Here is my problem, first I primarly shoot 55gr poly FMJ wolf out of a J&T non-chrome 20" upper.

Well after ~500 rounds I have had no problems except for a crappy mag that I was using for a day from a friend. Now about 2 weeks ago I had 3 FTEs all in the same 2 hours. I would shoot 1 mag then I would load another mag in shoot, then after the 4th round the spent casing was stuck in the chamber. No big deal I tapped it out, shot another mag loaded in another and the same thing happened after the 1st shot. So I tapped it out and called it a day and went home and gave it a very good cleaning to hopfully stop the problem. After the cleaning I took it out shot 50 rounds and it seemed to be okay.

FF to today I took a friend out we shot about 90 rounds when he loaded in a mag fired the 1st shot, yet again another FTE. Same thing as 2 weeks ago, the round was stuck in the chamber, when pulling back on the round the extractor lets go of the casing. Leaving a bent case rim when I am finnaly able to remove it.

So what should I do? I can take it to the local gunsmith have him look it over but to me it seems like my chamber is a little on the tight size. Now I rember here somone saying that if you take one of those wire brushes,I can't remeber the exact name, the kind you clean the gunk out of you sink with. With that brush twist for a 1m or so to expand it a little. However I am afraid I would injure my AR by doing this.

Thanks.

Buy decent ammo, Clean it with a good solvent and a strong chamber brush to get all the crap off the walls of your chamber that wolf likes to leave on there...even the poly.  

Then NEVER shoot crap ammo like that again.  

Or you can just do what you have always done and get what you have gotten as a result.  

Wrong Forum

troubleshooting

Quoted: Buy decent ammo, Clean it with a good solvent and a strong chamber brush to get all the crap off the walls of your chamber that wolf likes to leave on there...even the poly.   Then NEVER shoot crap ammo like that again.   Or you can just do what you have always done and get what you have gotten as a result.

Well after 500 rounds this is my first real problem, i don't want to buy expensive ammo to shoot at old tires, and rims and stuff its a waste. Also the chamber was clean when I went out last, no residue at all cleaned with hopps semi auto, then with breakfree CLP. I like wolf because its cheap and shots great for what I use it for.

BTW I put in a request for this to be moved, to me it seemed like a maintenance issue.

For troubleshooting purposes try different ammo.

Shok

Yep, I tried some winchester 55gr FMJ from Gander Mountain but only 20 rounds and it seemed fine. I should probably get 120 rounds to make sure though. The rounds that do fine and eject fine have no signs of to much pull on the rim, one just gets stuck in there tight and then it has a bent rim on it from me trying to extract it.

Wolf shouldn't be sticking in your chamber like that.  .223 rem, Wylde, or 5.56mm chambers should all be able to fire it fine.  I'd try some different ammo even if it cost a bit.  If that all runs fine then it could be that the chamber is a little snug.  Steel cases don't spring back like brass does so the steel may be gripping the chamber pretty tight.  I'd have it checked before I went and started sanding on it with wire brushes.

Here is the simplest check for the chamber having a diameter too small somewhere (but not a barrel shape or other out of shape defects): Clean the chamber throughly, then take a bunch of your ammo and the upper and just drop them into the chamber. They should go home with a click and fall right out when the muzzle is elevated. If you find any that need to be pushed into the chamber, or that don't drop right out, either something is still dirty or something is too small.  Set aside all rounds that give trouble. If all of them are sticky, well, the problem is bad. Clean the chamber again, and recheck those rounds that stuck. If they still do not click in and slide right out, you probably need to send it to the maker and demand that they deliver what you already paid money for. The gentle application of a Wylde reamer is likely to fix this defect...

If the chamber is out of shape, it should be apparent looking at and measuring the fired empties. Look for diameter varying as you go aorund the case, and for anything but a smooth taper as you go from a quarter inch of so from the back end of the case towards the shoulder. If it looks crooked, it probably is. Get the maker to replace the barrel. Oh, and don't count the first 1/4" - it is well supported and does not expand out to the chamber wall.

Good Luck, Billski

I fought a similiar problem with a chrome moly barrel and did all the fixes recommended; the extraction problem was much better but not 100% with Wolf ammo (I like the cheap stuff too, a lot of it fired quickly!).  I finally gave up and rebarreled with a chrome lined barrel and the problem disappeared.  My accuracy suffered some but I am more of a blaster than a accuracy hound.  A new chrome lined barrel costs around $200 from Bushmaster (and they will install it for no extra charge) but is, in my opinion, well worth the money.  I have also an old Colt that has always shot just about anything you could stuff into it, includins "dubious" reloads.  It too has a chrome lined barrel and is much more accurate than my carbine.  I know a lot of guys here are going to take exception but I  think that if reliability is an absolute, uncompromising requirement then a chrome lined barrel (chamber, at least) is a necessity.  The military went to chrome lined barrels in the 60's to help counter extraction problems in Vietnam.