace gauges and then I *should* be able to headspace this barrel into a front trunnion and continue on with the build...

I also acquired two more romanian new barrels for future builds, although those open a whole other can of worms for building that I've never had to do before.

I recieved the die, tat and extended muzzle brake that I ordered from CNC warrior yesterday and threaded one of the cut down APEX WASR barrel specials...
I had previously pressed off the gas block and front site and replaced with parts from a Centerfire M65 parts kit.  Of course, as I was threading, I realized I couldn't get the die down far enough, so I pressed the FSB back off to finish threading.













So that answers the question as to whether these assemblies can be rethreaded without resleeving.

Of course, thread size will be 1/2 x 28, but slant (and other type) brakes are available to fit that.

Now on to building the rest of the rifle!