As I set here sweating after detailing my second car one each weekend, I thought it would be fun to share my little secrets and possibly hear yours.  

About the Author

I'm avid car collector and have and do restore older cars.  I did the show circuit for three years.  I currently have four, just sold one, and have one in mid-restoration.  I won't go into show car detailing but stick to what an Average Joe can do that rivals the show car or to give their car that show car look.  

Average Joe Engine Detail

This is probably the most overlooked aspect of detailing a car although it does wonders for your cars appearance.  Used car lots well know that a detailed engine will sell car faster than a running motor and show car people spend as much time on their engines as their bodies.  

The method I will discuss here is for the common Joe that just wants his car to look sharp and a very easy to do.

First, blow your engine compartment off with compressed air to get loose leaves and bugs ect out of the engine.  If you don't have compressor simply do it at your local gas station that has air.  The trick to any detailing is paying to the details so don't forget behind the firewall and in front of the windshield.

Now either let the engine cool to the touch but still warm or run it long enough to get warm to the touch

Cover all the electrical connectors, electronics boxes, and anywhere else you wouldn't want water to get in with saran wrap using twist ties or rubber bands where needed.  On engines with spark plugs sunk into the engine heads, I cover them with saran wrap and also rags to catch water.  

Soak the entire engine with industrial strength water based degreaser.  Not going to get big headed here and recommend a brand name but the pump bottles work best and every autoparts store carries them in stock.  Let it set for ten minutes to loosen up the grease.

Now take your hose and wash off the degreaser.  I'm not an advocate of high pressure water sprays since they tend to get into the connectors and long term can cause corrosion issues.  A simple water hose spray off does wonders and the grease will just poor right off.  

Let the engine compartment dry.  While the engine is still wet pay attention how nice the plastic, wires, and hoses look for this is motivation for a further step.

After the engine dries, remove the plastic saran wrap.  It is amazing how easy this stuff comes off after wet.  Allow just a few more minutes to allow this to dry.  

Now go back and use vinyl protector to shine up the wires, hose, and electrical housings.  You may want to use you favorite metal polish to shine the smooth metal parts.  I actually have a preference here I like 2001 which doesn’t leave a yellow film behind like other brands.  

Step back and look what you just did.  It will look like a new car.  Now a show car person will go back in and wax the painted parts but for the average Joe it really isn’t necessary.  

Average Joe Body Detailing  

Wash your car with your preferred method.  Don't get carried away here just a good job.  

When it dries and not necessary to hand dry if you are detailing, use Mequirs Body Scrub and Paint cleaner (clear coat safe) and use a rag to go completely over the car.  Pay attention to any spot really into the paint.  The directions call using your finger nail on stubborn places but I found using a dime behind the rag works much better.  This will take the old wax off as well as all those old stains that have been there for years.  Take your time on this step and pay attention to detail.  This stuff is really amazing especially on front bumpers, which really catch the bugs, and hoods that catch tree sap.

If you have an older car that doesn't have a clear coat, you may want to compound the paint to get the oxidation out.  There's a shortcut around this futher in this writeup.  This is also a good time for any touch up paint you may want to use.  There's some great sites on the web for touch up paints to include clear coat kits but usually the Average Joe doesn't go into this much detail.  

Now polish the car with your favorite brand car polish.  This is the undercoat for the wax and protects your new found paint job from the wax.  

Follow the polish up with a coat of wax.  I really like Mothers cleaning wax for clear coats.  It goes on easy and comes off hard but makes your cars finish shine like a mirror and lasts for months.   This is canuba wax so you can actually feel when it is off and the method I use is remove the wax then go back using feel while buffing and looking for any snags which is wax you left.  Still whatever works for you is fine.

A little trick on older cars with faded colors or more than normal dings is to use Turtle Wax Color Magic wax.  This actually has color pigments in the wax and will make old car look new.  As Seen on TV has a version but I believe it is Turtle Wax.  This stuff really works filling in many dings and scratches with a temporary color.  They claim up to 12 months but I've found usually six is the norm.

Now use your favorite metal polish to polish all the shiny metal.  Aluminum mags I prefer one of the spray on and rinse offs but shiny mags or chrome I polish them.    

Like your engine, here is what sets it off and apart from the car wash guy.  Now use your vinyl protector to go back and coat the black plastic parts and rubber molding.  Apply your favorite tire black then while you are waiting on that to dry, go ahead and clean your windows and light lenses.  

Now open your hood and look at your show car.


Hope you guys enjoyed this and look forward to any little tricks you have of your own.

Tj  

Quoted: Have you ever tried any of the 3M polishes or waxes?

Very much so.  Major fan of 3m products especially after a fresh paint job.  I'm not going to run to the garage at the moment but they make a polish that is about the best I've ever used for feathering paint to make it blend.  This is espcially important when you have just had like bumper painted.  Heck I did it on a new car once.  Elastomerics are added to runbber bumper paints.  Depending on the color, the bumper can sometimes be an off color with a distinct pait line.  The 3m feather polish can actually blend the paints at the joining points.  What makes this stuff so cool is it can be applied while the paint is still curing and won't effect cure times or cause peeling.  Neat stuff.  

3M has so many products and so speicalized its almost impossible to keep track of them but when jobs seems impossible after a little research it is what I go for.  NAPA usually carries the best selections of 3M products.

Big fan of their automotive adheasive remover which the best cosmolene remover I have found for guns.  

Tj

Quoted: If you have a car with an aluminum block or heads degreaser will leave horrible looking residue all over the aluminum that will not come off. Do not do this on an aluminum engine.

Yes aluminum presents its own set of problems.  That white residue is Almunium oxide which is the same residue you get on mags, however cleaning it off the engine isn't quite so easy.  The foam mag cleaners which are spary on and rinse off for example are extremely corrosive to steel parts and rust 50 time harder to clean than aluminum oxide.  

There are two methods I use.  The first is to use the spary mag cleaner.  While wearing platic gloves I apply the mag cleaner by hand using a sponge.  Then use a sponge careful to not let water drip on steel parts to rinse it off.  The is the quick method with good to moderate results.

For best results I use the rag impregnated or steel wool impregnated almuminum/metal polish.  I simply rub it on until I start getting a black discoloration then let it dry.  Then wipe with a clean rag. On a smooth surface I do a compete polish such as valve covers.  

Its more work than spay and rinse but the results are fantastic.

The car I did last weekend was Aluminum block, heads, intake, and valve covers.  I actually polished the valve covers, simply rubbed off intake to revomove teh oxidation, and didn't tuch the heads or bloack for the white residue still looked 200% better than grease and oil.  This was a 1992 that the engine had never been detailed.  BTW,the car sold to the first fewer after detailing.

Another product worth mentioning is cast iron gray.  This is a high temp paste used on rusty steel  exhaust manifolds that make them look factory new.  This has a weird smell and takes a while to cook on, running the engine, but the results are fantastic.

Tj

Quoted: I pay someone to do my car, but I detail my bikes. A good trick us to ue a leaf blower to dry.....

Very good point and will take it a step further.  If you remove the bugs in your radiator during a high pressure car wash, the blower works pretty good for cleaning the engine compartment of loose debris in lieu of high pressure air.

Tj

Quoted: When dressing the engine compartment, don't use anything with silicone in it, it can kill your engine sensors. I actually don't get crazy with the dressing like the car dealers do, as it attracts alot of dirt and dust.

That's very true.  I don't know what the dealors use but it is like an oil and doesn't dry. I suspect a oil base engine degreaser.  That way they don't have to mask the electronics or rinse or apply vinyl protectant to the wires to make them shine.  It does attract dirt and dust like magnet.  I suspect they do a spray of an oil like substance and let it go.  That's really not detailing but masking and totally not on my reccommendation list as well.  

A good engine detail job done right won't attract anymore dirt or dust than a new engine.

Very good point though.  


Tj

Quoted: A few more tips. Clay Bar:  Do this before you polish/wax the car.  It removes ALL the contaminants from the surface of the paint.  Run your fingers over your freshly waxed car/truck.  If you feel little bumps and crap, you need to caly the paint.  I did this on my moms 1990 Honda Accord and it is like BRAND NEW!!! Wax:  I've tried alot, and for a one step process, I find that Meguires #26 is an EXCELLENT wax.  Makes my 2005 silve F250 look great, like the paint is still wet. Good auto detailing forum

Funny you should mention this but Turtle Wax has changed the name of their product now from Color Magic to Color cure and it comes with a color pencil for filling in cracks similar to a clar bar except pigmented.  Best deal I found was on As Seen on TV where they have the entire kit including two bottles, two pens, 2001 wipes, and wash synthetic wool for $9.99.  The pen and bottle are normally $8.99 for one bottle.  

If you like the Mequires wax, you really ought to try their wash sometimes.  A tad more expensive than other brands, it sure does a job.  It lathers exceptionaly and desolves grease and dirt very well.  Their polish is better than average as well.  Good products Mequires.

Another unique product is Mothers Chrome polish.  Not exceptional on chrome but unbelieveable what it will do on mirrors.  

Another good point you touch on is removing wax.  I can't stress how important this is.  Too much wax left over time will actually ruin your clear coat especially on older cars.  The older wax left underneath will yellow with age.   The Mequires Body Scrub I mentioned in my first post is actually a clay based solvent designed to remove wax as well as take out stubborn stains.  It is almost like a liquid rubbing compound and also removes oxidation.  

My preference for canuba is how hard it is and it actually protects against rock dings, however I stress it is best applied over a polish and it is a bitch to remove and buff but IMHO worth the effort.

Tj

I'm to lazy to put that much effort into detailing. I've never enjoyed washing or waxing cars. When I bought my IROC I forced myself to wash it religiously. I'll never buy a black car again!
However..for general maintenance washing..the Mr. Clean drip dry car wash system works great.

I have aluminum vavle covers and intake on it...I'm going to try something a little different this winter TJ. I'm going to gun kote them with their stainless steel finish!
Where do you wash your engine off at? I've never done it because I didn't want a huge puddle of greasy water in my driveway. This is the best wax job I've done to date..and the first one I did on it. I spent approx 2 hours washing and waxing it. The white spots aren't on the paint..I'm not sure what they are.

I have an asphalt drive so it isn't an issue.  On a concrete drive it would be an issue.  

Many quarter car washes have engine sprays.  Same technigue could be used there allowing time for the engine to cool, wrap the electronics, but don't recommend the high pressure rather to hold the wand back.  You could strip the saran wrap there before driving home then allow the engine to cool again before adding the vinyl proetectant to the wires, boxes, and hoses.  

Please remember this is the Average Joe method.  Many show people do this all by hand which really takes a long time.  This method will not take you to the stick a mirror underneath oh wow status but open the hood and be proud status.  

Car meets are becoming very popular here in TN with two in the area each weekend.  Nothing formal and no fees or prizes, just a bunch of car heads showing their cars off and BSing about cars.  Not bad fun on a slow night.

This is the car we just did.  Although sharp in the picture, it was amasing the contrast after the detailing.



Tj

I have an asphalt driveway too..with a big oil stain on it already!
I probably won't do the engine or under the hood as I bought the car to drive and would end up going nutz trying to stay ahead of it. As you noticed..I didn't have the hood open in the show. I also have stone chips in the paint, a few minor cracks in the paint on the bumper facia, a real nice scratch on the hood courtesy of a small rock in my wash mitt..
It's the factory paint so I intend to look after it but to do detailing at the level you do..I don't have the paitence.

Quoted: I have an asphalt driveway too..with a big oil stain on it already! I probably won't do the engine or under the hood as I bought the car to drive and would end up going nutz trying to stay ahead of it. As you noticed..I didn't have the hood open in the show. I also have stone chips in the paint, a few minor cracks in the paint on the bumper facia, a real nice scratch on the hood courtesy of a small rock in my wash mitt.. It's the factory paint so I intend to look after it but to do detailing at the level you do..I don't have the paitence.

Neither do I my friend, what I do have is a persistant wife.

For those nicks and scratches and impatience, you may want to try the Turtlewax Color Cure.  I actually think they screwed up when they stopped calling it magic.

BTW, Kitty litter does wonders on oil stains.

Tj

Nice bud, now if we can just get you to black those tires and spray tire black in those fender wells, you will be stylin!

Did want to point out guys the reason why I like and recommend the Mequires Body Scrug is it does have compound/clay as well as wax solvents.  It works far faster and easier than just clay removing most grime and wax with a wipe and works about the same as clay or compound on the stubborn parts.

Having used clay and compounds for years, I was astounded at how easy this product is to use.

TJ

Just bought this today. On sale at Crappy tire for $20. What now TJ?
Simoniz 8" orbital buffer. Came with a foam applicator pad, "coarse" texture terry cloth and 2 "fine" terry cloth pads.

Thanks CP. I was thinking the same thing in regards to the weather. Will the polish remove any light scratches?

Quoted: Got a whole day Strike? Wash with dish soap to remove the old wax then clay bar the whole car per the instructions on the box. Use that buffer thingy to apply a high quality polish like Meguirs a bit at a time. Dont let it dry before you remove it. Remove the polish with terry towels, lots of clean ones. Do one small area at a time. Change your terry pad and apply the wax. You can do the whole car and let it dry. Put a buffing pad on and buff it up. I used a terry towel to remove some of the dried wax by hand before I went to the buffer. Then I went over the whole car, changed to a clean pad and went back over it again. Thats a quickie version of how I did it. You have perfect weather up there now for this kind of work but make sure you're in the shade still. TJ, what's your method?

Same, however I don't dish soap or clay bar anymore.  The Mequires Body Scrub contains clay as well as wax solvent.  You can use it with your buffer.  With this product you don't need the clay bar nor the dish soap.  You can simply spray wash then apply the Scrub using your buffer to clean off the embedded debris, wax, and work the clay to remove oxidation.

This is the only product I highly recommend in my write up for it is one heck of a time saver for the same if not better results.  

My progression over the years was from rubbing compound to claybar to Mequires Body Scrub.  IMHO, the clay bar like rubbing compound has been replaced by new technology.  Those Mequires people are pretty sharp.  

Tj

does Mequires make a complete detail kit with all the lotions and potions?

Quoted: TJ, thanks for the tip on Meguir's body scrub, I'm going to try it next. Striker, just google car wax and Meguir's will be near the top. They have lots of how to stuff, FAQs and product info on their website. I'm not sure if they sell direct but they do have "kits" and package deals. TJ, I cannot find the body scrub on their website. Are you sure that's the exact name? Got a pic of the product or a link?

Sorry been in the bonnies a while.  

Yea, I got the name right of the bottle.

Funny they don't show it in their general product listing as you posted but mention it in this write-up which BTW is pretty close to our write-ups.

Clear Coat Body Scrub A1016   Product name and number.

www.meguiars.co.nz/advice/knowledge-centre.cfm

I picked my bottle up at Advance Auto.  

Found Summitt Racing carries it for $6.99 a bottle.

store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp?part=MEG-A-1016

This link also has a short but good write-up on what it does.

Tj

Stupid question TJ but..how do you clean the pads from your buffer?
ETA..I see that body scrub is for clear coat.
My IROC isn't clear as near as I can tell..plus I have some light scratches to deal with. Any suggestions tj?

Quoted: Stupid question TJ but..how do you clean the pads from your buffer? ETA..I see that body scrub is for clear coat. My IROC isn't clear as near as I can tell..plus I have some light scratches to deal with. Any suggestions tj?

You may think this weird but I put a little Dawn in a bucket then hand wash by scrubbing it surface to surface and wringing.  I then hang dry them.  If its warm enough to wax, its warm enough to wash.  I do this in a bucket cause I don't want car wax buildup in my home plumbing.

As for not a clear coat, IMHO that's really good in many aspects.  That means you can really bring the color back due to fading and oxidation.  That clear coat look, you simply get from the wax.  A non-clear coat, I highly recommend a canuba final wax which will make it really shine, however avoid classic canuba.  Unless you have the buffer from hell, it will bog it down and it is a pain to get off by hand.  Once again Mequairs to the rescue with a liquid canuba that works well with a buffer.

For clear coat for all practical purposes simply means clear coat safe.  Some clear coats are far more delicate in many ways from paint.  They are easy to scratch, yellow, and peel even (due to waxes not being cleaned off).   A general term in the industry "For Clearcoat" or "Clearcoat safe" is simply a way of saying gentle but they still work fine on paints.  

Almost every product I use either says for clearcoats or clearcoat safe these days.  Having had one car peel, its clearcoat makes you a tad careful.  

Tj

Quoted: tag, even though I'll never get around to doing this

Bud, If you want to know the practicallity simply got to KellyBlueBook.com and do a comparrison between trade in value of your car and retail price.  That's basically the difference between what you can trade your car for and what you can sell it for.  With the current used car glut the delta is amazing.

A typical two week add in you local paper, about $50, and four to six hours detailing your car can literaly save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars by selling the car yourself.

I recently sold a 92 Miata and the savings by selling it myself was $800.  That's not bad for a $50 investment and one Saturdays time.  I had six people look at it before detailing and pass.  The first person who looked at it after detailing bought it.  Not only that, but called me back a week later to tell me how much he enjoys the car.

Tj

Thanks TJ. I've already been told I'm not to go near the bosses washing machine with anything car related..
I use carnuba paste wax now..it's one of the few things I remember from a seminar I went to when I worked a parts counter.
I have all winter to collect the supplies. It's getting to cool up here now to wax the car.

Quoted: Thanks TJ. I've already been told I'm not to go near the bosses washing machine with anything car related.. I use carnuba paste wax now..it's one of the few things I remember from a seminar I went to when I worked a parts counter. I have all winter to collect the supplies. It's getting to cool up here now to wax the car.

LOL, Winter is what got me to do this thread.

I always put a good coat of wax on my cars before winter to keep all that nasty road stuff off my paint.

Tj

Quoted: Winter?

Yep, we don't have much of a winter here too but I do travel up north sometimes.  I got in the habit my five winters on the Great Lakes and never got out of it.  

Notice I always measure my time on the Great Lakes in winters.

Quoted: I always put a good coat of wax on my cars before winter to keep all that nasty road stuff off my paint. Tj

I have a car cover and heated garage to keep that nasty road stuff off the IROC!

Quoted: If you have scratches in your windows depending on how deep they are you can use regular old crest toothpaste to get the scratch out. Just rub it in just like you are waxing your car and somethimes you have to be persistent about it depending on how deep the scratch is. If it is really deep you might not get the scratch out but it will look better than it did before. Not only does this work on windows it works on anything that is glass like your watch face or bathroom mirrors. The toothpaste has to be creast and it has to but the regular old fashion set your mouth on fire toothpaste all that gel or flavored crap wont do it.

Good reminder.  It is basically a mild abraisive.

A commerical product that does a very good job on glass is Mothers Chrome Polish also a very mild abraisive.

Tj