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Hmm I never heard that. I know my buddy got quoted a case of their rifle grenades. They all take 12ga blanks for an impact charge.
I'll have to ask message Matt and ask him about it. I was thinking of using their launch charge kits anyway |
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LOL I also inquired about their rifle grenades and Matt told me the same thing. F1.
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I wonder what kind of MOQ and price you could get on a bunch of cast steel/iron bodies?
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I don't know, but I'd be intrigued.
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Well, I just sent a rough body drawing for some information. If they are reasonable, I would try to do something with standard threads so that people could DIY fuses and fin assemblies.
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Well... The first response I got was 15k in tooling, but $25/part.
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Lightning from the Sky, Thunder from the Sea!
Twitter/Instagram: benunsuppressed https://americanpioneercorps.org |
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Originally Posted By Ben: There is a company in Pennsylvania that is actively making M49A2 bodies. But I doubt they'd sell them to you, even empty bodies. View Quote Those are 60s aren't they? I assume that there are manufacturers making components, but I also assumed that they would never sell them to a non government entity. Just like everything else fun... 1500 pcs would come out to $35 ea for the bodies, add machining and fins/fuses. I would think it would be pretty easy to stay under $100/Rd cost. But I don't think the community is big enough to support 1500 rounds. I should be done with my tube this month. Then hopefully I can start experimenting with ammo. |
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I'm going to use rolling paper to make my increment charges for my 60mm, in the same dimensions as the cellulose ones the military used. They should burn rapidly and completely, and leave no residue. Haven't done it yet, though. It would not be weatherproof, but I think there may be some coatings that would fix that.
The problem with using some materials is that if it leaves residue in the bore, you could have problems with a 'hung' round... that gets stuck in the bore when you drop it. If you do not use the correct procedure to clear it, you can hurt yourself seriously. Also, it would deadline the mortar until you thoroughly cleaned it. I haven't seen any 3d printed materials that I would consider using. |
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Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Those are 60s aren't they? I assume that there are manufacturers making components, but I also assumed that they would never sell them to a non government entity. Just like everything else fun... 1500 pcs would come out to $35 ea for the bodies, add machining and fins/fuses. I would think it would be pretty easy to stay under $100/Rd cost. But I don't think the community is big enough to support 1500 rounds. I should be done with my tube this month. Then hopefully I can start experimenting with ammo. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MHIDPA: Originally Posted By Ben: There is a company in Pennsylvania that is actively making M49A2 bodies. But I doubt they'd sell them to you, even empty bodies. Those are 60s aren't they? I assume that there are manufacturers making components, but I also assumed that they would never sell them to a non government entity. Just like everything else fun... 1500 pcs would come out to $35 ea for the bodies, add machining and fins/fuses. I would think it would be pretty easy to stay under $100/Rd cost. But I don't think the community is big enough to support 1500 rounds. I should be done with my tube this month. Then hopefully I can start experimenting with ammo. Damn, yeah, that's a lot of mortars. |
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It depends, playing lawn darts, yes. Doing real 2A stuff, not as much. Lol
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Lol that is true.
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Originally Posted By eodinert: I'm going to use rolling paper to make my increment charges for my 60mm, in the same dimensions as the cellulose ones the military used. They should burn rapidly and completely, and leave no residue. Haven't done it yet, though. It would not be weatherproof, but I think there may be some coatings that would fix that. The problem with using some materials is that if it leaves residue in the bore, you could have problems with a 'hung' round... that gets stuck in the bore when you drop it. If you do not use the correct procedure to clear it, you can hurt yourself seriously. Also, it would deadline the mortar until you thoroughly cleaned it. I haven't seen any 3d printed materials that I would consider using. View Quote D&S creations seems to be having good results with their 3D printed rounds. I agree though gotta keep an eye on fouling |
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Bowman has the demilled Italian 81s up on their site now.
I ordered one. Tagging this thread for future reference. |
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Originally Posted By Sonoran_Tj: Bowman has the demilled Italian 81s up on their site now. I ordered one. Tagging this thread for future reference. View Quote I ordered a couple just now...BTW, send me a text man. I changed phones again because my old one got the commie phone HIV while I was overseas. |
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Lightning from the Sky, Thunder from the Sea!
Twitter/Instagram: benunsuppressed https://americanpioneercorps.org |
Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Look into Graphene OS - runs on Google phones only, but one of the more secure Android distros. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By Ben: I ordered a couple just now...BTW, send me a text man. I changed phones again because my old one got the commie phone HIV while I was overseas. Look into Graphene OS - runs on Google phones only, but one of the more secure Android distros. Google scares me worse than most governments. |
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Lightning from the Sky, Thunder from the Sea!
Twitter/Instagram: benunsuppressed https://americanpioneercorps.org |
Originally Posted By Ben: Google scares me worse than most governments. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Ben: Originally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By Ben: I ordered a couple just now...BTW, send me a text man. I changed phones again because my old one got the commie phone HIV while I was overseas. Look into Graphene OS - runs on Google phones only, but one of the more secure Android distros. Google scares me worse than most governments. Yes - which is why you replace the OS. |
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Death to quislings.
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Our new-production 81mm tube arrived for our Yugoslavian M69 mortar. Big thanks to Robert at Hamilton and Sons Firearms for hooking us up.
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FFL 10 / FEL 20 / SOT 02 / PA Certified High-Explosive Blaster
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Did your cup come that bare or did you prep it for paint?
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Originally Posted By TreddBarton: Our new-production 81mm tube arrived for our Yugoslavian M69 mortar. Big thanks to Robert at Hamilton and Sons Firearms for hooking us up. https://i.postimg.cc/cLXkL7Vv/IMG-1894.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/X7KDT6Lc/IMG-1895.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/pL21vc1N/IMG-1896.jpg View Quote Nice, and yep, big thanks to Bob and the guys at H&S. Timing couldn't have been better to get these up and running. I'm hoping the weather stays clear this Saturday so I can finally shoot mine. lol |
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I called H&S about getting a tube made for the Italian 81mm. They quoted $3000 for a one-off tube. They said their material and shop costs are high these days compared to previous runs of tubes.
Here's to hoping more people with Italian 81s want to go in on a batch of tubes, hopefully that would bring the price down. |
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Originally Posted By Sonoran_Tj: I called H&S about getting a tube made for the Italian 81mm. They quoted $3000 for a one-off tube. They said their material and shop costs are high these days compared to previous runs of tubes. Here's to hoping more people with Italian 81s want to go in on a batch of tubes, hopefully that would bring the price down. View Quote I was told that Vega/destructivedevices.com has replacement barrels for the Italian mortars and their $2200. You just have to call. But they are supposedly 82mm and not 81mm? I just ordered one of the kits myself. I'm a shooter more than a historical collector, so I'll probably just weld and sleeve the tube. Its not something I'm holding up to my shoulder and I won't shoot 1/4 of the power of original loads. I like seeing where they hit. |
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Originally Posted By eodinert: I'm going to use rolling paper to make my increment charges for my 60mm, in the same dimensions as the cellulose ones the military used. They should burn rapidly and completely, and leave no residue. Haven't done it yet, though. It would not be weatherproof, but I think there may be some coatings that would fix that. The problem with using some materials is that if it leaves residue in the bore, you could have problems with a 'hung' round... that gets stuck in the bore when you drop it. If you do not use the correct procedure to clear it, you can hurt yourself seriously. Also, it would deadline the mortar until you thoroughly cleaned it. I haven't seen any 3d printed materials that I would consider using. View Quote The 81mm HE I fired still used the treated long thin bags full of powder, a tyvek like material on the HE. The 81mm Illumination, mostly had a pure cotton poplin long thin bag full of powder for increments. The doughnuts were only on the M800-series and Brit made HE ammunition that were reserved for war stocks during my time. 4.2in had the single round powder ring and the total of 41 "cheese" charges......nitroglycerin/parafin blend I think it was. Regardless, every 10 or so rounds you are going to want to swab the tube between fire missions. If you are going to shoot these things, then read up on the TMs, practice the misfire procedures and procedures for clearing the tube. That new barrel, what's the caliber length of that thing? Looks excessively long. That's why I dig the 8,0cm GrW 42 Stummelwerfer. |
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1995 M1025A2 5SFG GMV ODA525 "Hammerhead"
1995 M1025A2 3SFG GMV ODA391 "Roughnecks" 1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 061 " Horney Toad" |
@walkinginadangerzone
Have you gotten/made lift charges? What are you using? |
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Originally Posted By MHIDPA: @walkinginadangerzone Have you gotten/made lift charges? What are you using? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MHIDPA: @walkinginadangerzone Have you gotten/made lift charges? What are you using? I made 4 charges based on the data Josh provided from weaponsguild. I'm using 32gr of bullseye and packing them about the same way as he did. I purchased some primed 12 gauge shells, fiber filler wads, and shot cards to load the lift charges from ballistic products. Dope so far with barrel at 45 degrees. 20 gr 20 yds 25 gr 53 yds 28 gr 78 yds 30 gr 86 yds 32 gr 120 yds Going to work my way up to reach 200yds at 45 degrees, then I want to set my barrel at a higher angle and work my way back to 200yds again. Gonna have a range day with some friends so I might not get to work on all the reload data that day. But I'll post up what I get. |
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Originally Posted By stoner63a: You've got to have a cleaning swab rod and a cleaning brush rod for mortar systems. Also, its not the residue on the 81mm or 60mm that causes the most hang-fires or misfires. ITs loose charge increments. Over anxious ammo bearer not being careful pulling the unused increments can cause the ones left to become unhooked. If unhooked from the top clip that charge can get caught between the fins/round and the tube. The 81mm HE I fired still used the treated long thin bags full of powder, a tyvek like material on the HE. The 81mm Illumination, mostly had a pure cotton poplin long thin bag full of powder for increments. The doughnuts were only on the M800-series and Brit made HE ammunition that were reserved for war stocks during my time. 4.2in had the single round powder ring and the total of 41 "cheese" charges......nitroglycerin/parafin blend I think it was. Regardless, every 10 or so rounds you are going to want to swab the tube between fire missions. If you are going to shoot these things, then read up on the TMs, practice the misfire procedures and procedures for clearing the tube. That new barrel, what's the caliber length of that thing? Looks excessively long. That's why I dig the 8,0cm GrW 42 Stummelwerfer. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By stoner63a: Originally Posted By eodinert: I'm going to use rolling paper to make my increment charges for my 60mm, in the same dimensions as the cellulose ones the military used. They should burn rapidly and completely, and leave no residue. Haven't done it yet, though. It would not be weatherproof, but I think there may be some coatings that would fix that. The problem with using some materials is that if it leaves residue in the bore, you could have problems with a 'hung' round... that gets stuck in the bore when you drop it. If you do not use the correct procedure to clear it, you can hurt yourself seriously. Also, it would deadline the mortar until you thoroughly cleaned it. I haven't seen any 3d printed materials that I would consider using. The 81mm HE I fired still used the treated long thin bags full of powder, a tyvek like material on the HE. The 81mm Illumination, mostly had a pure cotton poplin long thin bag full of powder for increments. The doughnuts were only on the M800-series and Brit made HE ammunition that were reserved for war stocks during my time. 4.2in had the single round powder ring and the total of 41 "cheese" charges......nitroglycerin/parafin blend I think it was. Regardless, every 10 or so rounds you are going to want to swab the tube between fire missions. If you are going to shoot these things, then read up on the TMs, practice the misfire procedures and procedures for clearing the tube. That new barrel, what's the caliber length of that thing? Looks excessively long. That's why I dig the 8,0cm GrW 42 Stummelwerfer. 57 1/2 inches, like the original serb barrels. |
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Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: I was told that Vega/destructivedevices.com has replacement barrels for the Italian mortars and their $2200. You just have to call. But they are supposedly 82mm and not 81mm? I just ordered one of the kits myself. I'm a shooter more than a historical collector, so I'll probably just weld and sleeve the tube. Its not something I'm holding up to my shoulder and I won't shoot 1/4 of the power of original loads. I like seeing where they hit. View Quote Thats good news. I see the 81 tubes on their website, but no way to add to cart and no price. I also can't find their phone number on the website, do you have it? A more general question, what are yall using for mortar sights? European sights seem to be hard to come by, the Italian sight being especially rare. I'm pretty sure the modello 35 will accept a U.S. sight with the same dovetail. M4 collimator sights would be closest to historically correct. It should accept an M34 mortar sight as well. The M34 is a telescopic sight. Does anyone here have an M4 mortar sight? I'd like to know what the sight picture looks like and how the collimator works compared to the telescopic mortar sights I'm more familiar with. |
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Considering that I'll never shoot anything but line-of-sight, I'm mounting a cheap NOS surplus m15 rifle grenade sight to a barrel clamp for my 60mm. This is what the paratroopers did in ww2 I believe. It even has a built in bubble level and you can set the angle of the sight.
For the 81mm I'll probably do something similar unless I find a great deal on a proper sight. But I think I can do pretty well once I get good DOPE |
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Also, to contact Vega, use the message form on their website. That's how I've worked with them
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The Ordnance Fairy made another visit today. Attached File
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This is a different ingnition system I saw yesterday, even though he says so much wrong in the video:
Firing a 60mm Mortar |
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1995 M1025A2 5SFG GMV ODA525 "Hammerhead"
1995 M1025A2 3SFG GMV ODA391 "Roughnecks" 1984 Chenowth M1040 Fast Attack Vehicle 061 " Horney Toad" |
Those are rhe Finnish smoke mortars. I stupidly passed on the barrel for one last year.
The nice thing is that you can shoot concrete filled soup cans out of them. No need for special ammo. Dolf used to buy those for like $5ea and gave some away to friends. That was before 68' though |
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Does anyone have a US fuse that can measure the major diameter of the threads?
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Originally Posted By MHIDPA: The Ordnance Fairy made another visit today. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/60540/1000002763_jpg-3211172.JPG View Quote Lucky, where did you find those? |
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Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: I'm getting 1.49 on mine. https://i.imgur.com/IJlWRQD.jpeg View Quote Thanks Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Lucky, where did you find those? View Quote An Army buddy who was an 11C. |
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Awesome, did you try the spotting fuse?
ETA, I wonder if the misfires were related to the 45° angle. Seems like the steeper it is, the better the rounds would fall. |
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What rounds were you using? When we were shooting my buddy's with the hollow polish ammo, they would take a lot longer than I was used to before it hit the firing pin. Maybe the new barrel bore is even tighter and you need a heavier round. Also check your firing pin protrusion as I believe it's adjustable on these. We were also shooting a higher angle to get about 100yds.
Here is a video of me shooting it. You can see me pull away quickly and then hesitate as it took much longer than I expected. The other mortars go off quick https://youtube.com/shorts/oJ4QMklNkj8?si=6kLMY4b6fvcPIo8e |
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Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: What rounds were you using? When we were shooting my buddy's with the hollow polish ammo, they would take a lot longer than I was used to before it hit the firing pin. Maybe the new barrel bore is even tighter and you need a heavier round. Also check your firing pin protrusion as I believe it's adjustable on these. We were also shooting a higher angle to get about 100yds. Here is a video of me shooting it. You can see me pull away quickly and then hesitate as it took much longer than I expected. The other mortars go off quick View Quote Video? |
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Lightning from the Sky, Thunder from the Sea!
Twitter/Instagram: benunsuppressed https://americanpioneercorps.org |
I didn't get to try the fuze set up, after reloading launch charges and then dealing with misfires and unloading the shells, I just completely forgot, then remembered at the end, but by that time the sun was already setting and I didn't feel like loading up another launch charge lol.
Of note, I think once you have a misfire that launch charge is done for. The brass gets concaved that the firing pin won't hit the primer properly a second time, I think. As for the angle, I did try setting it up at a higher angle, but still had a misfire. BUT I used one of the shells that already had a misfire on the launch charge. So that could've been the issue. This range session was kind of a cluster fuck but a learning experience lol, forgetting that the safety was on only to try and launch a shell but it not going off, so gotta unload the tube and remember the safety again then reset up everything lol. Planning on working some more load data to get the shells at 200yds next weekend again. My guess is that 50 gr of powder should get me to 200yds. Then I'll get to work on loading some hotter charges to get the shells back out to 200yds with a higher angle on the tube. |
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The only video I got from that range day that fired, cause mine were mostly misfires lol. This shell was the one with the 45gr lift charge and went the 150yds.
Friend shooting it. mortar 3rd firing |
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Good info, I saw on the other thread someone said that the original full power charge was 120gr.
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Originally Posted By SGT-Fish: What rounds were you using? When we were shooting my buddy's with the hollow polish ammo, they would take a lot longer than I was used to before it hit the firing pin. Maybe the new barrel bore is even tighter and you need a heavier round. Also check your firing pin protrusion as I believe it's adjustable on these. We were also shooting a higher angle to get about 100yds. Here is a video of me shooting it. You can see me pull away quickly and then hesitate as it took much longer than I expected. The other mortars go off quick View Quote The solid black and white French rounds that bowman had for sale. I emptied out the tar and sand. I was also thinking that maybe they were too light coupled with the barrel angle, which is what led to the misfires. The firing pin is about all the way it'll go without interfering with the safety. But I'll try one of the newer ones next time and see what happens. |
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Well, I think I found the issue with the misfires, turns out surface rust was starting to developed towards the end of the tube and cup so that would've explained the rounds slowing down creating misfires. Im an idiot lol
So note to self, gotta clean and scrub the barrel throughly with gun oil a day before use. Unfortunately I cleaned it about 3 weeks ago and we just had a freaking heat wave this week with high humidity, so that didn't help. Also installed the aftermarket firing pin which protrudes a little more than the factory one, so hope it helps. Round 2 this weekend. |
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Finally finished pressing (beating) my sleeve on the tube. It's a good interference fit, I had to alternate a propane torch and canned air (liquid) to get it in place. I'll take it to get welded along with the holes from the bore obstruction. After cutting it down it's right at 50" which is the same length as the US M252.
It also looks like the fuse threads are 1.5-12 UNF, so I'm going to order a tap to clean up the threads on my practice rounds. |
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