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Posted: 6/13/2005 7:54:19 PM EDT
UPS came today, I was happy as a pig in shit! My A1 upper came in from BM as well as from Del-ton my new DPMS M4 no-ban barrel for my M4gery and my 16” carbine kit that I was going to mate to the A1 upper.

First was the M4gery re-barrel which went smooth as silk. Next came the kit. I put the lower together and started on the barrel install on the A1 upper. The barrel nut needed a bit more of a nudge to line up but nothing out of the ordinary. As I slapped the upper and lower together and shouldered my new toy I realized that the FSB was canted a bit to the left. No problem I thought, I’ll just pull the gas tube, loosen the barrel nut and re-torque it. Well as soon as I attempted to loosen the barrel nut the pins on my GI wrench started tearing away the teeth on the barrel nut!

So now I feel like shit! My brand-new rifle is screwed! I can’t back the nut either way, and I used plenty of moly grease. So who would you guys recommend I send this goat fu*k off to, to get the barrel removed, a new barrel nut installed and the whole barrel/upper reassembled?

I was thinking ADCO. Any recommendations?
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 8:13:07 PM EDT
[#1]
I have used ADCO in the past and they've always been top notch.  Perhaps you can find a good gun shop in your area.  Any gun shows soon for you?  You never know where you'll run up on an ARFCOM friendly dealer.
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 8:55:21 PM EDT
[#2]
ADCO +1
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 9:25:01 PM EDT
[#3]
Who is it that makes the barrel nut wrench that engages most or all the teeth

EDIT - DPMS?  dsgarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 9:35:00 PM EDT
[#4]
Yeah GI wrenches suck, Try a pipe wrench, No really the barrel nut is FUBAR anyway right?
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 10:06:10 PM EDT
[#5]
Man, sorry to hear that! I was expecting your result  in my other thread...
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 10:33:35 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
Man, sorry to hear that! I was expecting your result  in my other thread...



Yea, I’m really disappointed, maybe I should have left good enough alone! Oh well chock that up for experience. But I can tell you I’m really pleased with the quality of the kit. Only thing wrong was the roll pin was missing from the stock lever pin. No big deal, I can pick one up at Lowes.

I was really impressed with the fit and finish of the bolt and carrier. Smooth as a baby ass and the carrier is even the new type with the firing pin shroud!

Back to the barrel issue, I went to Del-ton’s site and ordered a better armorers  wrench like the one mentioned above along with a new barrel nut and FSB taper pins just in case. After cooling off I realized I can fix this my self by removing the FSB and replacing the barrel nut.

On the BM web site they suggest placing the barrel/upper assy in the freezer overnight if the barrel nut will not come loose, so I’ll give her another shot in the morning!
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 11:02:24 PM EDT
[#7]
I did take a few pics of tonights work.


Here's my new DPMS M4 barrel that replaced my post-ban barrel.






Here's a shot of my old RRA lower awaiting the new re-barreled upper, my new BM A1 upper with new RRA lower and the Del-ton kit with light wt. DPMS barrel.





Lt. Wt. barrel being installed on my BM A1upper.





And for my final act.........my FUBAR barrel nut!






Link Posted: 6/13/2005 11:18:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 11:42:17 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
did you grease the threads?

where are you located?



Yep.....I used some aircraft quality moly lube grease. In one of the pics I even have the container sitting out on the bench with the acid brush!


This is my next step, I found this tip on the Bushmaster web site:

One other trick we should mention is for when you are torquing on a barrel nut and everything locks up. A squeaking noise, then it's like it's welded right there. The surest way to break something is to keep trying to loosen it. This trick is so simple, we couldn't believe it. Put the whole assembly in the freezer, and leave it overnight. This gets some differential expansion working for you. Pull it out the next day, and it will almost always come loose. We recommend using an action block, like the one we sell, and clamping on the receiver to prevent breaking the index pin when doing this. A really good wrench, like the heavy duty one we sell, will prevent ruining the barrel nut.
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 11:46:48 PM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 6/13/2005 11:50:33 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
and the teeth started breaking when you tried to loosen the nut?

bizarre




Yep! She's in the freezer now like mentioned above. So tomorrow I'm going to try using a pipe wrench. Believe it or not the pipe wrench is called out in the TM!
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 12:59:40 AM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 1:18:48 AM EDT
[#13]
When my barrel was stuck (from the factory, an LMT) I also used the freezer trick, also after completely screwing the barrel nut.  After the freezer I used a pair of channel-locks and a piece of pipe to get it off.  The freezer worked like a charm.
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 1:54:23 AM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 2:53:22 AM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
you guys scare the hell out of me, I've never had to freeze or heat an AR.



You're lucky then.  when you have the DPMS wrench with a 3' piece of pipe stuck over the end for a HUGE moment arm, and you're putting 175lbs (all I've got) of force on the end of the pipe and it STILL won't come off, you'll change your tune.
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 3:00:50 AM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 3:10:04 AM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:
bub, I don't know who you think you're talking to but I used to build 8-15 rifles a day, 5 days a week, for years.

I'd bet that if most you had the right experience there'd be a lot less cooking and freezing of rifles going on.



I agree Tweek.
maybe they don't know lefty loosy from righty tighty
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 3:21:41 AM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
bub, I don't know who you think you're talking to but I used to build 8-15 rifles a day, 5 days a week, for years.

I'd bet that if most you had the right experience there'd be a lot less cooking and freezing of rifles going on.



You're right, there's such a trick to lining up the wrench with the teeth and turning.  Good thing you have that degree in quantum physicsto get you through it.

I rode a motorcycle for 5 years and never crashed, yet I know that crashes happen every day through no fault of the rider.  There are thousands of pilots that go an entire career without crashing their planes, yet planes crash due to mechanical failure every year.  You don't have to experience something to know that it is possible.
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 3:36:52 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
in the 23&P? odd, I've never seen that, or a pipe wrench shown in the armorer's tool kit. which page?




I don't know about the pipe wrench being an issue item in the armorer's tool kit...... In my .pdf copy it's a note on page 3-35.

Link Posted: 6/14/2005 3:37:09 AM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:
you guys scare the hell out of me, I've never had to freeze or heat an AR.



i was thinking the same thing ! personally i use a wrench that makes contact with about 80% of the nut serations, making certain it is firmly seated.., then give it some super anti-torque !! lefty loosey
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 3:53:33 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
I agree Tweek.
maybe they don't know lefty loosy from righty tighty




My idea of lefty loosy and righty tighty has kept me employed in aviation maintenance for 20+years.    


Let’s not start questioning peoples mechanical abilities or backgrounds, ok? I applied aircraft quality moly grease to the threads tightened and loosened the barrel nut three times with the final nut alignment on the third time going to the next closest hole.

I guess this just happened to be too much torque for the GI wrench pins to engage the barrel nut properly and back the nut off. My first attempt with all three pins fully engaged sheared the serrations in the nut.


Link Posted: 6/14/2005 4:01:04 AM EDT
[#22]
cut the d-ring off and put the pipe wrench to the barrel nut.
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 4:20:34 AM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 4:48:33 AM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:
cool, good to know it's an approved method



Not only approved, but in conjunction with the Bushmaster freezer trick I removed the barrel nut!  

I gave the GI wrench one last try though......and it failed.      So I simply released the D-ring circlip which let me slide the whole D-ring back and I had plenty of room to get the pipe wrench on the barrel nut. A couple pulls and the barrel nut was loose!

And I’m relieved that there is no damage to the barrel pin or receiver, which I doubted to begin with because like I stated earlier I didn’t apply that much torque. I guess it was just too much for the GI wrench to handle, or I got a soft barrel nut!

But anyway, the FS and FSB are removed as well as the FUBAR barrel nut. Replacement parts are on order with Del-Ton along with a nice NEW style armorers wrench!

The armorers wrench on the Del-Ton site appears to be the DPMS model........anyone know if this is true? I’d hate to order a cheap knock off wrench and go through this fiasco again!
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 4:58:47 AM EDT
[#25]
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 5:06:18 AM EDT
[#26]
Link Posted: 6/14/2005 5:16:53 AM EDT
[#27]
The index pin is the small round pin protruding from the top of the barrel extension. As the barrel is slid into the receiver a groove in the receiver accepts the barrels index pin. This pin aligns the barrel with the receiver and prevents the barrel from turning.

Check here:
Changing your own AR15 barrel for dummies


This tacked post has very good pics of the index pin.
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