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Posted: 12/31/2004 10:19:37 AM EDT
[#1]
Well thanks, I really like that color better then the matte stuff. Am considering redoing my A2 in this color. Might ad a touch of matte to the semigloss to tone done the sheen a bit though. |
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Posted: 12/31/2004 10:25:20 AM EDT
[#2]
Very nice, indeed. WOW!
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Posted: 12/31/2004 10:35:26 AM EDT
[#3]
I too have been stung by the refinish bug..hell i dont even have my upper yet for my build and i already have an 8oz btl of OD
 I dont want to get into detail because i have a certain combination in mind and it will kill me to see someone else with it I do have one concern...the 8oz bottle of Norrels i just got out of my mailbox seems rather runny/watery..ive given it a good shaking to get all of it mixed well ,just looks thin  Probably nothing |
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Posted: 12/31/2004 10:56:33 AM EDT
[#4]
It is thin, make sure you shake it well and don't worry.
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Posted: 12/31/2004 11:04:32 AM EDT
[#5]
Thanks Stickman
Brand spankin new toaster oven at wal-fart for ($10) airbrush kit ($20) gloves (free) the whole deal. I think im set
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Posted: 12/31/2004 11:34:13 AM EDT
[#6]
I was thinking about making a cooker for an entire rifle out of galvanized steel air ducting. I am not sure exactly what I want to use, but I figure it could be made pretty cheaply and easily. It would be able to cook a 20" rifle in a very small space in the garage.
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Posted: 1/8/2005 8:01:16 PM EDT
[#7]
tag
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Posted: 1/11/2005 7:49:11 AM EDT
[#8]
Care to elaborate? |
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Posted: 1/11/2005 8:42:18 AM EDT
[#9]
Takes more coats to get a even finish, so takes longer. |
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Posted: 1/11/2005 11:31:51 PM EDT
[#10]
sovereign, Have you seen something different with the finishes? |
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Posted: 1/12/2005 6:24:57 AM EDT
[#11]
I have located an old gym locker that I am turning into a stand up oven,got the idea from the norrell website,I will post pics when it is done. |
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Posted: 1/12/2005 8:42:07 AM EDT
[#12]
I just found this thread and it is great. I have a question about the color of the grey Colts:
Were all the metal pieces grey or just the aluminum items-upper, lower, CH, delta and FSB with the steel pieces being darker (black?)? What I'm asking is if you were going to try to duplicate the look of a grey Colt, would you do all the aluminum in the colt grey, leave the furniture black and use some darker color for the barrel and FS? If so, what would you use for the steel items? TIA, Ed |
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Posted: 1/12/2005 9:17:24 AM EDT
[#13]
It would depend on what year and model I was trying to copy. I usually just do the receivers, and make the rest matte black. |
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Posted: 1/13/2005 9:18:31 AM EDT
[#14]
I have only used KG GunKote. No experience with the Norrell's. I spray a very light coat so I have no idea if it takes a long time to apply. I was under the impression that the two products were virtually identical. Apparently, Ekie has found that this is not the case in practical application. |
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Posted: 1/13/2005 9:35:56 AM EDT
[#15]
It must be. The M16 upper kit I just got from shootnstuff in EE is the early type without a trapdoor though it has a birdcage flashsuppressor. But the upper and barrel assembly is Colt dark gray, in fact, it's a bit darker than the large hole Sporter Match HBAR lower it's going on. But the handguard slip ring is a semi-gloss black and the ejection port cover is a light gray. |
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Posted: 1/13/2005 9:49:40 AM EDT
[#16]
Interesting, do you have any pieces refinsihed in Colt Gray to hold up and check for color match, or do you plan to just do the entire piece?
If it were me, I would refinish the entire thing, and refinish the receivers and barrel spraying them in colt gray. I understand that some people want to keep an "original" look, but to me that makes refinishing pointless. To each their own, as long as the owner is happy that is all that matters! Are you going to do before and after pics? |
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Posted: 1/13/2005 10:18:40 AM EDT
[#17]
So far of the commercially available thermal setting gun finishes I have tried (am not aware of any others):
Norrell's Gun-Kote Brownell's Baking Lacquer Brownell's Teflon/Moly The Brownell's baking lacquer leaves a very thick finish, and is quite like the original "stoving" found on FMAP, FN, BSA, IMBEL, Enfield, and Lithgow FAL type rifles. I like the stuff when doing up a FAL, would not use it on anything else though. It is difficult to work with, you have to thin it, leaves a thick finish, and it is gooey stuff. The Brownell's Teflon/Moly is nasty, and leaves a finish that looks like the wife's frying pan. Forget about it. Norrell's and Gun-Kote are both easy to work with, and leaves a very tough, chemical resistant thin finish. The semigloss stuff has weird reflective qualities, unlike any factory finish I have seen on a military small arm. The matte stuff tend to leave a rough feeling finish, I like to mix semigloss and matte 50/50 or so. The only difference I have found between Norrell's and Gun-Kote is that what can be done with two coats of Norrell's take four to eight coats of Gun-Kote. So takes me longer to do something in Gun-Kote, and uses significantly more product. |
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Posted: 1/13/2005 11:12:24 AM EDT
[#18]
Do you do the barrels on your Colts even if the parking is fine? Or only if they really need refinishing? |
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Posted: 1/13/2005 7:10:50 PM EDT
[#19]
just curious how the moly finish is holding up on your guns with regards to toughness or durability???
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Posted: 1/13/2005 10:58:18 PM EDT
[#20]
I like to do them regardless of how they look. The barrel is protected, and rust will never be an issue. |
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Posted: 1/13/2005 11:00:42 PM EDT
[#21]
Pretty well, I've been really abusing one certain carbine, and I keep expecting the barrel to show signs of wear or abuse, but so far it just isn't really happening. I am now running a Norrells finished lower on my duty carbine, so the abuse should really be starting... I don't consider Norrells a miracle cure all, but it does hold up quite nice for me. |
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Posted: 1/14/2005 3:50:54 AM EDT
[#22]
Has anyone coated their carbine buffer tube? how does it hold up?
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Posted: 1/14/2005 5:21:35 AM EDT
[#23]
glad to hear it stickman...
i'm now also running it on my duty carbine so time will tell. what i really like is the ability to refinish whenver it gets dinged up.... i'll let ya know how mine hangs in there..... 
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Posted: 1/14/2005 8:31:14 AM EDT
[#24]
***
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Posted: 1/14/2005 9:44:12 AM EDT
[#25]
I did on one or two of them, I can't recall anything out of the ordinary with them. I don't really look at that as a high wear point with most carbines, but I guess a few of mine are tighter than the others. |
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Posted: 2/12/2005 5:05:02 AM EDT
[#26]
anybody tried one of these for an airbrush compressor???
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34844 |
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Posted: 2/12/2005 5:21:33 AM EDT
[#27]
I would suggest somehting with a tank. It can then be used for other things, like light spray painting, brad nailing, light sand blasting, etc. I have 2 compressors, one I keep in my garage that I use for everything from filling tires to nailing. Then, I have a light weight like this one for the light duties such as putting up trim in the house and light paint work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/90100-90199/90168.gif Harbor Freight Tank 2 |
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Posted: 2/12/2005 8:31:02 AM EDT
[#28]
The above looks like what I'm now using.
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Posted: 2/12/2005 11:24:38 AM EDT
[#29]
Since we've started talking compressors now...
The product description in Burnsome-'s link shows a pressure and volume of 30psi and 2 cfm. I take it this is the standard pressure and volume that air brushes operate at? I was looking at my automotive airtank, about 2½-3 gallon for airing up tires, etc. and started thinking.  If I could regulate the pressure and flow down to ??? I could have a lot of cheap air to spray with.Anybody done anything like this? |
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Posted: 2/12/2005 1:04:02 PM EDT
[#30]
You shoud be able to reguate it. I havent seen a compressor yet that wont regulate down...
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Posted: 2/12/2005 1:21:46 PM EDT
[#31]
Tagged!
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Posted: 2/12/2005 6:09:04 PM EDT
[#32]
good idea there dtrosch....do you have a regulator on yours to keep the psi down to air brush levels?....tell us more...
yeah Bumblebee_Bob....lets talk compressors for a while here....i need a good setup.... i suppose a regularor could be added to a regular shop type compressor......here's one.... air regulator... i already have a general purpose compressor that i suppose could be regulated down to the proper pressure with one of those.........should work....? however....was thinking about the following for a "dedicated" moly coating system..... air brush compressor... combine it with one of these airbrush kits.... airbrush kit... anybody got a setup like that...? |
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Posted: 2/12/2005 6:12:00 PM EDT
[#33]
I'm getting ready to do a lower with Norrel's. You guys that have done them, do you worry about getting Norrel's on the internals (hammer, springs etc), do you just tape off this area or not worry about it?
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Posted: 2/12/2005 6:19:19 PM EDT
[#34]
M4bangr - i wouldnt worry about those areas....might wait for Stickman and others to chime in, but careful direction of your airbrush should eliminate too much Norrel's getting on them....
since we're talking "equupment"....anybody use one of these to clean up gun parts before dong the Norrel's two-step? blast cabinet... |
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Posted: 2/12/2005 7:47:51 PM EDT
[#35]
I purchased that blast cabinet in the link and took it back the next day and bought the next one or two up. The one in the link is crap. When I unpacked mine, i noticed that it had two LEFT gloves installed. And I read in the instructions that you can't use harsh abrasives like Aluminum Oxide. Well...that kinda defeats the purpose, as Norrell says to use Aluminum Oxide. You get what you pay for, and truthfully, the Cabinet in the link isn't worth it IMHO.
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Posted: 2/13/2005 5:04:59 AM EDT
[#36]
thanks CAR-15.....good advice sir....
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Posted: 2/13/2005 5:54:40 AM EDT
[#37]
I have a Master Elite Hush series, and a cheapie I got at Target. Both regulate the outgoing air pressure via a knob next to one of the two dials. I am no expert on compressors, but I would guess that if one you are looking at has two dials, one will be tank pressure, and one will be outgoing pressure.
Harbor freight often has their product manuals on line as well. The manual for this particular compressor is here in pdf Man On page 11, it mentions the regulator as part # 6, and states: "6. Tool Pressure Regulator (part #6): The Tool Pressure Regulator allows you to adjust the level of air pressure (0 to 120 PSI) being supplied to the pneumatic tool being used. Turn the Tool Pressure Regulator clockwise to increase the level of air pressure to the pneumatic tool, and counterclockwise to decrease the level of air pressure. WARNING! Never exceed the maximum working air pressure capacity of the pneumatic tool. (See Figure E.)" This is how it works on both my expensive compressor ($250) and my Target special ($65 on sale). ( I bought the Target one because the big one is to heavy and akward to to haul around the house / up and down stairs without banging into something.) Essentially, you just spin the dial up to the max pressure on the tank (100+ psi) or down to the tool's requirements (down to 0 psi, theoretically). The CFM is really a factor of how much air can pass through your compressor ina period of time. Often for air tool specs, this is the max need for wide open use. I have found that I often work a little then look at how I am doing. This a) keeps me from russhing too much and making a mistake, and b) give the compressor a chance to catch up if it needs to. (More often than not it keeps right up with me just fine.) I am by no means an expert on air tools or compressors, but have found I use mine way more than I ever thought I would. I have become the guy the neighbors come to when they need to sand blast, paint, or get off a stuck lugnut. -Dave |
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Posted: 2/13/2005 9:31:33 AM EDT
[#38]
I have had people request that the internals be done in a lighter color (gray), so as to make it easier to clean, and simply for the "cool" factor. I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes, but it certainly doesn't hurt anything. |
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Posted: 2/13/2005 12:17:59 PM EDT
[#39]
Thanks for the reply, I guess I won't worry about it.
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Posted: 2/13/2005 6:49:40 PM EDT
[#40]
Great info, I've been looking into this myself. Got a silly question, but is it safe to bake this stuff in a gas oven?
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Posted: 2/13/2005 7:06:16 PM EDT
[#41]
Follow stickman's advice in his post on Pre-Ban.com. PARTICULARLY WITH REGARD TO THE OVEN THERMOMETER. I had to set my electric oven on 325 to get an even 300. The results were beyond what I could have imagined possible for a first attempt. Only thing I would add is to place a lint free rag under any part of the weapon that might touch the inside of the oven. Sometimes the contact points are "slightly" different from the rest - been my experience, anyway. The rag won't catch fire as long as it doesn't come in contact with the heating element - again, been my experience.
They have just come out with a new color - glossy black. Supposed to look like a gun that has been blued a black color and has a thin coat of oil on it. I have a bottle on order and am going to refinsh a S&W Model 36 next week when it gets here. Have her stripped to the bare metal and can't wait to get at it.  HEY STICKMAN:: 
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Posted: 2/13/2005 10:46:37 PM EDT
[#42]
gajones2,
It makes me very happy to hear of people having results like you describe, all the time put into writing the article is paid for in full when I hear happy stories. Thankyou for sharing them. One of the easiest things to do it to hang your items in the oven using pieces of wire or old clothing hangers cut up. This negates the posibility of having any marks from contact while curing. I've used paper plates as well, though a little paper will sometimes want to stick. There is no problem with using an electric or any other stove. You have to remember that you are preheating the surface as you are spraying, and then hitting it with warm air again. The solvent is already out of the product after this happens. |
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Posted: 2/14/2005 6:05:55 AM EDT
[#43]
Hey Stickman,
Any thoughts / experience setting the parts on a piece of foil on a warm hotplate while you spray? Just thinking it might keep the parts warm/hot without pre baking or hair dryers... -Dave |
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Posted: 2/14/2005 9:51:49 AM EDT
[#44]
I've thought about everything from a hot plate to a heating pad, but I keep ending up just prewarming with a the hairdryer. I wish it were warmer out up here, it would make refinishing much easier!!
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Posted: 2/14/2005 11:35:40 AM EDT
[#45]
I recently refinished some mags with Norrels, and I put the little bottle that attaches to the sprayer on a hot plate to heat up the Norrels. Seemed to work out pretty good. It dried the instant it hit the mag surface.
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Posted: 2/14/2005 11:52:50 AM EDT
[#46]
I did all of mine by heating them in the oven at 170 for just a coupleorfew minutes. Seems like Stickman addressed this before, but I have not had any problems with it. If it is very warm to touch through the rubber gloves but not uncomfortably so, I let 'er rip. So far the results have been knardacious (new word invented by my 12 year old - knarly/bodacious - his replacment for "DUUUDE get a load of that!!")
Greg
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Posted: 2/14/2005 3:29:36 PM EDT
[#47]
Is the Norrel's flammable?, my stove is gas. Thanks.
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Posted: 2/14/2005 3:46:51 PM EDT
[#48]
The purpose of heating the piece prior to spraying is that upon contact with the warm metal, all solvent in the mixture immediately evaporates. What is left is pigment, lubrication, and the hardening catalyst. So, I suppose the answer would (should??) be no. Some have baked their weapons up to 350 with no problems according to their posts.. If I understand correctly, you get a duller finish that is harder but less flexible than if you cure at 300. I don't think using a gas oven would be any different from an electric. Probably easier as I think you get more consistent temps with gas over electric. At any rate, I've never heard of anyone flaming.
Give it a try - it is a blast that gives results you won't believe. That is IF you follow the recipie. Here is the piece Stickman (aka The Norrell Guru) wrote.www.pre-ban.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19024 Greg
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Posted: 2/18/2005 4:10:17 PM EDT
[#49]
another work in progress.....will post final pics once i get the entire gun done....
decided to pick up a dedicated airbrush and compressor for my moly work. it's just getting to be a pretty busy part-time effort if ya know what i mean...  this lower was an '86 pickup just after the ban when the entire gun (FA M-16) was available from bushmaster for about $1600 as i recall...it's been a great shooter....my pop's gun now, and am doing the moly on it to get it looking new again....am going to do the selector switch in OD Green so it contrasts with the SOCOM black lower so he can see the switch easier with his aging eyes....gotta keep ol pop's in the game.... 
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Posted: 2/18/2005 4:22:40 PM EDT
[#50]
That's sweet Burnsome! Can't wait to see the whole thing.
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