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Page AR-15 » Troubleshooting
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Posted: 2/7/2005 8:36:42 AM EDT
My Bushmaster fails to eject the spent cartrige about once every 300 rounds.  I tried oiling the the ejector according to the manual, but it still fails.  I tried working Shooter's Choice into the ejector to remove brass from the channel, followed by working in oil again.  Still no luck.  I don't have the proper tools for removing the ejector, so I would like to avoid having to do that.  Any ideas?  The rifle in question is a Bushmaster M4 Carbine, with the 14.5" barrel and permanent FS.  Thanks.
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 8:39:45 AM EDT
[#1]
When you said it fails to eject.  

Does this mean that the empty is staying stuck to the bolt still held onto the bolt by the extractor?  

Or is an loose empty jamming up in the reciever while trying to chamber a fresh round?
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 9:17:40 AM EDT
[#2]
The loose empty case is left in the reciever to gum up the works.   A fresh round tries to feed, but is jammed into the empty case at the chamber mouth.  
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 9:23:29 AM EDT
[#3]
You should get a stronger extractor spring.  I recommend a Wolff XP M4 extractor spring.   Carbines are more finiky that full 20" ARs when it comes to extractor spring strength, since carbines cycle quite a bit faster and begin extraction while the pressure within the barrel is higher than on a 20" gun.  Along with that you may want to get a LMT or Colt H buffer if you're using a carbine stock on it now.  A member here on ARFCOM JTAC_Supply is a good dealer and has the LMT H buffers for $17  The heavier buffer delays the opening of the bolt a little to better allow some of the higher pressure to bleed down on a carbine.  These are standard on Colt and LMT carbines.
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 9:24:23 AM EDT
[#4]
Ammo type,

And it may be that the extractor is dropping the case before the carrier/buffer makes full rearward stroke (point where the case should be pivoted off the bolt face).

Try cleaning up the bur's on the extractor claw/end of rim channel cut, and add a #60 O ring around the extractor spring to see if this solves the problem.  Even with a bound ejector, the case should still dribble out of the ejection port when the bolt gets stopped at end of travel.
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 9:54:39 AM EDT
[#5]
The ammo I'm using is quite hot, its Canadian C77 (SS109).
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 10:19:15 AM EDT
[#6]
take the front sight base off and drill out the gas tube slightly, if you already cleaned the port out.  I did this with my custom disapator and it functions awesomely.  Put a cleaning rod in the barrel first so you don't mess up the barrel.
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 10:46:19 AM EDT
[#7]
Have you used a good chamber cleaning brush to scrub out the chamber?

I can't believe I am the first on the suggest this.  
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 10:51:04 AM EDT
[#8]
Yes, I use a GI chamber brush at each cleaning which I do after every shooting session.
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 10:59:53 AM EDT
[#9]
You can also try this ejector spring mod click on AR15/C7 on the left and then on 'ejection'.  Brad Brownes mod works well. I did it on 2 Bushy carbines well before Wolff made XP extractor springs (I did this is 1997) to cure the problem of my ejectors over-powering the extractors and leaving an empty casing inside the upper. It would jam the empty up pretty bad near the top near the gas tube as it tried feeding a new round. This trimming of the ejector springs cured those problems 100% and a nice side benefit is that the carbines would then eject at 2 to 3 o'clock probably because they were hitting the brass deflector softer and bouncing forward. This is nice because at my indoor range (NRA Range in FFX VA) where I shoot my ARs mostly you don't have to pick up your brass, you just sweep it downrange but I believe a stronger extractor spring is better.  
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 11:05:29 AM EDT
[#10]
Based on what I'm hearing, it sounds like I should try the O-ring or the Wolf XP springs.  I don't really feel comfortable removing and trimming the ejector spring, but I'll keep it in mind.
Link Posted: 2/7/2005 1:23:38 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 2/10/2005 11:10:04 AM EDT
[#12]
I'm using the buffer that Bushmaster supplied with the rifle.
Link Posted: 2/10/2005 11:24:19 AM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 2/10/2005 11:58:56 AM EDT
[#14]
No "H" stamped on the face.  Its aluminium if that matters.
Link Posted: 2/10/2005 5:54:14 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
take the front sight base off and drill out the gas tube slightly, if you already cleaned the port out.  I did this with my custom disapator and it functions awesomely.  Put a cleaning rod in the barrel first so you don't mess up the barrel.



Hang on a minute.

Sounds like the extractors releasing the cartridge before ejection. This could be due to many different things. Inadequate lube, new rifle, rough chamber, etc...

Dissassemble your extractor and make sure your rubber insert is in your extractor spring.

If so, replace the insert and extractor spring before you try to modify anything. In fact, before I modified anything I would send the back to Bushmaster for inspection.

What type of lube are you using, is it a new rifle, and do you keep your bolt wet, or dry?

Tweaks wondering if you had a carbine full auto buffer installed by mistake. This is the H designation. The weights in the buffer are heavier.
Link Posted: 2/11/2005 9:38:22 AM EDT
[#16]
I haven't weighed my buffer, but it doesn't have the "H" marking.  The insert is in the extractor spring,  its is blue.  Shouldn't the carbine have the black insert?  I run the carrier and bolt oiled, but not dripping wet.  I found the #60 O ring at Rollison's Hardware in town and I plan to try it out this weekend.  I too found the "drill out the gas port advise rather drastic, if the O ring doesn't solve the problem, then I will contact Bushmaster to see if they need to inspect the bolt/rifle.  

Let me know if you have any reservations about using the O ring.
Link Posted: 2/11/2005 3:58:19 PM EDT
[#17]
Tweak, any difference between the blue and black extractor inserts?

I've got a Bush Patrolmans carbine with a black insert, but last time I ordered some spare parts Bushmaster sent the blue inserts. What's the difference?

Link Posted: 2/11/2005 4:10:20 PM EDT
[#18]
Blue and black inserts are the same 'hardness'.  They're just colored to tell the armorer which extractor spring should be in that particular weapon.  Nowadays Colt M4s have black inserts and stronger extractor springs.  20" M16s have blue ones and a standard extractor springs.

I repeat try a Wolff XP M4 extractor spring.  I'm 99.9% sure it'll cure the malfunctions described.
Link Posted: 2/11/2005 5:51:00 PM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
Blue and black inserts are the same 'hardness'.  They're just colored to tell the armorer which extractor spring should be in that particular weapon.  Nowadays Colt M4s have black extractors and stronger extractor springs.  20" M16s have blue ones and a standard extractor springs.

I repeat try a Wolff XP M4 extractor spring.  I'm 99.9% sure it'll cure the malfunctions described.



Ok. Thanks for the info.

So in that case, how does one tell which is a stronger extractor spring (for carbines) from a weaker (standard) one.

Bushmaster doesn't seem to differentiate between the two in any literature I can find. Although, as I stated my M4gery Patrolmans carbine came with the black insert, but Bushmaster sent blue inserts as replacement parts when I ordered the carbine field repair kit.

I can't tell whether the extra extractor springs in the kit are any different than the one currently on the rifle.
Link Posted: 2/11/2005 7:46:37 PM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Blue and black inserts are the same 'hardness'.  They're just colored to tell the armorer which extractor spring should be in that particular weapon.  Nowadays Colt M4s have black extractors and stronger extractor springs.  20" M16s have blue ones and a standard extractor springs.

I repeat try a Wolff XP M4 extractor spring.  I'm 99.9% sure it'll cure the malfunctions described.



Ok. Thanks for the info.

So in that case, how does one tell which is a stronger extractor spring (for carbines) from a weaker (standard) one.

Bushmaster doesn't seem to differentiate between the two in any literature I can find. Although, as I stated my M4gery Patrolmans carbine came with the black insert, but Bushmaster sent blue inserts as replacement parts when I ordered the carbine field repair kit.

I can't tell whether the extra extractor springs in the kit are any different than the one currently on the rifle.



I think the only company presently using stronger extractor springs OEM is Colt.  That's why I highly recommend the Wolffs springs.
Link Posted: 2/12/2005 1:26:52 PM EDT
[#21]
I tried the #60 O-ring today at the range and so far no malfunctions. :)  I'll be ordering the Wolff springs in the near future though.  Thanks to everyone for all of your help with this problem!  The willingness of board members to share their knowledge and experience is what makes this site so worthwhile!
Link Posted: 2/12/2005 1:35:43 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:
I tried the #60 O-ring today at the range and so far no malfunctions. :)  I'll be ordering the Wolff springs in the near future though.  Thanks to everyone for all of your help with this problem!  The willingness of board members to share their knowledge and experience is what makes this site so worthwhile!



IM me your address and I'll mail you a Wolff XP M4 spring free.  
Link Posted: 2/12/2005 11:41:20 PM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 2/13/2005 2:35:43 PM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:
get an "H" buffer, they're needed with the 14.5" barrel for just this reason. relying on the added strength extractor spring doesn't fix the too high cyclic rate.



Tweak, considering that the gas system is the same length, in your view would the 16" barrel of the patrolmans carbine also benefit from using the H buffer?

And are there any potential problems associated with using this buffer.

Sorta makes me wonder why Bushmaster doesn't equip their M-4 type gas systems with the heavier buffer from the start.

Link Posted: 2/13/2005 3:35:57 PM EDT
[#25]
After thinking about this buffer question for while, I came to the following conclusion. If the heavy buffer is for fully automatic M-16's, and prevents bolt bounce etc... while using full power military loads.

Then it would make sense that civilian manufacturers would use lighter buffers in M-4 type gas systems to ensure reliable bolt cycling with lesser powered .223 loads as well as full power 5.56 loads. Which would speed up unlocking and cycling while using full power loads.

Question is, have any of your guys used heavy buffers with standard .223 loads and have you noticed any reliability issues, as far as FTF's, due to the lighter cartridge not cycling the bolt fully to the rear?
Link Posted: 2/14/2005 7:49:49 AM EDT
[#26]
I spoke to Bushmaster on this subject.

They stated that the use of heavy buffers will work with full power military ammo (5.56mm), using military weight bullets (55 grain and above).

However, if one switches to say a 55 grain or less .223 cartridge, there is the potential that the heavy (M-16 full auto) buffer will not allow the bolt carrier to cycle fully.

Therefore, Bat if you only shoot heavy bullets or military cartridges, there may be some benefit to switching to the heavy buffer. But lighter .223 (50 grain, etc...) cartridges may not produce enough pressure to fully cycle the bolt.

As for the extractor issue, Bushmaster states that current Army requirements call for extractor spring with blue insert. In fact, the blue insert is all Bushmaster currently uses. They only have one strength extractor spring.
Link Posted: 2/14/2005 2:57:26 PM EDT
[#27]

They stated that the use of heavy buffers will work with full power military ammo (5.56mm), using military weight bullets (55 grain and above).


This describes me well: Military ammo or Federal Gold Match only.  So who sells the H Buffer?
Link Posted: 2/14/2005 3:37:35 PM EDT
[#28]

Quoted:

They stated that the use of heavy buffers will work with full power military ammo (5.56mm), using military weight bullets (55 grain and above).


This describes me well: Military ammo or Federal Gold Match only.  So who sells the H Buffer?



See my second reply on the 1st page.
Link Posted: 2/14/2005 3:44:41 PM EDT
[#29]
DOH!
Link Posted: 2/14/2005 3:58:22 PM EDT
[#30]

Quoted:
DOH!



You can also obtain one from Bushmaster (18009987928). $24.95 part #8448730-M

Link Posted: 2/14/2005 11:54:33 PM EDT
[#31]
Link Posted: 3/15/2005 6:09:48 PM EDT
[#32]
Gotm4 hooked me up with an extra-power Wolff extractor spring.  It and the #60 o-ring both solved my ejection (from the ejection port) problem.  I prefer the extra-power spring, but both work.  Thank you gotm4!  So if you have an ejection problem from an M4 with an enhanced (extra-weight) carrier, I suggest the Wolff srping, or if you are on a budget, the #60 o-ring.  



ETA: This could be tagged for the edification of others who might have problems like this.  
Link Posted: 3/15/2005 7:07:32 PM EDT
[#33]

Quoted:
Gotm4 hooked me up with an extra-power Wolff extractor spring.  It and the #60 o-ring both solved my ejection (from the ejection port) problem.  I prefer the extra-power spring, but both work.  Thank you gotm4!  So if you have an ejection problem from an M4 with an enhanced (extra-weight) carrier, I suggest the Wolff srping, or if you are on a budget, the #60 o-ring.  



ETA: This could be tagged for the edification of others who might have problems like this.  



Glad it worked.
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