I have posted this info in multiple threads but here it is all in one.

I’m just a regular guy, no machinist and not much experience with any of this work.

After seeing the work done by QUIB in this thread
I decided to give this a try.

captrichardson has a great thread here. This is what I used as a guide.

This started as a new Rock River Arms Stripped lower.

I made a trip down to the local home improvement store and picked up a couple of flat files and some 220-grit sandpaper for an orbital sander.

I started with the mag fence removal and that was pretty easy just using the files and finishing with sandpaper. From here I re-profiled the front takedown pin area, pretty straightforward.  The back buffer tube area was next.  The upper 2/3 was done with a file, the lower 1/3 with a dremel.  The lower 1/3 was a pain to get the area to look correct. Lastly I re-contoured the area by the mag release button, again pretty simple.







I tried to fill the Safe/Fire markings with Bondo glazing putty but this was a mistake.  I learned the hard way that JB Weld works much better.

The last thing I did was to build up the rear buffer tube area as on the Rock River Arms lower I was using the stock hung well below the lower and I did not like how it looked.  I used a car buffer tube and plate as a guide to contour this area.



Here is a pic of the lower after the first refinishing attempt with Norrells Grey-Black.  You can see the Safe/Fire marks as the solvent I used to clean the lower removed most of the Bondo.  I went back and filled the markings with JB Weld.


I decided to use Norrells so I picked up a Badger 350 airbrush per the recommendation from Norrells.

The refinishing was a whole new adventure.  Stickman has some excellent posting on doing this correctly.  Take the time to read and understand the correct methods before refinishing.

Stickman Guide

A few things I learned:

Shake the hell out of the Norrells and continue to shake as you paint.

Preheating the parts makes a difference.

Don’t forget to paint the trigger guard to match.

Technique can make all the difference with your airbrush skills.  Practice on cardboard before you try your lower.

I used drill bits, turning them with my fingers, to clean out the take down pin holes and the hammer/trigger pin holes before baking the Norrells.

Here is the lower with the final finish.



Each day we get a little closer to completion, time to start on the upper.

Great job.

great job, nice write up and pics. Thanks !


Mike

Very nice.

Elvis

Great Job.

Good job!

I had forgotten about the old thread you linked to; too bad the photo links are broken, as that was an excellent resource.
You inspired me to redo that entire thread, with all the same photos. Not intending to upstage your good work here, I'll put that thread up again, too.

Quoted: Good job! I had forgotten about the old thread you linked to; too bad the photo links are broken, as that was an excellent resource. You inspired me to redo that entire thread, with all the same photos. Not intending to upstage your good work here, I'll put that thread up again, too.

Updated the captrichardson thread link to point to the updated thread by fitter.

Awesome work indeed.

I want to do a slick side upper on a partial fence lower myself.

Something that I have been wondering however is if any measurements or dimensions info exists regarding making these mods, or if most just do it "freehand"?

Quoted: Awesome work indeed. I want to do a slick side upper on a partial fence lower myself. Something that I have been wondering however is if any measurements or dimensions info exists regarding making these mods, or if most just do it "freehand"?

The captrichardson thread has very good pictures.  I have not seen any actual measurements however I did use a SP1 lower as a guide for mine.

It's not perfect but for my first attempt I'm happy.

Next I will refinish the upper and then start assembling.

Quoted: Quoted: Good job! I had forgotten about the old thread you linked to; too bad the photo links are broken, as that was an excellent resource. You inspired me to redo that entire thread, with all the same photos. Not intending to upstage your good work here, I'll put that thread up again, too. Updated the captrichardson thread link to point to the updated thread by fitter.

I added a link to this thread in the redux thread, as well.  

Quoted: Quoted: Awesome work indeed. I want to do a slick side upper on a partial fence lower myself. Something that I have been wondering however is if any measurements or dimensions info exists regarding making these mods, or if most just do it "freehand"? To prevent removing too much material, and maintain a perfect radius, I clamped a large area washer to the outside of the receiver utilizing the mag release button hole in the receiver. The washer had the same radius as the opposite side of the receiver and served as a guide to keep things perfect during the filing and shaping.

Good idea. I also liked your idea of using the aluminum tape to protect the surrounding areas. Those photos would be worth reposting for the forum's benefit.

ar15inmn, what dremmel head did you use for the rear buffer tube area?

Quoted: ar15inmn, what dremmel head did you use for the rear buffer tube area?

9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter

and this

120-Grit Sanding Bands

It might just be me, cause Im not exactly sure what a partial fence rear looks like, but what are you doing to the rear exactly???

Nevermind..... Im reading fitters thread now....

Quoted: Quoted: To prevent removing too much material, and maintain a perfect radius, I clamped a large area washer to the outside of the receiver utilizing the mag release button hole. The washer had the same radius as the opposite side of the receiver and served as a guide to keep things perfect during the filing and shaping. ETA: Added pic. www.hunt101.com/img/430323-big.jpg I don't understand how the washer helped.  Wouldn't it get in the way of removing the fence around the magazine release?

check out the radius in the raised area beneath the mag raleased button hole.
The washer's radius is a guide that one would copy when relieving material in that area.

 Did I miss it...did you build up the rear of the receiver with JB weld?

Yes, I decided to build it up some.  It’s not uncommon for the stocks to sit below but I figured as long as I was this far why not.

Quoted: Quoted: ar15inmn, what dremmel head did you use for the rear buffer tube area? 9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter and this 120-Grit Sanding Bands

Could you give us a rundown on what you used where?

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: ar15inmn, what dremmel head did you use for the rear buffer tube area? 9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter and this 120-Grit Sanding Bands Could you give us a rundown on what you used where?

Most of the work was done with flat files and sandpaper.

Here is where I used the dremel.

Great work guys! Now you've got me so hot and bothered to do this I might have to get a second lower...

Here is the completed lower.  8-29-06

Beautiful! Where did you get the rounded head pivot pins?

Quoted: Beautiful! Where did you get the rounded head pivot pins?

Reproductions made by one of the members here on the board.

Quoted: Quoted: Beautiful! Where did you get the rounded head pivot pins? Reproductions made by one of the members here on the board.

And whom may that be? I'd like a set for my slick side clone.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Beautiful! Where did you get the rounded head pivot pins? Reproductions made by one of the members here on the board. And whom may that be? I'd like a set for my slick side clone.

That would be me.  i made a couple up for myself and had a few left over.  i had original pins and i drilled new selectors and pins to match.  to do several of them i have to source a supplier that does not put the notch on the selector.  i had a couple in my parts bin that i used for this project.  front and rear pins are no problem, but the selectors are what are needed.  i used all carbide tooling in a lathe to cut them.  regular bits just burned up.

Quoted: That would be me.  i made a couple up for myself and had a few left over.  i had original pins and i drilled new selectors and pins to match.  to do several of them i have to source a supplier that does not put the notch on the selector.  i had a couple in my parts bin that i used for this project.  front and rear pins are no problem, but the selectors are what are needed.  i used all carbide tooling in a lathe to cut them.  regular bits just burned up.

Both of the Olympic Arms selectors I have don't have the notch on the right side.
Just a thought.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Beautiful! Where did you get the rounded head pivot pins? Reproductions made by one of the members here on the board. And whom may that be? I'd like a set for my slick side clone. That would be me.  i made a couple up for myself and had a few left over.  i had original pins and i drilled new selectors and pins to match.  to do several of them i have to source a supplier that does not put the notch on the selector.  i had a couple in my parts bin that i used for this project.  front and rear pins are no problem, but the selectors are what are needed.  i used all carbide tooling in a lathe to cut them.  regular bits just burned up.

Del-Ton does not have the notch in their selectors. How much are you charging to do this?

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Beautiful! Where did you get the rounded head pivot pins? Reproductions made by one of the members here on the board. And whom may that be? I'd like a set for my slick side clone. That would be me.  i made a couple up for myself and had a few left over.  i had original pins and i drilled new selectors and pins to match.  to do several of them i have to source a supplier that does not put the notch on the selector.  i had a couple in my parts bin that i used for this project.  front and rear pins are no problem, but the selectors are what are needed.  i used all carbide tooling in a lathe to cut them.  regular bits just burned up.

Looks awesome! Nice work.

Finished Pics.

Quoted: Quoted: That would be me.  i made a couple up for myself and had a few left over.  i had original pins and i drilled new selectors and pins to match.  to do several of them i have to source a supplier that does not put the notch on the selector.  i had a couple in my parts bin that i used for this project.  front and rear pins are no problem, but the selectors are what are needed.  i used all carbide tooling in a lathe to cut them.  regular bits just burned up. Both of the Olympic Arms selectors I have don't have the notch on the right side. Just a thought.

DPMS safeties are also notchless.

The finished rifle looks fantastic.  I'm sure that you are very proud of the work.

On another note, I didn't realize that DPMS selectors had no notch on the right side.  I was actually considering welding and grinding on a standard A2 style notch.  That should save some time and effort.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: That would be me.  i made a couple up for myself and had a few left over.  i had original pins and i drilled new selectors and pins to match.  to do several of them i have to source a supplier that does not put the notch on the selector.  i had a couple in my parts bin that i used for this project.  front and rear pins are no problem, but the selectors are what are needed.  i used all carbide tooling in a lathe to cut them.  regular bits just burned up. Both of the Olympic Arms selectors I have don't have the notch on the right side. Just a thought. DPMS safeties are also notchless.

Current production DPMS selectors do have the notch, I have emailed Dustin asking him to check for some that do not.  I had a few here from a year or so back that were smooth.

Dang, those pins and selector look awsome!  All kidding aside you did a wonderfull build!  im glad i could help out on it.  

ar15inmn, I will be needing your address so I can ship you my retro and you can make it look like yours.  That is great looking!!

The last 3 or 4 LPK's I got from DPMS had a very light line (notch) on the safety which could be easily sanded off.  Gun shows are also an excellent place to find non-notched safeties and other older grayish colored parts.

That rifle looks awesome.

Is it possible to make a slabside (w/no fence at all) lower this way?

You guys are braver than I am.  

Great work.    

Do my eyes deceive me, or have you used JB Weld to fill in the area behind the reinforcement ring to give it a more correct profile since you've last showed us pics?

Schweeeet!!!!

That turned out really nice! Congrats!

Quoted: Is it possible to make a slabside (w/no fence at all) lower this way?

The upper fence holds the spring/detent for the front takedown pin.

There is a small hole two piece srcrew that can be used if you want to make an early 601 style retro.

Quoted: Do my eyes deceive me, or have you used JB Weld to fill in the area behind the reinforcement ring to give it a more correct profile since you've last showed us pics?

Yes, I have modified and reapplied the Norrells a few times now.  I'm going to leave this one alone and start another.

The JB Weld works great and is easily ground down.

Thanks for all the compliments.

I need to refine my finishing skills.  Getting the Norrells to lay down smooth was a challenge.

That is one sweet rifle, great job! I recently bought a new RRA lower and can't bring myself to grind on it, it's just too nice of a lower. So I decided to mount my Colt slab side upper to my 1989 Colt Hbar match grade lower, it for some reason has the exact look of the full slab side lowers except for the large hole front pin. Does anyone know why Colt made a retro slab side lower and used it on a modern rifle and called it an A2 match grade sporter? That's the other minor draw back it does say sporter on the left side of the mag well. It's as close as I'm going to get with out either chopping up the new RRA lower or filling in some of the writing on the pre ban Colt lower which I have no intentions of doing, it's just has too much value to alter.