Well, the long awaited Mk II 45 AR is now complete (sorry, no pics as of yet).

A review of the components:
* Cavalry Arms Cav-15 MkII lower (black)  $165 (2004 AR.com buy)
* Hahn Precision Cav-15 Mk II Grease Gun magazine adapter $90 (I think)
* Olympic Arms "no ban" style 45 ACP upper $577
* Slash's "custom" steel (heavy) CAR buffer (8.3oz if I recall) $(forgot)
* WWII Grease Gun mags $10.00

*Lucas Gun oil


First of all, the buffer is NOT the 45 ACP buffer that is being sold.  This was Slash's first prototype and it is CAR dimentioned...so it's a tad bit lighter then the Mk II buffer for 45 upper use he's selling.  Yes Slash, I FINALLY used it!

As w/ most Cav lowers, the pins were tight.  Following what has been posted in the past, I "reamed" out the take down hole on the Oly upper to complete assembly.  

The Hahn GG block fit w/ no problems.

The GG mags, well, I didn't take them apart to clean, so I just sprayed them down w/ silicon and let it dry....just in case.

After working the take down hole, and all parts assembled, the bolt travel was smooth w/out any hang ups (and that was unoiled).  Locking a mag in place was easy, loaded or unloaded.  Removing a loaded mag did require (at times) pushing the mag up while hitting the latch.

Loading the mags were a dog.  Fortunatley, I had this little thumb pusher thing I received from a buddy.  Made loading MUCH easier, even up to the 30 round MAX.

Ammo was the 100 pack Walmart Winchester stuff, 230gr.  About 150 round fired, NOT ONE misfeed, jam or ANY problem.  Very happy.  Rapid fire was not tried (some people were out there plinking).

Accuracy, well, no targts, but nice plastic bottle jumping.

Over all, I am VERY Happy!!!  A project well worth waiting for!  If you ask me how much I spent, I forgot how much the buff was....of the parts I do know, its' $842.00, so I'm sure it's in the range of $900-1K.

Quoted: As w/ most Cav lowers, the pins were tight.  Following what has been posted in the past, I "reamed" out the take down hole on the Oly upper to complete assembly.

Can you be a little more specific on that part? I have the same lower and the fit between it and a Cav Arms .223 upper has the pins tight enough that they're a significant pain in the ass to get out without some sort of a screwdriver or other tool.

Quoted: Quoted: As w/ most Cav lowers, the pins were tight.  Following what has been posted in the past, I "reamed" out the take down hole on the Oly upper to complete assembly.   Can you be a little more specific on that part? I have the same lower and the fit between it and a Cav Arms .223 upper has the pins tight enough that they're a significant pain in the ass to get out without some sort of a screwdriver or other tool.

You can do one of two things.  Go to a machine shop tool supplier and look for a 1/4" reamer.  Second, you just go find a small round file (just small enough to fit into the takedown hole) and start filing away material.....

More details-
I'm assuming you have the removalbe pins.  Leave the pivot pin in (front) and take out the takedown pin.  Shine a light behind the hole and look to see how and where the holes are mis-aligned.  This will give you an idea on "where" the material has to be removed.  Take off the upper and file away.  The hardest thing to get through will be the anodizing.  After that, it's a bit easier.

I cant' say how much material I removed.  When looking at the hole from the ejection port side, I say it would be the 7 o'clock position to the 9 is where removed the most material.  Oh, I did run the file in the pivot pin hole...but not to remove material, just to "smooth" the anodizing in case there was a bur or something.

Hope this helps....

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: As w/ most Cav lowers, the pins were tight.  Following what has been posted in the past, I "reamed" out the take down hole on the Oly upper to complete assembly.   Can you be a little more specific on that part? I have the same lower and the fit between it and a Cav Arms .223 upper has the pins tight enough that they're a significant pain in the ass to get out without some sort of a screwdriver or other tool. You can do one of two things.  Go to a machine shop tool supplier and look for a 1/4" reamer.  Second, you just go find a small round file (just small enough to fit into the takedown hole) and start filing away material..... More details- I'm assuming you have the removalbe pins.  Leave the pivot pin in (front) and take out the takedown pin.  Shine a light behind the hole and look to see how and where the holes are mis-aligned.  This will give you an idea on "where" the material has to be removed.  Take off the upper and file away.  The hardest thing to get through will be the anodizing.  After that, it's a bit easier. I cant' say how much material I removed.  When looking at the hole from the ejection port side, I say it would be the 7 o'clock position to the 9 is where removed the most material.  Oh, I did run the file in the pivot pin hole...but not to remove material, just to "smooth" the anodizing in case there was a bur or something. Hope this helps....

Immensely....

The tight upper and lower fitment is a positive benifit of the plastic lower.  Whenever there are loose components they have the oppertunity to impact each other becoming looser with time.  Nobody cares for a sloppy fit between upper and lower receiver, it just feels bad.  The plastic properties of the lower allow for a tight fit to just about any upper reciever.....it self compensates providing for a 'tight' feeling rifle.  

Inconvience of pin removal is a minor issue.  So if you feel you must have pins that readily come out, take your time and remove as little material as possible.

Kaliburz you SOB, get pics up ASAP!

Quoted: Kaliburz you SOB, get pics up ASAP!

Hold on.....(I need more people to @itch for pics first)

Quoted: The tight upper and lower fitment is a positive benifit of the plastic lower.  Whenever there are loose components they have the oppertunity to impact each other becoming looser with time.  Nobody cares for a sloppy fit between upper and lower receiver, it just feels bad.  The plastic properties of the lower allow for a tight fit to just about any upper reciever.....it self compensates providing for a 'tight' feeling rifle.   Inconvience of pin removal is a minor issue.  So if you feel you must have pins that readily come out, take your time and remove as little material as possible.

Oh, it's still tight.  I didn't do that much modifing.....  I don't mind tight....just don't like mis-aligned.  Guess the toleraces added up.....


Edit-

Oh, I forgot to add-

A BIG THANKS to Cavalry Arms, Hahn Precision, & "Slash" for making this possible!

(Okay, maybe Oly should be mentioned too....)

I was going to post some pics, but Yahoo is having probs uploading...... will have to try my Hunt photo files later......


 

Okay pics above /\

Oh, if people would like, they can link the threads about the said parts I mentioned to this thread (ie the Hahn block, Slash's heavy buffer)

Here's a shot with a chopped 15 round magazine for those wondering how they look.

I forgot to mention, that a few weeks ago, I tried this at a local range w/ steel gongs.  I was aiming at the 205 yard target and wasn't having much luck.  I was close, but just couldn't get it right....but I wasn't using the normal ammo I prefer.  I tried the UMC yellow box stuff and it wasn't quite what I expected compared to the winchester.  I guess w/ it being a windy day didn't help either.....

Quoted: Video shooting the .45 full auto after the subgun match last week. www.cavalryarms.com/MKII45.wmv

Damn I want one.   The 86 MG ban really sucks

Quoted: Video shooting the .45 full auto after the subgun match last week. www.cavalryarms.com/MKII45.wmv

mmmmmm......

Quoted: It's about time!

I'm slow!