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Posted: 11/6/2005 7:38:49 PM EDT
[#1]
take it to a reputable welding shop, they can TIG weld on a blob and you can shape it and drill it from there. You can also contact the manufacturer in some cases they may be willing to repair the lower.
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Posted: 11/6/2005 7:50:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Don't lose sight of how cheap stripped lower receivers are.
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Posted: 11/7/2005 3:04:02 PM EDT
[#3]
I contacted DPMS regarding the matter and they told me they cannot fix it! Bummer! They gave me some alternatives which basically narrowed down to "just use it" 
I have a buddy who TIG's! I'll give him a shout and see what he can do. Any opinion's on the JBweld idea?
Got a new one on the way  I was just wondering if it could be repaired! Worst comes to worst I'll have a build without a triggerguard for a while (or MABYE order another lower considering I will have an extra parts kit on hand !) |
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Posted: 11/8/2005 12:14:57 AM EDT
[#4]
might last for a little while |
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Posted: 11/8/2005 3:34:39 PM EDT
[#5]
Save it for those Alaskan camping trips, you will want the triggerguard removed for easy use with gloves on anyway.
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Posted: 11/9/2005 12:28:05 AM EDT
[#6]
that's what the winter trigger is for.
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Posted: 11/9/2005 11:37:20 AM EDT
[#7]
It will only be a range gun so I guess I will try that (if the guy that I know can't weld it!)
Same thing DPMS told me. I would prefer it to look the way it was intended to work!
That's why I am in this position!!!!! Thanx for the help! If anyone wants to add anything it would be appreciated (tho' it looks like Tweak came up with all the sensible ideas ) |
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Posted: 11/9/2005 1:21:42 PM EDT
[#8]
DPMS told you to remove (completely) the trigger guard for use with gloves? |
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Posted: 11/9/2005 1:30:26 PM EDT
[#9]
The sales rep. that e-mailed me back said that he had spoke to the build team which said without the triggerguard it would simulate shooting with gloves on. They didn't say to remove it BUT they never said that it would be a big deal to shoot without it (which in my eyes is VERY unsafe considering it is a triggerGUARD). |
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Posted: 11/9/2005 1:37:33 PM EDT
[#10]
MIAD with the winter trigger guard maybe
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Posted: 11/11/2005 3:08:44 PM EDT
[#11]
Spoke to the friend and he's gonna do the TIG job for me! Any recommendations on what I can use to touch up the anodizing when it is finished?
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Posted: 11/13/2005 6:58:18 PM EDT
[#12]
Since he's gonna weld it for you.... I'd go ahead and have him weld the magpull trigger guard on permantly....
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Posted: 11/14/2005 11:18:27 AM EDT
[#13]
They make a winter trigger? While in Alaska for a short time with the corps we simply took the trigger guard off-and it didnt really help that much-Does the winter trigger extend below the normal level of the trigger guard where there is more room between the pistol grip and mag well? Cant see ever needing one in Florida.....but just curious about that, it gave me hell, just wondering if some genius finally thought of a remedy for the glove issue other than dropping the guard. Prefered a shotgun there anyway-couldnt see anything closer than 25 yds during snow most of the time. By the time we had contact (during exercises) it was pretty near point blank.....Our scatter guns had no guard at all- dangerous , but practical.
Jb weld may work, but Ive found that though it holds good under typical conditions, under shock or vibration it comes loose. Im not sure how much recoil shock the trigger guard endures though. Its worth a try for a temp fix. |
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Posted: 11/14/2005 1:36:44 PM EDT
[#14]
Forget about trying to do a light touch up. Anodized aluminum doesn't flow until around 3,700* and the raw anodizing underneath will flow around 1,200*. This means that he will need to strip the anodizing around the crack to do a GTAW weld (don't let him do a GMAW weld since it will leave voids in the fill and show when you flush out the weld), which leads to too much of a area to try and touch up with Casey Aluminum Black. Plus even with the gas shield, you’re going to have a good inch of discoloration around both sides of the weld in the anodizing. Best bet is to leave what anodizing he doesn't need to disturb (even discolored), lightly bead blast the area after flushing that he does need to remove the anodizing, then do a spray type finish (spray both the lower and the upper to have a color match, and if your thinking of a color change, now is the time to do it). P.S. It not too late to just shop for a new DPMS lower. Check around and I’m sure that you can find one for less than a C-note. |
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Posted: 11/14/2005 2:29:22 PM EDT
[#15]
that's why the trigger guard pivots out of the way, why it's held on with only one roll pin. |
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Posted: 11/14/2005 5:18:47 PM EDT
[#16]
Tweak,
So is it actually a different Trigger, or just removing the lower portion of the trigger guard? Even dropping the lower portion of the trigger guard I remember it being a PITA to acess the trigger with any speed and gloves with liners... So basically your saying the condition of having the lower portion of the trigger guard removed is called "winter trigger?" Its been 20 yrs since I was in the corps....lingo changes..hinking.gif |
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Posted: 11/14/2005 5:29:18 PM EDT
[#17]
The Magpul is on my new lower! Guess I could have him weld on the stock guard considering this may just end up being a backup
Got a Stag to replace the DPMS. Not sure if I wanna dump anymore money into DPMS parts. |
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Posted: 11/15/2005 11:38:26 AM EDT
[#18]
Adco has the winter trigger guards....
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Posted: 11/15/2005 4:36:21 PM EDT
[#19]
Could you get to the trigger at all without doing so? |
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Posted: 11/15/2005 6:51:23 PM EDT
[#20]
Tweak,
As I said its been many years ago, but I remember it being a pain to get to even with the guard dropped. The only time I ever fired the M16/AR 15 in anger was in the Philippines, and cold weather gear was the furthest thing from my mind there. If the guard was up, no I doubt I could access the trigger at all without great effort with the older gloves. As for the newer issue, I couldnt say. Thanks |
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Posted: 11/16/2005 6:20:17 AM EDT
[#21]
the detent can be pressed in with a round of 5.56
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Posted: 11/16/2005 8:21:07 AM EDT
[#22]
I hate to kick you when you're down... But this is what happens when you get to messing around with silly, unnecessary gadget modifications...
just my $.02  The trigger guard area is a tricky spot that you should take extra precaution when drifting in and out that role pin. |
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Posted: 11/16/2005 1:24:46 PM EDT
[#23]
Not to mention the fact that I was in a rush! I didn't use support for the side that snapped off either (which is another BONEHEAD move)! I know it's not a necessary modification but I think it looks bad ass. Anyway, it's all taken care of now and I will let everyone now how the TIG welding goes.BTW: markm, you sound like my old lady! She doesn't even know much about the AR and she said that same thing when it happened! 
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Posted: 11/16/2005 1:30:13 PM EDT
[#24]
+1 This is going to be an expensive fix for a solution that wasn't necessary.
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Posted: 11/16/2005 5:21:08 PM EDT
[#25]
??? I have already come to this conclusion ($155 screw-up to be exact  ). That is if you are referring to me! But it had nothing to do with the detent (as in your reply to Tweak).
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Posted: 11/16/2005 6:11:59 PM EDT
[#26]
I'm agreeing with Tweak that if you want winter access, you use a cartidge and release the standard triggerguard.
I don't see the need for the Magpul triggerguard, and in this case, it's going to end up costing you even more money repairing or replacing the lower, all for something that IMO wasn't needed in the 1st place. |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 4:36:21 PM EDT
[#27]
Understood! I feel that some mods are a waste of time myself BUT if you read the title of the topic I am not asking how anyone feels about the Magpul guard. I am not trying to be rude but c'mon. I realize that it DID cost me more money but that is besides the point. I asked if the lower could be fixed NOT how everyone felt about the Magpul triggerguard!
It was more of a cosmetic move for me and had nothing to do with winter access! I am also aware that this would be the proper way for winter use! Thanx to those who helped with my question! There is no more information needed about this! Thanx again guys! |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 5:34:04 PM EDT
[#28]
I don't mean to offend, and yes my comment was off-topic.
I just feel bad that you end up costing yourself so much for something that really wasn't necessary..... 
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Posted: 11/17/2005 6:22:28 PM EDT
[#29]
Don't feel bad. I don't. If I would have followed directions in the first place it never would have happened. I did get a new lower out of the whole deal tho' (which means I have an extra). I probably would have been better off leaving it alone but oh well.....what's done is done (did I mention I have an extra lower ). Besides, the guy that is gonna fix it for me owes me a favor anyway. No money out of my pocket on that deal. I can tell you that I won't be installing one on my next rifle! Lesson learned. |
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Posted: 11/18/2005 12:49:25 AM EDT
[#30]
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Posted: 11/18/2005 4:33:13 AM EDT
[#31]
I won;t comment on the break, but I will say that I hope you post pics of the completed repair and how it turns out for you :)
You might want to consider a finish like Alumahyde II or Duracoat, etc. to mask the weld area. I wouldn't worry too much if the shade of the lower is off from the shade of the upper on your future build, the US ARMY doesn;t carte about that so why should you?
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Posted: 11/18/2005 12:25:34 PM EDT
[#32]
I will be dropping it off tonight and as soon as it is done I will post the pics! |
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Posted: 11/23/2005 9:55:10 AM EDT
[#33]
Any new info?
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Posted: 11/24/2005 8:06:52 PM EDT
[#34]
Not yet! He is still working on it (probably hasn't gotten around to doing it yet). I will keep you posted!
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Posted: 11/24/2005 8:34:16 PM EDT
[#35]
tag
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Posted: 11/29/2005 5:05:42 PM EDT
[#36]
I would try and sell it for $30-40 on the EE and buy a new lower...
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Posted: 11/29/2005 5:18:32 PM EDT
[#37]
From the first post in this thread!!!!!
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