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Posted: 7/5/2010 9:15:36 AM EDT
How common are baffle strikes and how can I prevent them? How often do you clean a suppressor?
Link Posted: 7/5/2010 9:25:23 AM EDT
[#1]
Baffle strikes happen.  Not often, thankfully, but if you shoot a lot and own suppressors, eventually you'll have one.  I think the measure of your suppressor company isn't necessarily how quiet their can is, but also how well they can take care of the inevitable after the fact.  Of course that is just my humble opinion...

Also, centerfire cans really don't need maintenance - at least not the suppressor part.  If yours has a QD mechanism, some of those need periodic attention.
Link Posted: 7/5/2010 9:31:23 AM EDT
[#2]
The best way to prevent a baffle strike is to have a reputable shop thread your barrel.

There have been reports of factory threaded barrels that have threads not concentric to the bore.
Link Posted: 7/5/2010 11:42:33 AM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 7/5/2010 12:23:01 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Also, centerfire cans really don't need maintenance - at least not the suppressor part.


Really?  So you saying I shouldn't clean this buildup out when it starts looking like this?



And yes - I've only shot jacketed ammo through this can.  But the exposed lead base on FMJ ammo will still leave some stuff behind.  Fortunately, the blast baffle is stainless and I can just chip the buildup off.  X-ray exam has shown that the inner baffles have much, much less buildup.
Link Posted: 7/5/2010 1:50:48 PM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 7/6/2010 2:58:07 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
The exposed lead base on a 9mm is larger, the suppressors normally operate cooler, and the pressures are lower creating more optimal characteristics for leading.  

5.56mm suppressors shouldn't foul as badly or nearly as quickly, simply because to some extent temperature, pressure, and particles are going to blast some fouling away.  

I think what ends up happening is that copper fouling is more likely to build up in 5.56 suppressors because it has a higher melting point and isn't as soft as lead.  Obviously copper fouling is greatest when the rate of fire is most excessive and barrel temperature is elevated.

There are a lot of people with suppressors that have run 6000+ rounds and are working well.  One Gemtech customer had around 100,000 rounds on a M4-96D at which point some significant buildup had occurred.  It's a horse apiece at that point- you either build a can that comes apart and has potential for mechanical issues that can make it in-operable, or you weld one and fouling eventually claims it.  Suppressors don't last forever but they do last a long time.


I would be careful with blanket statements on rifle suppressor fouling.

In our experience and from talking to other industry folks, a properly manufactured, quality suppressor, will most likely meet its end due to fouling than actual baffle wear or erosion. But of course there is variation based on the particular suppressor design.

Best Regards!

Tuukka Jokinen
Ase Utra sound suppressors

Link Posted: 7/6/2010 8:04:20 AM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 7/6/2010 8:56:11 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
I think it's very rare for a person to fire more than 7000 rounds and there is little reason to be worried about suppressor fouling.  

People that post about fouling and cause people not to buy suppressors aren't doing anyone a favor.

5.56 suppressors that come apart for cleaning aren't a good idea in my opinion, and worrying about suppressor fouling to the extent that one doesn't buy a suppressor is like worrying about car trouble and spending your whole life riding a bicycle to work.


I agree with your comments, but just wanted to post that as a heads up to those folks who do shoot a lot through their suppressors.

Take Care!

Tuukka Jokinen
Ase Utra sound suppressors
Link Posted: 7/6/2010 11:40:57 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
The best way to prevent a baffle strike is to have a reputable shop thread your barrel.

There have been reports of factory threaded barrels that have threads not concentric to the bore.




YEP.  AKA the manufacturer you purchased it from.  Which Is what I do.
Link Posted: 7/6/2010 12:39:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Having properly mounted adapter is the #1 way to avoid baffle strikes. Taking care of your gear is always a good idea no matter what it is. We do suggest cleaning your suppressor from time to time. We are hooked on MPro7here at Surefire. It is great for removing carbon. We have a ultra sonic tank running a 1:1 with water and MPro7 but you can often find us using a heavy duty zip lock bag with MPro7 that we will soak a nicely fouled can in and let it sit over night in the safe. Rinse it out and give the back section a little scub with the nylon brush and blow it out with some air. It is then ready for duty.


Garin Lee
Surefire Suppressor Division Project Manager
Garin@Surefire
Link Posted: 7/6/2010 3:40:03 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Having properly mounted adapter is the #1 way to avoid baffle strikes.


Is this rocket science or what?
I don't understand how a person could screw this up.

First check that the bore is concentric with the threads. Simply use a vernier and measure the barrel/threads in several places around the muzzle. If OK, then you put in on, & time it so the bottom is in the proper position. You tighten it up so it won't unscrew.  Heck even if the end of the barrel is bent out several degrees (because the gun was dropped whatever), the adapter will somewhat straighten out the barrel.

Link Posted: 7/7/2010 9:09:19 AM EDT
[#12]
Pain there are people that do not check to see if the bore is concentric with the threads. They assume the factory did a correct job and just go. Also I have see odd things like using a used crush washer used as a shim to time the adapter and it canted the adapter so bad the bullet strike came out the front plate where it looked like snake eyes.
Link Posted: 7/7/2010 9:26:10 AM EDT
[#13]
I will let you know how my warranty work with YHM goes.  I just sent them one of my Silencers that need to be worked on.

I got a baffle strike just recently on my SBR.  I  checked the bore with Silencer on the barrel and looking down the bore it looked no different than bore without silencer.   I am not sure if it is the barrel or bullet stabilization issue.  The end cap and the last 2 baffles got hits on them.
Link Posted: 7/7/2010 5:42:13 PM EDT
[#14]
So what is the best way to confirm that the suppressor is straight, before you fire the gun?

I'd think that simply looking down the bore would be the easiest way. Any other ways that are better?
Link Posted: 7/7/2010 7:00:37 PM EDT
[#15]
I'm interested in how to check the threads as well. I had planned on having the shop where I ordered my stuff put my mounts on, however given how they did the first two I brought to them (had a YHM muzzle break/comp non flashhider instead of having the bottom of the break indexed to the bottom of the gun, it was to the right side. Not a little bit either way way off. Pretty sure they didn't use any rocksett either given that when I remounted it myself it came off pretty easy), I'll probably end up doing em myself.
Link Posted: 7/8/2010 9:47:04 AM EDT
[#16]
Honestly it is a job to do that. You can have a experienced smith check  from end to end on a lath. Barrel has to be pulled to do this. Honestly it is rare for factories to thread so bad that a strike happens. Outside of that buy from top quality companies and if a baffle strike happens with a properly installed adapter I believe companies should stand behind the product as a relationship to the customer. Surefire does....
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