Just a warning, I'm going to be as detailed as I can so this will be a long read!


After I posted I had just purchased a surplus HMMWV in this thread, at the request of Schott8283 I'm starting this thread to lay out what I've gone through in the purchase process for people who may be interested in purchasing one too, with the hope that people who know more than I do chime in and fill in any blanks I'm sure to leave.

Here's my truck I just bought:




















She's a 1994 M998A1 with a 6.2L diesel with 38,669 on the odometer. She runs and is intact from what I can see in the pictures (minus a broken mirror). There were 50 bids on my truck with me winning it at $9,500, up from a $5,000 opening bid.


First where do you find HMMWVs for sale? Just head on over to GovPlanet, the company awarded the contract by the US Government to sell off these trucks, to find the current inventory. From what I have heard, this was a first batch of roughly 4,000 trucks released by the government to see how sales would go. Sales started about a year ago and they are more than half way to 4,000 (2,600ish as of my posting this).

From there you will be able to narrow the inventory down by state and auction end time. Auctions are held weekly on Wednesday. Inventory listed is typically out two weeks.

Definitely read through the FAQ thoroughly. It will answer almost any question you've got. That said I did run into a mistake in it that has yet to be corrected by GovPlanet that I will detail below.


Now you'll have to decide if you want to buy something close enough to pick up yourself or if you want to have it shipped to you.

Shipping will, of course, cost more the further the truck is from you. That said, picking it up yourself can be cheaper if you live close to where it is located or don't mind a little travel. My truck I just purcased is about 4.5 hours from me so I'm going to be making a day of picking it up with my brother and a friend.

If shipping it, you will have the option to get an estimate from Veritread on shipping it from where it is located to you. This can found on every truck's listing on the right hand side.

If you are picking it up yourself, you can either trailer it or flat tow it.

Trailering is preferable from what I've read from people that have done both. Flat towing can be a bit of a task as the HMMWVs can manhandle a truck that is not up to the task. To flat tow it safely you'll need the military tow bar setup designed for the truck. The complete tow bar package will likely cost you $400-$600 if you can't find one to borrow. You'll also have to disconnect the half shafts (shafts that connect from the differentials to the geared hubs that drive the wheels, also known as portal axles) to safely tow it without damaging the transmission or transfer case. Just putting it in neutral will not suffice as either the transmission or transfer case will not properly lubricate itself. I can't recall which off the top of my head without looking it up but, trust me.

If you want to trailer it but don't have a trailer you can rent a U-Haul flat bed transporter trailer. It must be one of the newer models (galvanized as opposed to orange painted). The newer ones are wider and have a higher weight rating than the older ones. Also, if you truthfully tell U-Haul what you are planning on putting on it, they will deny you the rental because they believe it is too big/heavy. You'll have to... *ahem* stretch the truth as to what you're putting on it. From what other people have said, the HMMWV will fit (albiet snugly) and the trailer can handle the weight.

If your truck is running, when picking it up, bring fresh batteries and an air pump so you won't have problems loading it.

Now for the error in the GovPlanet FAQ. You may see in the FAQ that if you have your truck shipped to you, you will not be liable for the sales tax for the state it is in if shipping it out of that state. This is incorrect straight from a GovPlanet rep I spoke with on the phone after I made my purchaes. They are collecting sales tax regardless of whether you have it picked up by a shipper or pick it up yourself. I was originally going to pick it up myself but found through the Veritread estimate on the site that it would have been cheaper to have it shipped if the sales tax wasn't collected. After the purchase I called GovPlanet to find out how to schedule the pickup since it can't be picked up until your EUC clears (I'll go into this later). That's when I found out about the tax situation. So, if you are having the truck shipped, factor the shipment cost and sales tax into your final price. That said, if you are tax exempt for any other reason you can get your sales tax you have to pay refunded. No idea how that works but there is a section in the FAQ about it and process for it.


Here we get to selecting the truck you want.

After you've found the truck you want, I recommend picking another one or two trucks you can fall back on should you be outbid. Then again, if you have enough patience, you can always just wait until the next auction. I didn't end up with my first choice truck! I had originally bid on a 1992 M998 that ended up selling for $12,750, above my $12,250 max bid (it had 10,000 fewer miles, looked cleaner, and had a 6.5L diesel and full cargo cover).

When selecting a truck, read the description and look over the pictures very thoroughly. Unless you happen to live close enough to schedule an inspection, that is all you'll have to go off of for vehicle condition. If you do live close enough, you can contact GovPlanet who will put you in touch with the local rep to let you on site to look the truck over. I did not go inspect my truck prior to purchase though I will try to sometime between now and when I receive it.

You will find the trucks listed in various running conditions such as "running", "needed jump started", "needed ether", "not running", or listed otherwise.

Advice I had seen given was that GovPlanet will typically do what they can within reason, short of replacing parts or making repairs, to get a vehicle running so that it will sell for a higher amount.  If it isn't running it could be missing vital parts or it could have a cracked piston/head/block or some other catastrophic damage. Needing a jumpstart is likely not a big deal, possibly a dead battery or at worse a faulty charging system. If it needs a shot of ether, it could be a fuel delivery issue or possibly bad fuel. These trucks have been sitting for a while so things like that and flat tires are not uncommon. Again, if loading it yourself, bring fresh batteries and an air pump for this very reason! But, if it isn't running at all, there's quite possibly a very good reason for that and you should bid accordingly while possibly going so far as planning on replacing the drivetrain. Since even if you can inspect it, you can't tear it down, any non-running truck is going to be a gamble.

Besides being in various running conditions, you will also find trucks in various states of repair. Some will be nearly 100% complete while I've also seen stripped bodies on frames with partial engines being sold. A good bit of advice I once saw posted is that if it is missing parts, there could be a very good reason the unit it was with decided to start cannibalizing it. Maybe the transmission is slipping or maybe it doesn't stay running. Regardless it was seen as a more expendable vehicle for a reason. I'm sure a lot of readers, military or otherwise dealing with keeping fleets running, have experienced this first hand. Of course, you will pay more for a more complete and well running truck. Then again if you don't mind a challenge you can potentially save a lot of money. Just know that missing or broken parts that need replaced can add up and potentially be hard to find! My truck had a broken passenger mirror. I figured it wouldn't be a big deal finding some new glass for it since I've done that before on other vehicles. After several hours of searching I turned up nothing and was forced to buy an entire mirror assembly. Individual mirrors were around $90-$100 with eBay being the best source. Given that the individual mirrors were priced what they were and the driver side mirror's paint was pretty faded, I decided to purchase a pair which ended up putting the price of both mirrors at about $80 each since it was a package deal. I also have an ignition instruction plate that is unreadable. Finding a replacement was a chore but was located.

From people with experience, trucks with body damage or paint damage will require extra care in repairing them so bid on those accordingly as well. The bodies are aluminum so typical body repair shops may or may not be able to make repairs. The paint is CARC (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating) and is typically nasty stuff when applied or sanded and requires certain precautions some shops might not be able to handle.

Another thing to keep in mind is that despite what the odometer reading is listed as, it may not accurately reflect the mileage on the truck! Speedometers are switched out without much regard to the mileage except it being recorded in the maintenance logs (which you will not have access to). Compare the trucks typical wear spots with the mileage to see if it matches up. Also, sometimes trucks are put through a depot rebuild and this may be reflected in the odometer reading, especially if it is very low. These trucks will have placards/stickers to reflect the depot maintenance but I have seen that GovPlanet tries to avoid advertising these placards/stickers because they cannot verify if the trucks have actually been through the depot repairs. The part with the placard/sticker may have simply been cannibalized off of another truck that had and if they sell it advertised as having been done, only for the buyer to find out it hasn't, they're libel.


Now we come to the actual purchase.

As I mentioned, auctions are held weekly on Wednesdays.

Each truck is listed at a starting price based on condition. Running trucks are now being started at $5000 (down from $7500) and non-running and salvage trucks are being started at less than that.

The acutual auction time for each truck only lasts for 4 minutes and below is why.

The bidding process is a little bit different than most places you may have participated in. On GovPlanet you can bid at any time before or during the auction using what they call PriorityBid. Here is the FAQ section on what the PriorityBid is:

PriorityBid is our system for placing bids during the preview period of an auction. A significant amount of all bidding in our auctions occurs with PriorityBids; more than 70% of items typically have bids on them before auction day. Because they are placed during preview, PriorityBids have a delayed effect on the price of an item: the price does not change until the auction opens. There are several advantages of using PriorityBids:

   You do not have to be at your computer on auction day. When you place a PriorityBid, you specify the maximum you are willing to pay for an item. You will be told immediately if yours is the highest bid placed so far, but you will not know how much of your bid amount remains to protect you from later bidders. Your bid amount is confidential and our auction software will keep you in the lead against competitive bids through the preview and on auction day or until your maximum amount is exceeded. If you get outbid by another PriorityBid, an automatic email will immediately be sent to you.

   You can win the item for less than your maximum amount. In our style of auctions, the price the winner pays is determined by the price the runner-up was willing to pay. The final price is never more than one bid increment greater than the next-highest bid. So, if you have little competition, you can win an item for less than your maximum amount. We recommend you determine your "no regrets" price—the price at which, if someone else were to win, you would not regret the outcome—and then bid one increment below that.

   Bidding early helps ensure that you are the winner. When competing PriorityBids are placed for the same amount, the earliest bid takes precedence (it has Priority at that price), so submitting your bid early gives you an advantage. You can place a PriorityBid online any time day or night, or by fax during our Customer Care hours.

   Freedom to keep an eye out for other bargains. PriorityBids give you the freedom to browse and track other items on auction day without worrying about your "must-have" items. Our system acts as your assistant, constantly monitoring your PriorityBids and keeping you in the lead until the price goes beyond your designated maximum bid amount.

As auction day approaches, you can check the status of your PriorityBids in the Buying List of My Account. Make sure your email address and notification settings are correct in My Account Profile so that you can receive outbid notification emails. Before even being outbid, you can increase the maximum on any of your PriorityBids by placing a new PriorityBid on the same item for your new maximum amount (don't worry, you can not outbid yourself). Like all bids, PriorityBids are binding and can not be retracted nor reduced.


That pretty much lays it out. Bid what you're willing to go to before the auction starts. You won't know what the actual price is but if you get outbid at any point they will notify you via email and you can up your max bid if you want. If you bid a certain amount first, you get priority if someone else bids the same amount after you.

Also, bids are in $250 increments.

When deciding how much to bid, as I mentioned above, you will have to add in sales tax and transportation costs. That's not all though! You'll also have to factor in title costs as well as a 10% buyer fee! The title option with a Florida state off road title, a SF97 (essentially a federal government title), and a bill of sale will run you $150. Just the bill of sale and SF97 is cheaper but, you'll have to know if your state has any problems with dealing with SF97s. The Florida state title option was developed to help buyers deal with states that have problems with SF97s. Just the bill of sale is cheaper still but that may not be enough for some states. Know what is good for your state or err on the side of caution and get the full package!

I bought my truck for $9500. Between the 6% Kentucky state sales tax, the full titling option, and the 10% buyers fee I ended up with about an extra $1750 added to my purchase price. Then I've got to add in trailer rental and fuel costs to go pick it up.


And here we get to the post auction process.

So you've won your auction! Congratulations!

There are now some steps to take to finalize your purchase.

You will start by going through the checkout process. Here you will decide if you're shipping your truck or transporting it your self, selecting your titling options, and then finalizing the invoice total based on the options. After the invoice is finalized you will pay GovPlanet via wire transfer. Payment must be made within 3 business days or you may incur late fees usually $25-$50 per day depending on final sale price. If you go past a certain time, your item may be considered abandoned and you get charged an even bigger fee. There's also other stuff listed here.

But paying for it isn't the only thing you have to do!

On your account page you will be sent links (on the right hand side of the main account screen) to fill out your Hold Harmless Agreement which gets sent to one email address. You can print it out, physically sign it, and then physically mail it in. You can physically sign it, scan it, and then email it in. Or you can digitally sign it and email it in.

Most importantly, since the HMMWV is a defense article, you will have to fill out an EUC - End Use Certificate. This basically lets Uncle Sam know the final disposition of the item you're buying - if you're going to keep it, sell it, exporting it or not and if you are you have clearance to. This may seem to be a daunting part but GovPlanet has conveniently set up a form wizard that will assist you in filling it out correctly with descriptions of each field needing filled out. You will also need to send in a copy of your driver's license (preferably) or other government issued ID. Make sure your scan/photo of your license is crystal clear or your EUC may get kicked back after a very lengthy initial time period delaying you even further! Just like with the Hold Harmless Agreement you can send it in using one of the previously mentioned methods. It will be emailed to a different email address than the Hold Harmless Agreement though.

Directions are included with both forms.

First time EUC filers like I am can expect a 8-12 week wait. If you've previously filed an EUC with GovPlanet (GovLiquidation not included!) within, I believe the last year, your wait will be considerably shorter. This part is a bit like the whole NFA application and waiting game!


Here I'm getting to the pickup process and since I haven't yet picked up my truck, can only relay what information I've gleaned.

After your payment is received and your EUC is cleared you have 8 business days to remove your truck or you'll incur storage fees. Now, not to worry, if there are incidental delays GovPlanet will work with you so long as you are making a good faith effort to pick it up. This is word straight from a GovPlanet manager on Steel Soldiers. They simply put that there to keep people from abusing the time given to pick up the truck.

To pick up the truck you'll have to schedule a pick up time. If you are picking it up, it should be as simple as it sounds. If you're having a shipper pick it up, the pick up time will have to be coordinated between GovPlanet, your shipper, and you. You don't need to be on site for the shipper to pick it up.

Since I'm fuzzy on this part if you have any questions it would be best to call GovPlanet for clarification at 1-844-225-8799, Monday-Friday 6am-5pm Pacific.


Once you've got your truck at your site, it is not recommended you hop in and start cruising around! Your truck may have been sitting for months or a year or more!

A full fluid change is recommended. Since these are diesels, Shell Rotella T is a good motor oil. Replace other fluids as recommended by AM General. Specifications can be found in military TMs which are available at Steel Soldiers and other sites. Add fresh fuel, draining as needed to get a good mix to burn off the old stuff.

Check all of your important fasteners like lugnuts to make sure they are secure. Some very important fasteners unique to the HMMWV design are the bolts that connect the differential to the half shaft and the half shaft to the geared hubs. These can work their way out and should have some blue Loctite applied to prevent that. If they come loose they can damage brakes and other equipment!

Check for any leaks GovPlanet may have missed.

If you run into anything that was not on your inspection report, report it right away to GovPlanet to take advantage of their Iron Clad Guarantee which basically states they will disclose any problems as best they can. If they examine your claim and find it valid, they will refund a portion of your purchase price. If it's something internal and you knowingly bought a non-running truck don't count on any sort of refund. If you bought what appears to be a complete truck and it's missing say a mirror or seat, or it has some other problem that wasn't listed, you will likely see some money coming back to you. When in doubt file a claim. Worst case they deny it.


Now at this point we get into a topic that Steel Soldiers will not permit on their site: Titling, plating, and insuring for road use.

If you do bring it up, the topic will be deleted and you may be banned. For some reason they think that violating the purchase agreement and putting these trucks on the road will cause Uncle Sam and GovPlanet to stop selling them.

When you sign the Hold Harmless Agreement with GovPlanet, part of it states that you acknowledge the HMMWV is not roadworthy. The Florida title and SF97 are also stamped "Off Road Use Only":




That said, in many states, there are methods of titling off road vehicles for on road use. Check local laws! We've tried to compile instructions for various states below.

(Old Ohio registration information contained within)
Click To View Spoiler

For insurance, a number of companies out there will insure military vehicles. You'll have to call around. Although Steel Soldiers doesn't allow discussion about insuring the HMMWVs for road use, they do have a list of companies that have been known to insure military vehicles.


If you want technical information on the HMMWV there are two great resources

Steel Soldiers
G503.com

Despite my thinking that banning certain discussions about on road use of HMMWVs on Steel Soldiers is stupid, both have excellent information on HMMWVs and other military vehicles. Steel Soldiers also has one thing G503 doesn't which is a section dealing with the intricacies of purchasing from GovLiquidation and GovPlanet. A GovPlanet manager with the username of "Jwade" also participates in the HMMWV purchasing threads there answering questions and helping clear roadblocks you may run into. This thread is a good place to find him. (Update: "Jwade" is no longer with GP, Phil Hasty has filled his role.)


While waiting for my truck I've already started picking up accessories for it. If anyone wants me to I can go into what I've been picking up and why but customizing your truck will come down to what you like!


So, this is where everything currently stands with me. If anyone who has gone further in the process or has more detailed knowledge spots missing/incorrect information could contribute, it would be most appreciated!

HMMWV How-To Tech Links:

• Cutting Down 2 Man Troop Seats To Fit A 4 Man Truck


• Making Soft Half Doors

HMMWV Reference Material:

• HMMWV Operator and Technical Manuals

UPDATED 7/19/2017: State Registration Instructions

Ohio:
As of April 21, 2017 The State Of Ohio Department Of Public Safety, Bureau Of Motor Vehicles, Title Division sent the following Title Broadcast to all state title offices:



This is being used as justification by the BMV to (incorrectly) deny accepting the 3803 forms mentioned previously (to the point of claiming the form no longer exists). There have been conflicting reports of whether the BMV is continuing to accept registration for HMMWVs with valid, on road out of state titles. So far there has been no rescinding of on road titles for currently titled trucks.

THE BELOW IN THE SPOILER BOX FOR THE STATE OF OHIO SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ON THE PREVIOUS PROCESS!


Click To View Spoiler


Georgia: (Thanks to Lawman734)
The Georgia procedures manual states that to register a former military vehicle, it has to have been titled elsewhere (like a FL or MT title) or an SF97 needs to be provided. You'll need a VIN verification regardless (form is available at the tag office).

SF-97 - Even if it's not in your name, a bill of sale is sufficient from the original owner (GovPlanet) to the new owner (you). This works ok, but you're at the mercy of the clerk regarding the "Off-Road Use Only" part. Many are ok, others get a hassle.

Off-Road Florida titles - These don't seem to be an issue, but again - you're at the mercy of clerk on how they want to handle it given the fact its an off-road title and offroad vehicles in GA don't require registration.

Montana titles - These seem to be the easiest to work with and the most hassle free.

Prepare yourself so that it appears you know what you're doing. Bring the Title/SF97 along with your completed (signed by LEO) VIN Verification form and proof of insurance. It's a good idea to bring a photo of the vehicle and the vehicle data plate for good measure, even if not needed. The sales tax you paid will do you no good for the Georgia taxes and fees, but with proof that you paid in Georgia - contact Iron Planet because they say they'll refund your taxes - I'm still waiting on my check after 3 weeks.


Iowa: (Thanks to beef1911)
In Iowa you can get a Bonded title. All you need is a bill of sale or paid invoice. You have to apply to the DOT (2 weeks to respond), sign a form for military vehicles saying it meets FMVSS standards, get a bond for 1.5x the value of the humvee ($113 for $7500 bond for 3 years), wait for the DOT for 2 more weeks, then they say you can go get it registered. Same process for if you bought a car and did not receive a title. All this was done over email. Except for the registration.


Texas: (Thanks to EagleArmsHBAR)
In Texas, vehicles like a military surplus HMMWV can be registered under several categories:

1) normal registration;
2) antique (if over a particular age); and
3) former military vehicle

If registered as an antique or for more military vehicle, they don't have to pass inspection, but they are then limited on road use. If the vehicle passes inspection and is insured, it can be registered as a regular vehicle.

If all else fails in Texas and they won't accept an SF97 for some reason, a title can be obtained by going the bonded title route. Of course there are additional details with any of these registration methods, but that's the basics.


New York: (Thanks to kevin101)
My experience with NY was pretty simple.

1. I called Geico and was able to insure it pretty easily. It's insured as a normal vehicle with full coverage and didn't cost too much.
2. Brought my insurance card, SF97 marked "off road use only", my reassignment letter from GovPlanet, and the paid invoice from GovPlanet.
3. I handed everything over to the motor vehicle clerk who looked everything over. She mentioned the off road use only stamp but didn't seem to give it much thought and it didn't come up again.
4. Due to the truck not having a standard VIN she had to enter the vehicle manually. The only problem she had was having the computer accept the 6 digit ID number. She called a supervisor over who also looked over the paperwork quickly and the supervisor was able to override the system to enter the 6 digits.
5. I had to pay NY sales tax for the purchase price of the truck. I paid a 6% tax for Kentucky but NY doesn't have a tax agreement with that state. I'm hoping to get a refund from GovPLanet for the KY tax I paid.


Michigan:
Sorry, but anyone in Michigan seems to be out of luck with any sort of surplus HMMWV. Your state hates you. Not only are they denying on road registration of newly purchased auction vehicles but, if you buy a HMMWV legally titled out of state they will contact the state of origin in an attempt to get the title revoked and still refuse to title it on road. I'm betting you'll still run into some sort of issues even with the clear titled M1123s too due to ignorance but, who knows.

I suggest you all get some legislative action going to fix this!


South Carolina: (Thanks to An51960)
for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters." HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

At the other location, I buried them in paperwork. I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy. The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.



UPDATED 8/7/2017: Insurance

Here's a list of insurance companies that will insure the trucks. Some more easily than others. You should probably call since these aren't standard trucks.

- State Farm
- Geico
- Liberty Mutual
- USAA
- Progressive
- Hagerty

There are other insurance companies that are out there that may insure these trucks so, if you are able to use one not listed, please let me know and I'll add it to the list.



Reputable Parts Suppliers:
So you've got your new HMMWV and are probably now looking for parts to fix one thing or another. Beware there are a lot of new companies popping up to make a quick buck off all of the new HMMWVs hitting the market and may be selling substandard parts.

If you're looking for OEM HMMWV parts there are a couple good sources sources:

- Mac Motors - They carry a couple handy pre-assembled filter kits. Just search for PM-A, PM-B, or PM-C depending on what you need. Otherwise search for your needed part number
- Hummer Parts Guy - Can search by name or part number.
- AM General Direct - Parts direct from AMG. Some good prices, some decent prices on some hard to find items, and some items priced like they're selling them to Uncle Sam.
- Kascar is a popular HMMWV parts dealer but, a number of buyers including myself, believe we have received out of spec reproductions and non-OEM substituted parts. In some instances, Kascar might be the only option available but they I can't really be recommended them as a primary my first go to source.
UPDATE 8/23/2017: Updating this section as Ron from Kascar contacted me personally today after seeing this post, looked me up by my name and order history, and assured me they always supply OEM parts and, to contact them if there are ever any issues with parts quality. In fairness to Kascar, I'd say after several purchases from them since this was made, my experience could best be classified as a "mixed bag" though I hope any and all future purchases are all positive
UPDATE 2/17/2020: I've made several orders with Kascar since the last update with all going well and everything exactly what it was supposed to be.
- Adventure Accessories is another great OEM option but they're geared more towards civilian H1 parts since they're the former Lynch Hummer group.
- BlueHummer Outfitters also sells OEM parts for both HMMWVs and H1s but also has some in house upgrade parts like upgraded spindle nuts, reusable half shaft bolt kits, and flexible caliper side brake lines. BlueHummer has closed up shop. Their items are now carried by Mod Mafia.

Not generally recommended:
Wolfer Parts/ComTac/MotoFino Truck Parts/Augusta Engine Parts has a combination of surplus OEM parts as well as in house manufactured driveline parts like half shafts and suspension parts like ball joints. It appears their "in house" parts are Chinese manufacture but they don't disclose this.

There are some surplus parts dealers out there that are great to deal with like Equipment Parts Sales. If you don't see it on their site, email them direct about what you're looking for. They've told me they don't always have their full inventory up on the website. They'll also work on prices on bundle purchases.

There are a number of surplus parts dealers also selling on eBay. Of them, the most reputable are beltfed34/Austin Aviation and amtak2/Arrowhead Lake XS Surplus. hdps_corp and militarysurplusparts deal in surplus parts but may have limited HMMWV parts. As mentioned, there are a number of others selling surplus parts. Just make sure if you're buying from them and they're claiming new surplus, they have correct military stickers on the packaging with the NSN or, at the least they have good feedback on the surplus they're selling.

Lastly, for surplus and especially hard to find parts, get in touch with Steel Soldiers and G503 member 86humv.

When in doubt though, post here and ask!

If it's under $5,000 they will accept a credit card but over that wire transfer.

I had never done one before but my bank had no problem doing it and didn't even charge me for it.

Would be interesting in tracking your progress.  I'd like to do something similar at some point.  Either I do it in the next few years before my kids start really costing me a lot of money, or I never do it at all.

Thanks for the info

I'll take a look and discuss this a little more with my kid. A 2 door would suit us fine if the price was right.

Just curious, anyone know what the 100% factory tread depth is on the 37x12.5x16.5 Goodyear Wrangler MTs (not MT/Rs!)? I did some looking and can't find it.

I'm going to get an inspection time scheduled for my truck soon and want to see how much life my tires have left. A couple look a little worn from the pictures but I want to know for sure how worn they are.

It's going to factor in on if I'll be able to trade my 12 bolt wheels and tires with some cash to a local surplus guy for some 24 bolt wheels and new tires or if I'll just get new TreadWright Guard Dogs (surplus guy doesn't want tires that are totally shot). I'm going to be good with either way, just being able to upgrade to the 24 bolts would be a nice plus with getting new tires.

This thread has my full attention, thanks for the write up and details.  I've got a handful of questions if anyone knows any of the more technical specs on these (Motor T, get in hurr).

I'm a Jeep guy, on my third Jeep, and have wanted to do a diesel conversion for a few years now but these HMMWV's being for sale (didn't know this until now) throws that idea out the window.  I mean seriously, these things can be had for less than the cost of a side by side?!?!  I've been wanting to build a dedicated recovery and trailside service rig for some time now but my truck is geared all wrong and my 4.0 just doesn't have the power I'd like to have for pulling guys with busted axles and what not.  

Is there enough space between the block and radiator to turbo the 6.2L motor?  It looks like it would be a tight squeeze it it can in fact be done.  Is there someone who makes winch ready bumpers for the HMMWV?  I'm sure I can cab up something custom but I'm curious to what all is available for these rigs.   Are all HMMWV's geared the same?  What's their gearing and crawl ratio?  What about towing and payload capacities?  If the rear bumper is useless, what about the front?  I'll do some of my own googling but if anyone knows the answer to any of these questions off hand I'd appreciate the insight.

The wife said she'd love to have a HMMWV to add to our off roading collection and gave me 'permission' to pick one up sometime this year. I'll have to look into getting it road worthy here in PA but it's not really a breaking point.  It would be cool, however, to trailer the Jeep behind the HMMWV and take 2 vehicles to the trails instead of needing 3.

I've got the heep recovery bumper for you

I'm not the most technically knowledgeable on these trucks but I can answer some of what you're looking for.

Winch bumpers... There are factory winch bumpers that work great! On the front you would need the winch plate as well as frame extensions (right and left)to mount it.





There is also a plate you can mount under the winch for protection. The cage you see on a couple of those is part of the driveline protection kit you can get for these trucks.

A word of caution, the winch plates I linked are set up with a 9"x4.5" mounting bolt pattern. As you probably know, most commercial winches are 10"x4.5".

Another thing to consider is that unless you have the dual voltage alternator that puts out 12v and 24v (actually 14v and 28v), you will either need to get a military 24v electric winch (which would of course fit the 9"x4.5" plate) or a hydraulic winch (may or may not fit depending on if you get a military model or commercial).

My truck has the dual voltage alternator so I'm going with a commercial electric winch. Going to have the mounting holes on mine elongated and the upper bolt reinforcements modified.



The rear bumper is far from useless! In fact, you can mount a rear winch on these trucks. The mounting systems were developed for the uparmored versions. There are both rear mounted hydraulic and electric options. I've got the rear electric mount on order for my truck so I don't have it in hand and can't tell you what the bolt pattern is on it. Here are a couple diagrams of the rear electric winch setup. There's one I've seen of the hydraulic but I don't have it because I wasn't going with hydraulic.





Mounting the just the rear bumper by itself will require the following:



- Airlift Bumper (that is the A2 bumper, the A0 bumper has wedge shaped side shackle stops instead of round)
- Left and Right Outer Brackets
- Left and Right Inner Brackets (these can be reversed)
- Left and Right Outer Braces
- Left and Right Inner Braces

There are also spacers plates but you can safely use grade 8 washers instead.


If you go with the rear winch mount, some parts are different and some aren't used.



(Ignore those 3 parts in the center, those are Rhino tire carrier mount pieces)

The inner braces are not used, the winch plate takes their place. The inner brackets are different to allow mounting of the plate to them. They are pictured above, below the winch plate.

Towing with the military pintle bumper mount isn't all that great and is limited to 4,200 lbs and only if it has the reinforcement MWO (modification work order) [MWO 9-2320-280-20-6] installed, basically a reinforcing plate.

To tow serious weight, install the civilian Hummer tow hitch:



The hitch is rated to 10,000 lbs with a weight distributing hitch. There is a smaller version but it is lighter duty.

To install that, you will need:

- The Hitch
- Outer Brackets (Left and Right)
- Braces (Left and Right)
- Brace Brackets (Left and Right)

Note:I don't know exactly how compatible this hitch is with the rear winch mount! You're mixing up civilian hardware and military hardware which may not be designed to work together and may need modified to do so!

I'm still waiting on my truck as well as much of this hardware so I can't say anything definitively. Once I get everything, I'll see just how it all fits and what needs modified (if anything).

Hope this helps save you some searching. I know it took me many hours of researching myself to find it all.

with the civi hitch the towing capacity is 7800#, not sure with a 6.2 and a 3 speed..

2nd to last photo, 3 of the parts are for a rhino drop down tire holder mounted to the rear bumper

Since the military Hummer has geared hubs giving it what...about a 5.10 gear ratio. Can these hubs be changed out to lower the gearing for highway use?

The A0 trucks have the following:

Transfer case low: 2.61:1, high: 1:1
Differentials: 2.56:1
Geared hubs: 1.92:1

The A1 trucks have:

Transfer case low: 2.72:1, high: 1:1
Differentials: 2.73:1
Geared hubs: 1.92:1

Not sure what the TH400s were geared at.

I'm not familiar with re-gearing the geared hubs and if you can it would probably need custom parts and be cost prohibitive. You can re-gear the diffs though and that would be a pretty standard thing to do. So far as I know the housings are basically AMC20 diffs and should accommodate those gear sets.

During my searching of the gear ratios I found a very old thread right here on ARFCOM with some good info! Look for posts by member NH2112.

This has been an outstanding thread with a lot of good info - R_R laid most everything that you need to know to get one so there are no surprises.

I ended up with 2





Also - I've got 2 sets of X-Doors for sale if anyone is interested in them for their trucks......

How much did you pay for the stantback, I've only seen 1 I think so far sold...or did you buy a 998 and buy a slantback kit?

I've had the slantback kit on hand for a while, this was an M1038 that I added the kit to.

Technically, anything that is considered an armament carrier goes to Captain Crunch due to the demil code on them, so you won't see M1025's, etc. going for sale in these auctions. My understanding is that the couple that did go to auction ended up getting pulled at a later time.

Thanks Lawman!

That slantback looks gorgeous!



In other news, my Ibis Tek 66" HID/IR light bar I bought from a member over on SS showed up today.

Hooked it up to some batteries and holy cow! Talk about bright!

Can't wait until my Eyecon MRAP 360° lighting kit shows up!

arfcom, yet again, costs me too much money.  I have won an auction and I will have a HMMWV (1989 M1038)!  






 

Just wait your going to need a second job!

I corrected your grammatical error above.   I got it for $9,500 (total invoiced cost of $11,130) and the bank wire paid for it, baby!





Anyone know when the risk of loss is passed on these after the auction?
 

Granted it's a single pic,  but the truck looks to be in amazing shape. Congrats on your purchase!

Congrats on the purchase EagleArms!




hesrightyouknow.jpg

Especially once you start seeing all the mods you can do and you've got all that free time waiting for the EUC to clear!

Before you know it you'll be up to your armpits in LED lighting, Ibis Tek products, and MRAP parts and your FedEx and UPS guys will hate you.

(Although yours won't hate you as much as mine who have had to drop off my airlift bumper, tons of various mounting brackets, and tow hitch parts. I happened to be home when the UPS guy was making a delivery today and as he's leaving he says, "See you tomorrow!" That's how you know you've gone too far! )

lol.  I already have a list of stuff I need like replacement seats for the front, rear seats, doors, battery, etc.  What do you think the chances the doors are in the cargo area?  Is there any way I can find out?  Might be an M60 back there.









 

I wouldn't count on the doors being there. If they were, they probably would have been mounted. Soft doors typically don't fare will at drmo, most are usually trash when they get turned in.

Like Lawman said, I wouldn't count on it. GovPlanet will do what they can within reason to bring as much money for a truck as they can. Mounting soft doors would probably fall within that, and if they were on the lazy side, they'd probably just take a picture of them in the bed.

I don't know, based on the pics this camera guy was pretty lazy in general.




What does "EUC Sent" mean?  That is what mine says, along with the date of 2/17/16 under "EUC Filed."





 

accidentally replied instead of editing my previous post.
 

I think that means it has been sent off to TSC which now has me concerned as mine still shows "EUC form printed"...

Found this a couple days ago if someone is interested
https://newyork.craigslist.org/stn/pts/5444674579.html

After this last night I sent a private message to Jwade, the GovPlanet manager that helps on SteelSoldiers, a message about my EUC's status. Looks like mine is just now getting processed today.

He said they've had people working from both newest and oldest ends to get through the paperwork which is why EagleArms' EUC has been processed before mine.

I appreciate his help in getting info out and I understand about being understaffed but, I can't say I'm all that happy about a 1 month wait for GovPlanet to essentially glance at my EUC and Hold Harmless to make sure they're signed and, forward the paperwork appropriately. Especially with over $11,000 tied up...

Hopefully, these things will get approved very quickly, but I am not counting on it.  





Question for all HMMWV owners:  I read something about needing to rebuild the geared hubs before driving these to prevent the wheel from falling off.  What is that about?
What does it cost to rebuild them and how much of a PITA is it?  Is there a specific TM with directions on how to complete this task?
 

The link below gives you an idea of what is involved on the geared hubs:

Link to geared hubs

Make a list of the things you want most and start looking/buying as prices on Ebay have been going up as more of these are sold.

Here is my recommendations:

1: Seats: You have the old style which will require you to drill out the old drivers side seat base and install the newer one for the high back seats.

2: LED lights

3: Doors. I went with X doors as I got a good deal on them locally

4: Rear bumper to add protection

When you get it do a complete "C" service, basically change every fluid, grease and inspect, if it's not leaking assume its good unless something doesn't look right..
I'd be more concerned about the 8 ball joints and tie rod ends..

How do you see the bidding history after the auction is complete?

GovPlanet says in their FAQ that a bid history link appears under the equipment details after the auction close but I checked my truck and yours and couldn't find it. Even checked under my account "Items Won" section.

Maybe they've gotten rid of it and haven't updated the FAQ.

Since one of the first things you should do when you get your new truck is replace the batteries, this is a good thread to read through in GD.

Replacing truck battery. Should I get an OPTIMA Red Top?

You might get lucky like I did and it come with almost new batteries. My batteries are labeled as being made in Sept of 2014. If you do get new red top optimas, you will need a battery tray adapter for the to fit properly and not slide around.

I got lucky as well in that both of mine were very much salvageable as well.

It's important that when you get yours that you do the "C" level service to the truck. There's no telling how long these sat before they were put up for auction, so it's best to just do it. With that said, on my softop, it appeared it went through a full service about 6 months before I got it judging by the date written on the oil filter. The fluids were clean and beautiful. I won't lie in that I just made sure the fluids were at the proper levels and I've been driving it ever since - do make sure those half-shaft bolts are torqued correctly. They do come loose and the damage can be catastrophic!

My other truck on the other hand was purchased as a non-runner and after replacing the missing parts, I see why it was used as a donor truck - the transmission wouldn't shift out of 1st.I finally broke down and dropped the pan on the transmission today. No metal but there was some dirt granules and what appeared to be water droplets. The fluid was burned black and the filter was plugged pretty bad too - no wonder it wouldn't shift.

I replaced the fluid/filter and added a cleanser to and drove it around for about an hour today, then I dropped the pan and replaced the fluid/filter again. So far, it seems to be running like it should so hopefully it stays that way. Of course, none of this explains why the filter clogged in the first place though, so I'll be keeping an eye on it.

That is an awesome picture, but it makes HMMWVs with cloth doors and tops look sloppy.  





Is there an acceptable way to mount a beltfed to an M998 or M1038?  If so, I will scrounge up some cash for one.  At this time I cannot spring for a hardtop and slantback setup though.
 

M6 Pedestal Mount

Anyone know how long it takes to get shipment bids?  I haven't heard anything since the auction last week.

I received bids after my euc was cleared.

I guess I am getting ahead of myself.



 

It will be a while until your euc clears. Until then plan your accessories accordingly.

More importantly, READ, READ and READ some more! Read the forums and look up frequent issues, download and read the TM's and read how to address those issues and then keep reading.

You've got 2-3 months of waiting before you can get your hands on it, so do the research now so that you can be ready when it's time to pick it up.

Just got off the phone with GovPlanet. I called them to ask about how I would be able to go about setting up an inspection of my truck while I'm waiting for my EUC to clear and was told I could only go inspect it after the EUC clears. That doesn't sound right to me. At that point, why would I need to go inspect it when I could just pick it up?  And I know you're allowed to go inspect an item before the sale.

Does this seem accurate to anyone else?

My truck is stored at a recycling/salvage yard in Hopkinsville, KY (I checked the address listed on my Hold Harmless) so it isn't like it's on base anywhere with restricted access.

Should I just try calling the salvage yard direct and seeing what they say?

Interesting.  Mine is listed as being on base.



 

Ryan - that's not accurate. Call the yard and speak to someone there, they're usually more than happy to accommodate with some notice.

Will do! Thanks!

I got mine Sunday.


All titled up in Ohio and ready to roll.

Now I Have to go over all 6 gear sets, and the T/Case.  

post pics



 

Going on crappy pictures alone, I'm preparing myself for having to get new tires. I'll know for sure if/when I can go look at the truck.

Depending on their shape and what he has available, I may be trading the tires/wheels on the truck in to a local surplus guy that might have 5 24 bolt wheels and new Goodyear MT or MTR tires.

If he doesn't have 5 matching tires, I'm going to just keep the 12 bolts I've got and get tires elsewhere. I've got a couple tire choices in mind and I'd like to hear if anyone has some thoughts on them (all are 37x12.50x16.5):

Treadwright Guard Dogs


Goodyear Wrangler MTs


Goodyear Wrangler MTRs


BFGoodrich Baja T/As



Even though the MTs are the cheapest, they're at the bottom of the pack since I'm pretty sure all of the others are better tires.

The Treadwrights are the most expensive at $200/each but have the benefit of being essentially new tires for a fraction of the cost. The reviews seem to be good as well.

I can also save a little money and get surplus, lightly used (80%-85% or 90%-95%) surplus MTRs or Baja T/As online. From what I've seen, the MTRs are pretty good tires. I'd really like to know more about the BFGs though. How do they stack up next to the MTRs? I know both are current use on mil trucks. Just wondering if anyone has direct experience with them to share or other tire recommendations I'm leaving out.

All of the ones above should be right at or under $1,200 (shipped) for 5 of them and that's about top end on what I'm looking to spend.

More importantly, details please on your titling experience here in Ohio!

Specifically, if you don't mind, what county you did it in. You can PM me the county if you don't want to post it openly. I'd just like to be able to tell my local BMV to call your county for guidance if they give me problems.

It is very much appreciated!