User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 9:16:46 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR: I failed at reading the last part of the instructions. After an hour to air dry, I jumped right in and did all 3 heat and cool cycles to cure it. I didn't realize that you are supposed to let it air dry for a WEEK before you start the heat curing steps. It looked fine but its fragile as heck. Just bumping it on anything and the paint scratches and or chips. Its my fault.....maybe I'll remove it and try again. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR: Originally Posted By Lilpooh: Originally Posted By Overton-AR: Originally Posted By Lilpooh: Overton-AR, how did the paint job come out? It turned out like crap.....I am NOT a painter. I am going to get it done in air dry cerakote. That sucks, what do you think went wrong? Prep, heavy coat? I failed at reading the last part of the instructions. After an hour to air dry, I jumped right in and did all 3 heat and cool cycles to cure it. I didn't realize that you are supposed to let it air dry for a WEEK before you start the heat curing steps. It looked fine but its fragile as heck. Just bumping it on anything and the paint scratches and or chips. Its my fault.....maybe I'll remove it and try again. What was your tube prep? Should use brake cleaner or acetone to completely degrease everything twice. If the parts have a high sheen to them (shiny) they should be scuffed or sanded to allow the paint something to physically adhere to. The waiting 1 week isn't typically required but you do want most of the off-gassing to have finished so the paint doesn't bubble when you bake it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 9:18:01 AM EDT
[#2]
And I guess I'll join the picture sharing...
Assembled can:  The core is stainless, I've forgotten if it's 304 or 316. The outer tube is 0.070" gr9 Titanium, it's much thicker than needed but minimized the machining required. Core:  Mostly wire EDM was used to make this shape, the threading & detailing was done on a manual lathe and CNC mill. Rear view:  The internal threads are a bastard 12tpi ACME I made to match some QD brakes I've made. Front:  The pattern cut in here was to remove weight while the holes are for a pin wrench. In hindsight, the pin wrench isn't as useful as I thought. I should have made a way to lock the tube from rotating on the core and skipped the pin wrench feature. As it is, I'll be adding a key or alignment pin to the core and broaching a keyway into the tube to accomplish this. Seems I didn't take a full photo of the brake, but here's part of it:  |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 10:17:21 AM EDT
[#3]
Very impressive can.....I love you the monocore.
|
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 10:34:57 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By grn_zx6r:
What kind of paint did you use? That header paint I used turned out good. Let is hang in front of a heater for 24hrs then did the heat/cool cycles in the oven. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By Lilpooh:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By Lilpooh:
Overton-AR, how did the paint job come out? It turned out like crap.....I am NOT a painter. I am going to get it done in air dry cerakote. That sucks, what do you think went wrong? Prep, heavy coat? I failed at reading the last part of the instructions. After an hour to air dry, I jumped right in and did all 3 heat and cool cycles to cure it. I didn't realize that you are supposed to let it air dry for a WEEK before you start the heat curing steps. It looked fine but its fragile as heck. Just bumping it on anything and the paint scratches and or chips. Its my fault.....maybe I'll remove it and try again. What kind of paint did you use? That header paint I used turned out good. Let is hang in front of a heater for 24hrs then did the heat/cool cycles in the oven. Was this on a Titanium tube? I'm just wondering if the Ti material isn't allowing the paint to stick, either in raw form or it the heat of the oven is causing the Ti to form a oxidize layer to prevent the paint to stick. |
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 10:37:13 AM EDT
[#5]
Nice monocore!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 10:39:16 AM EDT
[#6]
Yes it was on my Ti tube.
|
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 10:43:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Lilpooh]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR:
Yes it was on my Ti tube. Oops, I was quoting grn-zx6r. Wanted to know if his was Ti. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 10:56:17 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lilpooh:
Oops, I was quoting grn-zx6r. Wanted to know if his was Ti. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lilpooh:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Yes it was on my Ti tube. Oops, I was quoting grn-zx6r. Wanted to know if his was Ti. No mine was SS. Sanded tube with 1000 grit, painted it in a heated garage, hung tube in front of a heater for 24 hours then followed the heat/cool process on the can. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 11:45:52 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By grn_zx6r:
No mine was SS. Sanded tube with 1000 grit, painted it in a heated garage, hung tube in front of a heater for 24 hours then followed the heat/cool process on the can. I will give that a try. 
|
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 2:19:08 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR:
I will give that a try.
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
No mine was SS. Sanded tube with 1000 grit, painted it in a heated garage, hung tube in front of a heater for 24 hours then followed the heat/cool process on the can. I will give that a try.
Google "painting titanium", a quick search on the bike forums (Ti frames) says you need a paint etch primer first. Now I don't know of the primer effects the heat paint or if the primer can withstand high heat mag dumps. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/10/2015 2:29:45 PM EDT
[#11]
VHT offers an etching primer.
However if you can blast or adequately sand the parts, that will offer the same benefit as an etching primer. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/14/2015 12:26:05 AM EDT
[#12]
Well the paint doesn't look very good, but the good news is.....my iPhone takes such crappy pics...you can't even tell how bad the paint looks.
|
|
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 3/14/2015 3:22:02 AM EDT
[#13]
Planning on at least one Form 1 titanium build soon, possibly two. The second would be for a 338 Edge. Has anyone here built a 338 can? How much more beefy would it need to be than the typical builds here for 30cal stuff?
Any input is greatly appreciated. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 1:37:37 AM EDT
[#14]
Guys I have some questions, bear with me. A month ago I spent a weekend reading the two huge $100 threads, and came back tonight and found that they've grown exponentially, plus now I see this one. What I have in mind is gonna cost more than $250, so I figured I'd post here.
I have a YHM Phantom that I use on my 308s, but I want to build a dedicated direct-thread F1 can for my 300BLK, subs only. Right now its got a Vltor CASV on it, so max outside diameter needs to be 1,5", and less is better. I also want to keep is as light as possible, so Ti is probably what I will end up using, at least as much as possible. My issue is that I have no machinist skills or equipment, and the machinist I have used in the past is backed up many months. So I need advice on how to plan out this build using parts that essentially require either no modification, or modification that I can do with basic power tools and very little skill. I am still thinking of using VSGs and freeze plugs; I bought the freeze plug former from the Ebay guy a few weeks ago. But it seems that there are now more options for tubes, spacers, etc. So I am almost back to the drawing board. So.... advice on ready-made parts for a fairly lightweight, mostly titanium direct--thread can that can be assembled by an amateur? I looked at (inexpensive) 308 cans, and the titanium ones are $700+. I'm hoping to come in below that, but I realize this will be more costly than a maglite tube build. I'm fine with that as I want this can be be completely reliable and last for a long, long time. Thanks and hope this is not out of place. I am in awe at the work being done in this thread, I just lack the skills and equipment to do it. |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 2:18:20 AM EDT
[#15]
I have an order in with DM, a machinist that has become rather well known on here for his work, he quoted me 3-4 weeks lead time on work through him, so you might go back and look up his details in this thread. Everything here but the beautiful custom lathe work, which is really out of scope for the intent of this thread, is dummy proof, essentially. Drill it out, Screw it on, press it in, sand and paint.
|
|
|
CT, USA
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 8:39:01 AM EDT
[#16]
Guys if you want a nice paint try Norrells if you have an air brush and a oven it is a serious coating and easy to use and looks good. It goes on very thin I think like .0003"-.0009"
http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/ |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 12:55:13 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tucansam:
Guys I have some questions, bear with me. A month ago I spent a weekend reading the two huge $100 threads, and came back tonight and found that they've grown exponentially, plus now I see this one. What I have in mind is gonna cost more than $250, so I figured I'd post here. I have a YHM Phantom that I use on my 308s, but I want to build a dedicated direct-thread F1 can for my 300BLK, subs only. Right now its got a Vltor CASV on it, so max outside diameter needs to be 1,5", and less is better. I also want to keep is as light as possible, so Ti is probably what I will end up using, at least as much as possible. My issue is that I have no machinist skills or equipment, and the machinist I have used in the past is backed up many months. So I need advice on how to plan out this build using parts that essentially require either no modification, or modification that I can do with basic power tools and very little skill. I am still thinking of using VSGs and freeze plugs; I bought the freeze plug former from the Ebay guy a few weeks ago. But it seems that there are now more options for tubes, spacers, etc. So I am almost back to the drawing board. So.... advice on ready-made parts for a fairly lightweight, mostly titanium direct--thread can that can be assembled by an amateur? I looked at (inexpensive) 308 cans, and the titanium ones are $700+. I'm hoping to come in below that, but I realize this will be more costly than a maglite tube build. I'm fine with that as I want this can be be completely reliable and last for a long, long time. Thanks and hope this is not out of place. I am in awe at the work being done in this thread, I just lack the skills and equipment to do it. There are certainly options available that will meet all of your needs. I have had a few (5) tubes done by Diversified Machine out of Michigan. If you need his contact info send me a PM. His work is second to none and a worth while investment. My 300BLK tube he built for me is lighter and quieter than my GemTech Quicksand. You are right as well on the budget......to do it right, strong and light with durable baffles you will be over the $250 mark for sure. This type of build is EXACTLY what I started this thread for. Let me know if you have any questions or need DM contact info. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 3/17/2015 11:10:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ARogueNinja]
[#18]
8.2 OAL
7.6" TI tube, engraved locally |
|
|
MO, USA
|
Posted: 3/18/2015 11:54:35 AM EDT
[#19]
whats the part number on the valve retainers?
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 3/18/2015 10:27:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ARogueNinja]
[#20]
Not sure...
ETA: Assembled can. 19.2 oz |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/18/2015 10:31:31 PM EDT
[#21]
For those of you using direct-thread, how are you locking down the two ends to prevent the can from working loose (internally, not from the barrel) during use. Also, how are you locking the can down on the barrel, so that when you untighten it, the can comes off the barrel vs. the adapter staying on the barrel and the tube itself unscrewing from the adapter?
I thought about set screws to lock the ends down, maybe. Also, has anyone looked at this: http://solventtrapparts.com/products/1-18-1125-od-aluminum-solvent-trap-tube-kit (I am in no way affiliated, just looking to build a mostly alum can for a .22LR and like that the spacer material come with) Thanks. |
|
|
|
OR, USA
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 12:13:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: xacex]
[#22]
I am using Rocksett on the ends of the suppressor, and just check to make sure the can is tight on the barrel with extended shooting sessions. As it heats up it will come loose with direct thread in my experience.The kit in the link is ok, but they do not mention type of aluminum, and I would not direct thread with a aluminum adapter. You will get galling of the threads eventually due to carbon buildup.
|
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 7:06:36 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JohnnyO223:
Mill and rotary indexer Copied the Saker. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 6:31:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: goloud]
[#24]
Anyone have a line on VRS with a bore for 9mm and a diameter for the SDTA "D" tube? Prefer Ti, but I would settle for stainless.
Would it be possible to (accurately) rebore the VR with just a drill press and not a lathe? Thanks. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 6:33:30 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By goloud: Anyone have a line on VRS with a bore for 9mm and a diameter for the SDTA "D" tube? Prefer Ti, but I would settle for stainless. Would it be possible to (accurately) rebore the VR with just a drill press and not a lathe? Thanks. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 6:40:01 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AlabamaPaul:
You can open the bore on Ti VSRs, but you'll need a low speed for the drill press and plenty of coolant... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AlabamaPaul:
Originally Posted By goloud:
Anyone have a line on VRS with a bore for 9mm and a diameter for the SDTA "D" tube? Prefer Ti, but I would settle for stainless. Would it be possible to (accurately) rebore the VR with just a drill press and not a lathe? Thanks. Thanks My cheap press has only one speed: Gonzo. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 7:23:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rodent]
[#27]
I'm surprised that no one has started manufacturing deep-skirted, pre-formed, stainless-steel freeze plugs yet.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2015 8:39:35 PM EDT
[#28]
I'm thinking about buying some stainless steel sheet metal:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/stainless2.phtml?page=sheet&LimAcc=%20&aident= And using a 1 3/8" hole saw (34.9mm): http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/bi-metal-speed-slot-hole-saws.aspx To try and form some baffles. I'm wondering what a good thickness would be to not only press, but save weight and still be robust enough to withstand punishment. |
|
|
|
WA, USA
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 2:22:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dpmmn]
[#29]
<edited.........Banned Spammer.........dpmmn>
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 4:13:57 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By goloud:
I'm thinking about buying some stainless steel sheet metal: http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/stainless2.phtml?page=sheet&LimAcc=%20&aident= And using a 1 3/8" hole saw (34.9mm): http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/bi-metal-speed-slot-hole-saws.aspx To try and form some baffles. I'm wondering what a good thickness would be to not only press, but save weight and still be robust enough to withstand punishment. Why not just use the 1 3/8 SS freeze plugs that are already made for you? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 4:57:49 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rodent:
I'm surprised that no one has started manufacturing deep-skirted, pre-formed, stainless-steel freeze plugs yet. Pre-formed into a baffle shape really starts to push the limits of being able to claim you are actually manufacturing freeze plugs, and not something that was designed to readily be converted into a baffle. I doubt any company wants to invite ATF scrutiny like that. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 5:00:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dpmmn]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DC6943: <edited.........Banned Spammer.........dpmmn> Interesting. Is SDTA an SOT? That's the only way I could see them getting the ok to sell full on silencer parts to the masses. Hopefully they do a better job on these than on their YHM adapters |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 6:04:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Undaunted]
[#33]
I've put a couple hundred rounds through mine.
9" AOL in SS Caps take up .42 each 1.5 OD 1.375ish ID 8 steel VRs, clipped and milled out on the back side. 2" blast chamber, staggering down. Last 3 are spaced at .5" Ti spacer material - .036" wall. Direct thread-on for a dedicated 10.5 pistol host in .556. No total weight yet, but its a pig. Fine for a 10.5, but long guns deserve Ti. Total build less than $250. Sound is awesome and performs better than a quicksand. Rookie mistakes: (1) I nicked up my end cap...twice.  No baffle strikes, but I feel like an idiot. I am going to apply a little blue loc tite to see if it will gum it up enough, but I'll be giving it an oven-mit twist reqularly.
(2) My caps are frozen. I thought a little break-in period would be fine before I used anti-seize, but.... Question: I clocked the clips. Is there a consensus on clocking vs. in-line? I don't care about POI shift because the can will live on the gun. Finally - I just want to thank those that contributed to the various threads this Spring on the F1 builds and e-filing (35 days for me). I have so many book-marked threads on suppressors from 5-6 years ago, but could never pull the trigger. Great expense - huge wait time. This "movement" is awesome!  </a>" />
 </a>" />
 </a>" />
Keib |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 6:07:41 PM EDT
[#34]
^^ great looking build
9" can is begging to be a heavy gal Talk to bigwaylon about the guy he used to turn down the OD of his SS tube to drastically cut weight |
|
|
|
MO, USA
|
Posted: 3/20/2015 7:59:56 PM EDT
[#35]
I'm interested in doing a f1 build similar to yours. Any chance you can tell me where to pick up the parts to complete this build? And do they have similar parts not made from titanium. I'm not super interested in weight savings. Thanks!!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 10:02:33 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bzugger:
I'm interested in doing a f1 build similar to yours. Any chance you can tell me where to pick up the parts to complete this build? And do they have similar parts not made from titanium. I'm not super interested in weight savings. Thanks!! If you aren't interested in exotic materials or saving weight you are in the wrong thread. There is another "HUGE THREAD" that can fill you in on the basics. |
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 3/24/2015 10:25:34 AM EDT
[#37]
Ever since the "other" thread was disbanded, I have lost all of my saved info; filtering through 160 pages isn't my idea of fun. I have a couple of questions regarding the final touches on my can. I will be using this can ( 30 cal design) on 308, 300blk, 5.56, and 6.5 grendel, so subsonic and supersonic. I have read that baffle spacing from 5/8 to 1/2 inches (going from muzzle to end cap) will be ideal for super sonic rounds, which will be the majority of rounds fired through this can. I am planning on using 6 VSRs for baffles (can is 8" overall length with me designating about 1.5" to blast chamber and space for the Griffin flash comp mount). Should I change my spacing idea or my baffle count?
Second question: for those of you using a dremel to do your clipping on VSRs, what was the best way to keep the clipping centered? I don't have access to a mill or anything similar, but I don't want this to look like a half-assed job with the rest of the build being fairly nice. If it helps me get answers, I promise to provide pictures as soon as I get this completed.
Thanks |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/24/2015 11:39:02 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kronus92:
Ever since the "other" thread was disbanded, I have lost all of my saved info; filtering through 160 pages isn't my idea of fun. I have a couple of questions regarding the final touches on my can. I will be using this can ( 30 cal design) on 308, 300blk, 5.56, and 6.5 grendel, so subsonic and supersonic. I have read that baffle spacing from 5/8 to 1/2 inches (going from muzzle to end cap) will be ideal for super sonic rounds, which will be the majority of rounds fired through this can. I am planning on using 6 VSRs for baffles (can is 8" overall length with me designating about 1.5" to blast chamber and space for the Griffin flash comp mount). Should I change my spacing idea or my baffle count? Second question: for those of you using a dremel to do your clipping on VSRs, what was the best way to keep the clipping centered? I don't have access to a mill or anything similar, but I don't want this to look like a half-assed job with the rest of the build being fairly nice. If it helps me get answers, I promise to provide pictures as soon as I get this completed.
Thanks I am not sure about the spacing preference for supersonic, but I prefer them to be closer to 3/4". It all depends on the VSR that you use. I am using Crane 99678 Ti VSR's and I had to go to a 2" blast chamber to clear my Griffin comp mount. Then on my spacing I went with .8" on the first couple, then .7" and down to .6" for the last couple. I don't remember exactly, but I used to have them written down somewhere. Probably in the thread that was LOCKED and TRASHED. 
|
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 3/24/2015 1:15:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: kronus92]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Overton-AR:
I am not sure about the spacing preference for supersonic, but I prefer them to be closer to 3/4". It all depends on the VSR that you use. I am using Crane 99678 Ti VSR's and I had to go to a 2" blast chamber to clear my Griffin comp mount. Then on my spacing I went with .8" on the first couple, then .7" and down to .6" for the last couple. I don't remember exactly, but I used to have them written down somewhere. Probably in the thread that was LOCKED and TRASHED.
Thanks. I had originally planned on going with 0.8" spacing to start with, but I kept seeing 5/8 to 1/2". If you are needing 2" for yours to clear, I may need to check mine once my stamp comes in. I am currently setting mine up to use a 2" ~12lb spring inside the blast chamber to keep the baffle stack in place so I don't have to worry about precisely fitting spacer material for the blast chamber, so at least I'll have some room to alter length with the compression. I can't believe that thread was deleted, it had so much information in it. One question down, one to go. For anyone using a dremel, how did you center your clippings on your freeze plugs/ VSRs? |
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 3/24/2015 7:02:10 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kronus92:
Thanks. I had originally planned on going with 0.8" spacing to start with, but I kept seeing 5/8 to 1/2". If you are needing 2" for yours to clear, I may need to check mine once my stamp comes in. I am currently setting mine up to use a 2" ~12lb spring inside the blast chamber to keep the baffle stack in place so I don't have to worry about precisely fitting spacer material for the blast chamber, so at least I'll have some room to alter length with the compression. I can't believe that thread was deleted, it had so much information in it. One question down, one to go. For anyone using a dremel, how did you center your clippings on your freeze plugs/ VSRs? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kronus92:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
I am not sure about the spacing preference for supersonic, but I prefer them to be closer to 3/4". It all depends on the VSR that you use. I am using Crane 99678 Ti VSR's and I had to go to a 2" blast chamber to clear my Griffin comp mount. Then on my spacing I went with .8" on the first couple, then .7" and down to .6" for the last couple. I don't remember exactly, but I used to have them written down somewhere. Probably in the thread that was LOCKED and TRASHED.
Thanks. I had originally planned on going with 0.8" spacing to start with, but I kept seeing 5/8 to 1/2". If you are needing 2" for yours to clear, I may need to check mine once my stamp comes in. I am currently setting mine up to use a 2" ~12lb spring inside the blast chamber to keep the baffle stack in place so I don't have to worry about precisely fitting spacer material for the blast chamber, so at least I'll have some room to alter length with the compression. I can't believe that thread was deleted, it had so much information in it. One question down, one to go. For anyone using a dremel, how did you center your clippings on your freeze plugs/ VSRs? I did not use anything to center. I eyeballed mine and it came out damn near perfect. What I used was my rotary tool with one of the carbide cutting bits for cutting metal that costs $10 at Lowe's for the Dremel. I used my work bench to lay the retainer flat and wore my work gloves with rubberized fingers to keep it still, went slow at first until it started cutting and then let the tool do the work... hope that helps ya |
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 3/24/2015 7:55:39 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ARogueNinja:
I did not use anything to center. I eyeballed mine and it came out damn near perfect. What I used was my rotary tool with one of the carbide cutting bits for cutting metal that costs $10 at Lowe's for the Dremel. I used my work bench to lay the retainer flat and wore my work gloves with rubberized fingers to keep it still, went slow at first until it started cutting and then let the tool do the work... hope that helps ya Thanks. That sounds like my type of measurement. As promised, I'll get pictures once my stamp is approved. |
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 3/24/2015 9:24:37 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kronus92:
Ever since the "other" thread was disbanded, I have lost all of my saved info; .... Thanks link |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/24/2015 9:46:30 PM EDT
[#43]
|
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 3/25/2015 1:45:36 AM EDT
[#44]
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 3/25/2015 10:36:36 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Doc_Hurley:
.... You sir, are a goddamned American Hero. Can't take credit. It was another member's doing. I was just passing on the link. Glad I could help, though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2015 6:06:17 AM EDT
[#46]
Thanks all around for preserving Ryan's thread. There was a boat load of great info there. Ryan did a lot of work research machinists and getting some great products in the works for the masses.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2015 3:44:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bradpierson26]
[#47]
This is the sketch I plan to provide the machinist to turn down a 7.6" SDTA SS tube.
Any thoughts? 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2015 5:18:59 PM EDT
[#48]
Going to look a little odd with that extra step, without any kind of millwork in one of the sections. But it should be fairly light.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2015 7:04:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bradpierson26]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigWaylon:
Going to look a little odd with that extra step, without any kind of millwork in one of the sections. But it should be fairly light. I'm not following... Amy said their tubes are 1.500" so I wouldn't touch the area over the threads with a 0.200" buffer. The area over the blast chamber is going to be a little thicker, 1.480" OD probably out of paranoia, and then the area over the baffle stack will be 1.450" Hope that clarifies |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/26/2015 7:20:24 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bradpierson26: I'm not following... Amy said their tubes are 1.500" so I wouldn't touch the area over the threads with a 0.200" buffer. The area over the blast chamber is going to be a little thicker, 1.480" OD probably out of paranoia, and then the area over the baffle stack will be 1.450" Hope that clarifies Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bradpierson26: Originally Posted By BigWaylon: Going to look a little odd with that extra step, without any kind of millwork in one of the sections. But it should be fairly light. I'm not following... Amy said their tubes are 1.500" so I wouldn't touch the area over the threads with a 0.200" buffer. The area over the blast chamber is going to be a little thicker, 1.480" OD probably out of paranoia, and then the area over the baffle stack will be 1.450" Hope that clarifies |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
