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What does everyone here do to keep their rucks dry? when it rains the pack itself can become fairly heavy from rain.
In the past I have treated my TT with hydrophobic spray, but it needs redone every so often. The other week I saw some higher speed individuals with what appeared to be 1606 frame and a seal line baja water proof stuff sack... anyone every seen a waterproof setup? I like to go back packing in the rain, might be good for 2 day trips. edit: Just got to looking around and seal line makes packs. I am thinking it could be rigged into a frame and have the waist/shoulder straps added in. It was smaller than the pro portage, so it was possibly the black canyon or a boundary portage. |
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The strength of the pack is in the wolf, the strength of the wolf is in the pack
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Originally Posted By assaultdog0351:
What does everyone here do to keep their rucks dry? when it rains the pack itself can become fairly heavy from rain. In the past I have treated my TT with hydrophobic spray, but it needs redone every so often. The other week I saw some higher speed individuals with what appeared to be 1606 frame and a seal line baja water proof stuff sack... anyone every seen a waterproof setup? I like to go back packing in the rain, might be good for 2 day trips. edit: Just got to looking around and seal line makes packs. I am thinking it could be rigged into a frame and have the waist/shoulder straps added in. It was smaller than the pro portage, so it was possibly the black canyon or a boundary portage. View Quote I have had some success with treating all sewn-through seams with seam-sealer. This has to be more-or-less worked-into the sewn-through seam on BOTH sides. only AFTER treating all the sew-throughs should the user apply DWR to all inside and outside surfaces of the pack, including the insides of pockets. Doing both these procedures thoroughly is time-consuming, but not expensive. This will reduce (perhaps greatly reduce) water ingress, but you will still need to protect water-sensitive items. Even if your pack is highly water-resistant to rain or snow, it could still be dropped into a stream or pond |
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"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Originally Posted By assaultdog0351:
What does everyone here do to keep their rucks dry? when it rains the pack itself can become fairly heavy from rain. View Quote Nothing high speed or low drag, but.. All pockets, pouches, etc get a ziploc for contents. A gallon size zip lock can fit a USGI t shirt, socks and drawers. Main pack gets an ALICE pack waterproof bag. Worked since basic training. |
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Originally Posted By nipster74:
Nothing high speed or low drag, but.. All pockets, pouches, etc get a ziploc for contents. A gallon size zip lock can fit a USGI t shirt, socks and drawers. Main pack gets an ALICE pack waterproof bag. Worked since basic training. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By nipster74:
Originally Posted By assaultdog0351:
What does everyone here do to keep their rucks dry? when it rains the pack itself can become fairly heavy from rain. Nothing high speed or low drag, but.. All pockets, pouches, etc get a ziploc for contents. A gallon size zip lock can fit a USGI t shirt, socks and drawers. Main pack gets an ALICE pack waterproof bag. Worked since basic training. THIS I had a guy I served with treat his with Camp Dry once. The water just ran off the pack as the rest of ours got soaked through. |
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If ever time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin.
Samuel Adams |
Originally Posted By alphajaguars:
THIS I had a guy I served with treat his with Camp Dry once. The water just ran off the pack as the rest of ours got soaked through. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By alphajaguars:
Originally Posted By nipster74:
Originally Posted By assaultdog0351:
What does everyone here do to keep their rucks dry? when it rains the pack itself can become fairly heavy from rain. Nothing high speed or low drag, but.. All pockets, pouches, etc get a ziploc for contents. A gallon size zip lock can fit a USGI t shirt, socks and drawers. Main pack gets an ALICE pack waterproof bag. Worked since basic training. THIS I had a guy I served with treat his with Camp Dry once. The water just ran off the pack as the rest of ours got soaked through. I "think" we may have used camp dry once on the old shelter halfs during basic. As for the Ziplocks, I learned that in basic as well. From what I remember, a set of BDUs if folded correctly could fit in a gallon size bag as well. |
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Two questions for you guys
1. Anyone know a good source for reasonable priced SAW pouches? 2. I'm debating between using an LBV88 vest and a normal harness for an ALICE load system. The one concern I have is this would be worn in winter as well. Would I be better off just dealing with the Y Harness all year, of having to adjust the LBV over winter layers? What do you guys prefer? |
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I'M A METAL ROBOT WEARIN' A HAT!
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Originally Posted By JFarley:
Two questions for you guys 1. Anyone know a good source for reasonable priced SAW pouches? 2. I'm debating between using an LBV88 vest and a normal harness for an ALICE load system. The one concern I have is this would be worn in winter as well. Would I be better off just dealing with the Y Harness all year, of having to adjust the LBV over winter layers? What do you guys prefer? View Quote A popular trick is to remove the shoilder pads from a lbv and put on the adjustment straps from the h harness gives you the best of both worlds. |
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I hope this thread is still active. I'm trying to find some info on attaching a hydration pouch to my ALICE LC-2. The Spec Ops H.U.M.P. is currently out of stock, so I need some sort of substitute.
My current setup is as follows: -Blackhawk load bearing suspenders -Marine Corp style pistol belt -2 magazine pouches -M12 holster w/ issue pistol lanyard -OKC-3S bayonet -a MOLLE dump pouch -2 1qt canteens (one with cup) -butt pack (the later issued nylon one in woodland, not the old Nam-era canvas one in OD) -one first aid pouch w/ israeli bandage -compass pouch with issued lensatic compass -a TUFF products inline 1911 magazine pouch that I attached with MALICE clips (5 mag). If I could get a hydration pouch attached to the back, above the butt pouch, I could ditch the canteens and use the space to add a couple of SAW pouches. I figured I could use one for a proper bleeder/blowout kit,, and the other as an all purpose ditty bag. Anyone have a recommended hydration pouch to suggest, as well as directions on how to attach to my ALICE gear? Also, if I do this, will I still be able to wear an ALICE pack with the hydration pouch attached? Thanks in advance for any replies. |
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Originally Posted By TyphoidLarry:
I hope this thread is still active. I'm trying to find some info on attaching a hydration pouch to my ALICE LC-2. The Spec Ops H.U.M.P. is currently out of stock, so I need some sort of substitute. My current setup is as follows: -Blackhawk load bearing suspenders -Marine Corp style pistol belt -2 magazine pouches -M12 holster w/ issue pistol lanyard -OKC-3S bayonet -a MOLLE dump pouch -2 1qt canteens (one with cup) -butt pack (the later issued nylon one in woodland, not the old Nam-era canvas one in OD) -one first aid pouch w/ israeli bandage -compass pouch with issued lensatic compass -a TUFF products inline 1911 magazine pouch that I attached with MALICE clips (5 mag). If I could get a hydration pouch attached to the back, above the butt pouch, I could ditch the canteens and use the space to add a couple of SAW pouches. I figured I could use one for a proper bleeder/blowout kit,, and the other as an all purpose ditty bag. Anyone have a recommended hydration pouch to suggest, as well as directions on how to attach to my ALICE gear? Also, if I do this, will I still be able to wear an ALICE pack with the hydration pouch attached? Thanks in advance for any replies. View Quote Sounds like you need a Spec-Ops Brand H.U.M.P. |
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Something about something, probably sounding really deep, but not really. - Someone Intellectual
Benefactor Member of the ARFCOM Science Foundation |
Originally Posted By Bedouin2W:
Sounds like you need a Spec-Ops Brand H.U.M.P. View Quote I'd love to get one, but they're out of stock. Maybe they'll have them in soon. Hopefully.. I love ALICE gear. A 1st line MOLLE setup would put me back hundreds. For less than $100, you can get everything you need in ALICE. EDIT: I found some for sale from 3rd party vendors/ebay. For a lot more than $5, sadly. Anyone know if I can use this with my butt pack attacked as well? |
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Originally Posted By TyphoidLarry: I hope this thread is still active. I'm trying to find some info on attaching a hydration pouch to my ALICE LC-2. The Spec Ops H.U.M.P. is currently out of stock, so I need some sort of substitute. My current setup is as follows: -Blackhawk load bearing suspenders -Marine Corp style pistol belt -2 magazine pouches -M12 holster w/ issue pistol lanyard -OKC-3S bayonet -a MOLLE dump pouch -2 1qt canteens (one with cup) -butt pack (the later issued nylon one in woodland, not the old Nam-era canvas one in OD) -one first aid pouch w/ israeli bandage -compass pouch with issued lensatic compass -a TUFF products inline 1911 magazine pouch that I attached with MALICE clips (5 mag). If I could get a hydration pouch attached to the back, above the butt pouch, I could ditch the canteens and use the space to add a couple of SAW pouches. I figured I could use one for a proper bleeder/blowout kit,, and the other as an all purpose ditty bag. Anyone have a recommended hydration pouch to suggest, as well as directions on how to attach to my ALICE gear? Also, if I do this, will I still be able to wear an ALICE pack with the hydration pouch attached? Thanks in advance for any replies. View Quote I picked up a couple of HUMPs a while back, but as it turns out will probably not be using them. The instructions that come with the HUMP tell you how to attach it to either a belt & suspenders rig or inside the front face of the Alice pack frame (between the frame and the pack). The frame protects the HUMP and bladder from getting squashed by the pack. Don't know if you're using a frame on your pack or not. If the pack doesn't crush the HUMP against the frame then I imagine it probably wouldn't crush one attached to your suspenders either, but I'd think the pack would tend to roll back and forth against the HUMP. In any case I'd be perfectly willing to part with at least one of my HUMPs if you want to go that way. One other thing I found with the HUMP was that while some hydration packs incorporate the bladder's filler cap into the pack itself to hold the bladder in place, the HUMP doesn't have a hole for the filler cap and doesn't seem to provide any other way to secure the bladder to keep it from sliding down as it drains. Seems like you've got a lot of stuff on your belt. Do you hang some of it, like the compass and first aid pouches, on the suspenders or is it all on the belt? ETA: Yes, you can use a butt pack with the HUMP, but either the HUMP will push the top of the butt pack out a bit or the butt pack will press the HUMP against your spine, depending on how stiff the contents of the pack are. I suppose you could somehow attach the bottom of the HUMP to the top of the butt pack, but then the HUMP wouldn't have enough vertical room to fit correctly (unless maybe you're REALLY tall). |
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Got the specs on the upgrades you made to the medium ALICE?
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MOLLE belt and shoulder straps, Fastex buckles on the pockets, paracord "drag handle" on the frame.... Am I missing anything else?
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Starting a Hellcat type mod using a medium ALICE and an old small Coleman Ram Flex frame I got at thrift store and cut down. Past mods I have sewn in Fastex buckles but now a days the fastex repair buckles are available. Do you guys think the repair buckles make for a better option? Seems they are easier to add and easier to replace if they break.
Also will the MOLLE belt work with this frame? |
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Originally Posted By tsg68:
Starting a Hellcat type mod using a medium ALICE and an old small Coleman Ram Flex frame I got at thrift store and cut down. Past mods I have sewn in Fastex buckles but now a days the fastex repair buckles are available. Do you guys think the repair buckles make for a better option? Seems they are easier to add and easier to replace if they break. Also will the MOLLE belt work with this frame? View Quote I've used fastex buckles that I cut to the repair buckles configuration on most, if not all, my Alice packs. They've held up well and haven't failed. And they're much easier than sewing each buckle loop back together. As for the Molle belt on a Ram Flex, I have no idea. I've never seen the Ram Flex in person. But I'm sure it "could" be done, just might require some creative thinking. |
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Originally Posted By nipster74:
I've used fastex buckles that I cut to the repair buckles configuration on most, if not all, my Alice packs. They've held up well and haven't failed. And they're much easier than sewing each buckle loop back together. As for the Molle belt on a Ram Flex, I have no idea. I've never seen the Ram Flex in person. But I'm sure it "could" be done, just might require some creative thinking. View Quote That's a good Idea. I've already got some standard Fastex buckles laying around. I'll just cut off the metal glides and slit the Fastex. Just found more info on fitting Molle II straps and pads to the Ram Flex and the guy says it works like it was made for it! |
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Originally Posted By tsg68:
That's a good Idea. I've already got some standard Fastex buckles laying around. I'll just cut off the metal glides and slit the Fastex. Just found more info on fitting Molle II straps and pads to the Ram Flex and the guy says it works like it was made for it! View Quote In my last job I had to toss a lot of nylon gear that had fastex buckles in various sized but tons of 1" buckles. I cut them all off before tossing. So I had a crap ton to experiment with. Glad to hear that the Ram Flex works with the Molle belt. I found this photo online. Molle on a Ram Flex frame |
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Great link thanks!
This is the link I found on Molle II and the Ram Flex, I found that the Alice frame envelope should still fit over the cut down frame after the straps are installed too. I have a large Ram Flex as well that will be staying intact as a cargo frame and getting Molle II as well when funds match. http://www.nuggetshooter.ipbhost.com/index.php?/topic/28663-resurrecting-an-old-coleman-peak-1-pack-frame/ |
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I just spent a weekend camping out of a large ALICE pack on an ALICE frame with MOLLE belt and shoulder straps. And MOLLE sleeping bag sack on bottom.
Very comfortable to hike in, lots of room. ."Would camp again!" |
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But man...dress up a little. It's church, God dammnit. And this is an Atheist talking. If I can dress up for a God I don't even believe in, so can you.
--Subnet, proud Atheist |
Heads up, just got this from Amazon.
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thanks to whoever bought my membership.
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Raf, thanks. I linked to another source and it worked. Still dont know why.
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Bump for a thread
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Anyone have any good, reasonably priced sources for Alice pouches?
Looking for more butt packs and mag pouches, would love to find some holsters, SAW pouches, medic kits. I've had reasonable luck at flea markets, and a surplus store about an hour from me has mag pouches and canteen covers, just takes a lot of my day. |
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Originally Posted By JFarley:
Anyone have any good, reasonably priced sources for Alice pouches? Looking for more butt packs and mag pouches, would love to find some holsters, SAW pouches, medic kits. I've had reasonable luck at flea markets, and a surplus store about an hour from me has mag pouches and canteen covers, just takes a lot of my day. View Quote Smells like piss/ammonia, and flaking away from nylon will be apparent. There are ways to deal with this, but that is not generally recommended for most folks. I don't advocate using ALICE gear anymore. Too much of it is messed up, and the best examples have driven up in price by collectors. MOLLE items will interface with ALICE gear (and the reverse), so unless you are absolutely committed to ALICE, I suggest you gradually move on to MOLLE. |
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"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Check ebay,
I think there are several sellers there that have them. |
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Definitely ebay. I just made some good scores a few weeks ago on a holster and magazines pouches.
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Originally Posted By raf:
.... Smells like piss/ammonia, and flaking away from nylon will be apparent. There are ways to deal with this, but that is not generally recommended for most folks. ..... View Quote |
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Originally Posted By R2point0:
Any links? I have an old Belgian Motorcyclist Coat where the rubberized lining is doing that. It's useless to me in that condition, so I'd be ok taking a risk on the fix. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By R2point0:
Originally Posted By raf:
.... Smells like piss/ammonia, and flaking away from nylon will be apparent. There are ways to deal with this, but that is not generally recommended for most folks. ..... |
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"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Originally Posted By raf:
Basically, the process involves removing as much as possible of the old coating, and then brushing-on a thin coat of new water-based poly. Use a foam tipped brush for fluid control. "Tent Sure Tent Floor Sealant" from Gear Aid is what you want. View Quote But I can probably live with that. |
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Originally Posted By R2point0:
Hmmm...was hoping for something more like "soak in highly volatile, poisonous, really bad stuff that is only available in Kazakhstan that will dissolve the rubber but leave the cotton untouched." But I can probably live with that. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By R2point0:
Originally Posted By raf:
Basically, the process involves removing as much as possible of the old coating, and then brushing-on a thin coat of new water-based poly. Use a foam tipped brush for fluid control. "Tent Sure Tent Floor Sealant" from Gear Aid is what you want. But I can probably live with that. Depending on the base material, one might soak it in a weak water/bleach solution, say 5% bleach/water. That would kill any fungus that has crept in over the years. Might also bleach finish. A much safer method would be to expose the entire object to FULL sun, adjusting object as necessary to obtain full exposure to solar rays. After that, use stiff brush + plastic scraper thingys (Harbor Freight) to remove as much of original coating as possible. Re-expose to sun. After that, spray completely with alcohol to prep surface to be coated, and kill anything left over from solar exposure. The goal is to remove 100% of the old polyurethane coating, but this is seldom achieved. Removing most of the polyurethane is probably the most one can hope for. Of course, removing the offending, stinky polyurethane is one thing. One might also consider surface treatments, such as offered by Filson and Barbour for the exterior of the garment. Barbour used to be quite the thing a long time ago for motorcyclists, but I reckon modern garments are better in most ways. So, another rejuvenation plan would be to remove as much of the old poly as possible, dis-infect, re-coat interior with a THIN coating to abovementioned tent seal to encapsulate remaining poly, and them treat the outer surface of the garment with suitable substances, as from Filson, Barbour, and perhaps others. Naturally, if one wishes to dye to the garment to a deep shade of original color, than that must be done before applying any waterproofing treatments to the garment. Follow the rules on Rit Dye site to the letter. Be advised that dyeing a cotton garment runs the risk of shrinking it. |
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"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Originally Posted By raf:
Depending on the base material, one might soak it in a weak water/bleach solution, say 5% bleach/water. That would kill any fungus that has crept in over the years. Might also bleach finish. A much safer method would be to expose the entire object to FULL sun, adjusting object as necessary to obtain full exposure to solar rays. After that, use stiff brush + plastic scraper thingys (Harbor Freight) to remove as much of original coating as possible. Re-expose to sun. After that, spray completely with alcohol to prep surface to be coated, and kill anything left over from solar exposure. The goal is to remove 100% of the old polyurethane coating, but this is seldom achieved. Removing most of the polyurethane is probably the most one can hope for. Of course, removing the offending, stinky polyurethane is one thing. One might also consider surface treatments, such as offered by Filson and Barbour for the exterior of the garment. so, another rejuvenation plan would be to remove as much of the old poly as possible, dis-infect, re-coat interior with a THIN coating to abovementioned tent seal to encapsulate remaining poly, and them treat the outer surface of the garment with suitable substances. Naturally, if one wishes to dye to the garment to a deep shade of original color, than that must be done before applying any waterproofing treatments to the garment. Follow the rules on Rit Dye site to the letter. Be advised that dyeing a cotton garment runs the risk of shrinking it. View Quote |
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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Originally Posted By R2point0:
I'm thinking:
View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By R2point0:
Originally Posted By raf:
Don't forget to stand upwind, and shake the garment vigorously. Read that last twice.
I dunno if a face mask is required; just stay upwind. |
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"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Originally Posted By assaultdog0351:
What does everyone here do to keep their rucks dry? when it rains the pack itself can become fairly heavy from rain. In the past I have treated my TT with hydrophobic spray, but it needs redone every so often. The other week I saw some higher speed individuals with what appeared to be 1606 frame and a seal line baja water proof stuff sack... anyone every seen a waterproof setup? I like to go back packing in the rain, might be good for 2 day trips. edit: Just got to looking around and seal line makes packs. I am thinking it could be rigged into a frame and have the waist/shoulder straps added in. It was smaller than the pro portage, so it was possibly the black canyon or a boundary portage. View Quote Not sure what color you need 6 color desert multicam Artic White Marpat Woodland IMO the rain cover is going to be much easier to pull off even though it takes up a little more space than trying to waterproof the bagitself. There's simply way too many seams. Again IMO. |
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"One day you may find me laying face down in a ditch................but I'll be laying on a pile of empty brass!"
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Going though some totes trying to condense and thin out some things.
Put this together for this thread. The mag pouches are from Brigade Quartermasters I bought in the 90's for a MAK90. Attached File |
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Dug this out of one of my footlockers. Switched over to racks in 2000, so this hasn’t been worn in about 18 years. But it still works!
Attached File And Russia’s more modern ALICE-esque setup. Attached File |
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That's how you know it's working...
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That is my current set up. Your right it does the job.
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Buy It Cheap!
Stack It Deep! |
Originally Posted By 2Manchu:
Dug this out of one of my footlockers. Switched over to racks in 2000, so this hasn’t been worn in about 18 years. But it still works! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/32406/215B3065-90B4-4C66-8A2E-3ED59F19EC76-675654.JPG And Russia’s more modern ALICE-esque setup. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/32406/1E587084-A8F2-4320-AF10-9B3EC78C5F33-675683.JPG View Quote Is that the Blackhawk H-Harness ? |
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That's how you know it's working...
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Originally Posted By 2Manchu:
Not sure which rig you’re referring to, but the ALICE gear on top is with standard alice y-suspenders. The Russian rig below that comes with some fairly high speed h-types from the factory. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 2Manchu:
Originally Posted By 1fromtx: Is that the Blackhawk H-Harness ? Yea I was referring to the Russian setup. The bottom of the suspenders made me wonder that's why I asked. I liked the H-Harness better than the H-Harness but was never able to find one. Doubt I would of been allowed to use it anyway. Thanks |
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Nice! I just finished my set up a few days ago I'll post pics tomorrow.
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Originally Posted By 1fromtx:
Just updating a pic from the earlier post . https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/258466/20180922_142153-681169.JPG View Quote OTOH, if it is a Genuine USGI pistol belt, with genuine Davis buckle, consider selling on Ebay for a pretty penny. While worthless for field use, collectors love this sort of stuff. Fakes abound; the metal parts of the buckle should be stamped with maker's info/marks. |
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"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
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Originally Posted By raf:
The so-called "Davis-Buckle" on the belt pictured in the linked pic was infamous for becoming un-buckled at inopportune times. It was discarded after a short period of use in the field. Perhaps that is why some un-issued belts with that buckle are still around; the Mil didn't issue them because there were known problems, and many of them were kept in storage. OTOH, if it is a Genuine USGI pistol belt, with genuine Davis buckle, consider selling on Ebay for a pretty penny. While worthless for field use, collectors love this sort of stuff. Fakes abound; the metal parts of the buckle should be stamped with maker's info/marks. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By raf:
Originally Posted By 1fromtx:
Just updating a pic from the earlier post . https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/258466/20180922_142153-681169.JPG OTOH, if it is a Genuine USGI pistol belt, with genuine Davis buckle, consider selling on Ebay for a pretty penny. While worthless for field use, collectors love this sort of stuff. Fakes abound; the metal parts of the buckle should be stamped with maker's info/marks. Just called a Vietnam quick release buckle as far as I knew. It did come undone at least once on me that I remember for sure, but undoubtedly it happened more than once. Thanks for the info raf ! Edit for pic Your right @raf Attached File |
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