User Panel
Posted: 6/5/2005 8:58:22 AM EDT
I'll get pics up tomorrow. The LaRue 9.0 is set to show up tomorrow and I'll take pics of the build and parts then.
From a strictly cosmetic perspective, these barrels appear top notch. Very consistent and clean cut on the bezel. Nicely done stamping (though small print). Even finish and chrome application. Absolutely glass smooth chambers. Clean bore. The only thing that I'll note is that while they spec'd an F front sight assembly, they used a 0.72" rifle width front sight post. I'll probably swap that out with a 0.62" carbine post that I have in my parts bin. The government profile is nicely executed. I don't particularly care about the barrel weight as long as it is either LW to medium profile (though I'm not a fan of the M4 cut forward of the gas port). I can't wait to get my FedEx package from MSTN tomorrow! Thanks to twl for the barrel sale. Corey EDITED for typo. EDITED to change title to "LaRue 9.0 build should happen soon...." |
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Sounds great! I'm also waiting on a Sabre 16", 1/7 mid- length barrel! I'll also be using a LaRue 9.0 so I'm looking forward to seeing your pics!
BTW, what's the specs on the barrel you got? |
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Chrome bbl and chamber, 1/9, no M4 extension (it's going on a Bushie receiver). I almost am kicking myself for not waiting for the 1/7 and M4 barrels, but realistically I'd almost never shoot anything bigger than 68 grain. And I'd have to swap uppers for the M4 extension. So really I'd only be going with the 1/7 and M4 extension for bragging rights. But my bragging rights on the 1/9 barrel are that it will be a complete rifle tomorrow night! Seriously though, I will be very happy with the 1/9. Corey |
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Did you get a Giffman barrel? |
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Sounds like Yojimbo got the TalonArms group buy Sabre barrel. Corey PS All the tags for pics are making me really glad that I got a new digital camera and don't have to rely on the shooting buddy taking pics on our (now way too infrequent) range visits. |
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Looks good!
BTW, does Sabre use straight or taper pins for the FSB? |
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From the pic, I'd guess straight, but that's just a SWAG. |
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I'm glad you mentioned this. I am familiary with taper pins but not straight. How are straight pins removed and installed? TIA, Corey |
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If they are indeed straight pins then I'm guessing that they can punched out just like taper pins but it won't matter which side you do it from. IIRC, taper pins are punched out towards the ejection port side.
I'm sure mongo will be around soon to either confrim or corret me... |
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Are they reusable? Just as solid as taper pins? Corey |
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The straight pins should be reusable and just as soilid as the taper pins. As mongo mentioned on another thread the taper pins lock in place and can only be taken out and installed in one direction, that should be the only difference.
My CMMG upper has straight pins on FSB and when ADCO installed my MRE rail Steve reused the pins so I would assume the Sabre FSB pins would be the same way.
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I've floated a few RRA barrels with straight pins and the process is pretty much the same as taper pins, except easier in most cases. The straight pins have come right out for me, not real easy, but nothing very hard either, not like a few taper pins I have had to deal with. |
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Here Corey,
Thanks for the info and pics. I'm thinking about getting a couple of these myself.
Can you post a pic of the stamping? Thanks |
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I'll try and get a picture of the stamping up tonight. Corey |
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Thanks for the update on the Sabre barrel, Corey. Did it come as shown with the Delta ring? Did it include a gas tube? Let us know how it shoots because I'm really on the fence between their 1:9 and 1:7 midlength barrels.
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Other than the sealed plastic bag, that's how it came from Sabre. All set and ready to go (if you're using standard handguards).
It was an additional $15. The gas tube had a beveled and reinforced ring around the end that goes into the carrier key. I've never seen that before. Maybe it's to seal it a bit more for gas performance? I don't know, but I'll try to remember to takes pics of it (I'll add it to the growing list).
How it shoots? Did he just say "how it shoots"? Like, as in, take it to the range and shoot it? Hahahaha! How it shoots! Man, that's a good one! Corey (who has about zero free time lately...) |
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Lack of time and lack of places... Thanks for the info. I'm going to give Sabre a shot (bad pun, I'm sorry) once the funds are available. Did you get yours from Talon? |
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More time for me, but.... I got it through twl (MGI). He was very good to deal with. I would also not hesitate to buy through TalonArms. Corey |
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LOL...I know that 'feeling' of finally reaching perfection...it happens jest about the time the latest "gottahaveit" improvement comes out... |
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Yojimbo has good taste in barrels. Ok, ok I'm just saying that because we both bought CMMG 16" barrels back when they still subcontracted to DPMS and now we're both in on the TalonArms group buy.
Strange.. I pulled my own FSB when I installed a Samson MRFS-MX and I could swear the pins were tapered. Drifted them out the ejection port side. I kept them, they're around here somewhere... Corey, Regarding the gas tube, I'm not sure what you mean by your description. Need pics! If it's what I think it is the PRI Fat Boy has the same thing. I consider the PRI Fat Boys to be the finest gas tubes in the materials and workmanship department I've ever seen. Not that this any kind of incredible revelation, I wouldn't expect any less from PRI. |
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I just double checked my FSB and the pins are look straight. It's possible that different types of pins might have been used in the different batches. The Sabre gas tube does sound like it's better constructed than standard ones. Please post pics! |
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According to SD they have a different source for midlength gas tubes than what they use for carbine & rifle. To quote oem of SD: "They are made by a stainless steel tubing manufacture that carters to the medical field they are ground to spec, then the plug is welded not crimped for a better seal and fit , if they did not cost more we would use then in all lengths." |
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Oh what a night....
I spent 1.5 hours working on these pins (which I believe are straight). It seems there is a very heavy park finish over them that made breaking them free difficult. Yes, I used the socket trick. Yes, I tried them from both sides. Yes, the heads mushroomed. Yes, I dremeled the enlarged heads off. Yes, I considered drilling them out with a hand drill last night (I didn't want to risk it as I didn't have a small drill bit and didn't want to damage the bbl/FSA). Yes, I was eventually able to get them to move a very slight bit (out the left side). Yes, I was in front sight pin hell. Yes, I stopped before I destroyed anything. I need the front sight assembly on this barrel so I don't want to cut it off. It appears to be still very much usuable. But I need to know who I can send the barrel to to get these damn pins out. I am willing to pay. My first priority is rescuing the front sight assembly. I can finish the upper assembly (with new pins). Possibly I'd consider just having someone else reassembly (I have the LaRue 9.0). Can anyone offer any suggestions? Corey PS To add insult to injury, I had to replace a circuit breaker in our house last night. I shut down (i.e., properly powered off) my computer, killed the main in the house, swapped breaker, and powered the house back up. Now the computer won't boot. So, I would show you pics of the taper pins, but can't download pics on the computer I'm using right now. My computer was protected by a power strip. When I turn the computer on, I hear sounds like it's starting to boot (maybe about 5 seconds worth), then nothing. Computer advice is also appreciated. I'm not a happy camper right now.... |
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Do you have any Kroil? Let them soak in that for awhile! Did the FSB pins mushroom easily/right away as if they weren't hardend? SD parks after assembly so the pins, where they go into the barrel, etc. should all be unparked bare metal. Which is actually probably more difficult than if they had been parked separately and then assembled.
That sucks man, do you have spare computer parts you can try? The first thing I'd check is the outlet & power strip/surge protector followed by the computer's power supply. |
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Is this something that I can buy at a hardware store? Is it sufficient to apply it and let it soak, or do you need to submerge the parts?
I wouldn't say that they mushroomed easily. But yes, they did eventually mushroom (which I ground off (very carefully) with a dremel.
It looked like it was going to be difficult as the park finish had almost created a seem between the pin and the sight assembly.
No spare parts to try. I wonder if (when I turned the power on) a surge jumped the surge protector/power strip and zapped the computer. I hope it's only the power supply as I had a hard drive die on me last year and this is a pretty new setup. I am not amused. Corey |
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Boy, you had a shitty night. Sorry to hear that. First thing I would try is plug the PC straight into the outlet (by-passing the power strip). If that doesn't work, unplug everything connected to the PC except for the Keyboard, Mouse and monitor. Still no luck? Unplug the monitor and try again. Still no luck? Time to open the case but your knowledge and comfort level come into play here. Some thing to pay attention to. When you power it on, does the fan on the power supply come on and stay on? Does you machine have any LEDs (front or back) that come when when you try and boot? You say it starts to boot, do you hear any beeps that you don't normally hear? |
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Thanks. I'll try your suggestions. If they don't clue me in on something I think I'm just going to take it into the shop.... BTW, a friend told me that power strip type surge protectors don't work when they're turned off. That's how I powered the computer down (turned off the power strip). I'm guessing that when I turned the house back on, that's when the computer got damaged as the power strip was turned off. Corey PS Here's a thread I've started for the computer issue: ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=358733&page=1 |
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BTW, I should also say that Tom (twl) at MGI has offered to help me out! Great customer service!
Corey |
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I don't know if you can get Kroil (penetrating oil) at the hardware store, I always bought it from Brownells. Stuff works freaking awesome on taper pins, must have IMO. Little Kroil bath & soak, two solid wacks and they are out.
As far as the computer goes I think you know what you need to do. Just start at the beginning (wall socket) and go down the line until you are sure what is/is not working. Those power strips have a fuse, it possible that fuse is just blown. |
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Tom (twl) referred me to Mack at MGI. I spoke with Mack and my barrel is on it's way to him. Mack said he should take a look at it the day he gets it. Mack also said I didn't have to pay return shipping and I had to tell him I was putting a $5 in the package for it anyways.
Very good customer service from Tom and MGI. In fact, outstanding. I'll post when I get the barrel back. Mack is going to thrown in new pins so I should be able to assemble it immediately. Corey PS I knew these pins were going to be a bear to get out just by looking at them. |
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I just got off the phone with Mack at MGI. My barrel is shipping back to me today.
The verdict? I did nothing wrong. Mack said that Sabre must have used a hydralic press to install the pins. If they get some that are slightly oversized, he suspects that they just use the proverbial "bigger hammer." So, in my case the pins were not removable using standard means. Mack wasn't able to confirm for me whether my pins were straight or taper as he didn't do the work, but I am very confident that they were straight. The one thing that I will say (in a premptive defense if they turn out to be tapered) is that they were virtually flush with the front sight assembly, which made it very difficult to measure them. They looked very different from standard taper pins. MGI was able to get the deformed pins out of there. The barrel and front sight assembly are not damaged. They are including new pins that Mack assured me I should be able to install and remove with the standard hammer and punch. Whew! [wipes brow] Now that there has been a successful conclusion to this, I almost wish that I had taken close up pics of pins before I sent it off to MGI. It was brutal, man! I'll try to post the other pics that I have tonight. Hopefully this project will finally be completed early next week. I'll keep everyone posted.... Corey |
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I'm glad it's getting worked out for you Corey! I guess I may need that three pound hammer afterall...
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Hmmm.... Sounds like this could be trouble for the guys wanting to free float Sabre barrels. I see a lot of interest in the 1-7 middie that they are coming out with, looks like Mongo's gonna be busy milling FSB's
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Well, this is interesting.
I've got my SD mid barrel, but I've been waiting to buy a Daniel FF. Now I'm curious if I will run into the same problem when the time comes. I'm glad to hear TWL was good on service. |
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I would not take this (nor am I intending it) as an indictment of Sabre barrels. From what I know and see in mine, they are the best thing going for midlengths (and maybe even carbine and rifle barrels). One thing has become apparent for me while messing with front sight assemblies over the past 6-9 months. Every front sight assembly and barrel are unique. Add the pins into the mix, and you can see differences depending on the size of the pins. I have not heard of this being any issue with any other Sabre barrels. I am at this point taking my experience as the exception rather than the rule. Corey |
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I certainly hope you are right. |
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Agreed. Yet if they are not using taper pins and are using interference fit straight pins that are pressed in, it's something to be concerned about if you plan on going freefloat or plan on a gas block or flip up FSB. We'll have to wait and see. I'm in no hurry since I'm broke finishing my house, so I can wait and see what happens. I'm also curious to see what Paul @ Bravo Company comes out with when Bravo Manufacturing starts up. |
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Me too. Hey wyv3rn, cool that was your 1911'th post |
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Sweet! How appropriate that it be you to notice and point it out! heheheh Been thinking about this more.. not going to be a happy camper if Kroil & solid whacks don't knock the pins out. I've done them before and have never had a problem. I hope they use taper pins, once you break them loose they are easy-out. Straight cylindrical pins are wrong. |
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My friend ordered a complete midlength upper from SD.
It looks like SD is using CMT upper receivers. They have the typical CMT ding in the left side and are painted instead of hard annodized. the paint started flaking off the case deflector after five rounds. |
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I'd really like to hear a range report from anyone shooting a Saber barrel... 1/7 or 1/9... I'm on the verge of ordering one.
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You sure about that? The three CMT flat top T marked uppers I ordered from GTS all appear to be painted. They all have the paint peeling in the inside wear points and on the case deflector. I say paint but it is probably more like a powder coating. Two of the uppers that came from GTS also have dents similar to the SD upper on the left side. |
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Positive. They don't powder coat either. It could be a batch that received bad anodizing or something. Denny (GTS) is simply awesome about making things right. If something is wrong, give him a call. Could you start a new thread on this in the AR Discussions forum (so we don't hijack Corey's thread)? I'm genuwinely interested in pics and seeing if anyone else has had the same problem. I've never heard of this with CMT uppers before. Was planning on purchasing one soon, from Denny (GTS) no less and would like to investigate this further, but not in Corey's thread. |
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