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Forgive the dumb question. Im planning on getting a suppressor soon, don't have any first hand experience.
For the posts with high round counts do you guys clean the suppressors at all or are these just straight round counts no cleaning. If you are cleaning them what intervals are you doing it, and what methods. In particular I'm planning on getting a RC2, but just in general cases also. |
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It's interesting. The blast baffle looks like Van Gogh painted it in the post-impressionistic style.
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Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Originally Posted By AWZ1287: Forgive the dumb question. Im planning on getting a suppressor soon, don't have any first hand experience. For the posts with high round counts do you guys clean the suppressors at all or are these just straight round counts no cleaning. If you are cleaning them what intervals are you doing it, and what methods. In particular I'm planning on getting a RC2, but just in general cases also. View Quote If you are using solid base bullets for centerfire the crud is mostly carbon. Open base bullets (most FMJ) will result in lead build up as well, condensed from lead vapor mixed with carbon. It’s a good idea to weigh a virgin can. When it gains an ounce or two of build-up a little periodic cleaning extends life and keeps weight down. For carbon-deposits-only the use of solvents/cleaners such as Sea Foam, CLR descaler, Berries carb cleaner, etc. immersed or filled into a plugged can will help remove some-to-most of the crud. If lead is in the mix AND the can is only composed of stainless and/or titanium then “the dip” can be used to dissolve lead. The dip is periacetic acid, created by a 50/50 mix of vinegar (dilute acetic acid) and Hydrogen peroxide. This dissolves lead into hazardous lead acetate. Lead acetate is toxic by ingestion, skin and eye exposure. The “dip” wash is a hazmat solution to be disposed of through local hazardous materials drop-offs. Not something to splash onto yourself or keep around. Gloves, goggles, careful handling are indicated. |
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Originally Posted By Green0: They are probably cast. I think most stellite baffles are cast. If so those would be the ejector marks of the lost wax part that was ceramic slurried and baked as the sacrificial mold for the poured stellite parts on the tree comprising the casting for that pour. The properties of cast materials are unique to that process, and the properties of those processes are almost tradecraft to the casting industry. They have special publications they pay a lot of money for that are not generally public knowledge that discuss the formulas and properties of the various material/process parameter pairings. I had one bad experience with cast properties using 625 inconel, where I learned that 625 derives 50% of its strength from cold reduction (rolling bar or sheet), and the cast process for that material yields a high nickel alloy part about as strong as rolled 316L stainless steel. In other words stamped 625 is totally superior to cast 625. Obviously this is a different material application so I’m only illustrating the complexities of casting that can potentially complicate that. View Quote Very interesting. Thanks for the explanation. |
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On ne voit bien qu'avec le cœur. L'essentiel est invisible pour les yeux.
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Originally Posted By KalmanPhilter: If you are using solid base bullets for centerfire the crud is mostly carbon. Open base bullets (most FMJ) will result in lead build up as well, condensed from lead vapor mixed with carbon. It’s a good idea to weigh a virgin can. When it gains an ounce or two of build-up a little periodic cleaning extends life and keeps weight down. For carbon-deposits-only the use of solvents/cleaners such as Sea Foam, CLR descaler, Berries carb cleaner, etc. immersed or filled into a plugged can will help remove some-to-most of the crud. If lead is in the mix AND the can is only composed of stainless and/or titanium then “the dip” can be used to dissolve lead. The dip is periacetic acid, created by a 50/50 mix of vinegar (dilute acetic acid) and Hydrogen peroxide. This dissolves lead into hazardous lead acetate. Lead acetate is toxic by ingestion, skin and eye exposure. The “dip” wash is a hazmat solution to be disposed of through local hazardous materials drop-offs. Not something to splash onto yourself or keep around. Gloves, goggles, careful handling are indicated. View Quote Thank you, appreciate the help |
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Originally Posted By KSPeacekeeper: Someone here most likely has already posted this, but I wasn't willing to sort through everything to look. Here is the CGS Helios QD blast baffle before I shot it. Not sure how many rounds CGS put through it. https://i.imgur.com/8AsYFLn.jpg View Quote Very cool! I don't think anyone has posted one in this thread. Unfortunately my Helios QD Ti is still pending at 131 days... |
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On ne voit bien qu'avec le cœur. L'essentiel est invisible pour les yeux.
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Surefire RC2 just broke the 8k round mark, shot almost exclusively on 10.3/11.5” barrels.
Attached File |
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FREE COLORADO
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My old school SF 556-212, vintage 2007.
About 10k rounds on it - maybe a little more. Never been on a rifle with a barrel longer than 11.5. Spent some time on a full auto 416 for a bit too. A touch louder, but otherwise perfectly operational. Attached File |
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You wanna know how I did it? . . . This is how I did it . . . I never saved anything for the swim back.
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Mid 2000s baffles from a Gemtech Outback II, unsure of the round count. Maybe a few thousand. Replaced by ECCO with a removable stack.
Attached File |
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Living on your knees, conformity
Or dying on your feet for honesty |
Originally Posted By Green0: They are probably cast. I think most stellite baffles are cast. If so those would be the ejector marks of the lost wax part that was ceramic slurried and baked as the sacrificial mold for the poured stellite parts on the tree comprising the casting for that pour. The properties of cast materials are unique to that process, and the properties of those processes are almost tradecraft to the casting industry. They have special publications they pay a lot of money for that are not generally public knowledge that discuss the formulas and properties of the various material/process parameter pairings. I had one bad experience with cast properties using 625 inconel, where I learned that 625 derives 50% of its strength from cold reduction (rolling bar or sheet), and the cast process for that material yields a high nickel alloy part about as strong as rolled 316L stainless steel. In other words stamped 625 is totally superior to cast 625. Obviously this is a different material application so I’m only illustrating the complexities of casting that can potentially complicate that. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Green0: Originally Posted By SMFdarkangel: Does the Sierra 5 have MIM baffles? Those look a lot like ejector marks. They are probably cast. I think most stellite baffles are cast. If so those would be the ejector marks of the lost wax part that was ceramic slurried and baked as the sacrificial mold for the poured stellite parts on the tree comprising the casting for that pour. The properties of cast materials are unique to that process, and the properties of those processes are almost tradecraft to the casting industry. They have special publications they pay a lot of money for that are not generally public knowledge that discuss the formulas and properties of the various material/process parameter pairings. I had one bad experience with cast properties using 625 inconel, where I learned that 625 derives 50% of its strength from cold reduction (rolling bar or sheet), and the cast process for that material yields a high nickel alloy part about as strong as rolled 316L stainless steel. In other words stamped 625 is totally superior to cast 625. Obviously this is a different material application so I’m only illustrating the complexities of casting that can potentially complicate that. Green0, this is spot on. All Stellite baffles are cast--which provides optimal strength for this application. We won't MIM any baffles. There are places for MIM'd parts, but I haven't found a use case yet in a silencer that I want to build. For those wondering, casting involves an exact blend of the alloying materials being fully molten and it's poured into a mold. Depending on the metal, you can heat treat it get it to get exactly what you want out of it. Stellite comes out exceptionally well. The drawback is the tooling cost upfront for the molds and then the per piece price is much higher than a machined part. It's very labor and technology intensive to make. The interesting part is that it starts out by injection molding wax into a mold that is then built onto a "tree" of 60-120 parts connected together. That's why there are ejection pin marks. It's a relic of that first wax injection step and it passes all the way through to finished part. (Something I think is actually cool). The trees are then coated in a ceramic slurry and fired to create the actual mold used for the molten metal. The firing process of the ceramic melts out the wax--hence the alternate name for investment casting: "Wax Loss Method". After the metal is poured and cooled, then the ceramic is broken off yielding a big tree of Stellite baffles that need to be machined off and cleaned up into individual little baffles. MIM, typically involves mixing metal powder with binders, then that's heated and pushed into a mold and you get a "brown part" that's a mix of binders and metal powder in the shape that you want--but a little bigger. That brown part sees some cleaning and treatment processes that cook out the binders which then makes it a "green part". From there it's heated and sintered into the final part. Basically, the part shrinks as all the little metal particles melt together, and you end up with your final product. In the end, you get all the alloying elements, but it seems you rarely get the same material properties as wrought or cast materials. There are typically crystal grain structure issues and dimensional warpage to deal with. There are some amazing MIM processes out there, but I haven't found a use for them yet beyond really simple baffle designs like Sig and Q have been using. |
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I don't see a problem with MIM, but we machine our baffles. Mim gets a bad wrap, but it's a great technology for economical small parts. I have seen very strong mim parts. Baffles are towards the upper end of the part size envelope for MIM, so that isn't going to save much cost. The SRD22 baffles I saw were horribly low quality stampings. Maxim did high quality stampings in the early 1900's. I stamped a short run .22lr baffle similar to the SRD 22 once. I took one look at the initial sample and knew that wasn't functional and it didn't go forward. The stamping provider was explaining how the excessive tolerances were required due to the draw conditions of creating a tubular spacer from a flat part. It unfortunately wasn't a good fit. The sig tubular spacer in the cone baffle is identical almost to what I was looking at in 2006 with regard to the big radius and the excessive tolerance. The can looks like they put trash in the tube. It looks like a Star Wars level on a video game where you are challenged to try to fly some spaceship through the ominous looking staggered apertures of the frightening jagged hole.
It's nothing like a Griffin can or a Dead air Mask even. Both of those cans have a clean, straight bore and well machined, high quality components. No trash in the tube. Everything in there is finely made. We have had baffles quoted in castings and they were relatively inexpensive in my opinion, in exotic alloys- which makes total sense as the casting guys don't care what they pour in the cast and within reason can even change materials on an already produced mold some of the time. On a one ounce baffle, inconel vs carbon steel might be $0.75 of a $5 baffle. The process isn't like machining where you turn 90% of the material into chips that recycle at 8% of original cost. The cast materials don't get purchased with much if any waste stock, because there is only sprue removal to account for and that is usually remelted. The machined parts allow us to control quality and also to move R&D at a high speed. If we had castings, we would have a vendor to piss off if we made a change, and a tool to give us monetary reasons not to change, as well as quality and process issues that come with castings- warped parts, porosity and other issues. Its tough to make perpendicular faces on parts. That's in a machine where the qualified part is getting transferred. Our baffle components are held to ~.0002 TIR for face perpendicularity. |
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Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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If you are putting a lot of effort into arguing with me, you are probably really just wasting your time, sorry.
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Rex MG7 .224 with approximately 1000 rounds through it. This was discovered after 200 rounds of rapid semi-auto from an 8.3in gun. And yes, after this was discovered, Rex rebuilt the can with their "heavy duty" baffles via their warranty, at no cost to me.
Attached File |
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@Green0
@Mageever What are your thoughts on using 300c maraging steel for baffles? I know it's expensive but once heat treated has ~300k PSI yield strength @~53 Rc hardness and it is not brittle. It retains very good strength at high temp. Machines OK in the annealed condition and with the low temp heat treat shows little/no warping or size change. Second question. What is your opinion on having a ported first baffle vs a symmetric baffle? In my limited experience building form 1 cans an asymmetric first baffle results in greater point of aim change and loss of accuracy. |
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Originally Posted By Rich_V: @Green0 @Mageever What are your thoughts on using 300c maraging steel for baffles? I know it's expensive but once heat treated has ~300k PSI yield strength @~53 Rc hardness and it is not brittle. It retains very good strength at high temp. Machines OK in the annealed condition and with the low temp heat treat shows little/no warping or size change. Second question. What is your opinion on having a ported first baffle vs a symmetric baffle? In my limited experience building form 1 cans an asymmetric first baffle results in greater point of aim change and loss of accuracy. View Quote I think cost for material is about 2-5 times that of 17-4, because it is more exotic. (I haven’t quoted it in massive quantities so I can only look at small qty price comparisons). The marraging steel’s advantage declines at higher temperatures such that it is obviously superior at low temperature 70-1000f, and only a little better at elevated temperatures where the silencer is most threatened, and that is the best argument that it isn’t worth the cost. The machining cost of c300 would be at least double (possibly triple), because the nickle and cobalt content would require substantial sfm reductions. That doubles (or triples) Cnc machining cost before factoring material cost, and were talking adding $280-$430 to suppressor manufacturing cost- unsustainable before margin added cost in the current market. If you’re going to exotic materials, stamping or casting is the best way to do that and the c300 isn’t going to be the material of choice. Both stamping and casting stagnate product development because expensive dies have to be replaced to change a process. It’s important for suppressors to be economically sound, as well as high performance. In suppressors marketing statements haven’t always been true across all companies. There are companies that have said “all inconel” on good designs that are clearly 40% inconel. The economics of 100% cnc machined C-300 suppressors at ~$800, are just not likely to be feasible. It’s certainly not apples to apples, so if a US company can do that, something can’t be happening whether thats product support, or an effective comprehensive sales model, properly paying the staff, covering machine amortization, or whatever it is. Companies are compromised of people and people make mistakes, and financial mistakes can ruin companies. C300 is probably a good material for making stronger rifle bolts ala .277 fury- however I believe that industry is using c250. Im not convinced it makes a good case for replacing common use suppressor materials. |
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Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Don't let the join date fool you... here since '97
VA, USA
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Originally Posted By Green0: The economics of 100% cnc machined C-300 suppressors at ~$800, are just not likely to be feasible. It's certainly not apples to apples, so if a US company can do that, something can't be happening whether thats product support, or an effective comprehensive sales model, properly paying the staff, covering machine amortization, or whatever it is. View Quote |
www.HansohnBrothers.com
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Originally Posted By HansohnBrothers: Not throwing shade. @kedminster and Energetic have been able to machine 100% C300 silencers at ~$800 for several years now at no loss of the things you mention. Product support is fantastic, cans are still selling (actually increased their distributor footprint with Silencer Shop), have hired more staff, bought new equipment and knowing Karl probably not late on his bills. View Quote They state some of the parts in the cans are not C300. So they are not 100% C300 as far as I can tell. My response however was not about any company, it was my honest assessment of C300 as a suppressor material for use in this industry today, in response to a question about that. I'm just talking about realities. If for example a multi-tasking turning machine runs at $180 an hour, and the work takes two extra hours, those should get billed at $360. If the material was $40 and now is $160, that should be billed as an additional $120. I've had silencers that cost $520 (back in 2010/2011), and that I paid people $10 to buy, because their $510 didn't cover cost. That however isn't how successful business gets conducted. You can keep that alive as long as you have $10 to give every customer. You could also make a can out of solid 24K Gold, and if it doesn't have better performance, it shouldn't be worth more money to a person who isn't going to melt it for scrap prices. Material is just one characteristic, and strength is achieved by a combination of many factors. We live in a world where that is pretty obvious with things like powdered metal components on cars we drive. Take the Allen AEM 5 for example. From what I understand it's low numbered 300 series stainless. It works awesome. It does what you need it to do. There is nothing wrong with that. |
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Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Don't let the join date fool you... here since '97
VA, USA
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Originally Posted By Green0: They state some of the parts in the cans are not C300. So they are not 100% C300 as far as I can tell. My response however was not about any company, it was my honest assessment of C300 as a suppressor material for use in this industry today, in response to a question about that. View Quote |
www.HansohnBrothers.com
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Originally Posted By HansohnBrothers: Was just expanding on the C300 comment. Since Energetic is the only company using C300 in silencer manufacturing, that was the best counter to your argument regarding C300. As for the Vox, the front cap and ring are stainless, rear cap is Ti; the baffles and tube are C300. View Quote I get that. Time will tell if the new ownership is successful with Energetic. |
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Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Originally Posted By Mesooohoppy: I wish this thread was more active. I love seeing all of the different blast baffle designs. View Quote On that topic @green0 any chance you could take pics of the Sig SLX can you have? I'm also interested in pics of any Griffin cans even if they're unfired just to see the baffles (at least for the non-servicable ones, your website has pics of the serviceable ones disassembled that display the baffles somewhat). From what I've seen it's mainly older revisions that have been posted here which makes sense. Unfortunately I don't remember who reported the sharp internals on the flow 556k and the thread is archived now so I can't see the usernames. If anyone remembers please tag them here for me. |
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Originally Posted By Mr_Goodkat: Agreed. In particular I'd love to see pics of the inside of the Huxwrx Flow 556k. Partially due to the reports that out of the box the insides were very sharp but also just because it's a 3d printed flow through can which is somewhat new. On that topic @green0 any chance you could take pics of the Sig SLX can you have? I'm also interested in pics of any Griffin cans even if they're unfired just to see the baffles (at least for the non-servicable ones, your website has pics of the serviceable ones disassembled that display the baffles somewhat). From what I've seen it's mainly older revisions that have been posted here which makes sense. Unfortunately I don't remember who reported the sharp internals on the flow 556k and the thread is archived now so I can't see the usernames. If anyone remembers please tag them here for me. View Quote The sig internals are visible in one of the Kras sig patents. Drawings up to 7e with the hexagonal holes in the blast chamber pretty well show the sig exactly as it is. After 7e the patent has a lot of drawings that have no relevance to the sig slx qd can I have. The longer, larger, very complex 556qd Kras can sounds similar to our Dual lok 5 and the Kras can is louder in front, and its first round flash is brighter. I don’t know what Kras’s background is, but if he doesn’t have a lot of time in suppressor design, he did a pretty good job with the Sig can (and I hadn’t heard of him until pretty recently, so he probably has short time in suppressors). This is a recent patent of mine. The parts look simple but the features are all tuned (the result of a lot of work and testing), and they perform really well. When the parts don’t have really crazy extraneous geometry, lighter strong cans are possible. My recent patent on some eco flow stuff. I try to avoid coaxial elements and elements that increase internal surface area as they tend to foul badly, increase heating, add weight, and insulate internal components from cooling. |
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Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Originally Posted By Green0: The sig internals are visible in one of the Kras sig patents. Drawings up to 7e with the hexagonal holes in the blast chamber pretty well show the sig exactly as it is. After 7e the patent has a lot of drawings that have no relevance to the sig slx qd can I have. The longer, larger, very complex 556qd Kras can sounds similar to our Dual lok 5 and the Kras can is louder in front, and its first round flash is brighter. I don't know what Kras's background is, but if he doesn't have a lot of time in suppressor design, he did a pretty good job with the Sig can (and I hadn't heard of him until pretty recently, so he probably has short time in suppressors). This is a recent patent of mine. The parts look simple but the features are all tuned (the result of a lot of work and testing), and they perform really well. When the parts don't have really crazy extraneous geometry, lighter strong cans are possible. My recent patent on some eco flow stuff. I try to avoid coaxial elements and elements that increase internal surface area as they tend to foul badly, increase heating, add weight, and insulate internal components from cooling. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Hox: Are the drawings in your patent you linked different than the current eco-flow baffles? I've got an Explorr .224 in the works View Quote The Explorr looking can in the patent has a different baffle in the patent drawings. The Bushwhacker.46 is pictured as it is manufactured. It has some relationship to the Explorr baffle system, but those baffles are a bit different and the blast and second baffles are heavier wall thickness than the rest. There are 4 individual baffle part numbers among the 5 baffles in an Explorr .224 can. |
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Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Purchased in 2018
~10,000 rounds, some full auto mag dumps belongs to a friend of mine Attached File Attached File |
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Who cares what she thinks? My cat thinks licking his asshole is fun, he's obviously not too bright so I'm not too concerned about what his opinion on gun control is.~AIMLESS
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Don't let the join date fool you... here since '97
VA, USA
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Originally Posted By 103M95G: Purchased in 2018 ~10,000 rounds, some full auto mag dumps belongs to a friend of mine https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/136574/4C59F7E4-A953-47D4-A3FA-8E7DFD83F03F_jpe-2659406.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/136574/85FDFBBF-1F47-4129-9408-B775CFACCADC_jpe-2659407.JPG View Quote |
www.HansohnBrothers.com
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Let's see some .50 BMG cans, anybody?
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When baffles get worn, can the owner of a legally owned suppressor replace the baffles on their own? I'm not talking about changing the design of the suppressors, altering basic shape, changing serial number or changing any of the identifying info on the suppressor..just replacing the blast baffle/s.
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Originally Posted By Genin: When baffles get worn, can the owner of a legally owned suppressor replace the baffles on their own? I'm not talking about changing the design of the suppressors, altering basic shape, changing serial number or changing any of the identifying info on the suppressor..just replacing the blast baffle/s. View Quote No you can’t. And that sandman S baffles are not worn out. That’s carbon build up. |
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StrikeEagle,
Other than knowing a permit is required to keep a suppressor legal, I don't know all that much about the small legal details that could get someone in trouble. I'm not surprised that BATFE is so restrictive, it just seems overkill to not allow an owner to replace a small inner piece that doesn't affect the look, size, or caliber of the suppressor..the devil is in the details seems appropriate. Thanks for the response. |
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Don't let the join date fool you... here since '97
VA, USA
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Originally Posted By Genin: When baffles get worn, can the owner of a legally owned suppressor replace the baffles on their own? I'm not talking about changing the design of the suppressors, altering basic shape, changing serial number or changing any of the identifying info on the suppressor..just replacing the blast baffle/s. View Quote |
www.HansohnBrothers.com
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Originally Posted By EP4T: Let's see some .50 BMG cans, anybody? View Quote Attached File Barrett QDL - Zero rounds @EP4T |
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Originally Posted By aksahsalahs: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/101965/0CAB46C4-23DA-4348-B9DB-A692440D7142_jpe-2660478.JPG Barrett QDL - Zero rounds @EP4T View Quote That blast chamber… I wonder how many barrels you'd go through before you wear through the blast baffle… |
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Originally Posted By 11B3XCIB: They’re not worn out but that’s not carbon. There are some fragments missing like the Sandmans on page 4 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 11B3XCIB: Originally Posted By StrikeEagle15: No you can’t. And that sandman S baffles are not worn out. That’s carbon build up. They’re not worn out but that’s not carbon. There are some fragments missing like the Sandmans on page 4 To me it looks like the carbon built up then broke off and the baffles are fine underneath. |
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Originally Posted By StrikeEagle15: To me it looks like the carbon built up then broke off and the baffles are fine underneath. View Quote @Mageever would know best, but I believe he has stated before, about another sandman with similar damage, that the baffle in the picture is actually chipped. It’s something with the way stellite reacts to minor baffle strikes. |
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Originally Posted By aksahsalahs: @Mageever would know best, but I believe he has stated before, about another sandman with similar damage, that the baffle in the picture is actually chipped. It’s something with the way stellite reacts to minor baffle strikes. View Quote That's a chipped out piece of the blast baffle. It can happen when a bullet yaws or has a jacket separation--especially during full auto fire. If it were just erosion, you'd see a lot more of that depth removed all the way around. |
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Originally Posted By rdb2403: https://i.ibb.co/q56cS83/A9808-DA6-727-C-4868-BA7-C-AFE1-ACD664-E2.jpg KG Made integrally suppressed M2 barrel. It appears to be a reflex design. The muzzle of the barrel is located near the seam approximately 1/3 of the way into the can. I didn’t get a picture of the internals. This is not mine. View Quote Whoa! |
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This is in the top 10 threads on this site. Gotta work harder to get my sandman looking like the one above!
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Not living or dying on my knees
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Attached File
Attached File I've stopped trying to keep count but this Turbo has to be over 15k rounds at this point. |
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