Just a warning, I'm going to be as detailed as I can so this will be a long read!


After I posted I had just purchased a surplus HMMWV in this thread, at the request of Schott8283 I'm starting this thread to lay out what I've gone through in the purchase process for people who may be interested in purchasing one too, with the hope that people who know more than I do chime in and fill in any blanks I'm sure to leave.

Here's my truck I just bought:




















She's a 1994 M998A1 with a 6.2L diesel with 38,669 on the odometer. She runs and is intact from what I can see in the pictures (minus a broken mirror). There were 50 bids on my truck with me winning it at $9,500, up from a $5,000 opening bid.


First where do you find HMMWVs for sale? Just head on over to GovPlanet, the company awarded the contract by the US Government to sell off these trucks, to find the current inventory. From what I have heard, this was a first batch of roughly 4,000 trucks released by the government to see how sales would go. Sales started about a year ago and they are more than half way to 4,000 (2,600ish as of my posting this).

From there you will be able to narrow the inventory down by state and auction end time. Auctions are held weekly on Wednesday. Inventory listed is typically out two weeks.

Definitely read through the FAQ thoroughly. It will answer almost any question you've got. That said I did run into a mistake in it that has yet to be corrected by GovPlanet that I will detail below.


Now you'll have to decide if you want to buy something close enough to pick up yourself or if you want to have it shipped to you.

Shipping will, of course, cost more the further the truck is from you. That said, picking it up yourself can be cheaper if you live close to where it is located or don't mind a little travel. My truck I just purcased is about 4.5 hours from me so I'm going to be making a day of picking it up with my brother and a friend.

If shipping it, you will have the option to get an estimate from Veritread on shipping it from where it is located to you. This can found on every truck's listing on the right hand side.

If you are picking it up yourself, you can either trailer it or flat tow it.

Trailering is preferable from what I've read from people that have done both. Flat towing can be a bit of a task as the HMMWVs can manhandle a truck that is not up to the task. To flat tow it safely you'll need the military tow bar setup designed for the truck. The complete tow bar package will likely cost you $400-$600 if you can't find one to borrow. You'll also have to disconnect the half shafts (shafts that connect from the differentials to the geared hubs that drive the wheels, also known as portal axles) to safely tow it without damaging the transmission or transfer case. Just putting it in neutral will not suffice as either the transmission or transfer case will not properly lubricate itself. I can't recall which off the top of my head without looking it up but, trust me.

If you want to trailer it but don't have a trailer you can rent a U-Haul flat bed transporter trailer. It must be one of the newer models (galvanized as opposed to orange painted). The newer ones are wider and have a higher weight rating than the older ones. Also, if you truthfully tell U-Haul what you are planning on putting on it, they will deny you the rental because they believe it is too big/heavy. You'll have to... *ahem* stretch the truth as to what you're putting on it. From what other people have said, the HMMWV will fit (albiet snugly) and the trailer can handle the weight.

If your truck is running, when picking it up, bring fresh batteries and an air pump so you won't have problems loading it.

Now for the error in the GovPlanet FAQ. You may see in the FAQ that if you have your truck shipped to you, you will not be liable for the sales tax for the state it is in if shipping it out of that state. This is incorrect straight from a GovPlanet rep I spoke with on the phone after I made my purchaes. They are collecting sales tax regardless of whether you have it picked up by a shipper or pick it up yourself. I was originally going to pick it up myself but found through the Veritread estimate on the site that it would have been cheaper to have it shipped if the sales tax wasn't collected. After the purchase I called GovPlanet to find out how to schedule the pickup since it can't be picked up until your EUC clears (I'll go into this later). That's when I found out about the tax situation. So, if you are having the truck shipped, factor the shipment cost and sales tax into your final price. That said, if you are tax exempt for any other reason you can get your sales tax you have to pay refunded. No idea how that works but there is a section in the FAQ about it and process for it.


Here we get to selecting the truck you want.

After you've found the truck you want, I recommend picking another one or two trucks you can fall back on should you be outbid. Then again, if you have enough patience, you can always just wait until the next auction. I didn't end up with my first choice truck! I had originally bid on a 1992 M998 that ended up selling for $12,750, above my $12,250 max bid (it had 10,000 fewer miles, looked cleaner, and had a 6.5L diesel and full cargo cover).

When selecting a truck, read the description and look over the pictures very thoroughly. Unless you happen to live close enough to schedule an inspection, that is all you'll have to go off of for vehicle condition. If you do live close enough, you can contact GovPlanet who will put you in touch with the local rep to let you on site to look the truck over. I did not go inspect my truck prior to purchase though I will try to sometime between now and when I receive it.

You will find the trucks listed in various running conditions such as "running", "needed jump started", "needed ether", "not running", or listed otherwise.

Advice I had seen given was that GovPlanet will typically do what they can within reason, short of replacing parts or making repairs, to get a vehicle running so that it will sell for a higher amount.  If it isn't running it could be missing vital parts or it could have a cracked piston/head/block or some other catastrophic damage. Needing a jumpstart is likely not a big deal, possibly a dead battery or at worse a faulty charging system. If it needs a shot of ether, it could be a fuel delivery issue or possibly bad fuel. These trucks have been sitting for a while so things like that and flat tires are not uncommon. Again, if loading it yourself, bring fresh batteries and an air pump for this very reason! But, if it isn't running at all, there's quite possibly a very good reason for that and you should bid accordingly while possibly going so far as planning on replacing the drivetrain. Since even if you can inspect it, you can't tear it down, any non-running truck is going to be a gamble.

Besides being in various running conditions, you will also find trucks in various states of repair. Some will be nearly 100% complete while I've also seen stripped bodies on frames with partial engines being sold. A good bit of advice I once saw posted is that if it is missing parts, there could be a very good reason the unit it was with decided to start cannibalizing it. Maybe the transmission is slipping or maybe it doesn't stay running. Regardless it was seen as a more expendable vehicle for a reason. I'm sure a lot of readers, military or otherwise dealing with keeping fleets running, have experienced this first hand. Of course, you will pay more for a more complete and well running truck. Then again if you don't mind a challenge you can potentially save a lot of money. Just know that missing or broken parts that need replaced can add up and potentially be hard to find! My truck had a broken passenger mirror. I figured it wouldn't be a big deal finding some new glass for it since I've done that before on other vehicles. After several hours of searching I turned up nothing and was forced to buy an entire mirror assembly. Individual mirrors were around $90-$100 with eBay being the best source. Given that the individual mirrors were priced what they were and the driver side mirror's paint was pretty faded, I decided to purchase a pair which ended up putting the price of both mirrors at about $80 each since it was a package deal. I also have an ignition instruction plate that is unreadable. Finding a replacement was a chore but was located.

From people with experience, trucks with body damage or paint damage will require extra care in repairing them so bid on those accordingly as well. The bodies are aluminum so typical body repair shops may or may not be able to make repairs. The paint is CARC (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating) and is typically nasty stuff when applied or sanded and requires certain precautions some shops might not be able to handle.

Another thing to keep in mind is that despite what the odometer reading is listed as, it may not accurately reflect the mileage on the truck! Speedometers are switched out without much regard to the mileage except it being recorded in the maintenance logs (which you will not have access to). Compare the trucks typical wear spots with the mileage to see if it matches up. Also, sometimes trucks are put through a depot rebuild and this may be reflected in the odometer reading, especially if it is very low. These trucks will have placards/stickers to reflect the depot maintenance but I have seen that GovPlanet tries to avoid advertising these placards/stickers because they cannot verify if the trucks have actually been through the depot repairs. The part with the placard/sticker may have simply been cannibalized off of another truck that had and if they sell it advertised as having been done, only for the buyer to find out it hasn't, they're libel.


Now we come to the actual purchase.

As I mentioned, auctions are held weekly on Wednesdays.

Each truck is listed at a starting price based on condition. Running trucks are now being started at $5000 (down from $7500) and non-running and salvage trucks are being started at less than that.

The acutual auction time for each truck only lasts for 4 minutes and below is why.

The bidding process is a little bit different than most places you may have participated in. On GovPlanet you can bid at any time before or during the auction using what they call PriorityBid. Here is the FAQ section on what the PriorityBid is:

PriorityBid is our system for placing bids during the preview period of an auction. A significant amount of all bidding in our auctions occurs with PriorityBids; more than 70% of items typically have bids on them before auction day. Because they are placed during preview, PriorityBids have a delayed effect on the price of an item: the price does not change until the auction opens. There are several advantages of using PriorityBids:

   You do not have to be at your computer on auction day. When you place a PriorityBid, you specify the maximum you are willing to pay for an item. You will be told immediately if yours is the highest bid placed so far, but you will not know how much of your bid amount remains to protect you from later bidders. Your bid amount is confidential and our auction software will keep you in the lead against competitive bids through the preview and on auction day or until your maximum amount is exceeded. If you get outbid by another PriorityBid, an automatic email will immediately be sent to you.

   You can win the item for less than your maximum amount. In our style of auctions, the price the winner pays is determined by the price the runner-up was willing to pay. The final price is never more than one bid increment greater than the next-highest bid. So, if you have little competition, you can win an item for less than your maximum amount. We recommend you determine your "no regrets" price—the price at which, if someone else were to win, you would not regret the outcome—and then bid one increment below that.

   Bidding early helps ensure that you are the winner. When competing PriorityBids are placed for the same amount, the earliest bid takes precedence (it has Priority at that price), so submitting your bid early gives you an advantage. You can place a PriorityBid online any time day or night, or by fax during our Customer Care hours.

   Freedom to keep an eye out for other bargains. PriorityBids give you the freedom to browse and track other items on auction day without worrying about your "must-have" items. Our system acts as your assistant, constantly monitoring your PriorityBids and keeping you in the lead until the price goes beyond your designated maximum bid amount.

As auction day approaches, you can check the status of your PriorityBids in the Buying List of My Account. Make sure your email address and notification settings are correct in My Account Profile so that you can receive outbid notification emails. Before even being outbid, you can increase the maximum on any of your PriorityBids by placing a new PriorityBid on the same item for your new maximum amount (don't worry, you can not outbid yourself). Like all bids, PriorityBids are binding and can not be retracted nor reduced.


That pretty much lays it out. Bid what you're willing to go to before the auction starts. You won't know what the actual price is but if you get outbid at any point they will notify you via email and you can up your max bid if you want. If you bid a certain amount first, you get priority if someone else bids the same amount after you.

Also, bids are in $250 increments.

When deciding how much to bid, as I mentioned above, you will have to add in sales tax and transportation costs. That's not all though! You'll also have to factor in title costs as well as a 10% buyer fee! The title option with a Florida state off road title, a SF97 (essentially a federal government title), and a bill of sale will run you $150. Just the bill of sale and SF97 is cheaper but, you'll have to know if your state has any problems with dealing with SF97s. The Florida state title option was developed to help buyers deal with states that have problems with SF97s. Just the bill of sale is cheaper still but that may not be enough for some states. Know what is good for your state or err on the side of caution and get the full package!

I bought my truck for $9500. Between the 6% Kentucky state sales tax, the full titling option, and the 10% buyers fee I ended up with about an extra $1750 added to my purchase price. Then I've got to add in trailer rental and fuel costs to go pick it up.


And here we get to the post auction process.

So you've won your auction! Congratulations!

There are now some steps to take to finalize your purchase.

You will start by going through the checkout process. Here you will decide if you're shipping your truck or transporting it your self, selecting your titling options, and then finalizing the invoice total based on the options. After the invoice is finalized you will pay GovPlanet via wire transfer. Payment must be made within 3 business days or you may incur late fees usually $25-$50 per day depending on final sale price. If you go past a certain time, your item may be considered abandoned and you get charged an even bigger fee. There's also other stuff listed here.

But paying for it isn't the only thing you have to do!

On your account page you will be sent links (on the right hand side of the main account screen) to fill out your Hold Harmless Agreement which gets sent to one email address. You can print it out, physically sign it, and then physically mail it in. You can physically sign it, scan it, and then email it in. Or you can digitally sign it and email it in.

Most importantly, since the HMMWV is a defense article, you will have to fill out an EUC - End Use Certificate. This basically lets Uncle Sam know the final disposition of the item you're buying - if you're going to keep it, sell it, exporting it or not and if you are you have clearance to. This may seem to be a daunting part but GovPlanet has conveniently set up a form wizard that will assist you in filling it out correctly with descriptions of each field needing filled out. You will also need to send in a copy of your driver's license (preferably) or other government issued ID. Make sure your scan/photo of your license is crystal clear or your EUC may get kicked back after a very lengthy initial time period delaying you even further! Just like with the Hold Harmless Agreement you can send it in using one of the previously mentioned methods. It will be emailed to a different email address than the Hold Harmless Agreement though.

Directions are included with both forms.

First time EUC filers like I am can expect a 8-12 week wait. If you've previously filed an EUC with GovPlanet (GovLiquidation not included!) within, I believe the last year, your wait will be considerably shorter. This part is a bit like the whole NFA application and waiting game!


Here I'm getting to the pickup process and since I haven't yet picked up my truck, can only relay what information I've gleaned.

After your payment is received and your EUC is cleared you have 8 business days to remove your truck or you'll incur storage fees. Now, not to worry, if there are incidental delays GovPlanet will work with you so long as you are making a good faith effort to pick it up. This is word straight from a GovPlanet manager on Steel Soldiers. They simply put that there to keep people from abusing the time given to pick up the truck.

To pick up the truck you'll have to schedule a pick up time. If you are picking it up, it should be as simple as it sounds. If you're having a shipper pick it up, the pick up time will have to be coordinated between GovPlanet, your shipper, and you. You don't need to be on site for the shipper to pick it up.

Since I'm fuzzy on this part if you have any questions it would be best to call GovPlanet for clarification at 1-844-225-8799, Monday-Friday 6am-5pm Pacific.


Once you've got your truck at your site, it is not recommended you hop in and start cruising around! Your truck may have been sitting for months or a year or more!

A full fluid change is recommended. Since these are diesels, Shell Rotella T is a good motor oil. Replace other fluids as recommended by AM General. Specifications can be found in military TMs which are available at Steel Soldiers and other sites. Add fresh fuel, draining as needed to get a good mix to burn off the old stuff.

Check all of your important fasteners like lugnuts to make sure they are secure. Some very important fasteners unique to the HMMWV design are the bolts that connect the differential to the half shaft and the half shaft to the geared hubs. These can work their way out and should have some blue Loctite applied to prevent that. If they come loose they can damage brakes and other equipment!

Check for any leaks GovPlanet may have missed.

If you run into anything that was not on your inspection report, report it right away to GovPlanet to take advantage of their Iron Clad Guarantee which basically states they will disclose any problems as best they can. If they examine your claim and find it valid, they will refund a portion of your purchase price. If it's something internal and you knowingly bought a non-running truck don't count on any sort of refund. If you bought what appears to be a complete truck and it's missing say a mirror or seat, or it has some other problem that wasn't listed, you will likely see some money coming back to you. When in doubt file a claim. Worst case they deny it.


Now at this point we get into a topic that Steel Soldiers will not permit on their site: Titling, plating, and insuring for road use.

If you do bring it up, the topic will be deleted and you may be banned. For some reason they think that violating the purchase agreement and putting these trucks on the road will cause Uncle Sam and GovPlanet to stop selling them.

When you sign the Hold Harmless Agreement with GovPlanet, part of it states that you acknowledge the HMMWV is not roadworthy. The Florida title and SF97 are also stamped "Off Road Use Only":




That said, in many states, there are methods of titling off road vehicles for on road use. Check local laws! We've tried to compile instructions for various states below.

(Old Ohio registration information contained within)
Click To View Spoiler

For insurance, a number of companies out there will insure military vehicles. You'll have to call around. Although Steel Soldiers doesn't allow discussion about insuring the HMMWVs for road use, they do have a list of companies that have been known to insure military vehicles.


If you want technical information on the HMMWV there are two great resources

Steel Soldiers
G503.com

Despite my thinking that banning certain discussions about on road use of HMMWVs on Steel Soldiers is stupid, both have excellent information on HMMWVs and other military vehicles. Steel Soldiers also has one thing G503 doesn't which is a section dealing with the intricacies of purchasing from GovLiquidation and GovPlanet. A GovPlanet manager with the username of "Jwade" also participates in the HMMWV purchasing threads there answering questions and helping clear roadblocks you may run into. This thread is a good place to find him. (Update: "Jwade" is no longer with GP, Phil Hasty has filled his role.)


While waiting for my truck I've already started picking up accessories for it. If anyone wants me to I can go into what I've been picking up and why but customizing your truck will come down to what you like!


So, this is where everything currently stands with me. If anyone who has gone further in the process or has more detailed knowledge spots missing/incorrect information could contribute, it would be most appreciated!

HMMWV How-To Tech Links:

• Cutting Down 2 Man Troop Seats To Fit A 4 Man Truck


• Making Soft Half Doors

HMMWV Reference Material:

• HMMWV Operator and Technical Manuals

UPDATED 7/19/2017: State Registration Instructions

Ohio:
As of April 21, 2017 The State Of Ohio Department Of Public Safety, Bureau Of Motor Vehicles, Title Division sent the following Title Broadcast to all state title offices:



This is being used as justification by the BMV to (incorrectly) deny accepting the 3803 forms mentioned previously (to the point of claiming the form no longer exists). There have been conflicting reports of whether the BMV is continuing to accept registration for HMMWVs with valid, on road out of state titles. So far there has been no rescinding of on road titles for currently titled trucks.

THE BELOW IN THE SPOILER BOX FOR THE STATE OF OHIO SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ON THE PREVIOUS PROCESS!


Click To View Spoiler


Georgia: (Thanks to Lawman734)
The Georgia procedures manual states that to register a former military vehicle, it has to have been titled elsewhere (like a FL or MT title) or an SF97 needs to be provided. You'll need a VIN verification regardless (form is available at the tag office).

SF-97 - Even if it's not in your name, a bill of sale is sufficient from the original owner (GovPlanet) to the new owner (you). This works ok, but you're at the mercy of the clerk regarding the "Off-Road Use Only" part. Many are ok, others get a hassle.

Off-Road Florida titles - These don't seem to be an issue, but again - you're at the mercy of clerk on how they want to handle it given the fact its an off-road title and offroad vehicles in GA don't require registration.

Montana titles - These seem to be the easiest to work with and the most hassle free.

Prepare yourself so that it appears you know what you're doing. Bring the Title/SF97 along with your completed (signed by LEO) VIN Verification form and proof of insurance. It's a good idea to bring a photo of the vehicle and the vehicle data plate for good measure, even if not needed. The sales tax you paid will do you no good for the Georgia taxes and fees, but with proof that you paid in Georgia - contact Iron Planet because they say they'll refund your taxes - I'm still waiting on my check after 3 weeks.


Iowa: (Thanks to beef1911)
In Iowa you can get a Bonded title. All you need is a bill of sale or paid invoice. You have to apply to the DOT (2 weeks to respond), sign a form for military vehicles saying it meets FMVSS standards, get a bond for 1.5x the value of the humvee ($113 for $7500 bond for 3 years), wait for the DOT for 2 more weeks, then they say you can go get it registered. Same process for if you bought a car and did not receive a title. All this was done over email. Except for the registration.


Texas: (Thanks to EagleArmsHBAR)
In Texas, vehicles like a military surplus HMMWV can be registered under several categories:

1) normal registration;
2) antique (if over a particular age); and
3) former military vehicle

If registered as an antique or for more military vehicle, they don't have to pass inspection, but they are then limited on road use. If the vehicle passes inspection and is insured, it can be registered as a regular vehicle.

If all else fails in Texas and they won't accept an SF97 for some reason, a title can be obtained by going the bonded title route. Of course there are additional details with any of these registration methods, but that's the basics.


New York: (Thanks to kevin101)
My experience with NY was pretty simple.

1. I called Geico and was able to insure it pretty easily. It's insured as a normal vehicle with full coverage and didn't cost too much.
2. Brought my insurance card, SF97 marked "off road use only", my reassignment letter from GovPlanet, and the paid invoice from GovPlanet.
3. I handed everything over to the motor vehicle clerk who looked everything over. She mentioned the off road use only stamp but didn't seem to give it much thought and it didn't come up again.
4. Due to the truck not having a standard VIN she had to enter the vehicle manually. The only problem she had was having the computer accept the 6 digit ID number. She called a supervisor over who also looked over the paperwork quickly and the supervisor was able to override the system to enter the 6 digits.
5. I had to pay NY sales tax for the purchase price of the truck. I paid a 6% tax for Kentucky but NY doesn't have a tax agreement with that state. I'm hoping to get a refund from GovPLanet for the KY tax I paid.


Michigan:
Sorry, but anyone in Michigan seems to be out of luck with any sort of surplus HMMWV. Your state hates you. Not only are they denying on road registration of newly purchased auction vehicles but, if you buy a HMMWV legally titled out of state they will contact the state of origin in an attempt to get the title revoked and still refuse to title it on road. I'm betting you'll still run into some sort of issues even with the clear titled M1123s too due to ignorance but, who knows.

I suggest you all get some legislative action going to fix this!


South Carolina: (Thanks to An51960)
for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters." HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

At the other location, I buried them in paperwork. I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy. The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.



UPDATED 8/7/2017: Insurance

Here's a list of insurance companies that will insure the trucks. Some more easily than others. You should probably call since these aren't standard trucks.

- State Farm
- Geico
- Liberty Mutual
- USAA
- Progressive
- Hagerty

There are other insurance companies that are out there that may insure these trucks so, if you are able to use one not listed, please let me know and I'll add it to the list.



Reputable Parts Suppliers:
So you've got your new HMMWV and are probably now looking for parts to fix one thing or another. Beware there are a lot of new companies popping up to make a quick buck off all of the new HMMWVs hitting the market and may be selling substandard parts.

If you're looking for OEM HMMWV parts there are a couple good sources sources:

- Mac Motors - They carry a couple handy pre-assembled filter kits. Just search for PM-A, PM-B, or PM-C depending on what you need. Otherwise search for your needed part number
- Hummer Parts Guy - Can search by name or part number.
- AM General Direct - Parts direct from AMG. Some good prices, some decent prices on some hard to find items, and some items priced like they're selling them to Uncle Sam.
- Kascar is a popular HMMWV parts dealer but, a number of buyers including myself, believe we have received out of spec reproductions and non-OEM substituted parts. In some instances, Kascar might be the only option available but they I can't really be recommended them as a primary my first go to source.
UPDATE 8/23/2017: Updating this section as Ron from Kascar contacted me personally today after seeing this post, looked me up by my name and order history, and assured me they always supply OEM parts and, to contact them if there are ever any issues with parts quality. In fairness to Kascar, I'd say after several purchases from them since this was made, my experience could best be classified as a "mixed bag" though I hope any and all future purchases are all positive
UPDATE 2/17/2020: I've made several orders with Kascar since the last update with all going well and everything exactly what it was supposed to be.
- Adventure Accessories is another great OEM option but they're geared more towards civilian H1 parts since they're the former Lynch Hummer group.
- BlueHummer Outfitters also sells OEM parts for both HMMWVs and H1s but also has some in house upgrade parts like upgraded spindle nuts, reusable half shaft bolt kits, and flexible caliper side brake lines. BlueHummer has closed up shop. Their items are now carried by Mod Mafia.

Not generally recommended:
Wolfer Parts/ComTac/MotoFino Truck Parts/Augusta Engine Parts has a combination of surplus OEM parts as well as in house manufactured driveline parts like half shafts and suspension parts like ball joints. It appears their "in house" parts are Chinese manufacture but they don't disclose this.

There are some surplus parts dealers out there that are great to deal with like Equipment Parts Sales. If you don't see it on their site, email them direct about what you're looking for. They've told me they don't always have their full inventory up on the website. They'll also work on prices on bundle purchases.

There are a number of surplus parts dealers also selling on eBay. Of them, the most reputable are beltfed34/Austin Aviation and amtak2/Arrowhead Lake XS Surplus. hdps_corp and militarysurplusparts deal in surplus parts but may have limited HMMWV parts. As mentioned, there are a number of others selling surplus parts. Just make sure if you're buying from them and they're claiming new surplus, they have correct military stickers on the packaging with the NSN or, at the least they have good feedback on the surplus they're selling.

Lastly, for surplus and especially hard to find parts, get in touch with Steel Soldiers and G503 member 86humv.

When in doubt though, post here and ask!

Yeah, copy that, with them being a 38” over OEM 37” I’m not that worried, plus it’s entirely possible the OEMs are actually taller than these - just something I’ve picked up on over the years of wheeling, sort of like boats…advertised size can be plus or minus. I looked underneath for rubbing in case the previous owner did any wheeling and I don’t see any rubbing yet. My main concern is the wheel offset of these over OEM when it comes to compression, but yeah, something to watch. Got a source for a good skid plate or did you build your own?

100 pages!

And almost 8 years later.

Update on work on the truck. Work had been delayed a bit because of some insane hours at work needed but, I'm getting back into it now.

Before work got in the way, got the Wicked Wheel is in the the turbo. Painted the exhaust side of the turbo with some Rustoleum high heat ceramic paint. It's still out of the truck.

Turning up the injection pump, I decided to use the "from the top" method because it was supposed to be easier than trying to get to the side access, which I had done on my 6.2. It was not easier. When trying to get the top back on, the governor linkage spring popped the linkage and something ended up out of position to where I can't get it set where everything belongs for some reason. Spent a good while pouring over the Stanadyne manual with no clear understanding on where things go. Decided to get on eBay and pick up a salvage one from Beltfed so I could pick it apart on my bench. Aguas kindly offered me his working but leaking pump. I'm waiting to get a hold of it before going further on that.

So with that part on hold I decided to get started on the Fluidampr and Leroy Diesel pulley install. I had just gotten the factory pulley off when work blew up.

In doing some research on the harmonic balancer replacement, I found that most of the puller/installer kits, except one expensive one, lack the bolt the crankshaft is threaded for to allow you to push the new one on. The exception being this one where the puller bolt is the correct size and will thread into the crank, letting you push it on with it.

It works great pulling the balancer off but lacks the bolts to thread into the balancer. Unfortunately, the factory ones are really too long if you leave the cooling stack in place. The bolts that Leroy Diesel sells with the pulley are a good bit shorter though and work great.

Attached File


As mentioned, the puller bolt works to push the Fluidampr on. Just use the washer from the mounting bolt under the main puller piece. I found that a 3/8 socket fits perfectly into the slots and lets you rotate it to push the Fluidampr on.

Attached File


A length of chain bolted to both factory balancer and Fluidamper, wrapped around the stabilizer bar keeps the engine from rotating during removal and installation.

Attached File


Once you get the Fluidampr most all of the way on, you can put the factory bolt and washer back on to finish it and torque it to 200 ft lbs.

It's extremely close but it turns freely without rubbing.

Attached File


The Fluidampr includes a spacer but unless mine is still on there, you don't need it. It doesn't mention it in the instructions for the H1 application but does on the other 6.5 applications. I verified the flange depth is the same on both factory balancer and Fluidamper.

Moving on to the Leroy Diesel pulley, I found that you need the factory spacer that sits between the harmonic balancer and pulley. Without it, you can immediately see the pulley is out of alignment with the rest. The pulley bolts Leroy Diesel sells with their pulley are too short to work with this spacer as it turns out but, since they work with the puller, I'll toss them in that kit.

Attached File


However, this is where we run into a problem... Using the factory bolts, they are too long and bottom out just a hair before securing the pulley in place. Since I've got a tap and die set with the M10x1.5, I'm just going to trim the factory ones, clean the threads up, and reuse them. Otherwise, some bolts about 5mm shorter would probably work perfectly. The factory ones are 10x1.5-90. I'm going to trim them 5mm first and go from there.

Attached File


The Benglas are playing now so I had to wrap and on call week at work is next week so, not sure how much progress I'll make.

The local Veteran's Day parade wanted the HMMWV and told me I would have two WWII vets in the back seats.  Cool, I'll be there.

So I get to the staging area this morning and discovered my County Sheriffs have an MRAP?  Sleepy little county with a SWAT team, an armored HMMWV (they didn't bring it because it's broke) and this giant MRAP?  

Attached File


So the parade people inform me they want me to carry three WWII vets and one of the wives, and that they're the parade Grand Marshals.  

OK, but I only have three seats, so they put one of the vets in the vehicle behind me.  I was sorta the lead vehicle.  The County firetruck was lead, then the Marine Color Guard, then me.

Attached File


Attached File

Great showing, looks like a fun parade. The first time I rode an MRAP after years of HMMWV it was like a spaceship. Pneumatic doors, reasonably comfy seats, air conditioning. They like to tip right over into the ditch though.

Badass!

I have pictures of my 6x6 MRAP that collapsed a dirt road and fell into a canal somewhere. I'll try to find em.

Video someone posted:

Looks like a great time!

Who was the second HMMWV with all the flashing lights?

Reminds me, I've got a Code 3 Mastercom siren from an old work van (was used for lighting control) I need to get put in my truck for parade use. Plus the electronic air horn is a lot better than the "tactical" horn.

It was a late teen early 20s kid driving his dad's made-over military HMMWV.  I had to look twice believing it was an H1.  

Running a siren is much easier than running air for an air horn.

I actually did too.

The slantback with the windows was what did it. That's how the H1 factory (and aftermarket before the factory did it) one looked.

OK, had to make it on page 100!

Haven't done a whole lot of work on the truck.  But I did help out on a 240 mile endurance run with providing comms for an aid station.  It's always a kick in the seat to take it out and do things with the truck even if it is only running through the desert.

I finally took a page from some of you guys (Ryan et.al.) and swapped out my mil tires and wheels for civilian.  I had a bad shaking going on from about 40 mph thru 50 that I just couldn't get rid of.  balancing (multiple methods), alignments and more just couldn't make it go away.  The Dealer I got the tires and wheels from said he was surprised it wasn't worse than it was.  He told me the military MT's I had were just not designed to go fast (40+).  The drive to the race was going to be 10 hours one way and I just knew I wasn't going to be able to mentally handle the shaking for that long.  So new shoes and they ride great.  I really wanted to keep things as original as I could but, ride quality is more important for my mental health, especially since it isn't actually a show truck.

I have a fair leak on the seal of my harmonic balancer shaft too.  When I saw this post it gave me one of those "I need to do that too" moments and then I realized how cold it is outside now and it quickly passed..

So congrats on the 100 Ryan.

Attached File


Attached File

Awesome and thanks! What tires you end up going with? Clearly Black Rhino wheels.

Jake had sent me this several days ago. Maybe this is is an option for folks that need to keep the military wheels/tires to look into.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Hummer, H1, HMMWV, Exotic and rare vehicles (\u0040modmafiaautomotive)

I'm positive the issue with my military tires is they were flat spotted on account of the lack of anti-lock brakes on these trucks. I had come across this method when I was exploring options and never did find anyone that does it locally. If I had, it would be interesting to see what change if any it would have made.

ETA: They appear to be using a TSI 405W

The tires are DELIUM Terra Raiders.  I had never heard of or seen ones like them and asked about tires like what you had and others that I researched, but he had these in stock and they had all the features I was looking for.  But one little detail that caught my attention and I really liked was they have a tiny tread pattern in the spaces between the lugs of the overall tread pattern.  I though that was cool and just went with them.  I figured it's a local dealer and if I have issues I can talk directly with them.  The price was good too.  I paid $2900 for everything and I was willing to go to $4,000 to get it done.

The tire trimming looks interesting, but I think if I had that done on my current set, there wouldn't be much left of the tread!!

I had the stainless steel standoffs for installing the GMV Skid Plates reverse engineered:
Attached File


The GMV Skid Plates mount by the 4 each 3/8-16 x 1.5" Gr8 bolts through the footwell 10mm armor plate, the 4 each 1/4-20x1" bolts for the floor insulation retainer strip, and 3 each 3/8-16x 0.75" Grade 8 bolts through the skids up into the rear floor reinforcement hat channel brackets and holes in the rear footwells:
Attached File

@stoner63a are the standoff shipping out this week?  Also, do you have the installation instructions/manual for the GMV Inverter that goes on the side of the radio tray, I am trying to figure out how to wire mine up?

The machinist did a run of 46 from a 1.5" hex 316SS drop he had.

There are 3 more sets asking to be ordered, so he is checking into buying more bar stock.
 They were $25.65 each ($25 each plus fraction of the shipping for 46 pieces from the Machinist to me) plus shipping to each individual, I went with USPS Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Boxes.  
 

To the very best of my knowledge, the InfiniD Inverter/Power Distribution Box on the driver's side radio enclosure, you run the 12V+, 24V+ and Ground (-) through the main battery box, under the plastic battery tray, out the hole into the side compartment, fastened to a Square D Class 9080 Type LBA363206 Power Distribution Terminal Block bolted to the battery compartment back wall, which has cables run to the rear battery, the main ground and the main positive terminal block on the battery compartment wall.
Attached File

If you have a Dimensions 24VDC (or 12VDC) to 120VAC Inverter mounted to your curb side rear passenger ceiling, it also runs cables to the Square D LBA363206 3x Terminal Block with a 250amp AML fuse on a Buss 3476 Fuse Block bolted to the side battery compartment bottom.
Attached File

This is an awesome and expensive thread. It caused me to end up with two hmmwv. One is finished and the other I am just starting to work on.
It is an 1114 but has a few issues I thought folks here may be able to assist in the troubleshooting.
Issue one: two injectors are pissing fuel. Here is a screen capture.   Attached File

Is this a loose injector or should I replace it? Comments on remove-replace injectors on a 6.5 turbo.

It's kind of hard to tell from that still. Are you able to upload the clip to YouTube? It looks like a steady stream of fuel though.

Unless it's coming from the supply line connection or the return line connection, it's probably going to need replaced. I had one that was leaking on the body where the halves go together. Just swapped it.

If you decide to replace them all, the marine 6.5 injectors are a popular replacement.

I forget what size socket works on them but, there is a specific injector socket that's preferable to use so you don't possibly damage the return line nipples with a standard one. If you don't want to buy one (they're $40-$60) I've got a couple and wouldn't mind lending one if you wanted to pay shipping both ways.

Thanks Ryan, yes, it is a steady stream. accuratediesel has injectors. they also have the socket, and they have a washer, return line kit. Should I get new return lines and washers as well?

Yeah I knew I forgot to mention something.

If you're doing injectors, may as well do new return lines.

30 day bump. Anybody doing anything new this year with their HMMWV?

I changed the oil (A service) in my H1 , does that count?

Hopefully getting mine running. I have to install the radiator, oil cooler and change all the fluids in mine. 2023 was a bit more hectic than we planned when I bought mine.

I really like those wheels - they look very nice!!

I finally got my Texas License Plates and Registration Sticker yesterday so I'm all street-legal now!

Anyone here use a back up camera? Thinking of adding that next.

Before the negative degree temperatures started, I bought a backup camera/dashcam setup but haven't installed it yet.  I have the same model on a different vehicle and it works very well.  Basically the "mirror" becomes a screen that shows what the cameras show while recording the drive as well, from both the front and rear.  

I hooked up a cheap amazon one to the license plate. Makes backing up way easier with the slantback.

Hopefully I'll have the power steering system bled sometime this week.  I have been trying to fix that system since I bought the truck... I don't know... 8 years ago?  It had an intermittent whine that I couldn't get rid of.  Tried bleeding all kinds of ways.

Finally replaced the power steering pump when I could no longer turn the wheel.  But even the new one sucks.  I'm about to make a "window" that I can plumb into some of the hoses to get an idea of where bubbles might be coming from.

Also, the OP Ryan_Ruck is now banned, so the help he had in this thread is no longer here.

100% can verify that arfcom is moderated by, and largely for, weasels.

Banned?!  Why?

He poked the resident EverTrumpers one too many times hahaha.

Changed out the injector and return lines using the TM manual.  Fired it up and no leaks. Thanks all for the tips.

That is crap. We have lost, and are loosing valuable folks who provide the knowledge we folks come to this site for.
This whole site is slowly loosing interesting communicators and being replaced by pithy one liners.

And commonly used "this" memes.

I'm just putting this sentence here so the response is longer than one line.

Correct and there is not really another platform that offers the ability to go back and look in the thread easily. Unfortunately, the mods are ruining this place vs what it use to be where you could voice your opinions and your point of view and the other person not get upset with hurt feelings as it was just in general discussion. Of course we may all get a warning for this being in a tech forum.

But on topic how hard was it changing the injectors and return lines? Did you do the pump too?

I bought the injector socket which made it easy. The challenge was getting to the injector and getting a torque wrench in there. But my kid has smaller hands so not bad.
The pump is working so left it alone.
My steering is difficult and hard to turn when the vehicle is not moving.  Is this a common thing on 11series vehicles?

Depends on your definition of hard to turn.

My M1165 is one-handed steering without much exertion.  I wouldn't call it hard, but it's a little harder than my M1009.

I realize it's not an 11 series the same way as an 1165 or 1152, but my M1123  is a one finger steering vehicle, very overboosted steering rack. So I would say it's worth looking into.

Ok, thanks.
That is now my next project after it warms up.

That is a real shame.  I've owned several Mil Vehicles and have considered getting back in on a Humvee.  Ryan_Ruck was a great source of knowledge in this thread.

Bigger_Hammer

Semi relevant but thought some of you might find this interesting.

Very cool - I've seen that, I do like it - please let me know how you like it once you get it installed. The one thing about that setup - I currently don't have a traditional rearview mirror mounted up (yet) and I don't know if I will...have been leaning towards a monitor / screen setup that I may mount below the windshield, left side of the dog box...trying to figure out what would work best for my situation.

I'm thinking of a setup like that...or one that one of the HMMWV supply houses has....this one:
https://www.federalmilitaryparts.com/products/humvee-backup-camera-24v-m998-hmmwv?

@stoner63a I finally received my 3 bay ammo can holder and turret mount. Was wondering if you had a link to the brush, retainer, and the two correct pins to hold the 3 bay to the turret tray?

I'm still having a hell of a time bleeding my power steering system on the M1123.  I replaced the pump a while ago and air was still somehow getting in the lines.

I have now replaced every hose and hose clamp and gone over little things that might introduce air, like the sight glass on the reservoir or the bleeder screw by the cadillac valve.  The line running from the cadillac valve to the power steering cooler radiator was also higher than the elevation of the fluid level in the reservoir, so I zip tied it so it was lower hoping that air would always try to make its way to the highest point.

Just got finished buttoning everything up together and hopefully it'll finally be better.

If it's not, I'm starting to think I'll have to break apart the steering gear and reseal possibly just the upper part.  Or maybe the radiator is cracked.  Last time I bled it I finally heard just the sound of the engine instead of power steering whine.  But then the next morning air had gotten into the system again.

The brush is made from COTS 1 1/16" x 5/16" clear anodized aluminum extrusion with 2" black brush exposed.    Order a 4 foot section similar to this Amazon link:
Heavy Duty Clear Anodized Brush Door Sweep for Gaps Up to 1.5inches

Note: this brush stock above may have holes pre drilled that may not line up with the factory holes on the turret mount. If you google 2" door sweep brush you can find direct sites that sell footage not pre-drilled.

Measure the back width, add 2x the thickness of the flat aluminum flange, mark the U channel the brush inserts into, slit it with a hacksaw then bend 90 degrees.   Clamp in place, mark your original bolt holes from the inside.    I think its 1/4"-20x 5/8" or 3/4" yellow zinc or black oxided hex bolt that mounts the brush on the MSG QR base bracket.

He really is a great source of information on HMMWV's. I saw this coming and even pm'd him some months back that he was flying to close to the sun in GD. Regardless of where you fall on a given issue, the way the moderation has been going the last few years, it was only a matter of time. Hopefully, he's able to get back somehow.

Tis a shame.  If not for ryan id have never stuffed the ECV drivetrain into my 998a1.  Or known how to get real carc paint.  Or who knows how many other little things.  

People like him can be found at a certain telegram group….


….that isnt moderated by today’s arfcom jackboots.  

https://t.me/+KhyaExfStcc2NzQx

See if that works.  

Anyone have any leads on armored windshields? That's one project I would like to complete.

Well, finally broke the rust on the oil cooler port yesterday.

Now I'll be able to get the radiator and new oil cooler installed as soon as I get a break with work.