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Posted: 7/8/2004 11:33:47 AM EDT
[#1]
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=16&t=177728
There are others, but this is the best one - you should find what you're looking for somewhere in there... |
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Posted: 7/8/2004 12:39:32 PM EDT
[#2]
Have gone thru about 500 rds of 55gr FMJ so far.
It cycles my DPMS A2 1x9 HBAR OK. As to accuracy, don't count on it to be so, and you won't be disappointed. OK if you are shooting at small beachballs at 100 yds, though. |
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Posted: 7/8/2004 1:07:54 PM EDT
[#3]
I've put about 500-rds through a pieced together 20" HBAR. I'm a little surprised that I haven't encountered any malfunctions yet, though. Accuracy has been about 4-moa with iron sights/red-dot.
So far, it's performed a lot better than the old Wolf I've tried. As cheap as it is I'll definately be buying more. |
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Posted: 7/8/2004 1:09:16 PM EDT
[#4]
goes bang everytime in my bushy.
good plinking ammo TXL |
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Posted: 7/8/2004 4:02:58 PM EDT
[#5]
+1 |
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Posted: 7/8/2004 5:22:56 PM EDT
[#6]
Soot/blow back trash from a muzzle can will cause the cases to stick.
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Posted: 7/8/2004 6:39:52 PM EDT
[#7]
I finally broke down and bought a 500 round can from Sportsmans Guide. It is packed in
a sealed can that could survive WWIII and sells for $55. Frankly, I was hesitant to run Wolf 223 thru my AR-15s but was pleasantly suprised. This new polymer cased ammo ran flawless and was reasonably clean. The accuracy was nothing to write home about but----this is practice ammo! After running most of the case thru my pre-ban Colts and my Bushmaster I'm convinced. It also functioned fine in my old truck gun-a Mini-14 Ranch Rifle. I think its a great alternative to chasing down surplus ammo for practice purposes. Just don't except too much out of it and it will do fine. Just my opinion. |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 5:27:22 AM EDT
[#8]
sportsmans guide says a green lacquer coating is on the ammo...is that actually polymer?
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Posted: 7/9/2004 5:46:11 AM EDT
[#9]
+2 |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 7:17:52 AM EDT
[#10]
IIRC, that's the description they have listed for the 20-rd boxes. If you click on the 500-rd tins it should be listed as having polymer coating. SG Wolf poly-coated |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 11:09:16 AM EDT
[#11]
The new coating is not as rust resistant as the old laquer. You get this new stuff wet and it will rust right up on you. |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 11:24:46 AM EDT
[#12]
Well, the old green-laquer stuff runs fine in *my* AR, I have heard of folks with fancier guns having trouble with it... I'd never seen the poly stuff untill I ran out of 7.62x39, my 'replacement' order is grey, not green... Oh well, makes no diff in my experience, it goes bang just fine... |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 11:31:58 AM EDT
[#13]
+3 |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 11:36:17 AM EDT
[#14]
+4 |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 12:27:29 PM EDT
[#15]
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Posted: 7/9/2004 12:52:58 PM EDT
[#16]
I noticed this too - but I didn't need to get the stuff wet. I left a mag loaded with the polymer Wolf in the basement for a week, and when I examined it a week later, the case of the top round showed rust speckling all over. Some Russian 7.62x39 with the traditional green laquered cases I kept in the same conditions were unchanged. It seems like the polymer cases are less tolerant of humid air than the older laquered type. |
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Posted: 7/9/2004 1:14:21 PM EDT
[#17]
+5.99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 I ran through 1K at bulletfest, and it worked fine. |
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Posted: 7/10/2004 12:58:41 PM EDT
[#18]
+6 320 rounds of new and old 55gr HP, and went bang all but once. And that was due to crap magazine. I recommend it. |
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Posted: 7/10/2004 1:20:48 PM EDT
[#19]
ceil(5.99999999999999999999)+1 +7 This stuff is the same as the old Wolf. Works great. Too damn many parrots in this world. |
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Posted: 7/10/2004 2:16:08 PM EDT
[#20]
+8.33333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 once my rifle was broken in that is. |
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Posted: 7/10/2004 2:29:57 PM EDT
[#21]
 Of all people, I would have expected you to comprehend the concept of significant digits. 
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Posted: 7/10/2004 5:21:02 PM EDT
[#22]
Why does everybody badmouth Wolf? Other than wearing out an extractor early what could happen?
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Posted: 7/10/2004 6:06:31 PM EDT
[#23]
I have a 20" A1 upper that is fed nothing but a heavy diet of Wolf. I dont run it thru my others, but I got a super deal on this upper so I bought it just for Wolf ammo.
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Posted: 7/10/2004 6:16:33 PM EDT
[#24]
why buy inaaccurate ammo??? even for plinking,,,,, ain't teh point to get them where YOU want THEM to go???
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Posted: 7/10/2004 6:19:28 PM EDT
[#25]
Current and polymer especially, Wolf is great ammo. Laquer (esp.) and first batch or two of polymer would be about as accurate as shooting blindly with normal ammo (I could cover an entire silhouette at 100 yds with laquer .223 then get 1.5" groups with milsurp [same gun]). The red sealant would get blown all over the place, plus the powder burned much dirtier. In AR's especially, this caused lots of problems and jamming. The polymer ammo after the first lot or two (which IIRC were screwy) burns cleaner, too [not as clean as LC/IMI, but still cleaner than old wolf]. The red sealant didn't even cause many problems in itself, it's just a PITA to clean. Steel cases causing considerable damage is an incorrect assumption. It may mean well, but is incorrect. The steel is very mild, and the coatings are very soft. If your gun won't scratch that coating, why be worried about the steel wearing anything? Honestly, I don't know why Wolf is looked down upon so. It's good plinking ammo. Yeah, it won't fragment or hit the bullseye as well as the other stuff, but that's why it's plinking ammo. I guess it's because it's Russian ammo, versus good ol' Lake City (or IMI for that matter). |
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Posted: 7/10/2004 6:38:25 PM EDT
[#26]
I repeatedly hit a 8" helium tank at 300 yards with a EoTech scoped M4 and Wolf (or Barnaul - don't remember - it was lacquered though). That's plenty accurate for me. I wouldn't shoot highpower matches with it, but for plinking? Be serious... |
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Posted: 7/10/2004 7:41:44 PM EDT
[#27]
I can't see how the steel would wear out the extractors quickly. Just think about it... how could it? There's no impact, so that's out... deformation? Brass or otherwise, nothing better deform on extraction.. Abrasion? It's coated in laquer, and I know for sure it's still there on the rims when my "brass" ejects.
Lotta parroting and unqualified opinions. |
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Posted: 7/11/2004 6:55:23 AM EDT
[#28]
I bought 500rds of the new Wolf polymer stuff at a show several weeks back and had one stick in the chamber of my rifle. This was after approximately 500rds of mixed Q3131A, XM193, & Wolf magdumping. I was also testing the reliability of the pre-release MagPul followers and was dumping pretty much all day. I shot the last 280rds of the Wolf yesterday without any isues.
For me, the jury's still out a little but I will pick up another case for plinking and keep my eye on it now that my "test" is done. |
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Posted: 7/11/2004 7:21:29 AM EDT
[#29]
It's not completely unresonable to suppose that there is more extractor wear with a steel case. There certainly is a very significant momentum transfer as the the extractor accelerates the case rim backwards. The pliability of the case material determines the duration of the initial momentum transfer, which in turn determines the peak force felt by the participants (the rim and the ejector). I would guess that the extractor sees a higher peak force with a steel case compared to brass. |
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Posted: 7/11/2004 10:53:44 AM EDT
[#30]
I can't see that the impulse difference could be that great. I've never seen extractor marks as the result of pressure on the inside of the rim (with brass), and even if the deformation is mostly temporary, you'd think there'd be some remanent ater firing. Also, any leverage on the extractor is buffered by the extractor spring. (eg extractor slips)
The other thing I think to consider would be that the rim and extractor *should* be a coupled system, so it's not as violent of a energy transfer. |
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Posted: 7/11/2004 3:22:09 PM EDT
[#31]
Same here. How'd you handle it with the AR? cleaning rod? I had that on an AK, so I just let the extractor lock onto it and hit the charging handle. Edit: I wonder how that happens... The shell looked perfectly normal after I extracted it. |
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Posted: 7/11/2004 5:50:21 PM EDT
[#32]
I AGREE THAT IT IS PROBABLY NOT A LARGE EFFECT. IT PROBABLY SHORTENS THE EXTRACTOR LIFE SOME, BUT IT'S HARD TO IMAGINE THAT SHOOTING WOLF REQUIRES FREQUENT EXTRACTOR REPLACEMENT.
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Posted: 7/12/2004 3:59:50 AM EDT
[#33]
Yeah, I had to knock it out with a cleaning rod. The extractor had ripped the rim during the extraction cycle and wasn't able to get a grip on it after that. |
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