Misunderstanding. I meant it in a sincere way. Not expecting it to destruct.

@Tiribulus

My 1911 A1 is dead nuts accurate with the factory fixed irons. I was hitting the 50 yard plate on the regular. Shooting single action triggers is a dream and easy to hit the target when you cut your teeth on the glock trigger.

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Because I “hold the gun wrong.”

Fair enough. The limitations of non-verbal communication.

Some other grip options to consider that are a bit cheaper.

Altamont Company

I was impressed enough with the 9mm, I picked up a .45...
I added grips and some grip tape to the front of the grip...it feels great in the hand!

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OK,… I flinched on a few.

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But at least the front sight stayed home!

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Funny you should ask...I'm hoping to shoot it today!
And I tried the Sig light I bought on sale from Palmetto and like how it fits...

I dig those grips

Yes Frog, thanks for the tip!  I liked how yours looked and couldn’t help myself!

I am no 1911 expert, but I had no failures in my first box of ammo. It definitely needs more to break in/run a bit, but I’m sure I could hit anything I needed to…

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Just picked up the Commander size Carry in 9mm from the FFL. Seems great outta the box again, but also needs a field strip and some lube.

Id like that model with a threaded barrel.

Wonder why they dont offer any with threaded barrels. Its 2023 figure that is kind of a given these days.

That’s a great looking gun! Love the grips you slapped on there.

Here's mine .... 1911A1 Service Special

Maybe it's the light but the finish on your service special looks much darker than mine (page 3 of this thread). Great looking grips btw.

I was able to get out for a little today and finally get some rounds through these things. 100 rds of 230gr Ball through the B45R and 100 rds of steel case Russian through the 1911A1. Not a lot but 100% reliable.

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Just a heads up. I just got the exact same model and outta the box it was practically unusable. Turns out it was the ceracote finish on the fame and slide rails. Check it without the spring if it gives you any trouble. If it's sticky just get the finish off the rails and it will come to life nicely. OR, you may not have this situation at all.

To me personally it's a minimal hassle to go through to wind up with a pistol this nice that cost me 400 bucks.

Some JB Bore polish would prob smooth that right out. Cheaper than the 1k rounds to wear it in lol

I just took it down, cleaned it out and ran the slide by hand for a few minutes actually. It went from not being able to cycle 3 rounds in a row to firing the next 150 with a single odd nose dive in the middle of a mag. It also wouldn't lock back on empty outta the box, but after this exercise did so every time.

There are those who will sneer that I disagree. It's not cheap junk. It has a finish that needs wearing in. It's not like it's structurally unsound or something. Like I say, it's a small inconvenience for a pistol this good for this money.

I had it out again yesterday and it ran great. Accurate too.

I'm thinking you mean the BLUE LABEL VERSION . Looks like it might be good to have on hand.

Yes, that stuff.  Thank you.  I've used it as a cleaning agent, but only applied it to speed up break in recently. It's been especially handy for the last few years since bowl guns have gone down in cost and up in volume of production. The attention to mating surfaces has been one of the places all the manufacturers cut the corner. All the Ruger bolt guns I bought in the last couple of years required a couple hundred cycles with some of the smeared on the boat. Definitely smoothed out the cycling, and quieted down the action.

Its the lighting ... definitely Gray in real life

My Tisas 1911 A-1

Sorry about the shadows, the sun didn't cooperate! Color of my pistol is very slightly more "olive" then the photo reflects. I like the looks of military firearms, and this one while not exact, comes close enough for me even though cerakoted not parked.

I noticed mine has a slight greenish look under certain light...

Love it!

Yep, I really like mine. One of the best firearms buys for the money that I have made. Going to put some more rounds through it today.

I just received the 1791 brand holster for the 1911 pistol today.
This holster is hecho en Mexico from Murican cow butts.

Bought it off Amazon.
Copy-Pasta of the review I wrote on Amazon.
I felt motivated to write a long review because other reviewers on Amazon were bitching about how they didn't think the thumb-snap loop was designed correctly.
I think the loop is designed genius because it gives you a solid option to carry hammer-cocked OR hammer down.

Ended up being $61.47 delivered to my house.

https://a.co/d/jbqEkx5

Right from the package, I like the look of it. The black color is slightly chocolate color to my eye. I’m undecided whether I would have preferred it actually to be jet-black. The slight chocolate color makes it look a little bit aged, and which I think I’ll prefer over a patent-leather-black.

I’ve read others’ reviews of this holster. I agree that the thumb-snap loop presents an interesting question with this sort of holster for a single-action semi-auto pistol. Raises the question of do you carry “cocked-and-locked,” or carry it “hammer-down?’ This holster allows you to carry it EITHER WAY. Which means it’s not perfect either way. The loop blocks the hammer loosely when cocked-and-locked. But the hammer IS BLOCKED. So it works. It just looks a little odd when carried that way. The snap loop has a neater look if carried hammer-down. But hammer-down has its own tactical issues in the context of a 1911. And that is really the inherent conflict with carrying a single-action semi-auto pistol at all. Which hammer position is the “right way to carry.” You can’t buy an answer to that question. The 1791 holster gives you the option to answer that question as YOU see fit. Freedom y’all! It’s a thing!

I have 1911’s in Government model style (5-inch barrel with SPUR HAMMER), and Commander model style (4.25” barrel with RING HAMMER). The 1791 holster accepts both models very well. The type of hammer does not affect the user’s ability to carry cocked-and-locked or hammer down. The snap loop is fully functional with either hammer.

The muzzle of the gun does stick out the bottom of the holster a bit with the Government model. So if you are concerned about the exposed muzzle on the Government model, you’re gonna need a BIGGER HOLSTER, and this holster is already big enough. The leather is sturdy enough to outlive the cockroaches after the atom bomb goes off.

As others have noted, the holster does ride kind of high when carried strong-side. After all, it has to if you’re gonna carry such a big pistol. If you don’t want it digging into your ribs, get a smaller pistol. I’m probably not gonna carry it crossdraw much. My belly already sticks out enough. Carrying it crossdraw just makes the butt stick out even more, and draws attention to the butt of the gun and my big belly. I don’t like attention.

Somebody mentioned modifying the holster with a Chicago Screw, to make the gun sit higher in the holster, and to make the thumb-snap loop fit more neatly across the back of the slide, in order  to block the hammer when carrying cocked-and-locked. When I ordered the holster, I had it strongly in mind that I would make the Chicago-Screw modification. Now that I’ve received the holster, I see that such a modification might make a neater look cocked-and-locked, but a tighter snap-loop would prevent hammer-down carry. So I think I’ll just leave it as-is for now.

Check out the pics to see how it looks with the Spur Hammer versus the Ring hammer, and how the muzzle protrudes with the Government model. The muzzle doesn’t protrude with the Commander length.

(Yeah, I know. Only the Commander is actually a Tisas. The Government Model is a Taylors (ARMSCORP))

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If you want to make the break-strap fit tighter across the back of the slide, a ten-cent Chicago screw and five minutes labor will achieve that fit.

But all that achieves is a difference in appearance. The existing design fully blocks the cocked-and-locked hammer, even when the gun is forced as deeply into the holster as possible.

I’m probably not going to install the Chicago screw on mine. At least not today. But here’s how it would look with the gun forced higher into the thumb strap. Also has the positive effect of causing the muzzle to not protrude past the bottom of the holster. Although, in an Abrahamic sort of way, I think it’s rather stylish to have “just the tip” exposed.

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$12 box of Chicago screws from globalist cuck-site
https://a.co/d/dLuPBvK

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my upgraded "tanker"

Tell us about the front-strap checkering.

Sticker?

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No sticker... all me by hand, I can't remember but I think it's a 30 LPI checkering file... it's been a few years since I have done any hand checkering but it came out alright

Off to google "checkering file" and look for Youtube vids...

Mine arrived today. So did some thinner grips.
I ordered the dark walnut grips from Tisas. Will get my file ready to bobtail them.

Holster arrived today.

Sight-channel is deep enough to accommodate the big honking front target sight!

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What grips are these?

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Looks like Red & Black G10 with the starburst pattern?

https://imgur.com/nIoraXz